SWMBO insists that we get laminate in the living room.

Planning on using the fibreboard-y underlay as there a few areas with a
1-2mm difference in level and an old concrete hearth. Under the
existing floor there's about 500mm gap down to an earth solum, so will
I need any sort of damp/vapour barrier under the underlay?

TIA for any help.

--
Doug
Ignore the old spamtrap work e-mail address; Try: doug at fruitloaf
dot net

douglas.farnan wrote:
Planning on using the fibreboard-y underlay as there a few areas with a
1-2mm difference in level and an old concrete hearth. Under the
existing floor there's about 500mm gap down to an earth solum, so will
I need any sort of damp/vapour barrier under the underlay?

If it's bumpy laminate floor won't lie properly. You shouldn't
need a DPM, but it there's any question of damp, put one in.

Chris Bacon wrote:
If it's bumpy laminate floor won't lie properly. You shouldn't
need a DPM, but it there's any question of damp, put one in.

The thicker fibreboard underlay will easily allow for 1 -2 mm difference in
level, Don't forget to lay the underlay diagonally and the laminate at 90
degrees to the floorboards.

Dave

SWMBO insists that we get laminate in the living room.

Got a dog by any chance ? - the noise of them scuttling around can be
quite bad, and they can have trouble getting up off the floor if
they`re getting old and creaky :-}

--
Please add the word "newsgroup" in the subject line of personal emails
**** My email address includes "ngspamtrap" and " ****

Colin Wilson wrote:
SWMBO insists that we get laminate in the living room.


Got a dog by any chance ? - the noise of them scuttling around can be
quite bad, and they can have trouble getting up off the floor if
they`re getting old and creaky :-}

We've got a hamster!

Thanks for the replies, I anticipated using the fibre underlay due to
the slight differences in level, wasn't aware I should lay it at
diagonally. Floorboards are on short span so laminate can go longways
towards the window.

No signs of damp anywhere, so I'll not bother with the damp proof membrane.

--
Doug
"Doug's cool. He's metal " - Fnook
Ignore the old spamtrap work address; mail me on: doug at fruitloaf dot net
http://suicidegirls.com/?hungrydoug

"Dougman" wrote in message
...
Colin Wilson wrote:
SWMBO insists that we get laminate in the living room.


Got a dog by any chance ? - the noise of them scuttling around can be
quite bad, and they can have trouble getting up off the floor if they`re
getting old and creaky :-}

We've got a hamster!

Thanks for the replies, I anticipated using the fibre underlay due to the
slight differences in level, wasn't aware I should lay it at diagonally.
Floorboards are on short span so laminate can go longways towards the
window.

No signs of damp anywhere, so I'll not bother with the damp proof
membrane.

All the professionals I know put down a damp proof membrane on every
concrete floor. If the fitting instructions say use a damp proof membrane
then use a damp proof membrane. If there are any future problems with
warping or joints "tenting" you wont have a leg to stand on.

Grumble wrote:
Thanks for the replies, I anticipated using the fibre underlay due
to the slight differences in level, wasn't aware I should lay it at
diagonally.

Only way to avoid a join in the underlay coinciding with a join in the
laminate flooring.

Floorboards are on short span so laminate can go
longways towards the window.

Short span? Wot dat?


All the professionals I know put down a damp proof membrane on every
concrete floor.

Agreed, but according to the OP its not a concrete floor - if I read things
correctly?

Dave

david lang wrote:
Grumble wrote:

Thanks for the replies, I anticipated using the fibre underlay due
to the slight differences in level, wasn't aware I should lay it at
diagonally.


Only way to avoid a join in the underlay coinciding with a join in the
laminate flooring.


Floorboards are on short span so laminate can go

longways towards the window.


Short span? Wot dat?



All the professionals I know put down a damp proof membrane on every
concrete floor.


Agreed, but according to the OP its not a concrete floor - if I read things
correctly?

Dave


Sorry, reverted to structural engineer mode. Short span is the "width"
of the room, the usual span of the joists, consequently, long span is
the "length" of the room. So I'm planning to lay the boards
perpendicular to the joists.

And you're quite correct that it's not a concrete floor, 500mm gap under
the joists to an earth solum.

--
Doug
"Doug's cool. He's metal " - Fnook
Ignore the old spamtrap work address; mail me on: doug at fruitloaf dot net
http://suicidegirls.com/?hungrydoug

wrote in message
ups.com...
SWMBO insists that we get laminate in the living room.

Planning on using the fibreboard-y underlay as there a few areas with a
1-2mm difference in level and an old concrete hearth. Under the
existing floor there's about 500mm gap down to an earth solum, so will
I need any sort of damp/vapour barrier under the underlay?

Always use a DPM when laid on a concrete ground floor ... personally I use a
3mm closed cell underlay with a built in DPM (UniClic product), if you
don't want to use that then lay a polythene sheet down first ... you can buy
this in small packs in B&Q or builders merchants or in large rolls .... buy
the thin clear polythene sheet, not the thick black DPM.


Rick