Hi,

I'm going to give my Mum's kitchen a bit of a "lift". The units are
fine, the doors are dated, the worktop is knackered.

I am having the worktops fitted by someone who has done it for me
before and he did it beautifully with great joints.

I am going to have a go at painting the doors. The doors are, say,
20 years old, only one is swelling. The doors have a chipboard /
fibreboard core with a "plastic" laminate coating. My approach is /
might be:

1. Clean doors thoroughly with dissolved Soda Crystals or Sugar Soap
to get rid of the grease.
2. Rub the surfaces gently (with what?) to create a key for the
undercoat.
3. Roller paint the doors with 2(?) coats of undercoat. Will that
"bond" to the door laminate or should I use some other form of
undercoat?
4. Paint the doors with a fine roller. Should I use any "special" top
coat, say, "kitchen" paint? Should I spray the top coat with some kind
of matt polyutherane "varnish" to seal the paint and limit the
penetration of grease and stains into the new paint work?
5. Have a new door cut from moisture resistant MDF and paint as above.
How do I get the holes for the hinges cut? Is there a special drill
bit for this?
6. Then I can finish with more modern handles.

Anything I have missed or will be a lot trickier than I have
thought? The reason for painting the doors is not just cost because
the painting will take time but that the wall cabinet doors are old
and very long and there isn't a modern equivalent of this size.

I think £35 per door from online stores for MDF blanks is criminal
when moisture resistant MDF is about £25 per 8 x 4 and I can have each
door cut for £1. I am not going the MDF replacement route because of
the possible tricky issue of cutting the holes for the hinges.


Thanks

Clive

Clive wrote:
Load of snips
I'm going to give my Mum's kitchen a bit of a "lift". The units are
fine, the doors are dated, ....
I am going to have a go at painting the doors. The doors are, say,
20 years old, only one is swelling. The doors have a chipboard /
fibreboard core with a "plastic" laminate coating. My approach is /
might be:..........
The reason for painting the doors is not just cost because
the painting will take time but that the wall cabinet doors are old
and very long and there isn't a modern equivalent of this size.

I think £35 per door from online stores for MDF blanks is criminal
when moisture resistant MDF is about £25 per 8 x 4 and I can have each
door cut for £1.

Dont even try to paint them, they'll look bloody awful - they'll be fine
for your Mum if she likes to think of what her kitchen looked like in
the 60's and 70's.
Have a look at the Screwfix door prices - £10 ish, no matter what colour
they are, it'll be better than painting existing doors. Measure your
existing ones and see if any of the range will fit. If you have to add a
small section to the bottom, it could be blended in quite easily, and
the finish will still be better than painting old doors.
How many units? At £40/unit from Screwfix, it may pay to replace all of
them if you are having new worktops fitted.
It's your Mum, you know you should make the effort!
Alan.
--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

Clive wrote:
Hi,

I'm going to give my Mum's kitchen a bit of a "lift". The units are
fine, the doors are dated, the worktop is knackered.

I am having the worktops fitted by someone who has done it for me
before and he did it beautifully with great joints.

I am going to have a go at painting the doors. The doors are, say,
20 years old, only one is swelling. The doors have a chipboard /
fibreboard core with a "plastic" laminate coating. My approach is /
might be:

1. Clean doors thoroughly with dissolved Soda Crystals or Sugar Soap
to get rid of the grease.
2. Rub the surfaces gently (with what?) to create a key for the
undercoat.
3. Roller paint the doors with 2(?) coats of undercoat. Will that
"bond" to the door laminate or should I use some other form of
undercoat?
4. Paint the doors with a fine roller. Should I use any "special" top
coat, say, "kitchen" paint? Should I spray the top coat with some kind
of matt polyutherane "varnish" to seal the paint and limit the
penetration of grease and stains into the new paint work?
5. Have a new door cut from moisture resistant MDF and paint as above.
How do I get the holes for the hinges cut? Is there a special drill
bit for this?

The hinge holes are easy but you need a drill press with depth-stop and
a Forstner bit i.e
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...96960&ts=30386 of the
right size to drill them. I would not attempt them with a hand held
drill. The old hinge hole will show a centre mark which can be used to
make sure that you get the correct position on the new doors by drilling
through with a small drill and then transferring that to the new door.
6. Then I can finish with more modern handles.

Yep, make a simple jig for the handles so that they are all at exactly
the same height and distance in from the edge.

