i dont know a lot about rads, and cant make sense of how the valves
stop the water circulating the rad. how does the flow of water get to
the 'out' pipe? the vale seems to be outside the rad so i cant see how
it stops it.

anyway main question is, is it easy to remove a rad off the wall so
that i can get behind it, as it will need replastering? do i need to
stop the water supply completely and drain the system or anything?

i have a main water stop tap and this supplies a combi condensing
boiler which heats the water and central heating.

"benpost" wrote in message
...
i dont know a lot about rads, and cant make sense of how the valves
stop the water circulating the rad. how does the flow of water get to
the 'out' pipe? the vale seems to be outside the rad so i cant see how
it stops it.

anyway main question is, is it easy to remove a rad off the wall so
that i can get behind it, as it will need replastering? do i need to
stop the water supply completely and drain the system or anything?

i have a main water stop tap and this supplies a combi condensing
boiler which heats the water and central heating.

Turn off valves at each end. Count how many turns it takes to turn off the
LSV so you can put it back to it's original position when re-fitting
(otherwise the balancing of the system will be out). Undo the nut holding
one of the valve onto the rad and have a bucket / container ready to catch
all the water. Once it's started flowing open the rad bleed valve (on the
top of the rad) to allow the rad to drain faster. Once empty, remove from
all brackets - best to carry upside down to stop all the black dirty water
dropping on your carpets!!!!

On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 16:01:20 +0100, "Slider" wrote:


"benpost" wrote in message
...
i dont know a lot about rads, and cant make sense of how the valves
stop the water circulating the rad. how does the flow of water get to
the 'out' pipe? the vale seems to be outside the rad so i cant see how
it stops it.

anyway main question is, is it easy to remove a rad off the wall so
that i can get behind it, as it will need replastering? do i need to
stop the water supply completely and drain the system or anything?

i have a main water stop tap and this supplies a combi condensing
boiler which heats the water and central heating.

Turn off valves at each end. Count how many turns it takes to turn off the
LSV so you can put it back to it's original position when re-fitting
(otherwise the balancing of the system will be out). Undo the nut holding
one of the valve onto the rad and have a bucket / container ready to catch
all the water. Once it's started flowing open the rad bleed valve (on the
top of the rad) to allow the rad to drain faster. Once empty, remove from
all brackets - best to carry upside down to stop all the black dirty water
dropping on your carpets!!!!


But you forgot to mention that the TRV might have a "frost" setting so
although it seems to be shut it might not be ...I know its summer but
still . Thats where a decorators cap comes in useful .These links
might help the OP
http://www.diynot.com/pages/pl/pl031.php
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en...27s+Work&meta=

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 16:01:20 +0100, "Slider" wrote:


"benpost" wrote in message
...
i dont know a lot about rads, and cant make sense of how the valves
stop the water circulating the rad. how does the flow of water get to
the 'out' pipe? the vale seems to be outside the rad so i cant see how
it stops it.

anyway main question is, is it easy to remove a rad off the wall so
that i can get behind it, as it will need replastering? do i need to
stop the water supply completely and drain the system or anything?

i have a main water stop tap and this supplies a combi condensing
boiler which heats the water and central heating.

Turn off valves at each end. Count how many turns it takes to turn off
the
LSV so you can put it back to it's original position when re-fitting
(otherwise the balancing of the system will be out). Undo the nut holding
one of the valve onto the rad and have a bucket / container ready to catch
all the water. Once it's started flowing open the rad bleed valve (on the
top of the rad) to allow the rad to drain faster. Once empty, remove from
all brackets - best to carry upside down to stop all the black dirty water
dropping on your carpets!!!!


But you forgot to mention that the TRV might have a "frost" setting so
although it seems to be shut it might not be ...I know its summer but
still . Thats where a decorators cap comes in useful .These links
might help the OP
http://www.diynot.com/pages/pl/pl031.php
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en...27s+Work&meta=

Doesn't say he has a TRV. If he does, just make sure it's turned off and
not to the frost setting. Or as above, find the decorators cap and screw
that on.

