Same model as the one with the soap dispenser, as it happens...

Odd, this. SWMBO reported that the machine was making horrible grindy
noises while it was pumping out, but not while it was washing. But of
course, rather than switch off and wait for me to come home and take a
look, she lets it keep running until the end of the cycle and emanation
of what she described as an 'electrical' smell - I'm not entirely sure
which came first. Bless.

Anyway - sounded to me like a Foreign Body in the impeller, so I took
out the filters etc, unscrewed the cover in the sump, and sure enough,
found a hard lump of crud in the pump chamber where i'm sure it was
doing no good at all to the impeller.

Put it all back together, and the pump was clearly spinning fine now.
However, the machine now keeps running when you open the door; which you
have to do as all the controls are hidden on the top edge. I really
don't know what's going on - looks like a failure of some detector
switch or other, but what I really can't fathom is how this can be
related to the original problem of the part-jammed pump. Can't believe
it's coincidence??

Any thoughts

On Oct 8, 11:30 pm, Lobster wrote:
Same model as the one with the soap dispenser, as it happens...

Odd, this. SWMBO reported that the machine was making horrible grindy
noises while it was pumping out, but not while it was washing. But of
course, rather than switch off and wait for me to come home and take a
look, she lets it keep running until the end of the cycle and emanation
of what she described as an 'electrical' smell - I'm not entirely sure
which came first. Bless.

Anyway - sounded to me like a Foreign Body in the impeller, so I took
out the filters etc, unscrewed the cover in the sump, and sure enough,
found a hard lump of crud in the pump chamber where i'm sure it was
doing no good at all to the impeller.

Put it all back together, and the pump was clearly spinning fine now.
However, the machine now keeps running when you open the door; which you
have to do as all the controls are hidden on the top edge. I really
don't know what's going on - looks like a failure of some detector
switch or other, but what I really can't fathom is how this can be
related to the original problem of the part-jammed pump. Can't believe
it's coincidence??

Any thoughts

Is it just the pump that is running constantly? If so it's possible
that the triac that runs it has died due to the overload. They are
only a couple of quid - but getting to it might be challenging.

Steve

stevelup wrote:
On Oct 8, 11:30 pm, Lobster wrote:
Same model as the one with the soap dispenser, as it happens...

Odd, this. SWMBO reported that the machine was making horrible grindy
noises while it was pumping out, but not while it was washing. But of
course, rather than switch off and wait for me to come home and take a
look, she lets it keep running until the end of the cycle and emanation
of what she described as an 'electrical' smell - I'm not entirely sure
which came first. Bless.

Anyway - sounded to me like a Foreign Body in the impeller, so I took
out the filters etc, unscrewed the cover in the sump, and sure enough,
found a hard lump of crud in the pump chamber where i'm sure it was
doing no good at all to the impeller.

Put it all back together, and the pump was clearly spinning fine now.
However, the machine now keeps running when you open the door; which you
have to do as all the controls are hidden on the top edge. I really
don't know what's going on - looks like a failure of some detector
switch or other, but what I really can't fathom is how this can be
related to the original problem of the part-jammed pump. Can't believe
it's coincidence??

Any thoughts

Is it just the pump that is running constantly? If so it's possible
that the triac that runs it has died due to the overload. They are
only a couple of quid - but getting to it might be challenging.

Ooh - yes, exactly that. So a blown triac would cause these symptoms then?

Have had a look at the exploded parts diagram for my model (SGV4313GB)
at http://www.bshappliancecare.com/Bosch/boschspares.html but can't see
anything... is it likely to be physically on the pump motor or remote
somewhere?

I don't know much about electronickery, but I can certainly desolder and
replace a triac if I know where it is... no doubt if the Bosch engineer
comes he'll just dump the whole motor and replace it at cast cost :-(

Dvaid

On Oct 9, 2:10 pm, Lobster wrote:
Ooh - yes, exactly that. So a blown triac would cause these symptoms then?

Have had a look at the exploded parts diagram for my model (SGV4313GB)
athttp://www.bshappliancecare.com/Bosch/boschspares.htmlbut can't see
anything... is it likely to be physically on the pump motor or remote
somewhere?