Anything I have missed or will be a lot trickier than I have
thought? The reason for painting the doors is not just cost because
the painting will take time but that the wall cabinet doors are old
and very long and there isn't a modern equivalent of this size.

You can try painting them but don't expect too much.

I think £35 per door from online stores for MDF blanks is criminal
when moisture resistant MDF is about £25 per 8 x 4 and I can have each
door cut for £1. I am not going the MDF replacement route because of
the possible tricky issue of cutting the holes for the hinges.


Thanks

Clive

Steve

"Clive" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,

I'm going to give my Mum's kitchen a bit of a "lift". The units are
fine, the doors are dated, the worktop is knackered.

I am having the worktops fitted by someone who has done it for me
before and he did it beautifully with great joints.

I am going to have a go at painting the doors. The doors are, say,
20 years old, only one is swelling. The doors have a chipboard /
fibreboard core with a "plastic" laminate coating. My approach is /
might be:


It will look crap with big brush strokes and parts swelling. Even with a
roller it will look terrible, like some cowboy has been at it.

I think £35 per door from online stores for MDF blanks is criminal
when moisture resistant MDF is about £25 per 8 x 4 and I can have each
door cut for £1. I am not going the MDF replacement route because of
the possible tricky issue of cutting the holes for the hinges.

So why mention it? Also why offer to do half a job rather than a proper
job. It will only have to be done again, so the money wasted on fixing what
you do could have been used to do it properly.

Steve wrote:
Clive wrote:
Hi,

I'm going to give my Mum's kitchen a bit of a "lift". The units are
fine, the doors are dated, the worktop is knackered.

I am having the worktops fitted by someone who has done it for me
before and he did it beautifully with great joints.

I am going to have a go at painting the doors. The doors are, say,
20 years old, only one is swelling. The doors have a chipboard /
fibreboard core with a "plastic" laminate coating. My approach is /
might be:

1. Clean doors thoroughly with dissolved Soda Crystals or Sugar Soap
to get rid of the grease.

boiling caustic soda solution. Insulating gloves of course.

2. Rub the surfaces gently (with what?) to create a key for the
undercoat.

fine sandpaper?


Anything I have missed or will be a lot trickier than I have
thought? The reason for painting the doors is not just cost because
the painting will take time but that the wall cabinet doors are old
and very long and there isn't a modern equivalent of this size.

You can try painting them but don't expect too much.

Car spray paint if thats the route you want to go. It gets on
everything, and must be done outside the house, but the finish quality
is pretty good if sprayed evenly.


NT

wrote:
Steve wrote:
Clive wrote:
Hi,

I'm going to give my Mum's kitchen a bit of a "lift". The units are
fine, the doors are dated, the worktop is knackered.

I am having the worktops fitted by someone who has done it for me
before and he did it beautifully with great joints.

I am going to have a go at painting the doors. The doors are, say,
20 years old, only one is swelling. The doors have a chipboard /
fibreboard core with a "plastic" laminate coating. My approach is /
might be:

1. Clean doors thoroughly with dissolved Soda Crystals or Sugar Soap
to get rid of the grease.

boiling caustic soda solution. Insulating gloves of course.

Way OTT. Bicarbonate of soda, or washing soda if they're really greasy.

2. Rub the surfaces gently (with what?) to create a key for the
undercoat.

fine sandpaper?

Yes but a good quality, non-clogging type. 3M etc


Anything I have missed or will be a lot trickier than I have
thought? The reason for painting the doors is not just cost because
the painting will take time but that the wall cabinet doors are old
and very long and there isn't a modern equivalent of this size.
You can try painting them but don't expect too much.

Car spray paint if thats the route you want to go. It gets on
everything, and must be done outside the house, but the finish quality
is pretty good if sprayed evenly.

I've had good results with ordinary liquid gloss paints, providing the
first coat is applied sparingly with a rag and left to dry for 24 hours.
Once you have the initial bond, you can brush a couple of more generous
coats. It's a long process though.


NT

On Sep 4, 6:28 pm, Clive wrote:
2. Rub the surfaces gently (with what?) to create a key for the
undercoat.

Very fine sandpaper, just enough to 'flat' any glossiness. I'd start
with 600 grit wet-or-dry. Fill ANY dings with filler first and sand
down with the rest.

3. Roller paint the doors with 2(?) coats of undercoat. Will that
"bond" to the door laminate or should I use some other form of
undercoat?

