In the bathroom I have an Armitage Shanks Tiffany close-coupled WC with push
button flush. It is approx. 3 years old.

I have recently noticed that there is a very slight but constant trickle of
water into the bowl as if the siphon has not shut off completely. This is
not a case of the push button assembly pushing down on the siphon as the
flow does not stop when the lid is removed.

I have replaced old siphons in my time but this type is new to me. I don't
know whether there are any serviceable parts. Pictures at:

www.paperman.myby.co.uk/pics/Cist11.jpg

www.paperman.myby.co.uk/pics/Cist22.jpg

Can anyone advise me what the problem could be and let me know if it is
curable or will the whole assembly have to be replaced.

Thank you.

John

"John E" wrote in message
m...
In the bathroom I have an Armitage Shanks Tiffany close-coupled WC with
push
button flush. It is approx. 3 years old.

I have recently noticed that there is a very slight but constant trickle
of
water into the bowl as if the siphon has not shut off completely. This is
not a case of the push button assembly pushing down on the siphon as the
flow does not stop when the lid is removed.

I have replaced old siphons in my time but this type is new to me. I don't
know whether there are any serviceable parts. Pictures at:

www.paperman.myby.co.uk/pics/Cist11.jpg

www.paperman.myby.co.uk/pics/Cist22.jpg

Can anyone advise me what the problem could be and let me know if it is
curable or will the whole assembly have to be replaced.


Looks to me like a flap valve rather than a siphon. These are [very] prone
to leakage. You can get a siphon of roughly the same cross section in B&Q
for under £10, AFAICR. Siphons don't leak (by their nature). They may stop
flushing however if they break.


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

On Wed, 28 May 2008 14:10:58 GMT, John E wrote:

I have recently noticed that there is a very slight but constant trickle
of water into the bowl as if the siphon has not shut off completely.

A siphon is either on or off they don't trickle. Is that a real siphon or
a drop flap valve? Drop flaps can get crud into them and then they will
leak a trickle. I also suspect that that valve/siphon might incorporate an
internal overflow which would also produce a trickle down the pan.

--
Cheers
Dave.

John E wrote:

In the bathroom I have an Armitage Shanks Tiffany close-coupled WC with push
button flush. It is approx. 3 years old.

I have recently noticed that there is a very slight but constant trickle of
water into the bowl as if the siphon has not shut off completely. This is
not a case of the push button assembly pushing down on the siphon as the
flow does not stop when the lid is removed.

I have replaced old siphons in my time but this type is new to me. I don't
know whether there are any serviceable parts. Pictures at:

It is a doddle to fit a new one, just the same as fitting an 'old'
siphon.
Screwfix sell them, but be aware that there are 2 sizes 1.5" and 2"
iirc. The majority are 1.5".
Get a new 'doughnut' or foam washer at the same time. They
compress/break-up over time, so always best to fit a new one.
Alan.
--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Wed, 28 May 2008 14:10:58 GMT, John E wrote:

I have recently noticed that there is a very slight but constant trickle
of water into the bowl as if the siphon has not shut off completely.

A siphon is either on or off they don't trickle. Is that a real siphon or
a drop flap valve? Drop flaps can get crud into them and then they will
leak a trickle. I also suspect that that valve/siphon might incorporate an
internal overflow which would also produce a trickle down the pan.

A lot of modern taps and valves don't take kindly to scale and respond
by dribbling...

"Bob Mannix" wrote in message
...
"John E" wrote in message
m...
In the bathroom I have an Armitage Shanks Tiffany close-coupled WC with
push
button flush. It is approx. 3 years old.

I have recently noticed that there is a very slight but constant trickle
of
water into the bowl as if the siphon has not shut off completely. This is
not a case of the push button assembly pushing down on the siphon as the
flow does not stop when the lid is removed.

I have replaced old siphons in my time but this type is new to me. I
don't
know whether there are any serviceable parts. Pictures at:

www.paperman.myby.co.uk/pics/Cist11.jpg

www.paperman.myby.co.uk/pics/Cist22.jpg

Can anyone advise me what the problem could be and let me know if it is
curable or will the whole assembly have to be replaced.