On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 16:22:13 +0100, "Slider" wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 16:01:20 +0100, "Slider" wrote:


"benpost" wrote in message
...
i dont know a lot about rads, and cant make sense of how the valves
stop the water circulating the rad. how does the flow of water get to
the 'out' pipe? the vale seems to be outside the rad so i cant see how
it stops it.

anyway main question is, is it easy to remove a rad off the wall so
that i can get behind it, as it will need replastering? do i need to
stop the water supply completely and drain the system or anything?

i have a main water stop tap and this supplies a combi condensing
boiler which heats the water and central heating.

Turn off valves at each end. Count how many turns it takes to turn off
the
LSV so you can put it back to it's original position when re-fitting
(otherwise the balancing of the system will be out). Undo the nut holding
one of the valve onto the rad and have a bucket / container ready to catch
all the water. Once it's started flowing open the rad bleed valve (on the
top of the rad) to allow the rad to drain faster. Once empty, remove from
all brackets - best to carry upside down to stop all the black dirty water
dropping on your carpets!!!!


But you forgot to mention that the TRV might have a "frost" setting so
although it seems to be shut it might not be ...I know its summer but
still . Thats where a decorators cap comes in useful .These links
might help the OP
http://www.diynot.com/pages/pl/pl031.php
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en...27s+Work&meta=

Doesn't say he has a TRV.

Doesn't say he doesn't either ..LOL


If he does, just make sure it's turned off and
not to the frost setting. Or as above, find the decorators cap and screw
that on.

hi just checking out those links, thanks.
yes i have trv's fitted and they do have a frost setting.

i just read an article about TRV's from the google link....

it does not recommend TRV's with a condensing boiler. however when i
had a new condensing boiler the plumber actually replaced all the rad
valves (except one-bathroom) with TRV's?!?

i do not currently have a proper room thermostat, just a basic timer
that turns the boiler on or off.

so it sounds like i'm not making the most of the efficient boiler.
any advice on what i should do? would it be worth getting a
thermostat installed and having the TRVs removed?

any idea on cost of this? cheers

On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 08:35:13 -0700 (PDT) someone who may be benpost
wrote this:-

any advice on what i should do? would it be worth getting a
thermostat installed and having the TRVs removed?

Find the room which warms up most slowly, cools down most quickly,
is not affected too much by direct sunlight and does not have other
forms of heating in it. This is likely to be a room with a north
facing window, but little else can be said about it as it as it will
vary from house to house.

Fit a plain valve to the radiator in this room and fit a properly
connected thermostat in this room. Then the thermostatic valves in
the other rooms will limit the temperatures there and the thermostat
will bring the boiler/heating pump on and off as necessary.



--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

David Hansen wrote:
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 08:35:13 -0700 (PDT) someone who may be benpost
wrote this:-

any advice on what i should do? would it be worth getting a
thermostat installed and having the TRVs removed?

Find the room which warms up most slowly, cools down most quickly,
is not affected too much by direct sunlight and does not have other
forms of heating in it. This is likely to be a room with a north
facing window, but little else can be said about it as it as it will
vary from house to house.

Fit a plain valve to the radiator in this room and fit a properly
connected thermostat in this room. Then the thermostatic valves in
the other rooms will limit the temperatures there and the thermostat
will bring the boiler/heating pump on and off as necessary.




If the rads are staying in the same place, why take them off at all?
It's pretty easy to plaster/paper/paint up to the brackets, and no one
will see the rest.

thanks for the tips. maybe i dont need to remove them then, i'll see
what the plasterer reckons.
i think a thermostat in the lounge sounds like a good idea (outside
wall, main living area), any ideas on cost? i guess i would be
replacing the current drayton timer with a different one?
could i still use the TRV's on the 'always on' setting so they would
act as standard open valves?

On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 10:30:33 -0700 (PDT), benpost
wrote:

thanks for the tips. maybe i dont need to remove them then, i'll see
what the plasterer reckons.
i think a thermostat in the lounge sounds like a good idea (outside
wall, main living area), any ideas on cost? i guess i would be
replacing the current drayton timer with a different one?
could i still use the TRV's on the 'always on' setting so they would
act as standard open valves?

