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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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How to improve effectiveness of fireplace - fit a woodburning stove?
One of my relatives uses an open fireplace for heating during the winter,
using a mixture of coal and wood. The wood is effectively free. The fireplace doesn't seem to produce a lot of heat, and I've read that a woodburning stove might be much more effective, by virtue of drawing less cold air into the house and sending less heat up the chimney. I have some questions: The regularly-swept chimney copes fine with the mixture of wood and coal burnt in the fireplace, so is it likely be be OK with a wood stove, if suitably connected? The house is about 20 years old. The house is in a rural area, but there are a few houses nearby. Is the exhaust from a woodstove likely to cause more nuisance to them than that from the fireplace? An ideas where I can get a cheap stove? I'm hopefully monitoring my local Freecycle group, but I guess recent energy price rises have made wood stoves very sought-after. Any other things worth trying? |
#2
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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How to improve effectiveness of fireplace - fit a woodburningstove?
Simon wrote:
One of my relatives uses an open fireplace for heating during the winter, using a mixture of coal and wood. The wood is effectively free. The fireplace doesn't seem to produce a lot of heat, and I've read that a woodburning stove might be much more effective, by virtue of drawing less cold air into the house and sending less heat up the chimney. I have some questions: The regularly-swept chimney copes fine with the mixture of wood and coal burnt in the fireplace, so is it likely be be OK with a wood stove, if suitably connected? The house is about 20 years old. The house is in a rural area, but there are a few houses nearby. Is the exhaust from a woodstove likely to cause more nuisance to them than that from the fireplace? An ideas where I can get a cheap stove? I'm hopefully monitoring my local Freecycle group, but I guess recent energy price rises have made wood stoves very sought-after. Any other things worth trying? Stoves are more efficient really due to the longer path the flue gases take through the structure, and the more surface area of the structu our open fires take hours to really heat a room, because there is a mass of about 15 tonnes of masonry and the like that needs to get warm first..but they heat the room for about 12 hours after the fire goes out!! Stoves, drawing less air into the flue, (can) run the flues a lot hotter. Regulations insist that even a decent existing open fire flue be lined..and this will cost you the bets part of a grand I am afraid. Consult your BCO for details.. |
#3
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How to improve effectiveness of fireplace - fit a woodburning stove?
The Natural Philosopher coughed up some electrons that declared:
Simon wrote: One of my relatives uses an open fireplace for heating during the winter, using a mixture of coal and wood. The wood is effectively free. The fireplace doesn't seem to produce a lot of heat, and I've read that a woodburning stove might be much more effective, by virtue of drawing less cold air into the house and sending less heat up the chimney. I have some questions: The regularly-swept chimney copes fine with the mixture of wood and coal burnt in the fireplace, so is it likely be be OK with a wood stove, if suitably connected? The house is about 20 years old. The house is in a rural area, but there are a few houses nearby. Is the exhaust from a woodstove likely to cause more nuisance to them than that from the fireplace? An ideas where I can get a cheap stove? I'm hopefully monitoring my local Freecycle group, but I guess recent energy price rises have made wood stoves very sought-after. Any other things worth trying? Stoves are more efficient really due to the longer path the flue gases take through the structure, and the more surface area of the structu our open fires take hours to really heat a room, because there is a mass of about 15 tonnes of masonry and the like that needs to get warm first..but they heat the room for about 12 hours after the fire goes out!! Stoves, drawing less air into the flue, (can) run the flues a lot hotter. Regulations insist that even a decent existing open fire flue be lined..and this will cost you the bets part of a grand I am afraid. Consult your BCO for details.. I can offer some input on this, having discussed the very same issue with the local stove shop down the end of the village. His opinion was that, yes, the flue must be lined as you say for the same reasons. However, he was of the opinion that the lining may not need any packing (eg vermiculite) around it if the chimney is good and relatively free from tar. On this premise, I was told that DIY fitting his stainless steel liner would be straightforward and would cost in the low 100's for 7m of liner and top + bottom end parts. In short, he said I could get a reasonable quality medium sized stove and liner+parts for a grand from him and he was fairly confident the BCO (who he knew in passing) would probably be OK with it, although of course I should check first, he added, quite reasonably. Proof's in the eating of course... Cheers Tim |
#4
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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How to improve effectiveness of fireplace - fit a woodburning stove?
another stove tip
is to have an air intake pipe coming up through the floor or wall so the fire takes its air from there not sucking cold air through the cracks under the doors and in the windows... i am still investigating this... -- [george] |
#5
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How to improve effectiveness of fireplace - fit a woodburningstove?
my house was built early 60'sOn Sep 17, 9:24*pm, "George \(dicegeorge
\)" wrote: another stove tip is to have an air intake pipe coming up through the floor or wall so the fire takes its air from there not sucking cold air through the cracks under the doors and in the windows... i am still investigating this... -- * * * * * * * * * *[george] my house was built early 60's and Bonk n Co reckons it will have a lined chimney, all that they say I need is a collar bit, (not their term) to mate the pipe from the stove to the chimney. |
#6
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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How to improve effectiveness of fireplace - fit a woodburning stove?