I don't know much about electronickery, but I can certainly desolder and
replace a triac if I know where it is... no doubt if the Bosch engineer
comes he'll just dump the whole motor and replace it at cast cost :-(

Try tracing the motor wires back to a controller, I'd expect the triac
to be on a PCB in the there.

If you can post a decent picture of such a PCB I'm sure it can be
identified.

Failing that try ukwhitegoods if you need a replacement.

cheers,
Pete.

On 9 Oct, 14:10, Lobster wrote:
stevelup wrote:
On Oct 8, 11:30 pm, Lobster wrote:
Same model as the one with the soap dispenser, as it happens...

Odd, this. SWMBO reported that the machine was making horrible grindy
noises while it was pumping out, but not while it was washing. But of
course, rather than switch off and wait for me to come home and take a
look, she lets it keep running until the end of the cycle and emanation
of what she described as an 'electrical' smell - I'm not entirely sure
which came first. Bless.

Anyway - sounded to me like a Foreign Body in the impeller, so I took
out the filters etc, unscrewed the cover in the sump, and sure enough,
found a hard lump of crud in the pump chamber where i'm sure it was
doing no good at all to the impeller.

Put it all back together, and the pump was clearly spinning fine now.
However, the machine now keeps running when you open the door; which you
have to do as all the controls are hidden on the top edge. I really
don't know what's going on - looks like a failure of some detector
switch or other, but what I really can't fathom is how this can be
related to the original problem of the part-jammed pump. Can't believe
it's coincidence??

Any thoughts

Is it just the pump that is running constantly? If so it's possible
that the triac that runs it has died due to the overload. They are
only a couple of quid - but getting to it might be challenging.

Ooh - yes, exactly that. So a blown triac would cause these symptoms then?

Have had a look at the exploded parts diagram for my model (SGV4313GB)
athttp://www.bshappliancecare.com/Bosch/boschspares.htmlbut can't see
anything... is it likely to be physically on the pump motor or remote
somewhere?

I don't know much about electronickery, but I can certainly desolder and
replace a triac if I know where it is... no doubt if the Bosch engineer
comes he'll just dump the whole motor and replace it at cast cost :-(

Dvaid

I don't know this model but it's also possible that it has an overflow/
leak detector which has tripped. On my AEG dishwasher there is a
float activated switch in the base. If water builds up there it trips
and runs the pump continously - even when the machine is switched off
- so that you have to actually unplug it from the wall the stop it.
The detector is manual reset so that just mopping out the water isn't
enough, you have to reset the switch too.
If I were in your situation I'd take the panels off and have a look in
the base, If you can see a large-ish lump of expanded polysytrene
look for a switch activated by it. If it's wet there or if you may
have knocked it during previous maintenence then you'll need to reset
it.

Good luck.

Calvin wrote:
On 9 Oct, 14:10, Lobster wrote:
stevelup wrote:
On Oct 8, 11:30 pm, Lobster wrote:
Same model as the one with the soap dispenser, as it happens...
Odd, this. SWMBO reported that the machine was making horrible grindy
noises while it was pumping out, but not while it was washing. But of
course, rather than switch off and wait for me to come home and take a
look, she lets it keep running until the end of the cycle and emanation
of what she described as an 'electrical' smell - I'm not entirely sure
which came first. Bless.
Anyway - sounded to me like a Foreign Body in the impeller, so I took
out the filters etc, unscrewed the cover in the sump, and sure enough,
found a hard lump of crud in the pump chamber where i'm sure it was
doing no good at all to the impeller.
Put it all back together, and the pump was clearly spinning fine now.
However, the machine now keeps running when you open the door; which you
have to do as all the controls are hidden on the top edge. I really
don't know what's going on - looks like a failure of some detector
switch or other, but what I really can't fathom is how this can be
related to the original problem of the part-jammed pump. Can't believe
it's coincidence??
Any thoughts
Is it just the pump that is running constantly? If so it's possible
that the triac that runs it has died due to the overload. They are
only a couple of quid - but getting to it might be challenging.
Ooh - yes, exactly that. So a blown triac would cause these symptoms then?

Have had a look at the exploded parts diagram for my model (SGV4313GB)
athttp://www.bshappliancecare.com/Bosch/boschspares.htmlbut can't see
anything... is it likely to be physically on the pump motor or remote
somewhere?