I got my boiler replaced with a condensing combi and the guy didn't
comment on the fact I had TRV's on all rads except that the one in the
Hall had the thermostatic head missing as it was broken so he said
just to leave it as it was fully open and he fitted a wireless
programmer in the Hall with the accompanying box connected to the
boiler . It was easier doing that than taking a wire under floors ,up
walls etc . It's the RT500RF shown here at £48
http://www.discountedheating.co.uk/s...ermostats.html

thanks for the thermostat link!

just before i go ahead and buy one, do you know the best place to
install a thermostat?

in terms of location of radiators, windows, outside walls, main living
areas? ??

i could probably save money and get a wired one if i had it in the
lounge by the kitchen door, as the other side of the wall is the timer
unit, next to the boiler.

On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 12:58:44 -0700 (PDT), benpost
wrote:

thanks for the thermostat link!

just before i go ahead and buy one, do you know the best place to
install a thermostat?

Pass...lol

in terms of location of radiators, windows, outside walls, main living
areas? ??

i could probably save money and get a wired one if i had it in the
lounge by the kitchen door, as the other side of the wall is the timer
unit, next to the boiler.

If it's a mecahnical unit will it not be redundant tho'?

On 2008-07-23 20:58:44 +0100, benpost said:

thanks for the thermostat link!

just before i go ahead and buy one, do you know the best place to
install a thermostat?

in terms of location of radiators, windows, outside walls, main living
areas? ??

i could probably save money and get a wired one if i had it in the
lounge by the kitchen door, as the other side of the wall is the timer
unit, next to the boiler.

Main living area is the typical one, provided that:

- No additional source of heat such as a gas fire in the living room or
the rest of the house will get cold as the thermostat works to maintain
the set temperature.

- Not over radiators

- No thermostatic radiator valves used in living room. They will
"fight" with the thermostat

- Not near draughty windows


If you can't achieve that, then placing it in the hall is the other
choice - same rules. Kitchens are not a good location.

"benpost" wrote in message
...
i dont know a lot about rads, and cant make sense of how the valves
stop the water circulating the rad. how does the flow of water get to
the 'out' pipe? the vale seems to be outside the rad so i cant see how
it stops it.

anyway main question is, is it easy to remove a rad off the wall so
that i can get behind it, as it will need replastering? do i need to
stop the water supply completely and drain the system or anything?

i have a main water stop tap and this supplies a combi condensing
boiler which heats the water and central heating.


If they are hung on normal brackets and you have enough "slack" in the pipes
feeding them just slacken gently the gland nuts on the rad and lift gently
to clear the brackets then lay the rad horizontal.
Support it on something if you don't want it on the floor.

That way there's minimal disruption, no bleeding to speak of, and no faffing
around with black stains everywhere on the carpets elsewhere

benpost wrote:

could i still use the TRV's on the 'always on' setting so they would
act as standard open valves?

You can take the head off the TRV valve, the valve will then be always on.
Undo the large ring under the valve head - you don't have to drain down to
do this.

benpost wrote:
thanks for the thermostat link!

just before i go ahead and buy one, do you know the best place to
install a thermostat?

in terms of location of radiators, windows, outside walls, main living
areas? ??

See David Hansen's post. Where he says to fit a plain valve you can just
take the TRV head off.

"benpost" wrote in message
...
i dont know a lot about rads, and cant make sense of how the valves
stop the water circulating the rad. how does the flow of water get to
the 'out' pipe? the vale seems to be outside the rad so i cant see how
it stops it.

anyway main question is, is it easy to remove a rad off the wall so
that i can get behind it, as it will need replastering? do i need to
stop the water supply completely and drain the system or anything?

i have a main water stop tap and this supplies a combi condensing
boiler which heats the water and central heating.


If they are hung on normal brackets and you have enough "slack" in the
pipes feeding them just slacken gently the gland nuts on the rad and lift
gently to clear the brackets then lay the rad horizontal.
Support it on something if you don't want it on the floor.

That way there's minimal disruption, no bleeding to speak of, and no
faffing around with black stains everywhere on the carpets elsewhere
Thats what I do. Lean and tie the radiator against my workmate, remove wall
fixings, plaster paint wall. attach fixings back properly (my last house had
the radiator fixings attached top the wall using a combination of 6" nails
and floorboard nails....), rehang radiator.