Looks to me like a flap valve rather than a siphon. These are [very] prone
to leakage. You can get a siphon of roughly the same cross section in B&Q
for under £10, AFAICR. Siphons don't leak (by their nature). They may stop
flushing however if they break.


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

I was hoping to avoid taking the cistern off the wall. It looks as though
the top part of the valve might unclip but I have been reluctant to force it
in case it snaps off and I would really have a problem!

John

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Wed, 28 May 2008 14:10:58 GMT, John E wrote:

I have recently noticed that there is a very slight but constant trickle
of water into the bowl as if the siphon has not shut off completely.

A siphon is either on or off they don't trickle. Is that a real siphon or
a drop flap valve? Drop flaps can get crud into them and then they will
leak a trickle. I also suspect that that valve/siphon might incorporate
an internal overflow which would also produce a trickle down the pan.

A lot of modern taps and valves don't take kindly to scale and respond by
dribbling...

We are in a very hard water area here.

"A.Lee" wrote in message
...
John E wrote:

In the bathroom I have an Armitage Shanks Tiffany close-coupled WC with
push
button flush. It is approx. 3 years old.

I have recently noticed that there is a very slight but constant trickle
of
water into the bowl as if the siphon has not shut off completely. This is
not a case of the push button assembly pushing down on the siphon as the
flow does not stop when the lid is removed.

I have replaced old siphons in my time but this type is new to me. I
don't
know whether there are any serviceable parts. Pictures at:

It is a doddle to fit a new one, just the same as fitting an 'old'
siphon.
Screwfix sell them, but be aware that there are 2 sizes 1.5" and 2"
iirc. The majority are 1.5".
Get a new 'doughnut' or foam washer at the same time. They
compress/break-up over time, so always best to fit a new one.
Alan.
--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

As I mentioned in reply to Bob, I was hoping to avoid de-coupling the WC but
if this is the only way than I will have to do it.

John

On Wed, 28 May 2008 17:06:42 GMT, John E wrote:

I have been reluctant to force it in case it snaps off and I would
really have a problem!

You don't have a bucket? For flushing not using...

--
Cheers
Dave.

John E wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Wed, 28 May 2008 14:10:58 GMT, John E wrote:

I have recently noticed that there is a very slight but constant trickle
of water into the bowl as if the siphon has not shut off completely.
A siphon is either on or off they don't trickle. Is that a real siphon or
a drop flap valve? Drop flaps can get crud into them and then they will
leak a trickle. I also suspect that that valve/siphon might incorporate
an internal overflow which would also produce a trickle down the pan.

A lot of modern taps and valves don't take kindly to scale and respond by
dribbling...

We are in a very hard water area here.




You can get 3 part syphons which allow you to change the working bits
without taking the cistern off. Not much help this time but at least you
wouldn't have to dismantle it again

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.net...
On Wed, 28 May 2008 17:06:42 GMT, John E wrote:

I have been reluctant to force it in case it snaps off and I would
really have a problem!

You don't have a bucket? For flushing not using...

--
Cheers
Dave.



It wouldn't be the first time I have had to resort to using a bucket - as
you say, for flushing not using :-)

John

"stuart noble" wrote in message
...
John E wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Wed, 28 May 2008 14:10:58 GMT, John E wrote:

I have recently noticed that there is a very slight but constant
trickle of water into the bowl as if the siphon has not shut off
completely.
A siphon is either on or off they don't trickle. Is that a real siphon
or a drop flap valve? Drop flaps can get crud into them and then they
will leak a trickle. I also suspect that that valve/siphon might
incorporate an internal overflow which would also produce a trickle
down the pan.

A lot of modern taps and valves don't take kindly to scale and respond
by dribbling...

We are in a very hard water area here.




You can get 3 part syphons which allow you to change the working bits
without taking the cistern off. Not much help this time but at least you
wouldn't have to dismantle it again

Thanks Stuart - I will pop down to our local plumbers merchant and see what
they suggest.
John

On Wed, 28 May 2008 17:06:42 +0000, John E wrote:

"A.Lee" wrote in message
...
John E wrote:

In the bathroom I have an Armitage Shanks Tiffany close-coupled WC
with push
button flush. It is approx. 3 years old.

