[Staffbull]

Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers

[Stuart Noble]

Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers


Just keep them for decoration and chop your food on a proper plastic
chopping board that you can actually wash

[LSR]

Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers

Liquid paraffin BP (from a pharmacist).
--
LSR

[Dave Baker]

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers


Just keep them for decoration and chop your food on a proper plastic
chopping board that you can actually wash

I recall some research from several years ago that wooden chopping boards
actually kept bacteria in check to a much greater degree than plastic ones.
--
Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines

[Robin]

Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into
chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?
I am puzzled: just for my education, is any seal going to withstand
being chopped? Or is it more a case of something which soaks into the
wood to provide a (relatvely thick) barrier to mositure?
Just keep them for decoration and chop your food on a proper plastic
chopping board that you can actually wash

I recall some research from several years ago that wooden chopping
boards actually kept bacteria in check to a much greater degree than
plastic ones.

Quite a lot of conflicting evidence is cited
http://whatscookingamerica.net/Cutti...s/AllAbout.htm

--
Robin

[Staffbull]

On 27 Jul, 15:04, "Dave Baker" wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message

...

Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers

Just keep them for decoration and chop your food on a proper plastic
chopping board that you can actually wash

I recall some research from several years ago that wooden chopping boards
actually kept bacteria in check to a much greater degree than plastic ones.
--
Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines

How many people have seen a plastic butchers block? we've been eating
food prepared off wooden surfaces for years !!,

[Stuart Noble]

Dave Baker wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers

Just keep them for decoration and chop your food on a proper plastic
chopping board that you can actually wash

I recall some research from several years ago that wooden chopping boards
actually kept bacteria in check to a much greater degree than plastic ones.

There's research somewhere to suggest just about anything. I don't think
you'll find too many wooden chopping boards in commercial kitchens these
days.

[Mary Fisher]

"Robin" pleaseaskinthegroup@becauseIhavegotfedupwithspama ndstuff.co.ru
wrote in message k...
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?
I am puzzled: just for my education, is any seal going to withstand being
chopped? Or is it more a case of something which soaks into the wood to
provide a (relatvely thick) barrier to mositure?

There's no benefit in sealing and oak - or any other timber - chopping
board. Use it, wash it, dry it and use it again.

The only caveat is to keep the side used for onions and garlic apart from
cutting other things on it. I've marked (by carving) each side of my main
chopping board with Veg and Meat. I have another for fruit/cheese and others
for bread cutting, dough stretching etc. They're all timber and none is
sealed. I wouldn't use plastic or glass for love nor money.

Just keep them for decoration and chop your food on a proper plastic
chopping board that you can actually wash

Timber boards wash very well but why on Earth would you keep them for
decoration?

Mary

[Stuart B]

On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 13:40:01 -0000, Staffbull
wrote:

Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers

If you Google for Chopping Board Oil there are some products made for
that ..

[TMC]

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
Dave Baker wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers

Just keep them for decoration and chop your food on a proper plastic
chopping board that you can actually wash

I recall some research from several years ago that wooden chopping boards
actually kept bacteria in check to a much greater degree than plastic
ones.

There's research somewhere to suggest just about anything. I don't think
you'll find too many wooden chopping boards in commercial kitchens these
days.

Talking crap Stuart

Have checked with the chefs

the reason wooden blocks went out of commercial kitchens was because EHO
brought in colour coding for different foodstuffs for boards and knives.
This required so much equipment and monitoring that it was never fully
implemented but the kitchens ended up with an excess of plastic boards

There was never a serious issue of bacteria retention it was purely a
logistic problem of getting the boards dry after cleaning ready for the next
use

Butchers still use wooden blocks

Wooden blocks in kitchens can't be that much of an issue as in modern
kitchens the whole worktop area is often made of wood

Tony

[Pete C]

On Jul 27, 2:40 pm, Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers

Pure tung oil is one:

http://www.google.com/search?q=oak+chopping+board+tung+oil

cheers,
Pete.

[EricP]

On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 13:40:01 -0000, Staffbull
wrote:

Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers

Nothing. You don't treat chopping boards

[Brian G]

Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers

Staffbull,

I wouldn't use oak as a chopping board because of the tannic acid it
contains (that's why iron fittings and screws go black when used on it) - I
would suggest that a better material may well be sycamore.

