I need some help and advice. I just moved into a new expensive flat. I
am trying to save money as I am low on income. I noticed that my entire
flat is illuminated by halogen light bulbs. Every single light bulb
socket in the ceilings are halogen bulb sockets. I know that halogen
light bulbs uses 10x more electricity/energy than conventional/old
light bulbs. Does anyone know the easiest way to replace the halogen
bulb sockets to be able to use the conventional/old light bulbs? Does
there exist a convertor?

To save some money I have taken all but one halogen bulb out from each
room. However I still don't like the sight of halogen light bulbs. I
prefer installing "energy saving" light bulbs but I do not want to use
floor/table lamps. There are now holes with dangling wires from where
the halogen light bulbs used to be. The wires are the halogen sockets.

KevinGPO wrote:
I need some help and advice. I just moved into a new expensive flat. I
am trying to save money as I am low on income.

Moving into an expensive flat was perhaps not the best move then?


I know that halogen
light bulbs uses 10x more electricity/energy than conventional/old
light bulbs.

Really?


--
Grunff

On 29 Dec 2005 04:38:55 -0800, "KevinGPO"
wrote:

I need some help and advice. I just moved into a new expensive flat. I
am trying to save money as I am low on income. I noticed that my entire
flat is illuminated by halogen light bulbs. Every single light bulb
socket in the ceilings are halogen bulb sockets. I know that halogen
light bulbs uses 10x more electricity/energy than conventional/old
light bulbs. Does anyone know the easiest way to replace the halogen
bulb sockets to be able to use the conventional/old light bulbs? Does
there exist a convertor?

You do realise that you can now get energy-saving lamps to fit halogen
sockets?



--
ACK and you shall receive.

In message . com,
KevinGPO writes
I need some help and advice. I just moved into a new expensive flat. I
am trying to save money as I am low on income. I noticed that my entire
flat is illuminated by halogen light bulbs. Every single light bulb
socket in the ceilings are halogen bulb sockets. I know that halogen
light bulbs uses 10x more electricity/energy than conventional/old
light bulbs. Does anyone know the easiest way to replace the halogen
bulb sockets to be able to use the conventional/old light bulbs? Does
there exist a convertor?

To save some money I have taken all but one halogen bulb out from each
room. However I still don't like the sight of halogen light bulbs. I
prefer installing "energy saving" light bulbs but I do not want to use
floor/table lamps. There are now holes with dangling wires from where
the halogen light bulbs used to be. The wires are the halogen sockets.

Halogen lamps are MORE efficient than common lamps but less efficient
than compact fluorescent lamps.

What voltage and wattage are the existing lamps? What type of base does
it have?

If these are ordinary 110/240 volt lamps (depending on where you live)
then you could replace the lamps that are most likely to be lit for long
periods of tine with compact fluorescent.

Heating or air conditioning will account for a much greater cost than
lighting. If the weathers cold turn the heating down and get a woolly
jumper. If it's hot, turn the air conditioning to a warmer setting and
walk about in a pair of underpants.


--
Clive Mitchell
http://www.bigclive.com

KevinGPO wrote:
I need some help and advice. I just moved into a new expensive flat. I
am trying to save money as I am low on income. I noticed that my

Heh!
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

In article ,
Clive Mitchell writes:

Halogen lamps are MORE efficient than common lamps but less efficient
than compact fluorescent lamps.

The lamps themselves are, but lighting a room by indirect light
reflected off the floor is horribly inefficient. It's common to
find a kitchen with 500W of halogen downlighters that has a much
lower level of illumination everywhere that matters than you
get from hanging a 60W lamp in the middle of the room.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Hey ! everybody, we are a energy saving lamp manufacturer in Taiwan and
actually had been develop this kind of bulb, I mean in G6.3 base ( same with
MR11 bulb ) and working in 12Vac, so, it can replace MR-11 bulb directly
without change anything, the original idea is design to replace halogen
bulb in low voltage garden lighing system, especially for pathway light
fixture application, we had been promote with USA market, in our idea this
way can use a small power transformer can drive more fixture and get more
illumination, but, the reponse is not good, does any can get us some
comment, I hope I can know where is going wrong.

