I need to repair/adjust level of some small areas of concrete floor in a
shed. It needs to be able to take foot traffic.

I'm given to understand that epoxy resin mortar is a good choice for this but
can't find any suppliers or more to the point on-line places to buy.

Has anyone used this stuff or knows where to obtain it?

thanks

On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 16:10:44 +0100, Andy Hall had
this to say:


I need to repair/adjust level of some small areas of concrete floor in a
shed. It needs to be able to take foot traffic.

I'm given to understand that epoxy resin mortar is a good choice for this but
can't find any suppliers or more to the point on-line places to buy.

Has anyone used this stuff or knows where to obtain it?

More than likely a decent BM will stock it.

--
Frank Erskine

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...

I need to repair/adjust level of some small areas of concrete floor in a
shed. It needs to be able to take foot traffic.

I'm given to understand that epoxy resin mortar is a good choice for this
but
can't find any suppliers or more to the point on-line places to buy.

Has anyone used this stuff or knows where to obtain it?

thanks



b and q, screwfix, etc.

Andy Hall wrote:

I need to repair/adjust level of some small areas of concrete floor in a
shed. It needs to be able to take foot traffic.

I'm given to understand that epoxy resin mortar is a good choice for this but
can't find any suppliers or more to the point on-line places to buy.

Has anyone used this stuff or knows where to obtain it?

thanks

screwfix, toolstation, thetoolbag etc. I've got to do the same and plan
to use building adhesive (no mo nails etc) and sand. Thatll be covered
before seeing feet though.


NT

Andy Hall wrote:
Has anyone used this stuff or knows where to obtain it?

You can get it in B&Qs (big ones anyway), next to the FAB, cement dye,
and stuff. I've only used it once, for repairing some cracks in a
Victorian window lintel. Horrible sticky stuff that earns the
reputation that epoxy tile grout doesn't deserve in terms of difficulty
of application, or rather smoothing off once applied. If you have any
other option, I'd use it, although it sure seemed tough an hour or two
later, and no sign of any re-emergent cracks are visible - so it seems
effective. Unless this is going to have to have heavy loads, I'd go for
a self-levelling compound instead.

On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 22:23:01 +0100, Bolted wrote
(in article ):

Andy Hall wrote:
Has anyone used this stuff or knows where to obtain it?

You can get it in B&Qs (big ones anyway), next to the FAB, cement dye,
and stuff. I've only used it once, for repairing some cracks in a
Victorian window lintel. Horrible sticky stuff that earns the
reputation that epoxy tile grout doesn't deserve in terms of difficulty
of application, or rather smoothing off once applied. If you have any
other option, I'd use it, although it sure seemed tough an hour or two
later, and no sign of any re-emergent cracks are visible - so it seems
effective. Unless this is going to have to have heavy loads, I'd go for
a self-levelling compound instead.

Thanks for that, I'll look for some. The area is going to have heavy
loads, so I do need something substantial.

Andy Hall wrote:
Thanks for that, I'll look for some. The area is going to have heavy
loads, so I do need something substantial.

Fair enough - use just one trowel in the whole process if you can, i.e.
use a stick or something disposable for mixing it, and mix it in
something which is disposable. You'll have fun cleaning the trowel
later - I wiped off as much as possible, and then let it set and sanded
it off - it was persistent stuff. I'd used a bucket trowel for mixing
and a couple for applying, which was a bad move. Might be cleverer to
find out what the right solvent is, of course.

On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 22:45:22 +0100, Bolted wrote
(in article ):

Andy Hall wrote:
Thanks for that, I'll look for some. The area is going to have heavy
loads, so I do need something substantial.

Fair enough - use just one trowel in the whole process if you can, i.e.
use a stick or something disposable for mixing it, and mix it in
something which is disposable. You'll have fun cleaning the trowel
later - I wiped off as much as possible, and then let it set and sanded
it off - it was persistent stuff. I'd used a bucket trowel for mixing
and a couple for applying, which was a bad move. Might be cleverer to
find out what the right solvent is, of course.

OK. I'll probably just buy a cheap trowel and bin it or relegate it for
gardening etc.

Andy Hall wrote:
OK. I'll probably just buy a cheap trowel and bin it or relegate it for
gardening etc.

I might have made it sound worse than it is, as in it took me about
5-10 minutes to clean each trowel up with sandpaper. If I'd kept to one
trowel in the first place, I probably wouldn't have noticed.

It goes off fast in my experience (like epoxy wood filler), as in a 5-10
min workability timeframe. Mix little and often, otherwise you end up
with expensive tough lumps in your bucket.