I have recently noticed that there is a very slight but constant
trickle of
water into the bowl as if the siphon has not shut off completely. This
is not a case of the push button assembly pushing down on the siphon
as the flow does not stop when the lid is removed.

I have replaced old siphons in my time but this type is new to me. I
don't
know whether there are any serviceable parts. Pictures at:

It is a doddle to fit a new one, just the same as fitting an 'old'
siphon.
Screwfix sell them, but be aware that there are 2 sizes 1.5" and 2"
iirc. The majority are 1.5".
Get a new 'doughnut' or foam washer at the same time. They
compress/break-up over time, so always best to fit a new one. Alan.
--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

As I mentioned in reply to Bob, I was hoping to avoid de-coupling the WC
but if this is the only way than I will have to do it.

Now that one's sorted, mine is even more weird - same setup *but* with a
traditional lever and syphon. Every so often it trickles water into the
bowl for ages (1/2 hr+) and the only way to stop it is to flush again or
to take the top off the syphon (which is held on with a plastic pin).

It's not an overflow as the cistern doesn't ever fill up, it just flows
straight out again. The syphon doesn't look full so I don't think water
is going up and over.

Any thoughts?

PCPaul wrote:

Now that one's sorted, mine is even more weird - same setup *but* with a
traditional lever and syphon. Every so often it trickles water into the
bowl for ages (1/2 hr+) and the only way to stop it is to flush again or
to take the top off the syphon (which is held on with a plastic pin).

It's not an overflow as the cistern doesn't ever fill up, it just flows
straight out again. The syphon doesn't look full so I don't think water
is going up and over.
Any thoughts?

Sounds like a bit of muck, or even a few hairs in the cistern, causing
the seals to be slightly open, allowing a trickle out.
I've had them as well where the siphon is slighlty misaligned, and the
slight twist in it stops the spring pushing the flap down to the seal.
Probably easiest to just fit a new siphon.
Also, do you put those blue tablets in your cistern?
They are known siphon killers, as a blue gunge builds up around the
bottom of the cistern.
Alan.
--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

On Wed, 28 May 2008 21:06:14 +0100, A.Lee wrote:

PCPaul wrote:

Now that one's sorted, mine is even more weird - same setup *but* with
a traditional lever and syphon. Every so often it trickles water into
the bowl for ages (1/2 hr+) and the only way to stop it is to flush
again or to take the top off the syphon (which is held on with a
plastic pin).

It's not an overflow as the cistern doesn't ever fill up, it just flows
straight out again. The syphon doesn't look full so I don't think water
is going up and over.
Any thoughts?

Sounds like a bit of muck, or even a few hairs in the cistern, causing
the seals to be slightly open, allowing a trickle out. I've had them as
well where the siphon is slighlty misaligned, and the slight twist in it
stops the spring pushing the flap down to the seal. Probably easiest to
just fit a new siphon. Also, do you put those blue tablets in your
cistern? They are known siphon killers, as a blue gunge builds up around
the bottom of the cistern.
Alan.

But that's the thing - it's a syphon, not a flap valve. There shouldn't
*be* any water to trickle out.

"John E" wrote in message
m...

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.net...
On Wed, 28 May 2008 17:06:42 GMT, John E wrote:

I have been reluctant to force it in case it snaps off and I would
really have a problem!

You don't have a bucket? For flushing not using...

--
Cheers
Dave.



It wouldn't be the first time I have had to resort to using a bucket - as
you say, for flushing not using :-)

John

Eventually the UK will realise they Siphons had advantages over flap
valves - but hey! let's get stuffed by the EU.

PCPaul wrote in message news:uRi%j.10852

Now that one's sorted, mine is even more weird - same setup *but* with a
traditional lever and syphon. Every so often it trickles water into the
bowl for ages (1/2 hr+) and the only way to stop it is to flush again or
to take the top off the syphon (which is held on with a plastic pin).

It's not an overflow as the cistern doesn't ever fill up, it just flows
straight out again. The syphon doesn't look full so I don't think water
is going up and over.

Any thoughts?


Your cistern is on mains water and you have a ballcock set-up for gravity
supply ?


-

"John" wrote in message
...

"John E" wrote in message
m...

