On Sep 4, 6:28 pm, Clive wrote:
2. Rub the surfaces gently (with what?) to create a key for the
undercoat.

Very fine sandpaper, just enough to 'flat' any glossiness. I'd start
with 600 grit wet-or-dry. Fill ANY dings with filler first and sand
down with the rest.

3. Roller paint the doors with 2(?) coats of undercoat. Will that
"bond" to the door laminate or should I use some other form of
undercoat?

You need something to act as a primer, that sticks well to the
surface. Acrylic paints are good primers for plastics, they're used
for plastic car bumper.

4. Paint the doors with a fine roller. Should I use any "special" top
coat, say, "kitchen" paint? Should I spray the top coat with some kind
of matt polyutherane "varnish" to seal the paint and limit the
penetration of grease and stains into the new paint work?

I'd use something like Dulux 'Realife' Kitchen/Bathroom - soft sheen.
Small foam roller and paint in cool conditions, reasonably generous
coat. It's washable and also an acrylic so should be self priming on
laminates I think.

Also try asking on the Talk forum on the Screwfix website.

cheers,
Pete.




5. Have a new door cut from moisture resistant MDF and paint as above.
How do I get the holes for the hinges cut? Is there a special drill
bit for this?
6. Then I can finish with more modern handles.

Anything I have missed or will be a lot trickier than I have
thought? The reason for painting the doors is not just cost because
the painting will take time but that the wall cabinet doors are old
and very long and there isn't a modern equivalent of this size.

I think £35 per door from online stores for MDF blanks is criminal
when moisture resistant MDF is about £25 per 8 x 4 and I can have each
door cut for £1. I am not going the MDF replacement route because of
the possible tricky issue of cutting the holes for the hinges.

Thanks

Clive