David Huang

"KevinGPO"
groups.com...
I need some help and advice. I just moved into a new expensive flat. I
am trying to save money as I am low on income. I noticed that my entire
flat is illuminated by halogen light bulbs. Every single light bulb
socket in the ceilings are halogen bulb sockets. I know that halogen
light bulbs uses 10x more electricity/energy than conventional/old
light bulbs. Does anyone know the easiest way to replace the halogen
bulb sockets to be able to use the conventional/old light bulbs? Does
there exist a convertor?

To save some money I have taken all but one halogen bulb out from each
room. However I still don't like the sight of halogen light bulbs. I
prefer installing "energy saving" light bulbs but I do not want to use
floor/table lamps. There are now holes with dangling wires from where
the halogen light bulbs used to be. The wires are the halogen sockets.

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Clive Mitchell writes:

Halogen lamps are MORE efficient than common lamps but less efficient
than compact fluorescent lamps.

The lamps themselves are, but lighting a room by indirect light
reflected off the floor is horribly inefficient. It's common to
find a kitchen with 500W of halogen downlighters that has a much
lower level of illumination everywhere that matters than you
get from hanging a 60W lamp in the middle of the room.


Hear hear. Halogen downlighter installs are horribly expensive to run.
Fitting standard filament bulbs wil gain nothing. Replacing the
fittings with CFL downlighters will improve things by a factor of 3 or
so, but will still not be energy efficient.

If you want sane running costs, you need to change away from
downlighters. A wall mounted spotlight fitted with a CFL bulb and
pointed upwards makes a fairly good uplighter. A couple of those are
enough for a small room, as one can only really fit 40w equivalent cfls
in them. Spots, pendants, bowls etc can all be mounted on ceilings too.
The trick is to point them at the white ceiling, not the carpet. CFL
lighting is the most economical option, so forget anything not CFL
compatible. For pendant shades, pick white and make sure the shade is
washable.

If you're adding new lights, use a switchbank, each light on its own
switch. Payback is typically within a year.


NT

David wrote:

Hey ! everybody, we are a energy saving lamp manufacturer in Taiwan and
actually had been develop this kind of bulb, I mean in G6.3 base ( same with
MR11 bulb ) and working in 12Vac, so, it can replace MR-11 bulb directly
without change anything, the original idea is design to replace halogen
bulb in low voltage garden lighing system, especially for pathway light
fixture application, we had been promote with USA market, in our idea this
way can use a small power transformer can drive more fixture and get more
illumination, but, the reponse is not good, does any can get us some
comment, I hope I can know where is going wrong.

David Huang


Are the lamp dimensions exactly the same as the MR11? How does the
light output compare, for say, a 20W lamp? By the way, the MR11 seems
to use a GU4 base, is this the same as a G6.3?

Regards
Capitol

How about replacing the bulbs with LED ones............. they seem to be
good for 30,000 hours and use minimal electricity.
"KevinGPO" wrote in message
ups.com...
I need some help and advice. I just moved into a new expensive flat. I
am trying to save money as I am low on income. I noticed that my entire
flat is illuminated by halogen light bulbs. Every single light bulb
socket in the ceilings are halogen bulb sockets. I know that halogen
light bulbs uses 10x more electricity/energy than conventional/old
light bulbs. Does anyone know the easiest way to replace the halogen
bulb sockets to be able to use the conventional/old light bulbs? Does
there exist a convertor?

To save some money I have taken all but one halogen bulb out from each
room. However I still don't like the sight of halogen light bulbs. I
prefer installing "energy saving" light bulbs but I do not want to use
floor/table lamps. There are now holes with dangling wires from where
the halogen light bulbs used to be. The wires are the halogen sockets.

In message , Geoff Norfolk
writes
How about replacing the bulbs with LED ones............. they seem to
be good for 30,000 hours and use minimal electricity.

And indeed emit minimal light too. These are best suited to mood
lighting.

The white ones are still predominantly the ugly blue-white and the
quoted life is often not achieved when the lamps have used crappy LEDs.

That said, the circuitry that drops the mains voltage and limits the
current to the LED arrays in these lamps has evolved to a stage of utter
simplicity and low component count. Namely (for a 240V lamp) a 240 ohm
1/4W current inrush limiting resistor (also acts as a fuse), a 270nF
400V capacitor to limit the current, a 1Mohm 1/4W resistor to discharge
the capacitor and avoid nasty nips off the lamp pins and lastly a small
bridge rectifier to rectify the limited AC to DC for the LED array.
Sweet.