I don't know much about electronickery, but I can certainly desolder and
replace a triac if I know where it is... no doubt if the Bosch engineer
comes he'll just dump the whole motor and replace it at cast cost :-(

Dvaid

I don't know this model but it's also possible that it has an overflow/
leak detector which has tripped. On my AEG dishwasher there is a
float activated switch in the base. If water builds up there it trips
and runs the pump continously - even when the machine is switched off
- so that you have to actually unplug it from the wall the stop it.
The detector is manual reset so that just mopping out the water isn't
enough, you have to reset the switch too.
If I were in your situation I'd take the panels off and have a look in
the base, If you can see a large-ish lump of expanded polysytrene
look for a switch activated by it. If it's wet there or if you may
have knocked it during previous maintenence then you'll need to reset
it.

Now that *is* interesting... I spent ages earlier this evening pulling
off panels and trying in vain to find a PCB, and also to remove a
plastic cover from where I think the triac *might* be hiding, and
eventually gave up in disgust.

However, I did notice that the base of the machine had a quarter-inch of
stagnant water in there... I spotted the float switch, and thought it
looked like it must be perilously close to tripping, and made a mental
note to tell the engineer when he comes. Never occurred to me that it
might actually have tripped, and that this could set the pump off.

I shall investigate further tomorrow!

Thanks
David

On Oct 9, 5:17 pm, Pete C wrote:
On Oct 9, 2:10 pm, Lobster wrote:

Ooh - yes, exactly that. So a blown triac would cause these symptoms then?

Have had a look at the exploded parts diagram for my model (SGV4313GB)
athttp://www.bshappliancecare.com/Bosch/boschspares.htmlbutcan't see
anything... is it likely to be physically on the pump motor or remote
somewhere?

I don't know much about electronickery, but I can certainly desolder and
replace a triac if I know where it is... no doubt if the Bosch engineer
comes he'll just dump the whole motor and replace it at cast cost :-(

Try tracing the motor wires back to a controller, I'd expect the triac
to be on a PCB in the there.

If you can post a decent picture of such a PCB I'm sure it can be
identified.

Failing that try ukwhitegoods if you need a replacement.

cheers,
Pete.

Hi

The control module is always in the door on Bosch dishwashers (or on
every one I have ever seen).

Steve

Lobster wrote:
Calvin wrote:
On Oct 8, 11:30 pm, Lobster wrote:
Same model as the one with the soap dispenser, as it happens...
Odd, this. SWMBO reported that the machine was making horrible grindy
noises while it was pumping out, but not while it was washing. But of
course, rather than switch off and wait for me to come home and take a
look, she lets it keep running until the end of the cycle and
emanation
of what she described as an 'electrical' smell - I'm not entirely sure
which came first. Bless.
Anyway - sounded to me like a Foreign Body in the impeller, so I took
out the filters etc, unscrewed the cover in the sump, and sure enough,
found a hard lump of crud in the pump chamber where i'm sure it was
doing no good at all to the impeller.
Put it all back together, and the pump was clearly spinning fine now.
However, the machine now keeps running when you open the door;
which you
have to do as all the controls are hidden on the top edge. I really
don't know what's going on - looks like a failure of some detector
switch or other, but what I really can't fathom is how this can be
related to the original problem of the part-jammed pump. Can't believe
it's coincidence??


I don't know this model but it's also possible that it has an overflow/
leak detector which has tripped. On my AEG dishwasher there is a
float activated switch in the base. If water builds up there it trips
and runs the pump continously - even when the machine is switched off
- so that you have to actually unplug it from the wall the stop it.
The detector is manual reset so that just mopping out the water isn't
enough, you have to reset the switch too.
If I were in your situation I'd take the panels off and have a look in
the base, If you can see a large-ish lump of expanded polysytrene
look for a switch activated by it. If it's wet there or if you may
have knocked it during previous maintenence then you'll need to reset
it.

Now that *is* interesting... I spent ages earlier this evening pulling
off panels and trying in vain to find a PCB, and also to remove a
plastic cover from where I think the triac *might* be hiding, and
eventually gave up in disgust.