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.net...
On Wed, 28 May 2008 17:06:42 GMT, John E wrote:

I have been reluctant to force it in case it snaps off and I would
really have a problem!

You don't have a bucket? For flushing not using...

--
Cheers
Dave.



It wouldn't be the first time I have had to resort to using a bucket - as
you say, for flushing not using :-)

John

Eventually the UK will realise they Siphons had advantages over flap
valves - but hey! let's get stuffed by the EU.
Well, my new toilet was made in Turkey and has an immensely impressive and
high-tech German siphon, so not really an EU problem!

The main problem we have here is that nearly all bathroom stuff is built for
european high pressure water systems (mine isn't). I ended up changing the
filling valve on the toilet (3m45s to fill) for one from B&Q (3m15s) and
then sent off for an "ultra low pressure" diaphram (now 2m30s to fill). The
EU is responsible for the toilet arriving set to a poo leaving 6l flush,
above times are for the quickly implemented, poo removing, 9l flush. It is
dual flush, which IS a good idea.

Also had to return a basin tap (missed the letters "HP" in the catalogue)
even the LP tap is slow.


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

Bob Mannix wrote:
"John" wrote in message
...
"John E" wrote in message
m...
"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.net...
On Wed, 28 May 2008 17:06:42 GMT, John E wrote:

I have been reluctant to force it in case it snaps off and I would
really have a problem!
You don't have a bucket? For flushing not using...

--
Cheers
Dave.


It wouldn't be the first time I have had to resort to using a bucket - as
you say, for flushing not using :-)

John

Eventually the UK will realise they Siphons had advantages over flap
valves - but hey! let's get stuffed by the EU.
Well, my new toilet was made in Turkey and has an immensely impressive and
high-tech German siphon, so not really an EU problem!

The main problem we have here is that nearly all bathroom stuff is built for
european high pressure water systems (mine isn't). I ended up changing the
filling valve on the toilet (3m45s to fill) for one from B&Q (3m15s) and
then sent off for an "ultra low pressure" diaphram (now 2m30s to fill). The
EU is responsible for the toilet arriving set to a poo leaving 6l flush,
above times are for the quickly implemented, poo removing, 9l flush. It is
dual flush, which IS a good idea.

Also had to return a basin tap (missed the letters "HP" in the catalogue)
even the LP tap is slow.



I connected the downstairs cistern to mains pressure - fills in an
impressive sub-30 seconds. (Haven't bothered about accuracy - might be
significantly less.)

For the bathroom cistern (upstairs) I ran a separate 15mm pipe from the
loft tank. It fills very acceptably - though a bit slower - despite the
low-ish head. I actually did this to ensure that the H & C were as
balanced as possible in the bathroom and would not be upset by flushing
(upstairs or down). But I did want it to not be mains fed - so that we
have a few flushes available should there be any water supply problem.

In both cases I used the supplied filling valve without difficulty. One
cistern was Macdee but I can't rememebr the other one.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

"Rod" wrote in message
...
Bob Mannix wrote:
"John" wrote in message
...
"John E" wrote in message
m...
"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.net...
On Wed, 28 May 2008 17:06:42 GMT, John E wrote:

I have been reluctant to force it in case it snaps off and I would
really have a problem!
You don't have a bucket? For flushing not using...

--
Cheers
Dave.


It wouldn't be the first time I have had to resort to using a bucket -
as you say, for flushing not using :-)

John

Eventually the UK will realise they Siphons had advantages over flap
valves - but hey! let's get stuffed by the EU.
Well, my new toilet was made in Turkey and has an immensely impressive
and high-tech German siphon, so not really an EU problem!

The main problem we have here is that nearly all bathroom stuff is built
for european high pressure water systems (mine isn't). I ended up
changing the filling valve on the toilet (3m45s to fill) for one from B&Q
(3m15s) and then sent off for an "ultra low pressure" diaphram (now 2m30s
to fill). The EU is responsible for the toilet arriving set to a poo
leaving 6l flush, above times are for the quickly implemented, poo
removing, 9l flush. It is dual flush, which IS a good idea.

Also had to return a basin tap (missed the letters "HP" in the catalogue)
even the LP tap is slow.



