Hi all,
Taken delivery of a Screwfix deal of drill & impact driver.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/79355?ts=85377

No probs with the gear, they do exactly what I want them to do apart
from the screwdriver bits, they strip of ever so quickly!
Can anybody recommend a good quality decent make of bits that will stand
up to normal use, or are they all made in China from ****ty mild steel
--
Corporal Jones
"I don't like it up me"

On Mon, 18 Aug 2008 20:00:23 +0100, Corporal Jones
wrote:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/79355?ts=85377

No probs with the gear, they do exactly what I want them to do apart
from the screwdriver bits, they strip of ever so quickly!

Same page. Wera, Wiha or Snap-on.

Corporal Jones wrote:
Hi all,
Taken delivery of a Screwfix deal of drill & impact driver.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/79355?ts=85377

No probs with the gear, they do exactly what I want them to do apart
from the screwdriver bits, they strip of ever so quickly!
Can anybody recommend a good quality decent make of bits that will
stand up to normal use, or are they all made in China from ****ty
mild steel

Is it the drill driver or the impact driver that shags the bits - or both?

Two schools of thought here, buy expensive bits like Wera, Weha. IME these
tend to shatter rather than strip. I gave up on them after a while. Option
2, buy relatively cheap bits & bin them as soon as they start to strip.
Thats what I do.

Before I got my autofeed I reckon that putting 1500+ screws into a deck with
an impact driver would shag 3 or 4 cheap bits.

Screwfix had some DeWalt ones on special a while ago, so did Wickes. Wickes
'gold' ones aren't too bad for the price.

Just a point, don't use a PH bit on a PZ screw or vice versa - shags the
bits in no time.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Corporal Jones wrote:
Hi all,
Taken delivery of a Screwfix deal of drill & impact driver.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/79355?ts=85377

No probs with the gear, they do exactly what I want them to do apart
from the screwdriver bits, they strip of ever so quickly!
Can anybody recommend a good quality decent make of bits that will
stand up to normal use, or are they all made in China from ****ty
mild steel

Is it the drill driver or the impact driver that shags the bits - or both?

Only used the Impact so far, great for coach screws in sleepers

Two schools of thought here, buy expensive bits like Wera, Weha. IME these
tend to shatter rather than strip. I gave up on them after a while. Option
2, buy relatively cheap bits & bin them as soon as they start to strip.
Thats what I do.

Before I got my autofeed I reckon that putting 1500+ screws into a deck with
an impact driver would shag 3 or 4 cheap bits.

Screwfix had some DeWalt ones on special a while ago, so did Wickes. Wickes
'gold' ones aren't too bad for the price.

Will take a stroll down to Wickes and try theirs

Just a point, don't use a PH bit on a PZ screw or vice versa - shags the
bits in no time.

Yes, that was one problem, the other I found out is to use the correct
size of bit for the screw, that's what I get for trying to rush a job in
the pouring rain.



--
Corporal Jones
"I don't like it up me"

"Corporal Jones" wrote in message
news

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Corporal Jones wrote:


Just a point, don't use a PH bit on a PZ screw or vice versa - shags the
bits in no time.

Yes, that was one problem, the other I found out is to use the correct
size of bit for the screw, that's what I get for trying to rush a job in
the pouring rain.


Ok I'll admit to not knowing the difference between a Pozi and a philips as
they just look the same to me and all seem to go in regardless of what bit I
use. What is the best way to differentiate?

Steven.

In article ,
Steven Campbell wrote:
Ok I'll admit to not knowing the difference between a Pozi and a philips
as they just look the same to me and all seem to go in regardless of
what bit I use. What is the best way to differentiate?

They're normally marked PZ or PH. If you try a new one of each into a new
screw by hand you'll feel the correct one fits better.

--
*I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Steven Campbell wrote:
"Corporal Jones" wrote in message
news
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Corporal Jones wrote:

Just a point, don't use a PH bit on a PZ screw or vice versa - shags the
bits in no time.
Yes, that was one problem, the other I found out is to use the correct
size of bit for the screw, that's what I get for trying to rush a job in
the pouring rain.


Ok I'll admit to not knowing the difference between a Pozi and a philips as
they just look the same to me and all seem to go in regardless of what bit I
use. What is the best way to differentiate?

Steven.



IME it is always stamped into the side of them - exact characters vary -
PZ2 or PH2 - or similar.

To avoid mistakes, esp. in the dark, rain, dirt, etc., I wish they were
colour coded - had thought of marking them with a bit of paint - but
never did decide which colours/what paint. :-)

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

In article ,
Rod wrote:
To avoid mistakes, esp. in the dark, rain, dirt, etc., I wish they were
colour coded - had thought of marking them with a bit of paint - but
never did decide which colours/what paint. :-)

You could buy plain steel for one and 'titanium' for the other.

--
*OK, who stopped payment on my reality check?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Steven Campbell wrote:
Ok I'll admit to not knowing the difference between a Pozi and a philips
as they just look the same to me and all seem to go in regardless of
what bit I use. What is the best way to differentiate?

They're normally marked PZ or PH. If you try a new one of each into a new
screw by hand you'll feel the correct one fits better.

And for the screw, pozi have star shaped lines on the head of the screw,
amazing what you can learn when you have to

--
Corporal Jones
"I don't like it up me"

In article ,
Steven Campbell wrote:

Ok I'll admit to not knowing the difference between a Pozi and a philips as
they just look the same to me and all seem to go in regardless of what bit I
use. What is the best way to differentiate?


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozidrive

Explains the key differences. Look for the lines on the top of the screw - if it
hasn't got them then it's not pozi

Darren

On Tue, 19 Aug 2008 13:33:21 +0100, Corporal Jones wrote:

They're normally marked PZ or PH. If you try a new one of each into a
new screw by hand you'll feel the correct one fits better.

