After much analysis, web research and perusal of these newsgroups, I
recently complete the surfacing of my garage and basement flooring with
a polyamide epoxy coating (Rustoleum Professional Floor Coating). I
thought I'd pass along some of my thoughts and experience, so that it
might benefit others.

-- The first decision to be made is whether to use a solvent-based or
water-based epoxy coating. For me, this was an easy choice. As
research indicates that solvent-based coatings have better adhesion to
concrete, either bare or previously coated, so as to maximize
resistance to any possibility of hot-tire pickup, I selected the
solvent-based system. Furthermore, technical data sheets (e.g., see
TDS at www.benjaminmoore.com, industrial coatings) indicate that
solvent-based epoxy is more scratch resistant and a minimum of 50% more
durable than water-based epoxy coatings. Solvent-based epoxy is more
expensive, but worth it. And, if you assure good ventilation and buy
an inexpensive respirator mask, you'll have no problems with fumes,
which completely dissipate in about 24 hours.

-- Having selected a product, the most critical step ensues, and that
is floor preparation. Having the floor immaculately clean, per
directions, and any bare concrete etched, is critical to success. Even
more critical is 100% assurance that water or water vapor is not
migrating through the concrete from below. If so, this will defeat
adhesion, even with the most careful preparation, for either
water-based or solvent-based systems. (Fortunately, where I live in
coastal Florida, subsoils are very sandy, and water residuals at the
surface are nil.)

-- Most epoxy coatings advise that they can be apllied over prior
coatings, provided that they are non-glossy and firmly attached to the
substrate. In my case, I sanded an old acrylic epoxy paint that was
wearing out, but was rigidly attached to the floor. No problems
ensued, but if you have any doubts whatsoever, have the coating removed
because if it delaminates after epoxy application, you will have a
first-class disaster.

-- Most products advise that a single coat, put down with 3/8" rollers,
will suffice. However, I found that two coats are much better for
assuring uniform coverage and smoothing out minor imperfections in the
concrete surface. In my case, I applied the second coat with 1/4"
rollers, so as to make the finished surface as smooth as possible. Oh,
because often they have separated in their own cans, be sure that when
mixing two-part epoxies that you mix each component individually in its
own can before combining and mixing together. . Use a power drill
with mixer attachment.

-- If you plan to use color chips, sprinkled in the top coat, be sure
not to make your application squares larger than 3' x 3'; otherwise,
you'll find that you can't get close enough to far edges of the wet
coating to spread chips uniformly. And, try to get in a routine, so
application of epoxy and sprinkling of chips becomes routine and a wet
edge can be maintained between the work areas, so as to minimize lap
marks. By the way, color chips add a little roughness to the coating,
probably making it a little less slippery, although you might consider
an anti-slip additive if the floor will get wet frequently. For a
uniform finish, it also helps to create pre-measured cups of chips so
equal amounts can be applied to each square.

-- Here's an important tip that I discovered on my own. If you need to
use painters' tape to mask baseboards or other areas, be sure to use
the following steps for removal after applying epoxy: 1) remove tape as
soon as possible (after 16 hours) when epoxy is still pliable, 2) score
junction of epoxy and tape edge with razor knife, otherwise tape will
tear and adhere to epoxy, or epoxy will pull up at the edges with the
tape. If you wait days to remove tape, you'll really have problems
because the epoxy will be hard as glass.

-- Lastly, be sure to wait the recommended number of days (plus a
couple) before parking vehicles or moving heavy objects over the floor,
so the epoxy has a chance to cure to full hardness.

If you undertake this project, be patient, don't even think about
skimping on any preparation steps, and use quality products. You'll be
very happy with the results, I am certain.

Good luck!

thanks but i will pass, painting concrete is never a good idea, and
just creates maintence issues.

the good news you now know how to do it, make some notes and put away
in a safe spot, in a few years you will be doing the job again...

the notes will help you gigure out what went wrong, although stuff will
still happen...

On 4 May 2006 12:23:35 -0700, "
wrote:

thanks but i will pass, painting concrete is never a good idea, and
just creates maintence issues.

Not paint, but epoxy. Million dollar homes have epoxy coatings with
seven cars parked in the garages.

the good news you now know how to do it, make some notes and put away
in a safe spot, in a few years you will be doing the job again...

The OP stresses the preparation. My garage floors are on my list. I'm
lucky the original owner never parked in the garages, so I have
minimal floor cleaning to do.


Oren

"My doctor says I have a malformed public-duty gland
and a natural deficiency in moral fiber, and that I am therefore
excused from saving Universes."