However, I did notice that the base of the machine had a quarter-inch of
stagnant water in there... I spotted the float switch, and thought it
looked like it must be perilously close to tripping, and made a mental
note to tell the engineer when he comes. Never occurred to me that it
might actually have tripped, and that this could set the pump off.

Hoo-rah! That was exactly the problem. I dried out the base, and it's
now working fine. Thanks very much indeed as you've definitely saved me
an unnecessary engineer call-out (and I'm very relieved I hadn't started
de-soldering PCBs!! ;-) )

It's odd that this happened just at the same time as the pump got the
crud in... the only thing I can think of is that the float switch was
teetering on the threshold of tripping, and maybe I put my weight on the
inside of the machine enough to send it over the edge. God knows where
the leak is coming from, but judging by the yuck factor of the leaked
fluid it looks like a very slow one. (Watch out for the next
installment on uk.d-i-y in a couple of months: "How do you track down a
slow leak in a dishwasher?")

Thanks again
David

Lobster wrote:
Lobster wrote:
Calvin wrote:
On Oct 8, 11:30 pm, Lobster wrote:
snipped tale of knackered machine

I don't know this model but it's also possible that it has an overflow/
leak detector which has tripped. On my AEG dishwasher there is a
float activated switch in the base. If water builds up there it trips
and runs the pump continously - even when the machine is switched off
- so that you have to actually unplug it from the wall the stop it.
The detector is manual reset so that just mopping out the water isn't
enough, you have to reset the switch too.
If I were in your situation I'd take the panels off and have a look in
the base, If you can see a large-ish lump of expanded polysytrene
look for a switch activated by it. If it's wet there or if you may
have knocked it during previous maintenence then you'll need to reset
it.

Hoo-rah! That was exactly the problem. I dried out the base, and it's
now working fine. Thanks very much indeed as you've definitely saved me
an unnecessary engineer call-out (and I'm very relieved I hadn't started
de-soldering PCBs!! ;-) )

It's odd that this happened just at the same time as the pump got the
crud in... the only thing I can think of is that the float switch was
teetering on the threshold of tripping, and maybe I put my weight on the
inside of the machine enough to send it over the edge. God knows where
the leak is coming from, but judging by the yuck factor of the leaked
fluid it looks like a very slow one. (Watch out for the next
installment on uk.d-i-y in a couple of months: "How do you track down a
slow leak in a dishwasher?")

Well, I'm back - but in just less 1 month - to ask "How do you track
down a slow leak in a dishwasher"?!

The machine tripped again, and the base tray of my Bosch is again filled
with water (as in, about 3-4 mm deep), so there is indeed a small leak.
I have the side panels off, but can't for the life of me see where
it might be coming from.

Where do you start?

The internals of the base of the machine are incredibly cramped; there's
no room to see anything or get tools in there. I can't even get in to
dry out the base tray properly (the whole base tray is wet), and I can't
see anything else (pipes, connectors etc that is damp or leaking).

I'm sure a dishwasher engineer would be able to resolve this - but how??

Thanks
David

On Nov 7, 8:08 pm, Lobster
Well, I'm back - but in just less 1 month - to ask "How do you track
down a slow leak in a dishwasher"?!

The machine tripped again, and the base tray of my Bosch is again filled
with water (as in, about 3-4 mm deep), so there is indeed a small leak.
I have the side panels off, but can't for the life of me see where
it might be coming from.

Where do you start?

The internals of the base of the machine are incredibly cramped; there's
no room to see anything or get tools in there. I can't even get in to
dry out the base tray properly (the whole base tray is wet), and I can't
see anything else (pipes, connectors etc that is damp or leaking).

I'm sure a dishwasher engineer would be able to resolve this - but how??

Try the forums at ukwhitegoods.

Out of interest, are you in a hard water area, if so do you use salt
or just 3in1 tablets?

cheers,
Pete.