See the PCB of a lamp he-

http://www.emanator.demon.co.uk/candle2.jpg

--
Clive Mitchell
http://www.bigclive.com

In message , Clive Mitchell
writes
In message , Geoff Norfolk
writes
How about replacing the bulbs with LED ones............. they seem to
be good for 30,000 hours and use minimal electricity.

And indeed emit minimal light too. These are best suited to mood
lighting.

Did anyone else notice, just before xmas, one of the "I can make my
house viewable from space" brigade being interviewed - "They're LEDs, so
they don't use any electricity"

or did I mention that before ?

--
geoff

"Clive Mitchell" wrote in message
...
In message , Geoff Norfolk
writes
How about replacing the bulbs with LED ones............. they seem to be
good for 30,000 hours and use minimal electricity.

And indeed emit minimal light too. These are best suited to mood
lighting.

The white ones are still predominantly the ugly blue-white and the quoted
life is often not achieved when the lamps have used crappy LEDs.

That said, the circuitry that drops the mains voltage and limits the
current to the LED arrays in these lamps has evolved to a stage of utter
simplicity and low component count. Namely (for a 240V lamp) a 240 ohm
1/4W current inrush limiting resistor (also acts as a fuse), a 270nF 400V
capacitor to limit the current, a 1Mohm 1/4W resistor to discharge the
capacitor and avoid nasty nips off the lamp pins and lastly a small bridge
rectifier to rectify the limited AC to DC for the LED array. Sweet.

See the PCB of a lamp he-

http://www.emanator.demon.co.uk/candle2.jpg

Nice! Do you have a schematic for that?

Certainly, the diamension will be much bigger than a MR11 bulb, it need a
ballast so it is much bigger thana normall bulb, but the lumen efficiency of
engery saving lamp is batter than halogen bulb ( about 4 times ), I remember
MR11 is G6.3 base not GU4.


"Capitol"
...


David wrote:

Hey ! everybody, we are a energy saving lamp manufacturer in Taiwan and
actually had been develop this kind of bulb, I mean in G6.3 base ( same
with MR11 bulb ) and working in 12Vac, so, it can replace MR-11 bulb
directly without change anything, the original idea is design to replace
halogen bulb in low voltage garden lighing system, especially for pathway
light fixture application, we had been promote with USA market, in our
idea this way can use a small power transformer can drive more fixture
and get more illumination, but, the reponse is not good, does any can get
us some comment, I hope I can know where is going wrong.

David Huang


Are the lamp dimensions exactly the same as the MR11? How does the light
output compare, for say, a 20W lamp? By the way, the MR11 seems to use a
GU4 base, is this the same as a G6.3?

Regards
Capitol

In message , Blueyonder
writes
http://www.emanator.demon.co.uk/candle2.jpg

Nice! Do you have a schematic for that?

Take a look on my website at the fibre optic hack. It contains roughly
the same circuit but with smoothing and all the hassle that entails.
The discharge resistor is in a different position in the schematic on my
site and all the components on the DC side of the rectifier are not
needed except for the LEDs.

http://www.emanator.demon.co.uk/bigclive/fibre.htm

With a modest number of LEDs the 100/120Hz flicker is not noticeable
anyway.

If you take a look at the original picture I linked to and follow it
through with me, then this should make sense...

http://www.emanator.demon.co.uk/candle2.jpg

The 1M resistor is soldered across the capacitor. It isn't really
needed, but without it you can get a nip from residual charge when the
lamp is unplugged.

The 240 ohm resistor and capacitor are in series between the mains Live
(Hot) and one of the AC pins on the rectifier. The other AC pin on the
rectifier is connected straight to Neutral (return).

The LEDs are all connected in series between the +ve and -ve terminals
of the rectifier. And that's it!

For 110V use I guess you might need a 470nF 200V capacitor, but I've
only seen the insides of the 240V lamps. (Someone in America might
perhaps open one and tell us?)

--
Clive Mitchell
http://www.bigclive.com

"Clive Mitchell" wrote in message
...
In message , Blueyonder
writes
http://www.emanator.demon.co.uk/candle2.jpg

Nice! Do you have a schematic for that?

Take a look on my website at the fibre optic hack. It contains roughly
the same circuit but with smoothing and all the hassle that entails. The
discharge resistor is in a different position in the schematic on my site
and all the components on the DC side of the rectifier are not needed
except for the LEDs.

http://www.emanator.demon.co.uk/bigclive/fibre.htm

Cool. Much appreciated.