You need something to act as a primer, that sticks well to the
surface. Acrylic paints are good primers for plastics, they're used
for plastic car bumper.

4. Paint the doors with a fine roller. Should I use any "special" top
coat, say, "kitchen" paint? Should I spray the top coat with some kind
of matt polyutherane "varnish" to seal the paint and limit the
penetration of grease and stains into the new paint work?

I'd use something like Dulux 'Realife' Kitchen/Bathroom - soft sheen.
Small foam roller and paint in cool conditions, reasonably generous
coat. It's washable and also an acrylic so should be self priming on
laminates I think.

Also try asking on the Talk forum on the Screwfix website.

cheers,
Pete.




5. Have a new door cut from moisture resistant MDF and paint as above.
How do I get the holes for the hinges cut? Is there a special drill
bit for this?
6. Then I can finish with more modern handles.

Anything I have missed or will be a lot trickier than I have
thought? The reason for painting the doors is not just cost because
the painting will take time but that the wall cabinet doors are old
and very long and there isn't a modern equivalent of this size.

I think £35 per door from online stores for MDF blanks is criminal
when moisture resistant MDF is about £25 per 8 x 4 and I can have each
door cut for £1. I am not going the MDF replacement route because of
the possible tricky issue of cutting the holes for the hinges.

Thanks

Clive

Stuart Noble wrote:
wrote:
Steve wrote:
Clive wrote:

Hi,

I'm going to give my Mum's kitchen a bit of a "lift". The units are
fine, the doors are dated, the worktop is knackered.

I am having the worktops fitted by someone who has done it for me
before and he did it beautifully with great joints.

I am going to have a go at painting the doors. The doors are, say,
20 years old, only one is swelling. The doors have a chipboard /
fibreboard core with a "plastic" laminate coating. My approach is /
might be:

1. Clean doors thoroughly with dissolved Soda Crystals or Sugar Soap
to get rid of the grease.

boiling caustic soda solution. Insulating gloves of course.

Way OTT. Bicarbonate of soda, or washing soda if they're really greasy.

2. Rub the surfaces gently (with what?) to create a key for the
undercoat.

fine sandpaper?

Yes but a good quality, non-clogging type. 3M etc


Anything I have missed or will be a lot trickier than I have
thought? The reason for painting the doors is not just cost because
the painting will take time but that the wall cabinet doors are old
and very long and there isn't a modern equivalent of this size.
You can try painting them but don't expect too much.

Car spray paint if thats the route you want to go. It gets on
everything, and must be done outside the house, but the finish quality
is pretty good if sprayed evenly.

I've had good results with ordinary liquid gloss paints, providing the
first coat is applied sparingly with a rag and left to dry for 24 hours.
Once you have the initial bond, you can brush a couple of more generous
coats. It's a long process though.

How do you plan to get a shiny finish with no brush strokes using
a brush? I once painted a set of kitchen stuff with gloss when a
kid, and cant recommend it, unless your total budget for a refurb
is only a tenner, the finish really is knackered, and youre not fussy.

The other issue with household gloss is that it isnt really tough
enough to survive well.


NT

On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 10:28:37 -0700 someone who may be Clive
wrote this:-

I am going to have a go at painting the doors. The doors are, say,
20 years old, only one is swelling.

If you do want to do the best job of painting the doors then take
them off and paint them flat. This will give a far neater finish.




--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
wrote:
Steve wrote:
Clive wrote:

Hi,

I'm going to give my Mum's kitchen a bit of a "lift". The units are
fine, the doors are dated, the worktop is knackered.

I am having the worktops fitted by someone who has done it for me
before and he did it beautifully with great joints.

I am going to have a go at painting the doors. The doors are, say,
20 years old, only one is swelling. The doors have a chipboard /
fibreboard core with a "plastic" laminate coating. My approach is /
might be:

1. Clean doors thoroughly with dissolved Soda Crystals or Sugar Soap
to get rid of the grease.
boiling caustic soda solution. Insulating gloves of course.
Way OTT. Bicarbonate of soda, or washing soda if they're really greasy.
2. Rub the surfaces gently (with what?) to create a key for the
undercoat.
fine sandpaper?
Yes but a good quality, non-clogging type. 3M etc

Anything I have missed or will be a lot trickier than I have
thought? The reason for painting the doors is not just cost because
the painting will take time but that the wall cabinet doors are old
and very long and there isn't a modern equivalent of this size.
You can try painting them but don't expect too much.
Car spray paint if thats the route you want to go. It gets on
everything, and must be done outside the house, but the finish quality
is pretty good if sprayed evenly.
I've had good results with ordinary liquid gloss paints, providing the
first coat is applied sparingly with a rag and left to dry for 24 hours.
Once you have the initial bond, you can brush a couple of more generous
coats. It's a long process though.