Thanks
David

On 7 Nov, 20:08, Lobster wrote:
Lobster wrote:
Lobster wrote:
Calvin wrote:
On Oct 8, 11:30 pm, Lobster wrote:

snipped tale of knackered machine





I don't know this model but it's also possible that it has an overflow/
leak detector which has tripped. On my AEG dishwasher there is a
float activated switch in the base. If water builds up there it trips
and runs the pump continously - even when the machine is switched off
- so that you have to actually unplug it from the wall the stop it.
The detector is manual reset so that just mopping out the water isn't
enough, you have to reset the switch too.
If I were in your situation I'd take the panels off and have a look in
the base, If you can see a large-ish lump of expanded polysytrene
look for a switch activated by it. If it's wet there or if you may
have knocked it during previous maintenence then you'll need to reset
it.

Hoo-rah! That was exactly the problem. I dried out the base, and it's
now working fine. Thanks very much indeed as you've definitely saved me
an unnecessary engineer call-out (and I'm very relieved I hadn't started
de-soldering PCBs!! ;-) )

It's odd that this happened just at the same time as the pump got the
crud in... the only thing I can think of is that the float switch was
teetering on the threshold of tripping, and maybe I put my weight on the
inside of the machine enough to send it over the edge. God knows where
the leak is coming from, but judging by the yuck factor of the leaked
fluid it looks like a very slow one. (Watch out for the next
installment on uk.d-i-y in a couple of months: "How do you track down a
slow leak in a dishwasher?")

Well, I'm back - but in just less 1 month - to ask "How do you track
down a slow leak in a dishwasher"?!

The machine tripped again, and the base tray of my Bosch is again filled
with water (as in, about 3-4 mm deep), so there is indeed a small leak.
I have the side panels off, but can't for the life of me see where
it might be coming from.

Where do you start?

The internals of the base of the machine are incredibly cramped; there's
no room to see anything or get tools in there. I can't even get in to
dry out the base tray properly (the whole base tray is wet), and I can't
see anything else (pipes, connectors etc that is damp or leaking).

I'm sure a dishwasher engineer would be able to resolve this - but how??

Thanks
David

1. Get hands on Haynes Dishwasher Manual for the general advice.
2. Our 1988 model Bosch S710's outlet pipe was brittle and had a
slight crack - manky water all over the base tray (roughly equalled
evaporation rate). £2.99 or something from Screwfix. Had to remove a
red 90 degree elbow where it attached to the drain pump to fit the
Screwfix pipe's rubber end directly.
3. I took it into the garage (for lots of space) and got my brother to
help taking panels off and assist lifting the machine off the base
tray. It had gone slightly rust-scabbed, so a wire brush and smooth
white Hammerite sorted that out. Putting the machine back on the base
tray required accuracy - and wear toe caps!
4. The inlet hose since developed a leak - another hose was sourced
for minimal £ from Screwfix, I dragged the DW out from under the
worktop, took off the front kickstrip, removed the pipe from the inlet
valve (after turning off the water), hacked the fitting off the end of
the leaking pipe and pulled it out from the rear of the DW. Threading
the new one in was easy with an assistant, a desk light, and finding
an easier route through for the new (longer) hose.

If it's leaking higher up the machine, it will feel damp higher up
when you start removing more panels. Get egg boxes etc for the screws
and make copious notes!

James

On Wed, 07 Nov 2007 20:08:46 GMT, Lobster
wrote:

The machine tripped again, and the base tray of my Bosch is again filled
with water (as in, about 3-4 mm deep), so there is indeed a small leak.
I have the side panels off, but can't for the life of me see where
it might be coming from.

Where do you start?

Maybe he http://www.teamhack.de/index.php?site=anleitungen at number 10.

It's German, so I'll summarize.

Symptom: Slow dribbling leak from the left side water widget overflow hole?

Cu Fat black hose clogged, clean out (it's marked in green on the photos).
Best way is to take off bottom tray when unit is on the back...


HTH,

Thomas Prufer

On 7 Nov, 23:38, wrote:

A picture tells a thousand words. I now use a digital camera rather than a
sketch and notes. It's much more accurate, and better for the bit you forgot
about.

I only do that to get a 2nd opinion/identification/gather data from a
spec plate when I C.B.A. to copy it all out. Dismantling an appliance,
I will always reach for a large piece of cornflake box and a biro and
scrawl "2 screws holding top cover on at rear L&R"... "motor wiring
connector, red wire towards top, purple towards bottom" "cable tie cut
at motor mounting"... and so on.