I'd also say start with deep small holes first, just because the worst
part of it is its sticky-gluey-ness, which means it isn't easy to get
smooth or to feather (although when you get it there eventually, it does
feather quite well).

On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 23:34:14 +0100, Bolted wrote
(in article ):

Andy Hall wrote:
OK. I'll probably just buy a cheap trowel and bin it or relegate it for
gardening etc.

I might have made it sound worse than it is, as in it took me about
5-10 minutes to clean each trowel up with sandpaper. If I'd kept to one
trowel in the first place, I probably wouldn't have noticed.

It goes off fast in my experience (like epoxy wood filler), as in a 5-10
min workability timeframe. Mix little and often, otherwise you end up
with expensive tough lumps in your bucket.

I'd also say start with deep small holes first, just because the worst
part of it is its sticky-gluey-ness, which means it isn't easy to get
smooth or to feather (although when you get it there eventually, it does
feather quite well).

That would suit me well.

Is this the stuff?

http://www.countyconchem.co.uk/docs/...epoxymortar.ht
m


What is the finished colour? Light grey or??

Andy Hall wrote:
Is this the stuff?

http://www.countyconchem.co.uk/docs/...epoxymortar.ht
m


What is the finished colour? Light grey or??


Dunno, it came in a plastic bucket just like that, but I can't remember
the brand.

Kind of medium grey, I think. It was painted the next day and this was
about 3 years ago), but after the 24hrs it was given it was about the
colour of freshly set concrete the same age. I don't think it would
fade/lighten in quite the same way as concrete, given the different
chemical mechanisms in play - but it was painted over well before I
could tell for sure.

Bolted wrote:

I'd also say start with deep small holes first, just because the worst
part of it is its sticky-gluey-ness, which means it isn't easy to get
smooth or to feather (although when you get it there eventually, it does
feather quite well).

cant you put a bit of polythene on it and just press it flat?


NT

wrote:
cant you put a bit of polythene on it and just press it flat?
NT

I don't know. I didn't think to try. Depends how accurately you can
estimate how much to put underneath it, I suppose. Well worth a go, as
it would be easy to sand it off after.

Andy Hall wrote:

[...]

I'm given to understand that epoxy resin mortar is a good choice for this but
can't find any suppliers or more to the point on-line places to buy.

Have you looked at http://www.watco.co.uk/ ?

--
Andy

On 2006-07-23 00:04:03 +0100, Bolted said:

Andy Hall wrote:
Is this the stuff?

http://www.countyconchem.co.uk/docs/...epoxymortar.ht
m


What is the finished colour? Light grey or??


Dunno, it came in a plastic bucket just like that, but I can't remember
the brand.

Kind of medium grey, I think. It was painted the next day and this was
about 3 years ago), but after the 24hrs it was given it was about the
colour of freshly set concrete the same age. I don't think it would
fade/lighten in quite the same way as concrete, given the different
chemical mechanisms in play - but it was painted over well before I
could tell for sure.

OK...

On 2006-07-23 00:09:05 +0100, said:

Bolted wrote:

I'd also say start with deep small holes first, just because the worst
part of it is its sticky-gluey-ness, which means it isn't easy to get
smooth or to feather (although when you get it there eventually, it does
feather quite well).

cant you put a bit of polythene on it and just press it flat?


NT

Good thought, thanks

On 2006-07-23 09:38:15 +0100, Andy Wade said:

Andy Hall wrote:

[...]

I'm given to understand that epoxy resin mortar is a good choice for
this but can't find any suppliers or more to the point on-line places
to buy.

Have you looked at http://www.watco.co.uk/ ?

Have now. Concrex. Seems like the stuff. I am not sure that I
will need as much as 10kg, but that's OK. Thanks...

Andy Hall wrote:
On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 22:23:01 +0100, Bolted wrote
(in article ):

Andy Hall wrote:
Has anyone used this stuff or knows where to obtain it?

You can get it in B&Qs (big ones anyway), next to the FAB, cement dye,
and stuff. I've only used it once, for repairing some cracks in a
Victorian window lintel. Horrible sticky stuff that earns the
reputation that epoxy tile grout doesn't deserve in terms of difficulty
of application, or rather smoothing off once applied. If you have any
other option, I'd use it, although it sure seemed tough an hour or two
later, and no sign of any re-emergent cracks are visible - so it seems
effective. Unless this is going to have to have heavy loads, I'd go for
a self-levelling compound instead.

Thanks for that, I'll look for some. The area is going to have heavy
loads, so I do need something substantial.