Brian G

[Stephen Howard]

On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 13:40:01 -0000, Staffbull
wrote:

Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

No need to seal them. Just wipe them over after use with a clean cloth
soaked in a mild detergent solution. Note the 'clean' is the
key...avoid using the manky old J-Cloth that's been sitting by the
sink for the last couple of days.

If you're paranoid about germs you can finish up with a squirt of
Dettox...but I never bother, and nor did my mum or her mum - and
no-one seems to have come to any harm ( twitch ).

What's important is to allow the board to dry slowly and naturally -
don't force it ( having a couple of boards is useful...three is ideal
if you want to keep one just for onions etc. ).
Splitting is sometimes a problem, but this tends to affect thinner
boards ( I'm assuming your oak is standard work-surface thickness ).
You might find it beneficial to ensure the edges of the board are
slightly rounded.
Once a board is split it's useless.

You can buy or make up oils for treating the boards, but I tend to
save it for use on tables and wooden salad bowls ( which need
something to protect the wood from the acidity of the vinegar ). A
quick wipe over with olive oil from time to time will work just as
well.

Regards.



--
Stephen Howard - Woodwind repairs & period restorations
www.shwoodwind.co.uk
Emails to: showard{whoisat}shwoodwind{dot}co{dot}uk

[Stuart B]

On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 17:07:49 +0100, "Brian G"
wrote:

Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers

Staffbull,

I wouldn't use oak as a chopping board because of the tannic acid it
contains (that's why iron fittings and screws go black when used on it) - I
would suggest that a better material may well be sycamore.

Brian G


How about beech ?

[Stephen Howard]

On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 17:07:49 +0100, "Brian G"
wrote:

Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?


I wouldn't use oak as a chopping board because of the tannic acid it
contains (that's why iron fittings and screws go black when used on it) - I
would suggest that a better material may well be sycamore.

I wouldn't think this will be a problem unless food is left on the
board for a significant length of time - and the more the board is
wiped the less likely any risk of tannins leaching onto the food.
In fact, it might be the case that the tannins make the board
especially resistant to bacteria.

In any event, oak boards are quite common - so I'd guess it's not a
significant issue.

I use beech myself, laminated - but only because a kitchen fitter was
daft enough to check a load of hefty offcuts into a skip as I was
passing.

Regards,



--
Stephen Howard - Woodwind repairs & period restorations
www.shwoodwind.co.uk
Emails to: showard{whoisat}shwoodwind{dot}co{dot}uk

[ajp]

LSR wrote:

Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers

Liquid paraffin BP (from a pharmacist).

Yep - it's a mineral oil so it won't go rancid, it's flavourless and it's a
pharmaceutical ingredient that's non-toxic (unless of course you drink it
by the gallon)!

Alan
--
email =~ s/nospam/fudokai/

[The Natural Philosopher]

Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers

I would say absolutely nothing, or olive oil

[The Natural Philosopher]

Brian G wrote:
Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers

Staffbull,

I wouldn't use oak as a chopping board because of the tannic acid it
contains (that's why iron fittings and screws go black when used on it) - I
would suggest that a better material may well be sycamore.

Brian G


Beech end grain is good.

We have a really nice elm one...

Ok is OK. The tannic acid is not in greaat quantities and is not
particularly harmful. Far more in a cup of tea...

[The Natural Philosopher]

Stephen Howard wrote:
On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 13:40:01 -0000, Staffbull
wrote:

Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

No need to seal them. Just wipe them over after use with a clean cloth
soaked in a mild detergent solution. Note the 'clean' is the
key...avoid using the manky old J-Cloth that's been sitting by the
sink for the last couple of days.

If you're paranoid about germs you can finish up with a squirt of
Dettox...but I never bother, and nor did my mum or her mum - and
no-one seems to have come to any harm ( twitch ).


I use bleach on a kitchen table that we often chop straight onto - nasty
old pine thing, but it serves.

Then wash throughly and leave, ir sometimes wipe a bit of olive oil over..

What's important is to allow the board to dry slowly and naturally -
don't force it ( having a couple of boards is useful...three is ideal
if you want to keep one just for onions etc. ).
Splitting is sometimes a problem, but this tends to affect thinner
boards ( I'm assuming your oak is standard work-surface thickness ).
You might find it beneficial to ensure the edges of the board are
slightly rounded.
Once a board is split it's useless.