You may want to consider earthing those metal bolts that hold your
mains-potential PCB up, and that also stick out the bottom of the case.
Perhaps nylon bolts would work - not sure - but a warning would perhaps be
good for those that may try to copy it and not realise. Cool all the same.

-- Jason

In message , Blueyonder
writes
http://www.emanator.demon.co.uk/bigclive/fibre.htm

Cool. Much appreciated.

You may want to consider earthing those metal bolts that hold your
mains-potential PCB up, and that also stick out the bottom of the case.
Perhaps nylon bolts would work - not sure - but a warning would perhaps
be good for those that may try to copy it and not realise. Cool all the
same.

It does mention that there should be good clearance of the bolts or
plastic ones should be used.

That said, as soon as I put that hack up the shops ran out of those
lights and have started selling a much less hackable version.

I really should put up the Christmas tree version. It's a PCB designed
to fit onto standard fixings in the most common fibre optic tree bases
and provide bright ultra-pure colour LED lighting up the fibre optic
branches at less than 2W. I made the first few last year and made a few
custom versions for friends this year.

The UV LED "Gothmas" tree was most psychedelic.

--
Clive Mitchell
http://www.bigclive.com

On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 23:05:55 +0800, "David"
wrote:

Certainly, the diamension will be much bigger than a MR11 bulb, it need a
ballast so it is much bigger thana normall bulb, but the lumen efficiency of
engery saving lamp is batter than halogen bulb ( about 4 times ), I remember
MR11 is G6.3 base not GU4.

You say only "energy saving." What type of lamp is this?

--
Vic Roberts
http://www.RobertsResearchInc.com
To reply via e-mail:
replace xxx with vdr in the Reply to: address
or use e-mail address listed at the Web site.

This information is provided for educational purposes only.
It may not be used in any publication or posted on any Web
site without written permission.

It's 3U sharp engery saving lamp with G6.3 base and working in 12 Vac

"Victor Roberts"
...
On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 23:05:55 +0800, "David"
wrote:

Certainly, the diamension will be much bigger than a MR11 bulb, it need a
ballast so it is much bigger thana normall bulb, but the lumen efficiency
of
engery saving lamp is batter than halogen bulb ( about 4 times ), I
remember
MR11 is G6.3 base not GU4.

You say only "energy saving." What type of lamp is this?

--
Vic Roberts
http://www.RobertsResearchInc.com
To reply via e-mail:
replace xxx with vdr in the Reply to: address
or use e-mail address listed at the Web site.

This information is provided for educational purposes only.
It may not be used in any publication or posted on any Web
site without written permission.

On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 21:58:17 GMT, Geoff Norfolk wrote:

How about replacing the bulbs with LED ones............. they seem to be
good for 30,000 hours and use minimal electricity.

And sadly provide minimal light too.

I looked into this recently. The output is down around '10W halogen'
equivalent.


"KevinGPO" wrote in message
ups.com...
I need some help and advice. I just moved into a new expensive flat. I
am trying to save money as I am low on income. I noticed that my entire
flat is illuminated by halogen light bulbs. Every single light bulb
socket in the ceilings are halogen bulb sockets. I know that halogen
light bulbs uses 10x more electricity/energy than conventional/old
light bulbs. Does anyone know the easiest way to replace the halogen
bulb sockets to be able to use the conventional/old light bulbs? Does
there exist a convertor?

To save some money I have taken all but one halogen bulb out from each
room. However I still don't like the sight of halogen light bulbs. I
prefer installing "energy saving" light bulbs but I do not want to use
floor/table lamps. There are now holes with dangling wires from where
the halogen light bulbs used to be. The wires are the halogen sockets.

On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 15:43:56 +0800, "David"
wrote:

It's 3U sharp engery saving lamp with G6.3 base and working in 12 Vac

I'm sorry - my question was not clear enough.

Please describe the lamp technology. Is this a standard
incandescent lamp, an incandescent lamp with IR reflecting
coating, a halogen incandescent lamp with or without IR
reflecting coating, a compact fluorescent lamp, some other
type of discharge lamp, or a solid state lamp such as a
light emitting diode, or something completely different?