Don't be silly. All you need do is paint some pva where the cement
needs patching and mix some pva with a strong grout. If it is just a
few millimeters use neat cement. Any thicker, use a little fine sand
-just enough to slow the drying and prevent cracking.

Does anyone know how well a neat mix of cement and lime would behave? I
imagine the lime would act as an expander the way sand does. But is it
likely to speed up the setting by adding heat to the process?

On 2006-07-23 10:15:46 +0100, "Weatherlawyer" said:


Andy Hall wrote:
On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 22:23:01 +0100, Bolted wrote
(in article ):

Andy Hall wrote:
Has anyone used this stuff or knows where to obtain it?

You can get it in B&Qs (big ones anyway), next to the FAB, cement dye,
and stuff. I've only used it once, for repairing some cracks in a
Victorian window lintel. Horrible sticky stuff that earns the
reputation that epoxy tile grout doesn't deserve in terms of difficulty
of application, or rather smoothing off once applied. If you have any
other option, I'd use it, although it sure seemed tough an hour or two
later, and no sign of any re-emergent cracks are visible - so it seems
effective. Unless this is going to have to have heavy loads, I'd go for
a self-levelling compound instead.

Thanks for that, I'll look for some. The area is going to have heavy
loads, so I do need something substantial.

Don't be silly. All you need do is paint some pva where the cement
needs patching and mix some pva with a strong grout. If it is just a
few millimeters use neat cement. Any thicker, use a little fine sand
-just enough to slow the drying and prevent cracking.

That technique has already been tried.

It doesn't work in the application that I have.

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2006-07-23 09:38:15 +0100, Andy Wade said:

Andy Hall wrote:

[...]

I'm given to understand that epoxy resin mortar is a good choice for
this but can't find any suppliers or more to the point on-line places
to buy.

Have you looked at http://www.watco.co.uk/ ?

Have now. Concrex. Seems like the stuff. I am not sure that I
will need as much as 10kg, but that's OK. Thanks...

Thats the stuff to use, (Concrex). Although It will feather edge ok,
best to go round the edge of repair with an angle grinder or even a
chisel and cut the edge out to a depth of 5mm or so.

After mixing do make sure you turn the material out into a wide mouthed
container or the 'exothermic' heat, (heat generated by the chemical
reaction) will set the material off very quickly and will smoke with
very toxic fumes.

On 2006-07-23 10:56:05 +0100, "Bookworm" said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2006-07-23 09:38:15 +0100, Andy Wade said:

Andy Hall wrote:

[...]

I'm given to understand that epoxy resin mortar is a good choice for
this but can't find any suppliers or more to the point on-line places
to buy.

Have you looked at http://www.watco.co.uk/ ?

Have now. Concrex. Seems like the stuff. I am not sure that I
will need as much as 10kg, but that's OK. Thanks...

Thats the stuff to use, (Concrex). Although It will feather edge ok,
best to go round the edge of repair with an angle grinder or even a
chisel and cut the edge out to a depth of 5mm or so.


Yes. Good thought.



After mixing do make sure you turn the material out into a wide mouthed
container or the 'exothermic' heat, (heat generated by the chemical
reaction) will set the material off very quickly and will smoke with
very toxic fumes.

Great. I love a bit of bucket chemistry. All the better if it's
exothermic and toxic as well.

I see that they have mixing kits for that purpose.

Thanks for the comments

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2006-07-23 10:56:05 +0100, "Bookworm" said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2006-07-23 09:38:15 +0100, Andy Wade
said:

Andy Hall wrote:

[...]

I'm given to understand that epoxy resin mortar is a good choice for
this but can't find any suppliers or more to the point on-line places
to buy.

Have you looked at http://www.watco.co.uk/ ?

Have now. Concrex. Seems like the stuff. I am not sure that I
will need as much as 10kg, but that's OK. Thanks...

Thats the stuff to use, (Concrex). Although It will feather edge ok,
best to go round the edge of repair with an angle grinder or even a
chisel and cut the edge out to a depth of 5mm or so.


Yes. Good thought.



After mixing do make sure you turn the material out into a wide mouthed
container or the 'exothermic' heat, (heat generated by the chemical
reaction) will set the material off very quickly and will smoke with
very toxic fumes.

Great. I love a bit of bucket chemistry. All the better if it's
exothermic and toxic as well.

Man after me own heart..I used a bit of epoxy 'mortar' to repair some
render that kept falling out where a much used door has its frame fastened.

Stuck like **** to a shovel, and painted up a treat.