Plane the edges and use epoxy and clamps to repair. Works FINE.


You can buy or make up oils for treating the boards, but I tend to
save it for use on tables and wooden salad bowls ( which need
something to protect the wood from the acidity of the vinegar ). A
quick wipe over with olive oil from time to time will work just as
well.

Regards.

[Stuart Noble]

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers

I would say absolutely nothing, or olive oil

Nothing is ok, but vegetable oils go rancid in varying degrees.
Plastic is the perfect material for the job but maybe one needs to hug a
wooden one

[Staffbull]

On 27 Jul, 14:40, Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers


Thanks for all the answers, I'll try out the liquid parrafin I think,
I have enough to worktop to make around a dozen good sized boards!!
but I'm trying to think of another use for the longest piece as its
1.5m and it would be a shame to cut that to bits !! - first thought is
a kitchen trolley/table thingy on castors !!

[Mary Fisher]

"Brian G" wrote in message
...
Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers

Staffbull,

I wouldn't use oak as a chopping board because of the tannic acid it

Oh come on!

contains (that's why iron fittings and screws go black when used on it) -
I would suggest that a better material may well be sycamore.

All the maples are much softer than oak, I have one which has almost gone
through in the middle from chopping on both sides. The oak one is as new.

Mary

[dennis@home]

"TMC" wrote in message
...


Wooden blocks in kitchens can't be that much of an issue as in modern
kitchens the whole worktop area is often made of wood


Mostly wood with a plastic coating though.

[Brian G]

Stuart B wrote:
On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 17:07:49 +0100, "Brian G"
wrote:

Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into
chopping board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to
seal them with?

cheers

Staffbull,

I wouldn't use oak as a chopping board because of the tannic acid it
contains (that's why iron fittings and screws go black when used on
it) - I would suggest that a better material may well be sycamore.

Brian G


How about beech ?

Just as good and if possible (if you have the time) make the board so that
the cutting area is all end grain.

The reason: end grain tends to 'close' back up after cutting rather than
leaving grooves in the surface thus extending the life of the board - aka
the old butchers block.

Brian G

[Brian G]

Mary Fisher wrote:
"Brian G" wrote in message
...
Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into
chopping board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to
seal them with?

cheers

Staffbull,

I wouldn't use oak as a chopping board because of the tannic acid it

Oh come on!

Mary, it's a fact - and as 'country girl' should know that - oak (especially
English oak) is crammed full of tannic acid. Knock an iron or mild steel
nail into a piece and come back after a while and you'll find it a nice dark
shade.

contains (that's why iron fittings and screws go black when used on
it) - I would suggest that a better material may well be sycamore.

All the maples are much softer than oak, I have one which has almost
gone through in the middle from chopping on both sides. The oak one
is as new.

I'd lay you odds that the softer boards are not made with the end grain as
the cutting area?

With regards to using the oak one, then that's a matter of choice - but for
myself, after using different species of oak throughout the years - it's a
choice that I wouldn't make.

Brian G

[Brian G]

Staffbull wrote:
On 27 Jul, 14:40, Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into
chopping board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to
seal them with?

cheers


Thanks for all the answers, I'll try out the liquid parrafin I think,
I have enough to worktop to make around a dozen good sized boards!!
but I'm trying to think of another use for the longest piece as its
1.5m and it would be a shame to cut that to bits !! - first thought is
a kitchen trolley/table thingy on castors !!

Now that's a better use for it - and to get the best and 'deepest' finish,
have a read of a good French polishing book from the library on how to fill
the grain and polish the wood rather than using the polyurethane finishes -
it really is well worth the effort (as long as you have the time and
patience).


Brian G

[Julian]

"Brian G" wrote in message
...
Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers

Staffbull,

I wouldn't use oak as a chopping board because of the tannic acid it
contains

Good point. I'd also be inclined to not drink a cup of tea for the same
reason :-)

Julian.

[Stephen Howard]

On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 20:47:31 +0100, "Brian G"
wrote:

Staffbull wrote:


Thanks for all the answers, I'll try out the liquid parrafin I think,
I have enough to worktop to make around a dozen good sized boards!!
but I'm trying to think of another use for the longest piece as its
1.5m and it would be a shame to cut that to bits !! - first thought is
a kitchen trolley/table thingy on castors !!