Tim S wrote:
I can offer some input on this, having discussed the very same issue with the local stove shop down the end of the village. His opinion was that, yes, the flue must be lined as you say for the same reasons. However, he was of the opinion that the lining may not need any packing (eg vermiculite) around it if the chimney is good and relatively free from tar. On this premise, I was told that DIY fitting his stainless steel liner would be straightforward and would cost in the low 100's for 7m of liner and top + bottom end parts. In short, he said I could get a reasonable quality medium sized stove and liner+parts for a grand from him and he was fairly confident the BCO (who he knew in passing) would probably be OK with it, although of course I should check first, he added, quite reasonably. Do you not have to be registered with CORGI or similar to install a wood burning stove? I know its not gas, but adequate ventilation & CO2 escape must be considerations? -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#7
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How to improve effectiveness of fireplace - fit a woodburning stove?
The Medway Handyman coughed up some electrons that declared:
Tim S wrote: I can offer some input on this, having discussed the very same issue with the local stove shop down the end of the village. His opinion was that, yes, the flue must be lined as you say for the same reasons. However, he was of the opinion that the lining may not need any packing (eg vermiculite) around it if the chimney is good and relatively free from tar. On this premise, I was told that DIY fitting his stainless steel liner would be straightforward and would cost in the low 100's for 7m of liner and top + bottom end parts. In short, he said I could get a reasonable quality medium sized stove and liner+parts for a grand from him and he was fairly confident the BCO (who he knew in passing) would probably be OK with it, although of course I should check first, he added, quite reasonably. Do you not have to be registered with CORGI or similar to install a wood burning stove? I know its not gas, but adequate ventilation & CO2 escape must be considerations? I don't know in the general case of doing for hire or reward. But, for your own home, you can certainly do gas plus this will be under a BNA regarding the flue anyway (same BNA as the 6 million other jobs on the house!). So, I think the answer is certainly no in my case; in your case, if you were doing as a job for someone else, then I'm uncertain. Most of the stove guys are registered with their professional body, HETAS, so perhaps this body covers the ventilation requirements associated with a stove fit? Cheers Tim |
#8
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How to improve effectiveness of fireplace - fit a woodburningstove?
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Tim S wrote: I can offer some input on this, having discussed the very same issue with the local stove shop down the end of the village. His opinion was that, yes, the flue must be lined as you say for the same reasons. However, he was of the opinion that the lining may not need any packing (eg vermiculite) around it if the chimney is good and relatively free from tar. On this premise, I was told that DIY fitting his stainless steel liner would be straightforward and would cost in the low 100's for 7m of liner and top + bottom end parts. In short, he said I could get a reasonable quality medium sized stove and liner+parts for a grand from him and he was fairly confident the BCO (who he knew in passing) would probably be OK with it, although of course I should check first, he added, quite reasonably. Do you not have to be registered with CORGI or similar to install a wood burning stove? I know its not gas, but adequate ventilation & CO2 escape must be considerations? No,but you must pass building regs. The hazards are les explosive and being gassed, and more fire related. The kernel of the regulatins are there to ensure that the stove has adequate ventilation, that the flue goes out of the living space sensibly without leaks, and that the hottest parts of the stove and flue are well insulated from suitably fire resistant adjacent materials. What this boils down to is that flues must be very well sealed, and prefarably double walled insulated to both keep flue temperatures up high enough to keep tars out of the flue, and protect any flammable stuff near the flue from catching fire. If the chimney is already decent and old enough, you may be allowed to drop a flexible flue down. Otherwise its double insulated stainless flue. Expensive. The hearth area should be already good enough, but you need a gap between the stove doors and anything flammable covered with fireproof tiles etc, and any wood or plasterwork close to or behind the stove needs a masterboard type covering on it - essentially asbestos board without asbestos. Current wood prices are well below oil/gas prices though, so it is cost effective. |
#9
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How to improve effectiveness of fireplace - fit a woodburning stove?
On Thu, 18 Sep 2008 10:31:42 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote: any wood or plasterwork close to or behind the stove needs a masterboard type covering on it - essentially asbestos board without asbestos. Wood I can understand, but why does plaster need covering? Its not flammable Anna -- Anna Kettle Lime plaster repair and conservation Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc Tel: ***(+44) *01359 230642 Mob: *(+44) *07976 649862 Please look at my website for examples of my work at: www.kettlenet.co.uk * |
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