I connected the downstairs cistern to mains pressure - fills in an
impressive sub-30 seconds. (Haven't bothered about accuracy - might be
significantly less.)

For the bathroom cistern (upstairs) I ran a separate 15mm pipe from the
loft tank. It fills very acceptably - though a bit slower - despite the
low-ish head. I actually did this to ensure that the H & C were as
balanced as possible in the bathroom and would not be upset by flushing
(upstairs or down). But I did want it to not be mains fed - so that we
have a few flushes available should there be any water supply problem.

In both cases I used the supplied filling valve without difficulty. One
cistern was Macdee but I can't rememebr the other one.

--
Rod

You may have a conventional ball cock with low pressure cone inserted -
these will fill fastest. Small diameter, silent, modern plastic valves are
not great on flow rates! Impressively silent though, or would be except
there's a ball cock in the loft tamk and you can hear that after the toilet
fills!


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

Bob Mannix wrote:
"Rod" wrote in message
...
Bob Mannix wrote:
"John" wrote in message
...
"John E" wrote in message
m...
"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.net...
On Wed, 28 May 2008 17:06:42 GMT, John E wrote:

I have been reluctant to force it in case it snaps off and I would
really have a problem!
You don't have a bucket? For flushing not using...

--
Cheers
Dave.


It wouldn't be the first time I have had to resort to using a bucket -
as you say, for flushing not using :-)

John

Eventually the UK will realise they Siphons had advantages over flap
valves - but hey! let's get stuffed by the EU.
Well, my new toilet was made in Turkey and has an immensely impressive
and high-tech German siphon, so not really an EU problem!

The main problem we have here is that nearly all bathroom stuff is built
for european high pressure water systems (mine isn't). I ended up
changing the filling valve on the toilet (3m45s to fill) for one from B&Q
(3m15s) and then sent off for an "ultra low pressure" diaphram (now 2m30s
to fill). The EU is responsible for the toilet arriving set to a poo
leaving 6l flush, above times are for the quickly implemented, poo
removing, 9l flush. It is dual flush, which IS a good idea.

Also had to return a basin tap (missed the letters "HP" in the catalogue)
even the LP tap is slow.


I connected the downstairs cistern to mains pressure - fills in an
impressive sub-30 seconds. (Haven't bothered about accuracy - might be
significantly less.)

For the bathroom cistern (upstairs) I ran a separate 15mm pipe from the
loft tank. It fills very acceptably - though a bit slower - despite the
low-ish head. I actually did this to ensure that the H & C were as
balanced as possible in the bathroom and would not be upset by flushing
(upstairs or down). But I did want it to not be mains fed - so that we
have a few flushes available should there be any water supply problem.

In both cases I used the supplied filling valve without difficulty. One
cistern was Macdee but I can't rememebr the other one.

--
Rod

You may have a conventional ball cock with low pressure cone inserted -
these will fill fastest. Small diameter, silent, modern plastic valves are
not great on flow rates! Impressively silent though, or would be except
there's a ball cock in the loft tamk and you can hear that after the toilet
fills!


Could have been, I agree, but definitely not. Small plastic things.
Quiet. Modern!

(Actually the old old-fashioned ballcock that had been fitted to the
previous downstairs cistern could take around 10 minutes to fill. Scale
was the culprit there.)

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

On Wed, 28 May 2008 23:36:06 +0000, Mark wrote:

PCPaul wrote in message news:uRi%j.10852

Now that one's sorted, mine is even more weird - same setup *but* with
a traditional lever and syphon. Every so often it trickles water into
the bowl for ages (1/2 hr+) and the only way to stop it is to flush
again or to take the top off the syphon (which is held on with a
plastic pin).

It's not an overflow as the cistern doesn't ever fill up, it just flows
straight out again. The syphon doesn't look full so I don't think water
is going up and over.

Any thoughts?


Your cistern is on mains water and you have a ballcock set-up for
gravity supply ?


Nope - it's not a leaking valve causing an overflow, while this is going
on water is coming in through the valve (slowly - it normally takes 5 min
or so to fill up) but is going straight out again. But as far as I can
see the syphon should be in the way...