Now that's a better use for it - and to get the best and 'deepest' finish,
have a read of a good French polishing book from the library on how to fill
the grain and polish the wood rather than using the polyurethane finishes -
it really is well worth the effort (as long as you have the time and
patience).


French polish for a kitchen trolley/table thingy?
Asking for trouble, that is.
An oil finish would be far more practical, and retain the wood's
natural lustre.

Regards,



--
Stephen Howard - Woodwind repairs & period restorations
http://www.shwoodwind.co.uk
Emails to: showard{who is at}shwoodwind{dot}co{dot}uk

[Stephen Howard]

On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 17:58:15 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers

I would say absolutely nothing, or olive oil

Nothing is ok, but vegetable oils go rancid in varying degrees.
Plastic is the perfect material for the job but maybe one needs to hug a
wooden one

Rancid oil is only going to be a problem if you coat the board
generously with oil and leave it to stand for a lengthy period of
time. Six months to a year ought to do it, perhaps longer depending on
the oil used. A re-application from time to time will be necessary.


Regards,



--
Stephen Howard - Woodwind repairs & period restorations
http://www.shwoodwind.co.uk
Emails to: showard{who is at}shwoodwind{dot}co{dot}uk

[The Natural Philosopher]

Brian G wrote:
Mary Fisher wrote:
"Brian G" wrote in message
...
Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into
chopping board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to
seal them with?

cheers
Staffbull,

I wouldn't use oak as a chopping board because of the tannic acid it
Oh come on!

Mary, it's a fact - and as 'country girl' should know that - oak (especially
English oak) is crammed full of tannic acid. Knock an iron or mild steel
nail into a piece and come back after a while and you'll find it a nice dark
shade.


Now dip it in coke or a cup of tea...or vinegar..or a lemon..

Get real. if you drink tea you probably have a stomach that will digest
an iron nail in a few hours.;. ;-)

[The Natural Philosopher]

Stephen Howard wrote:
On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 17:58:15 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into chopping
board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to seal them
with?

cheers

I would say absolutely nothing, or olive oil
Nothing is ok, but vegetable oils go rancid in varying degrees.
Plastic is the perfect material for the job but maybe one needs to hug a
wooden one

Rancid oil is only going to be a problem if you coat the board
generously with oil and leave it to stand for a lengthy period of
time. Six months to a year ought to do it, perhaps longer depending on
the oil used. A re-application from time to time will be necessary.


Regards,



Indeed. wash it with bleach every week and re-oil.

[Chris]

"dennis@home" wrote in news:f8dfed$bul$1
@news.datemas.de:


"TMC" wrote in message
...


Wooden blocks in kitchens can't be that much of an issue as in modern
kitchens the whole worktop area is often made of wood

I used to work for as a trainee butcher and would have to clean the
butchers block and it involved using serius scrubbing with a wire brush
and Ajax

As to treating a cutting board I have allways used olive oil rubbed in
periodically.

Chris

[Mary Fisher]

"Chris" wrote in message
. 254...
"dennis@home" wrote in news:f8dfed$bul$1
@news.datemas.de:


"TMC" wrote in message
...


Wooden blocks in kitchens can't be that much of an issue as in modern
kitchens the whole worktop area is often made of wood

I used to work for as a trainee butcher and would have to clean the
butchers block and it involved using serius scrubbing with a wire brush
and Ajax

As to treating a cutting board I have allways used olive oil rubbed in
periodically.

Chris

It obviously washes or wears off or you'd notice a smell. Vegetable oils go
rancid in contact with air.

Mary

[Mary Fisher]

"Brian G" wrote in message
...
Mary Fisher wrote:
"Brian G" wrote in message
...
Staffbull wrote:
Had some lengths of oak worktop and I intend to cut them into
chopping board sizes, they are untreated, what would be the best to
seal them with?

cheers

Staffbull,

I wouldn't use oak as a chopping board because of the tannic acid it

Oh come on!

Mary, it's a fact - and as 'country girl' should know that - oak
(especially English oak) is crammed full of tannic acid. Knock an iron or
mild steel nail into a piece and come back after a while and you'll find
it a nice dark shade.

I know that (not that I'm a country woman and haven't been a girl for
decades) but it's not going to affect any food.