And for the screw, pozi have star shaped lines on the head of the screw,
amazing what you can learn when you have to

Yep but can no one tell what type of screw the bit (or screwdriver) is for
when it hasn't got PH or PZ markings? Tis very simple and a damn sight
quicker than looking for the marking.

--
Cheers
Dave.

"dmc" wrote in message ...
In article ,
Steven Campbell wrote:

Ok I'll admit to not knowing the difference between a Pozi and a philips
as
they just look the same to me and all seem to go in regardless of what bit
I
use. What is the best way to differentiate?


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozidrive

Explains the key differences. Look for the lines on the top of the screw -
if it
hasn't got them then it's not pozi

Thanks for the replies.

Steven.

On Tue, 19 Aug 2008 23:47:10 +0100, wrote:

Yep but can no one tell what type of screw the bit (or screwdriver) is
for when it hasn't got PH or PZ markings?

The part and markings at 45deg to the X are a good clue.

On the screw head yes but not on the driver.

The best one is to line the bit and screw up and see if they stay in
line. This will confirm size and type more accurately.

True enough but you've looked at your screw and it has the X on the cross.
You have two screw drivers without PZ/PH markings. How do you know which
is the pozi one *without* checking the fit?

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 19 Aug 2008 23:47:10 +0100, wrote:

Yep but can no one tell what type of screw the bit (or screwdriver)
is for when it hasn't got PH or PZ markings?

The part and markings at 45deg to the X are a good clue.

On the screw head yes but not on the driver.

The best one is to line the bit and screw up and see if they stay in
line. This will confirm size and type more accurately.

True enough but you've looked at your screw and it has the X on the
cross. You have two screw drivers without PZ/PH markings. How do you
know which is the pozi one *without* checking the fit?

For ordinary screwdrivers buy the Wickes ones - the Pozi have blue handles,
the Phillips have red.

For bits you can usually see the X on the tip.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 19 Aug, 23:47, wrote:
size and type more accurately. It is just as bad to use the wrong size as to
use the wrong type. It is amazing how many of joe pub don't know the
difference.


But how do you know the right "size" - my general rule of thumb is to
stick a PZ2 in (providing its a PZ screw), but I don't know how to
tell whether to use a PZ1 or a PZ3.

Matt

wrote:
On 19 Aug, 23:47, wrote:
size and type more accurately. It is just as bad to use the wrong size as to
use the wrong type. It is amazing how many of joe pub don't know the
difference.


But how do you know the right "size" - my general rule of thumb is to
stick a PZ2 in (providing its a PZ screw), but I don't know how to
tell whether to use a PZ1 or a PZ3.

Matt

To me, the PZ1 has distinctly and obviously smaller "fins" on the screw
itself. Very obvious. Similarly (but the other way) for PZ3 which are
much chunkier.

One point, PZ tends to be found on wooden items, PH on metal or an
electrical item. PH if the screw is very small. Self-tappers seem most
often to be PH. Difficult to generalise - they always seem to manage to
confound any rule of thumb I thought I had worked out.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.net...


True enough but you've looked at your screw and it has the X on the cross.
You have two screw drivers without PZ/PH markings. How do you know which
is the pozi one *without* checking the fit?

You look at the sides.. the pozi has parallel faces and the philips has
tapered faces.
Its the parallel faces that makes pozi less likely to pop out.
The extra corner nicks in the screw head are to clear the bits left by the
grinder on the screwdriver blade, although with modern manufacturing methods
you don't always get those leftovers on the blades these days.

On Thu, 21 Aug 2008 07:23:21 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

For ordinary screwdrivers buy the Wickes ones - the Pozi have blue
handles, the Phillips have red.

Nope and only works with that brand of tool. My red handled screw drivers
are flat bladed...

For bits you can usually see the X on the tip.

I think you mean screw heads rather than bits?

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Thu, 21 Aug 2008 00:37:52 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

But how do you know the right "size" - my general rule of thumb is to
stick a PZ2 in (providing its a PZ screw),

Most "normal range" PZ screws are PZ2. Big ones say from No.10 (No.12?)
and up are PZ3. PZ1 from No.4 down?

The fit of the bit into a PZ head is fairly positive provided the driver
and head are not baddly worn. The point of the driver should fit flush
with the head not disappear into it (PZ1 or 2 into PZ3) or sit proud (PZ3
into PZ2 or 2 into 1).

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Thu, 21 Aug 2008 09:37:58 +0100, dennis@home wrote:

You have two screw drivers without PZ/PH markings. How do you know
which is the pozi one *without* checking the fit?

You look at the sides.. the pozi has parallel faces and the philips has
tapered faces.

That is not quite as clear as...

The extra corner nicks in the screw head are to clear the bits left by
the grinder on the screwdriver blade, although with modern manufacturing
methods you don't always get those leftovers on the blades these days.

I've yet to see a PZ bit that didn't have the corner sections in. I was
under the impression that they were part of the design rather and a
manufacturing restriction.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Thu, 21 Aug 2008 10:13:02 +0100, wrote:

The one with the marks at 45deg to the main X. Compare them, it's then
obvious.

I'm talking bits/driver not heads... Though I guess you can peer onto the
end of the bit/driver to see the fillet in the corner of the driver but
that isn't necessary.

--
Cheers
Dave.

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.net...


I've yet to see a PZ bit that didn't have the corner sections in. I was
under the impression that they were part of the design rather and a
manufacturing restriction.

They are caused by having to have the grinding wheel at 90 degrees to the
shaft.
Its damn difficult to not have them using grinding wheels to shape the
blade.
I believe I saw some that appeared to be forged to shape and they didn't
have the leftovers.

Interesting article;
http://www.engineerguy.com/comm/3819.htm


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk