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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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I have a Netaheat profile 60e
Symptoms: No main burn No pilot light Fan is running no 'sparking sound' to be heard The 'cutout' (?) button on the bottom is not out (in the past, the boiler has occasionally cut out, and this button pops out. Pushing and holding it in relights the pilot, and then the main burn) Any ideas?? Neal |
#2
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On 26 Feb, 19:51, "Neal" wrote:
I have a Netaheat profile 60e Symptoms: No main burn No pilot light Fan is running no 'sparking sound' to be heard The 'cutout' (?) button on the bottom is not out (in the past, the boiler has occasionally cut out, and this button pops out. Pushing and holding it in relights the pilot, and then the main burn) Any ideas?? Neal first thing you should look at is the air pressure switch as that is next in sequence, check for split pipes or blocked conections, hope that helps pete |
#3
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In message .com, Neal
writes I have a Netaheat profile 60e Symptoms: No main burn No pilot light Fan is running no 'sparking sound' to be heard The 'cutout' (?) button on the bottom is not out (in the past, the boiler has occasionally cut out, and this button pops out. Pushing and holding it in relights the pilot, and then the main burn) Is the fan transferring the air pressure switch from normally closed to normally open ? If the APS isn't changing state, then it won't progress to opening the pilot and sparking -- geoff |
#4
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On Feb 26, 9:48 pm, raden wrote:
In message .com, Neal writesI have a Netaheat profile 60e Symptoms: No main burn No pilot light Fan is running no 'sparking sound' to be heard The 'cutout' (?) button on the bottom is not out (in the past, the boiler has occasionally cut out, and this button pops out. Pushing and holding it in relights the pilot, and then the main burn) Is the fan transferring the air pressure switch from normally closed to normally open ? If the APS isn't changing state, then it won't progress to opening the pilot and sparking -- geoff When I switch it on, and the fan sarts up, there is a delay, and then a click of sorts. - I think this is the air pressure switch tripping? But then - nothing |
#5
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On 27 Feb, 11:11, "Neal" wrote:
On Feb 26, 9:48 pm, raden wrote: In message .com, Neal writesI have a Netaheat profile 60e Symptoms: No main burn No pilot light Fan is running no 'sparking sound' to be heard The 'cutout' (?) button on the bottom is not out (in the past, the boiler has occasionally cut out, and this button pops out. Pushing and holding it in relights the pilot, and then the main burn) Is the fan transferring the air pressure switch from normally closed to normally open ? If the APS isn't changing state, then it won't progress to opening the pilot and sparking -- geoff When I switch it on, and the fan sarts up, there is a delay, and then a click of sorts. - I think this is the air pressure switch tripping? But then - nothing |
#6
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there was a problem with the early models that the spark gap opened
up due to the groung post (bent piece of metal ) moving away from the spark electrode, there should be about 3.5 mm gap try that, pete |
#7
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On Tue, 27 Feb 2007 03:11:18 -0800, Neal wrote:
On Feb 26, 9:48 pm, raden wrote: In message .com, Neal writesI have a Netaheat profile 60e Symptoms: No main burn No pilot light Fan is running no 'sparking sound' to be heard The 'cutout' (?) button on the bottom is not out (in the past, the boiler has occasionally cut out, and this button pops out. Pushing and holding it in relights the pilot, and then the main burn) Is the fan transferring the air pressure switch from normally closed to normally open ? If the APS isn't changing state, then it won't progress to opening the pilot and sparking -- geoff When I switch it on, and the fan sarts up, there is a delay, and then a click of sorts. - I think this is the air pressure switch tripping? But then - nothing Th "click of sorts" could be the APS and PCB relay moving. It might also be the click of the pilot gas valve which would happen 'simultaneously' with those clicks. Since there is no sparking the chances are that the spark lead is shorted or the spark generator (PCB module) is kaput. You might be able to get another clue by seeing if there is any smell of gas from the flue terminal - this would show that the pilot gas valve has opened. I think the correct sounds should be Whirr (the fan) : 5-10 seconds (there are flow restrictors in the APS tubes) : tick (APS switch)+click (PCB relay)+chonk(pilot gv) : tick-tick-tick (HT sparker): silence a second or so (pilot lit but flame sense making up it's mind) : CHONK (main GV) : hiss (gas flowing) : woomph (gas ignites). HTH -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards |
#8
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In message .com, Neal
writes On Feb 26, 9:48 pm, raden wrote: In message .com, Neal writesI have a Netaheat profile 60e Symptoms: No main burn No pilot light Fan is running no 'sparking sound' to be heard The 'cutout' (?) button on the bottom is not out (in the past, the boiler has occasionally cut out, and this button pops out. Pushing and holding it in relights the pilot, and then the main burn) Is the fan transferring the air pressure switch from normally closed to normally open ? If the APS isn't changing state, then it won't progress to opening the pilot and sparking -- geoff When I switch it on, and the fan sarts up, there is a delay, and then a click of sorts. - I think this is the air pressure switch tripping? But then - nothing Ah - there are two clicks one from the APS and the other from a relay on the pcb You've reached the stage where it is either necessary to measure something or be bold and operate the APS manually. I don't think that the latter option is a good idea if you don't understand what you're doing. To perform the former also requires you to be competent to make electrical measurements -- geoff |
#9
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In message .com,
gasman pete writes there was a problem with the early models that the spark gap opened up due to the groung post (bent piece of metal ) moving away from the spark electrode, there should be about 3.5 mm gap try that, pete Nah - I don't think so you'd still hear the spark discharging somewhere, even if not at the electrode. There is a spark gap on the back of the pcb just for that purpose -- geoff |
#10
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In message , Ed Sirett
writes When I switch it on, and the fan sarts up, there is a delay, and then a click of sorts. - I think this is the air pressure switch tripping? But then - nothing Th "click of sorts" could be the APS and PCB relay moving. It might also be the click of the pilot gas valve which would happen 'simultaneously' with those clicks. Since there is no sparking the chances are that the spark lead is shorted No - you'd still hear the spark gap on the primary discharging, it's just that it's drowned out by the secondary spark during normal operation BTW, did an Indian lady phone you today ? I took the liberty of giving her your phone number -- geoff |
#11
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On 27 Feb, 19:30, Ed Sirett wrote:
On Tue, 27 Feb 2007 03:11:18 -0800, Neal wrote: On Feb 26, 9:48 pm, raden wrote: In message .com, Neal writesI have a Netaheat profile 60e Symptoms: No main burn No pilot light Fan is running no 'sparking sound' to be heard The 'cutout' (?) button on the bottom is not out (in the past, the boiler has occasionally cut out, and this button pops out. Pushing and holding it in relights the pilot, and then the main burn) Is the fan transferring the air pressure switch from normally closed to normally open ? If the APS isn't changing state, then it won't progress to opening the pilot and sparking -- geoff When I switch it on, and the fan sarts up, there is a delay, and then a click of sorts. - I think this is the air pressure switch tripping? But then - nothing Th "click of sorts" could be the APS and PCB relay moving. It might also be the click of the pilot gas valve which would happen 'simultaneously' with those clicks. Since there is no sparking the chances are that the spark lead is shorted or the spark generator (PCB module) is kaput. You might be able to get another clue by seeing if there is any smell of gas from the flue terminal - this would show that the pilot gas valve has opened. I think the correct sounds should be Whirr (the fan) : 5-10 seconds (there are flow restrictors in the APS tubes) : tick (APS switch)+click (PCB relay)+chonk(pilot gv) : tick-tick-tick (HT sparker): silence a second or so (pilot lit but flame sense making up it's mind) : CHONK (main GV) : hiss (gas flowing) : woomph (gas ignites). HTH -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is athttp://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQhttp://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html Choosing a Boiler FAQhttp://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html Gas Fitting Standards Docs hehttp://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards Thanks All the answers have been useful, but I vote this the most useful to me who is not quite sure of what is going on. From this I strongly suspect it is my PCB. After the fan starts, I am hearing a sound more like a "chonk", which suggest from the above the pilot valvle IS opening. But then no sparks I also think I can smell a whiff of gas in the flue. I think I have reached the limit of my knowledge, so I have a guy coming this afternoon (name found in littlegreenbook.co.uk- wish me luck) I have told him I strongly the suspect the PCB, so he has agreed to try and bring a re[placement with him... |
#12
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In message .com, Neal
writes All the answers have been useful, but I vote this the most useful to me who is not quite sure of what is going on. From this I strongly suspect it is my PCB. After the fan starts, I am hearing a sound more like a "chonk", which suggest from the above the pilot valvle IS opening. But then no sparks I also think I can smell a whiff of gas in the flue. I think I have reached the limit of my knowledge, so I have a guy coming this afternoon (name found in littlegreenbook.co.uk- wish me luck) I have told him I strongly the suspect the PCB, so he has agreed to try and bring a re[placement with him... I take it, you've seen my site www.cetltd.com -- geoff |
#13
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On 28 Feb, 20:15, raden wrote:
In message .com, Neal writesAll the answers have been useful, but I vote this the most useful to me who is not quite sure of what is going on. From this I strongly suspect it is my PCB. After the fan starts, I am hearing a sound more like a "chonk", which suggest from the above the pilot valvle IS opening. But then no sparks I also think I can smell a whiff of gas in the flue. I think I have reached the limit of my knowledge, so I have a guy coming this afternoon (name found in littlegreenbook.co.uk- wish me luck) I have told him I strongly the suspect the PCB, so he has agreed to try and bring a re[placement with him... I take it, you've seen my site www.cetltd.com -- geoff Oddly enough, I just found your site from a link on the Fool.co.uk site Turns out it was the air pressure switch after all. It had stuck A knock, and it worked again....untill yesterday. Another knock then and it worked...Until this morning This morning: the fan has packed in. I feel like the the dutch boy with his thumb So, I am planning to get a new boiler (old one is clearly dying) But in the meantime (my friendly plumber is on holiday) I need a quick fix (2 small children....) So Geoff, expect a call in the morning for a ("new") fan Neal |
#14
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In message .com, Neal
writes On 28 Feb, 20:15, raden wrote: In message .com, Neal writesAll the answers have been useful, but I vote this the most useful to me who is not quite sure of what is going on. From this I strongly suspect it is my PCB. After the fan starts, I am hearing a sound more like a "chonk", which suggest from the above the pilot valvle IS opening. But then no sparks I also think I can smell a whiff of gas in the flue. I think I have reached the limit of my knowledge, so I have a guy coming this afternoon (name found in littlegreenbook.co.uk- wish me luck) I have told him I strongly the suspect the PCB, so he has agreed to try and bring a re[placement with him... I take it, you've seen my site www.cetltd.com -- geoff Oddly enough, I just found your site from a link on the Fool.co.uk site Turns out it was the air pressure switch after all. It had stuck A knock, and it worked again....untill yesterday. Another knock then and it worked...Until this morning This morning: the fan has packed in. I feel like the the dutch boy with his thumb So, I am planning to get a new boiler (old one is clearly dying) But in the meantime (my friendly plumber is on holiday) I need a quick fix (2 small children....) So Geoff, expect a call in the morning for a ("new") fan If the APS is knackered, it will not bring on the fan It needs a good short circuit between the normally closed and common on the APS to allow the fan to work I'm not sure that your "clearly dying" diagnosis is necessarily anywhere close to the mark I'm not sure of the price of an APS, but added to £75 ++ for a fan AND pcb would be far less than the cost of replacing the boiler at £1500 or more -- geoff |
#15
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On Sun, 04 Mar 2007 18:52:11 +0000, raden wrote:
In message .com, Neal writes On 28 Feb, 20:15, raden wrote: In message .com, Neal writesAll the answers have been useful, but I vote this the most useful to me who is not quite sure of what is going on. From this I strongly suspect it is my PCB. After the fan starts, I am hearing a sound more like a "chonk", which suggest from the above the pilot valvle IS opening. But then no sparks I also think I can smell a whiff of gas in the flue. I think I have reached the limit of my knowledge, so I have a guy coming this afternoon (name found in littlegreenbook.co.uk- wish me luck) I have told him I strongly the suspect the PCB, so he has agreed to try and bring a re[placement with him... I take it, you've seen my site www.cetltd.com -- geoff Oddly enough, I just found your site from a link on the Fool.co.uk site Turns out it was the air pressure switch after all. It had stuck A knock, and it worked again....untill yesterday. Another knock then and it worked...Until this morning This morning: the fan has packed in. I feel like the the dutch boy with his thumb So, I am planning to get a new boiler (old one is clearly dying) But in the meantime (my friendly plumber is on holiday) I need a quick fix (2 small children....) So Geoff, expect a call in the morning for a ("new") fan If the APS is knackered, it will not bring on the fan It needs a good short circuit between the normally closed and common on the APS to allow the fan to work I'm not sure that your "clearly dying" diagnosis is necessarily anywhere close to the mark I'm not sure of the price of an APS, but added to £75 ++ for a fan AND pcb would be far less than the cost of replacing the boiler at £1500 or more It's not replacing the boiler that costs. It's upgrading the heating system to comply with Part L -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards |
#16
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In message , Ed Sirett
writes Oddly enough, I just found your site from a link on the Fool.co.uk site Turns out it was the air pressure switch after all. It had stuck A knock, and it worked again....untill yesterday. Another knock then and it worked...Until this morning This morning: the fan has packed in. I feel like the the dutch boy with his thumb So, I am planning to get a new boiler (old one is clearly dying) But in the meantime (my friendly plumber is on holiday) I need a quick fix (2 small children....) So Geoff, expect a call in the morning for a ("new") fan If the APS is knackered, it will not bring on the fan It needs a good short circuit between the normally closed and common on the APS to allow the fan to work I'm not sure that your "clearly dying" diagnosis is necessarily anywhere close to the mark I'm not sure of the price of an APS, but added to £75 ++ for a fan AND pcb would be far less than the cost of replacing the boiler at £1500 or more It's not replacing the boiler that costs. It's upgrading the heating system to comply with Part L Hence the £1500+ price tag ... -- geoff |
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