On 2006-07-23 15:44:16 +0100, The Natural Philosopher said:

Andy Hall wrote:



Great. I love a bit of bucket chemistry. All the better if it's
exothermic and toxic as well.

Man after me own heart..I used a bit of epoxy 'mortar' to repair some
render that kept falling out where a much used door has its frame
fastened.

Stuck like **** to a shovel, and painted up a treat.

Sounds like it'll hit the spot.

I've always dreamed of having a mini-Manhattan Project (something needs
to be done about Birmingham) but it's a bit of a hassle getting the
ingredients.

On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 23:42:51 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 23:34:14 +0100, Bolted wrote
(in article ):

Andy Hall wrote:
OK. I'll probably just buy a cheap trowel and bin it or relegate it for
gardening etc.

I might have made it sound worse than it is, as in it took me about
5-10 minutes to clean each trowel up with sandpaper. If I'd kept to one
trowel in the first place, I probably wouldn't have noticed.

It goes off fast in my experience (like epoxy wood filler), as in a 5-10
min workability timeframe. Mix little and often, otherwise you end up
with expensive tough lumps in your bucket.

I'd also say start with deep small holes first, just because the worst
part of it is its sticky-gluey-ness, which means it isn't easy to get
smooth or to feather (although when you get it there eventually, it does
feather quite well).

That would suit me well.

Is this the stuff?

http://www.countyconchem.co.uk/docs/...epoxymortar.ht
m


What is the finished colour? Light grey or??

That's the stuff B&Q sell, ends up light grey in colour, somewhere
around 20 quid a pot, superb for repairing spalling on concrete
lintels and chunks taken out of workshop floors when someone drops a
heavy object.

The instructions will tell you to always mix the whole of the contents
but unless it is a huge hole/area you are filling and you can work
very quickly then in this weather most of it will go off before you
can fully finish it. Ideally you need it around 10 deg C to give
about 1 hour working time, in 20-25 deg you get about 30 minutes if
that. According to the tech info it's not supposed to exotherm but I
don't believe it. - maybe in a flat paint roller tray it wouldn't but
mixed in the supplied bucket it will.

Weighing out fractional amounts with an accurate set of scales results
in a practical quantity for most purposes.

Cleaning off of trowels requires either their own cleaner or acetone
- before it goes hard Wear vinyl gloves, goggles and disposable
overalls


--

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...

I need to repair/adjust level of some small areas of concrete floor in a
shed. It needs to be able to take foot traffic.

I'm given to understand that epoxy resin mortar is a good choice for this
but
can't find any suppliers or more to the point on-line places to buy.

Has anyone used this stuff or knows where to obtain it?


Search for Self Levelling compounds ... any company that makes that will
also do what you want

In article ,
Andy Hall wrote:

That was going to be my next question - working time and
fractional amounts - thanks for anticipating..

I've done quite a bit of potting for electronics with
room-temperature catalysts. In winter the pot-life would
be about 40 minutes and it would take overnight to
cure. On a hot summer's day don't bother... the pot
life would be seconds, and I have actually seen a batch
go off in mid-pour. If you have to do it now choose a
chilly night and do it in the early morning. After
pouring do a light waft with the hair drier which will
make it slightly runny, before it starts to cross-link.

--
Tony Williams.

Tony Williams wrote:
In article ,
Andy Hall wrote:

That was going to be my next question - working time and
fractional amounts - thanks for anticipating..

I've done quite a bit of potting for electronics with
room-temperature catalysts. In winter the pot-life would
be about 40 minutes and it would take overnight to
cure. On a hot summer's day don't bother... the pot
life would be seconds, and I have actually seen a batch
go off in mid-pour. If you have to do it now choose a
chilly night and do it in the early morning. After
pouring do a light waft with the hair drier which will
make it slightly runny, before it starts to cross-link.

I used it on a hot summers day. Working time about 15 minutes. Hard in a
couple of hours. Rock hard after a day. Roughly the same as '30 minute
epoxy'

Tony Williams wrote:
In article ,
Andy Hall wrote:

That was going to be my next question - working time and
fractional amounts - thanks for anticipating..

I've done quite a bit of potting for electronics with
room-temperature catalysts. In winter the pot-life would
be about 40 minutes and it would take overnight to
cure. On a hot summer's day don't bother... the pot
life would be seconds, and I have actually seen a batch
go off in mid-pour. If you have to do it now choose a
chilly night and do it in the early morning. After
pouring do a light waft with the hair drier which will
make it slightly runny, before it starts to cross-link.

Not tried this, but would it work to put the stuff in the fridge before
use? Should take it a bit of time to reach 30C then.


NT