The only thing I can think of is a leak at the bottom of the syphon where
it gets clamped to the cistern floor. But then I can't see why it doesn't
happen all the time, and why it goes down the pan not onto the floor.

PCPaul wrote in message
...

It's not an overflow as the cistern doesn't ever fill up, it just flows
straight out again. The syphon doesn't look full so I don't think water
is going up and over.

Any thoughts?


Your cistern is on mains water and you have a ballcock set-up for
gravity supply ?


Nope - it's not a leaking valve causing an overflow, while this is going
on water is coming in through the valve (slowly - it normally takes 5 min
or so to fill up) but is going straight out again. But as far as I can
see the syphon should be in the way...

The only thing I can think of is a leak at the bottom of the syphon where
it gets clamped to the cistern floor. But then I can't see why it doesn't
happen all the time, and why it goes down the pan not onto the floor.



Its not leaking its continuing to siphon this happens with a partially
failed flush ie normally all the water is siphoned out in one quick go until
sufficient air is sucked into the siphon to stop the process.
With a failed normal flush and sufficient incoming water it can continue to
siphon, the cure is to replace the diaphragm or limit the water volume
entering the cistern when the ball cock is *Fully open*.


-

On Thu, 29 May 2008 08:46:52 +0100, Rod
wrote:

I connected the downstairs cistern to mains pressure

For the bathroom cistern (upstairs) I ran a separate 15mm pipe from the
loft tank.

Hi. Reading the posts I got the impression a few people had
gravity-fed feeds to the toilet from the loft. Is this the way you
are supposed to do it? I think the toilets in the houses I have lived
in have always been direct off the mains.

I was going to ask why you would connect to the loft tank. I suppose
that it might be convenient to tee off the bath supply (though I note
Rod has run a separate feed) but wouldn't you also have a mains feed
to the basin that you could use? Or have I got that wrong too? Should
be basin be gravity fed (again, I don't think any of mine have ever
been).

I actually did this to ensure that the H & C were as
balanced as possible in the bathroom and would not be upset by flushing
(upstairs or down).

I thought you only needed to balance showers, not baths or basins.

But then I read this:

But I did want it to not be mains fed - so that we
have a few flushes available should there be any water supply problem.

Which sounds a very good idea. Why didn't I think of that?

Fred wrote:
On Thu, 29 May 2008 08:46:52 +0100, Rod
wrote:

I connected the downstairs cistern to mains pressure

For the bathroom cistern (upstairs) I ran a separate 15mm pipe from the
loft tank.

Hi. Reading the posts I got the impression a few people had
gravity-fed feeds to the toilet from the loft. Is this the way you
are supposed to do it? I think the toilets in the houses I have lived
in have always been direct off the mains.

I was going to ask why you would connect to the loft tank. I suppose
that it might be convenient to tee off the bath supply (though I note
Rod has run a separate feed) but wouldn't you also have a mains feed
to the basin that you could use? Or have I got that wrong too? Should
be basin be gravity fed (again, I don't think any of mine have ever
been).

I actually did this to ensure that the H & C were as
balanced as possible in the bathroom and would not be upset by flushing
(upstairs or down).

I thought you only needed to balance showers, not baths or basins.

But then I read this:

But I did want it to not be mains fed - so that we
have a few flushes available should there be any water supply problem.

Which sounds a very good idea. Why didn't I think of that?

It is nice if the temperatures of the various mixers (bath, bathroom
basin and cloakroom basin) do not get thrown by the cistern suddenly
starting to fill or cutting off. Of course, there will inevitably be
some temperature drift when multiple taps are in use, including the
kitchen hot.

This house has always had the bathroom cold fed from the tank. I chose
to let it stay like that in an attempt to keep even flows of H & C.
Also, tank fed water is usually quieter - even though the tank refill
might replace that noise. With a brand new tank, I am comfortable using
the tank water for tooth brushing. (I could quite easily have fed mains
cold if I had wanted to.) But most properties I have lived in, IIRC, the
bathroom cold has been direct mains.

I only really thought about the water cut issue because just before I
did the work there had been major disruption to our mains. Sort of made
it obvious. But as both cisterns had previously been very slow I was
quite ready to make them both mains, if needed.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org