--
Vic Roberts
http://www.RobertsResearchInc.com
To reply via e-mail:
replace xxx with vdr in the Reply to: address
or use e-mail address listed at the Web site.

This information is provided for educational purposes only.
It may not be used in any publication or posted on any Web
site without written permission.

On Thu, 29 Dec 2005, KevinGPO wrote:

I need some help and advice. I just moved into a new expensive flat. I
am trying to save money as I am low on income. I noticed that my entire
flat is illuminated by halogen light bulbs. I know that halogen light
bulbs uses 10x more electricity/energy than conventional/old light
bulbs. Does anyone know the easiest way to replace the halogen bulb
sockets to be able to use the conventional/old light bulbs?

+--------------------------------------+
\ 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 /
\ \ 1 9 /
\ 0 \ 10 /
\ \ TROLL-O-METER /
\ \ /
\ \ /
\___\______________________/
\ /
\....................../


+----------+
| PLEASE |
| DO NOT |
| FEED THE |
| TROLLS |
+----------+
| |
| |
.\|.||/..

Daniel J. Stern wrote:

+----------+
| PLEASE |
| DO NOT |
| FEED THE |
| TROLLS |
+----------+
| |
| |
.\|.||/..

Have you cracked getting a decent light output replacement headlamp for
the Dodge Intrepids 95-99? yet?

Regards
Capitol

On Sat, 31 Dec 2005, Capitol wrote:

Have you cracked getting a decent light output replacement headlamp for
the Dodge Intrepids 95-99? yet?

1) No Intrepids in the UK
2) Two completely different bodystyles in your year range
3) Question asked and answered elsewhere
4) ...

David wrote:
Certainly, the diamension will be much bigger than a MR11 bulb, it need a
ballast so it is much bigger thana normall bulb, but the lumen efficiency of
engery saving lamp is batter than halogen bulb ( about 4 times ), I remember
MR11 is G6.3 base not GU4.

MR11s use GU4 bases. MR16s use, IIRC, GU5.3. Some low voltage halogen
capsules use G6.5. I have no idea what, if anything, uses a G6.3.

--
By the time they are 65 years old, most Americans have watched
more than nine years worth of television.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Simon Waldman, UK email:
---------------------------------------------------------------

On Thu, 29 Dec 2005, wrote:

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

lighting a room by indirect light reflected off the floor is horribly
inefficient. It's common to find a kitchen with 500W of halogen
downlighters that has a much lower level of illumination everywhere
that matters than you get from hanging a 60W lamp in the middle of the
room.

Hear hear. Halogen downlighter installs are horribly expensive to run.
If you want sane running costs, you need to change away from
downlighters.

In the '80s and '90s, it seemed *very* trendy to use PARs in plain
downlighter cans virtually everywhere. New home construction, old home
renovation, new offices, old offices, etc. I remember seeing a typical
kitchen rework going to 11x downlighter can, each with a 90w PAR38. Floor
was nice and hot, but counters were cold, so add about 10x F15T8s into the
mix, which gets the counters but not the cooktop, so add 2x 75w A-line
into the range hood...sheesh.

8x eyeball cans with HIR 54w PAR38 wide floods: MUCH BETTER overall
illumination (floor hot enough to see adequately; work surfaces and
cabinets well and evenly illuminated), undercounter F15s no longer needed,
1/3 the power.

The quick 'n' dirty means where installing eyeball cans isn't practicable
or affordable? Track lighting.

Daniel J. Stern wrote:
On Sat, 31 Dec 2005, Capitol wrote:

Have you cracked getting a decent light output replacement headlamp
for the Dodge Intrepids 95-99? yet?


1) No Intrepids in the UK
2) Two completely different bodystyles in your year range
3) Question asked and answered elsewhere
4) ...


1) Not quite correct. Albeit, very few.

So, sadly, overall, that's a No then!

Regards
Capitol

Please take a look at these photographs of my halogen light bulbs. The
only thing written on them are 12V 50W and some brand name. Please can
someone help me identify the proper code name for them. Thanks!


http://members.lycos.co.uk/kevingpo/...9-06_20.13.jpg

http://members.lycos.co.uk/kevingpo/...9-06_20.15.jpg

http://members.lycos.co.uk/kevingpo/...9-06_20.16.jpg

In article .com,
"KevinGPO" writes:
Please take a look at these photographs of my halogen light bulbs. The
only thing written on them are 12V 50W and some brand name. Please can
someone help me identify the proper code name for them. Thanks!


http://members.lycos.co.uk/kevingpo/...9-06_20.13.jpg

http://members.lycos.co.uk/kevingpo/...9-06_20.15.jpg

http://members.lycos.co.uk/kevingpo/...9-06_20.16.jpg

They're MR16's probably (including a ruler in the picture would
help). In some cases, they've still got the lampholder's
retaining ring attached to them (which is not part of the bulb).

--
Andrew Gabriel

Now that we have identified that my bulbs are MR-16:

http://members.lycos.co.uk/kevingpo/...9-06_20.13.jpg

http://members.lycos.co.uk/kevingpo/...9-06_20.15.jpg

http://members.lycos.co.uk/kevingpo/...9-06_20.16.jpg

Can you advise me on the lowest-energy / energy-saving-light-bulb-like
bulbs that I can purchase for the socket type that I have. Or are the
bulbs am using the cheapest/lowest-energy I can use?

I prefer using the energy-saving light bulbs (11W, etc.) Bayonet B22 or
ES base fitting. Is it possible getting a convertor from the current
sockets I have, or do I have to get an electrician to replace the
sockets?

Best regards
Kevin


Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article .com,
"KevinGPO" writes:
Please take a look at these photographs of my halogen light bulbs. The
only thing written on them are 12V 50W and some brand name. Please can
someone help me identify the proper code name for them. Thanks!


http://members.lycos.co.uk/kevingpo/...9-06_20.13.jpg

http://members.lycos.co.uk/kevingpo/...9-06_20.15.jpg

http://members.lycos.co.uk/kevingpo/...9-06_20.16.jpg

They're MR16's probably (including a ruler in the picture would
help). In some cases, they've still got the lampholder's
retaining ring attached to them (which is not part of the bulb).

--
Andrew Gabriel

In message . com,
KevinGPO writes
Can you advise me on the lowest-energy / energy-saving-light-bulb-like
bulbs that I can purchase for the socket type that I have. Or are the
bulbs am using the cheapest/lowest-energy I can use?

You could theoretically install 12V 20W lamps in the same style, but
depending on the type of transformer and the loading, the voltage may
rise slightly. If it's 11.5V to start with then that may not be much of
an issue. Have you any idea if it's a separate transformer per light or
if there's a common transformer?

Another option would be to install the LED version of the lamp, but
their output is very low and the white tends to be rather harsh.

--
Clive Mitchell
http://www.bigclive.com

KevinGPO wrote:
Now that we have identified that my bulbs are MR-16:

Can you advise me on the lowest-energy / energy-saving-light-bulb-like
bulbs that I can purchase for the socket type that I have. Or are the
bulbs am using the cheapest/lowest-energy I can use?

There are halogen lamps with a heat reflecting coating around the bulb.
The same light output is achieved with lower energy consumption. In your
case you can replace a 50 W lamp with a "new generation" 35 W lamp.
Such lamps are manufactured by Osram and Philips for example:

http://www.osram.com/products/genera...irc_range.html
http://www.osram.com/pdf/service_corner/irc_range.pdf
http://www.lighting.philips.com/in_e...terline_es.pdf

Beware that MR16 halogen lamps are available in different beam angles
(spot, flood, wide flood, very wide flood).

More savings could be achieved with compact fluorescent lamps, but they
have other dimensions.

Christian.

On Sat, 14 Jan 2006 21:43:12 +0100, "Christian Koch"
wrote:

KevinGPO wrote:
Now that we have identified that my bulbs are MR-16:

Can you advise me on the lowest-energy / energy-saving-light-bulb-like
bulbs that I can purchase for the socket type that I have. Or are the
bulbs am using the cheapest/lowest-energy I can use?

There are halogen lamps with a heat reflecting coating around the bulb.
The same light output is achieved with lower energy consumption. In your
case you can replace a 50 W lamp with a "new generation" 35 W lamp.
Such lamps are manufactured by Osram and Philips for example:

and were invented by scientists and engineers at GE.

--
Vic Roberts
http://www.RobertsResearchInc.com
To reply via e-mail:
replace xxx with vdr in the Reply to: address
or use e-mail address listed at the Web site.

This information is provided for educational purposes only.
It may not be used in any publication or posted on any Web
site without written permission.