Your nail will go black if you leave it in a cup of tea, doesn't stop you
drinking tea - Or most people anyway.

contains (that's why iron fittings and screws go black when used on
it) - I would suggest that a better material may well be sycamore.

All the maples are much softer than oak, I have one which has almost
gone through in the middle from chopping on both sides. The oak one
is as new.

I'd lay you odds that the softer boards are not made with the end grain as
the cutting area?

None of my boards is, it's not easy getting a 3/4" board with end grain
which stays together :-)

And if you're worried about contamination, end grain absorbs more blood,
juices etc. than long grain and is much more difficult to clean, butchers
spend ages cleaning them.

With regards to using the oak one, then that's a matter of choice - but
for myself, after using different species of oak throughout the years -
it's a choice that I wouldn't make.

I have one in oak and I'm neither sorry nor affected by it.

Mary

[Mary Fisher]

"Owain" wrote in message
...
Staffbull wrote:
Thanks for all the answers, I'll try out the liquid parrafin I think,
I have enough to worktop to make around a dozen good sized boards!!
but I'm trying to think of another use for the longest piece as its
1.5m and it would be a shame to cut that to bits !! - first thought is
a kitchen trolley/table thingy on castors !!

Bagatelle or shove ha'penny board game?

Carve an improving motto into it and hang it above the bed?

Where you wouldn't see it!

Mary

Owain

[Mary Fisher]

"Owain" wrote in message
...
Stuart Noble wrote:
Plastic is the perfect material for the job but maybe one needs to hug a
wooden one

Plastic ones melt too easily.

You've hugged plastic until it melts?

:-)

I don't think plastic is perfect for many reasons but the OP has some wood
which he wants to use, there's no point in suggesting plastic to him.

Mary

[Stephen Howard]

On Sat, 28 Jul 2007 13:06:36 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


"Owain" wrote in message
.. .
Staffbull wrote:
Thanks for all the answers, I'll try out the liquid parrafin I think,
I have enough to worktop to make around a dozen good sized boards!!
but I'm trying to think of another use for the longest piece as its
1.5m and it would be a shame to cut that to bits !! - first thought is
a kitchen trolley/table thingy on castors !!

Bagatelle or shove ha'penny board game?

Carve an improving motto into it and hang it above the bed?

Where you wouldn't see it!

But, like piles...you'd certainly know it was there...

Regards,



--
Stephen Howard - Woodwind repairs & period restorations
www.shwoodwind.co.uk
Emails to: showard{whoisat}shwoodwind{dot}co{dot}uk

[Mary Fisher]

"Stephen Howard" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 28 Jul 2007 13:06:36 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


"Owain" wrote in message
. ..
Staffbull wrote:
Thanks for all the answers, I'll try out the liquid parrafin I think,
I have enough to worktop to make around a dozen good sized boards!!
but I'm trying to think of another use for the longest piece as its
1.5m and it would be a shame to cut that to bits !! - first thought is
a kitchen trolley/table thingy on castors !!

Bagatelle or shove ha'penny board game?

Carve an improving motto into it and hang it above the bed?

Where you wouldn't see it!

But, like piles...you'd certainly know it was there...

I bow to your greater experience :-)

Mary

[Stephen Howard]

On Sat, 28 Jul 2007 14:08:42 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


"Stephen Howard" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 28 Jul 2007 13:06:36 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


"Owain" wrote in message
.. .
Staffbull wrote:
Thanks for all the answers, I'll try out the liquid parrafin I think,
I have enough to worktop to make around a dozen good sized boards!!
but I'm trying to think of another use for the longest piece as its
1.5m and it would be a shame to cut that to bits !! - first thought is
a kitchen trolley/table thingy on castors !!

Bagatelle or shove ha'penny board game?

Carve an improving motto into it and hang it above the bed?

Where you wouldn't see it!

But, like piles...you'd certainly know it was there...

I bow to your greater experience :-)

I'll pass on your compliments to my telly the next time "I've got an
embarrassing illness that I wouldn't dare tell anyone about...except
when there's the prospect of me and my insert body part here being
shown to 5+ million viewers" is on.

Regards,



--
Stephen Howard - Woodwind repairs & period restorations
www.shwoodwind.co.uk
Emails to: showard{whoisat}shwoodwind{dot}co{dot}uk