How do you plan to get a shiny finish with no brush strokes using
a brush?

Liquid gloss takes a long time to dry so brushmarks shouldn't be an issue

I once painted a set of kitchen stuff with gloss when a
kid, and cant recommend it, unless your total budget for a refurb
is only a tenner, the finish really is knackered, and youre not fussy.

The other issue with household gloss is that it isnt really tough
enough to survive well.

Car paint is fine on metal, and possibly on mdf. On a beat up old
surface ordinary gloss might be more accommodating

On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 10:28:37 -0700 Clive wrote :
I am going to have a go at painting the doors. The doors are, say,
20 years old, only one is swelling. The doors have a chipboard /
fibreboard core with a "plastic" laminate coating. My approach is /
might be:

There is a special paint made for melamine which my mother used on some
kitchen unit doors to good effect. Ordinary gloss will - as others have
already said - probably look terrible.

If all the doors are standard widths and height it might be easier to
replace them all. B&Q invariably have one or other range on half price
at any particular time (e.g. 500mm beech effect doors currently £13).
You just need to drill four small holes in the carcass to take the
hinge screws. You can make this easy by buying a wall unit feature end
panel (£8 or so) and reducing its height. Then just clamp it against
the carcass side and drill straight through the hinge holes.

--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk

In message . com
wrote:

fine sandpaper?

Yes but a good quality, non-clogging type. 3M etc

If sanded down wet it will not clog, wet-or-dry should do the job.

I've had good results with ordinary liquid gloss paints, providing the
first coat is applied sparingly with a rag and left to dry for 24 hours.
Once you have the initial bond, you can brush a couple of more generous
coats. It's a long process though.

You'll never get a decent finish using household gloss including Dulux.

How do you plan to get a shiny finish with no brush strokes using
a brush? I once painted a set of kitchen stuff with gloss when a
kid, and cant recommend it, unless your total budget for a refurb
is only a tenner, the finish really is knackered, and youre not fussy.

You won't get brush strokes if you use a coach paint.

The other issue with household gloss is that it isnt really tough
enough to survive well.

Most modern synthetic paints are now Alkyd resin based which being
extremely tough and will hold up very well, but I'd avoid using
Polyurethane and any type of household gloss if you really want a
brush-mark free finish.

Stephen.





--
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce

In message
David Hansen wrote:

On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 10:28:37 -0700 someone who may be Clive
wrote this:-

I am going to have a go at painting the doors. The doors are, say, 20
years old, only one is swelling.

If you do want to do the best job of painting the doors then take
them off and paint them flat. This will give a far neater finish.

But the doors would then be more susceptible to contamination (dust
settling etc), vertically painted panels always turn out cleaner than
horizontal panels.

Stephen.





--
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce

On Wed, 05 Sep 2007 22:24:31 +0100 someone who may be Stephen Hull
wrote this:-

If you do want to do the best job of painting the doors then take
them off and paint them flat. This will give a far neater finish.

But the doors would then be more susceptible to contamination (dust
settling etc), vertically painted panels always turn out cleaner than
horizontal panels.

Hopefully the doors will be painted in a largely dust free house,
rather then in a relatively dusty woodworking shop.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

In message
David Hansen wrote:

On Wed, 05 Sep 2007 22:24:31 +0100 someone who may be Stephen Hull
wrote this:-

If you do want to do the best job of painting the doors then take
them off and paint them flat. This will give a far neater finish.

But the doors would then be more susceptible to contamination (dust
settling etc), vertically painted panels always turn out cleaner than
horizontal panels.

Hopefully the doors will be painted in a largely dust free house,
rather then in a relatively dusty woodworking shop.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

The*room of a house may offer better protection from dust than a
woodworking shop, but will it offer enough?

You could stand your doors in the bath leaning slightly inward to
protect the painted face but there's usually too much dust floating
around the average house, simply walking around the room can cause
dust to circulate that will eventually settle on horizontal surfaces.


Stephen.


--
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce