Hi all,

my "ideal responce" boiler has developed a very slow leak
where one of the water pipes enters the heat exchanger.
The connection is not a hexagonal nut but a metal flange type
fitting with two large screws and a allen key type nut on the side.

I tried to tighten these screws but they wont budge (any ideas?)
or could i possibly add some type of heat resistant sealent
around the fitting?

Is boiler finished along with my bank account (sniff sniff)
or is there any way to repair this?

any help much appreciated.

nige.

On Thu, 22 Dec 2005 11:32:07 +0000 (UTC), "Nigel Day"
wrote:

Hi all,

my "ideal responce" boiler has developed a very slow leak
where one of the water pipes enters the heat exchanger.
The connection is not a hexagonal nut but a metal flange type
fitting with two large screws and a allen key type nut on the side.

I tried to tighten these screws but they wont budge (any ideas?)
or could i possibly add some type of heat resistant sealent
around the fitting?

Is boiler finished along with my bank account (sniff sniff)
or is there any way to repair this?

any help much appreciated.

nige.




Hva you checked to see if anywhere has exploded diagrams of the
various fittings to see how it is put together .perhaps Ideal's
website .??

Adding heat resistant sealant might work but a better solution would
be to try and get the fitting removed to see how it is sealed and
repair it properly ... It might have a gasket or ceramic rope beneath
the fitting .

Stuart




--

Shift THELEVER to reply.

"Stuart" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 22 Dec 2005 11:32:07 +0000 (UTC), "Nigel Day"
wrote:

Hi all,

my "ideal responce" boiler has developed a very slow leak
where one of the water pipes enters the heat exchanger.
The connection is not a hexagonal nut but a metal flange type
fitting with two large screws and a allen key type nut on the side.

I tried to tighten these screws but they wont budge (any ideas?)
or could i possibly add some type of heat resistant sealent
around the fitting?

Is boiler finished along with my bank account (sniff sniff)
or is there any way to repair this?

any help much appreciated.

nige.




Hva you checked to see if anywhere has exploded diagrams of the
various fittings to see how it is put together .perhaps Ideal's
website .??

Adding heat resistant sealant might work but a better solution would
be to try and get the fitting removed to see how it is sealed and
repair it properly ... It might have a gasket or ceramic rope beneath
the fitting .

Stuart




--

Shift THELEVER to reply.

Is the leak definately from the connection? If so, drain down the boiler
(whole system if open-vented), and re-make the connection (using appropriate
o'rings / washers / PTFE etc) No gas connections involved. Beware, any
water left in the heat exchanger which may escape once you undo the
connection may be black as your hat. If the leak is infact from a split in
the heat exchanger, then it is game over - not economically viable to
repair.

A competent parts supplier (e.g. HRPC) will be able to help you identify any
parts required, just supply them with the Gas Council Number (GC Number -
found on the boiler data plate).

FYI - If you do manage to fix it, start saving again, as you PCB is likely
to blow soon, possibly your fan will knacker up soon too - thats around
£250/£300 + labour. These boilers are prone to these failures - get a
Worcester or Vaillant.

Angus

"Fentoozler" nospam@mapson wrote in message
...
"Stuart" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 22 Dec 2005 11:32:07 +0000 (UTC), "Nigel Day"
wrote:

Hi all,

my "ideal responce" boiler has developed a very slow leak
where one of the water pipes enters the heat exchanger.
The connection is not a hexagonal nut but a metal flange type
fitting with two large screws and a allen key type nut on the side.

I tried to tighten these screws but they wont budge (any ideas?)
or could i possibly add some type of heat resistant sealent
around the fitting?

Is boiler finished along with my bank account (sniff sniff)
or is there any way to repair this?

any help much appreciated.

nige.




Hva you checked to see if anywhere has exploded diagrams of the
various fittings to see how it is put together .perhaps Ideal's
website .??

Adding heat resistant sealant might work but a better solution would
be to try and get the fitting removed to see how it is sealed and
repair it properly ... It might have a gasket or ceramic rope beneath
the fitting .

Stuart




--

Shift THELEVER to reply.

Is the leak definately from the connection? If so, drain down the boiler
(whole system if open-vented), and re-make the connection (using
appropriate o'rings / washers / PTFE etc) No gas connections involved.
Beware, any water left in the heat exchanger which may escape once you
undo the connection may be black as your hat. If the leak is infact from
a split in the heat exchanger, then it is game over - not economically
viable to repair.

A competent parts supplier (e.g. HRPC) will be able to help you identify
any parts required, just supply them with the Gas Council Number (GC
Number - found on the boiler data plate).

FYI - If you do manage to fix it, start saving again, as you PCB is likely
to blow soon, possibly your fan will knacker up soon too - thats around
£250/£300 + labour. These boilers are prone to these failures - get a
Worcester or Vaillant.

Angus


Thanks very much for your
comprehensive replies, much
appreciated. right about the
pcb too. replaced it a few months
ago

Are there any decent boilers these
days that dont require multiple repairs
after a few years of life?

thanks again

"Nigel Day" wrote in message
...

"Fentoozler" nospam@mapson wrote in message
...
"Stuart" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 22 Dec 2005 11:32:07 +0000 (UTC), "Nigel Day"
wrote:

Hi all,

my "ideal responce" boiler has developed a very slow leak
where one of the water pipes enters the heat exchanger.
The connection is not a hexagonal nut but a metal flange type
fitting with two large screws and a allen key type nut on the side.

I tried to tighten these screws but they wont budge (any ideas?)
or could i possibly add some type of heat resistant sealent
around the fitting?

Is boiler finished along with my bank account (sniff sniff)
or is there any way to repair this?

any help much appreciated.

nige.




Hva you checked to see if anywhere has exploded diagrams of the
various fittings to see how it is put together .perhaps Ideal's
website .??

Adding heat resistant sealant might work but a better solution would
be to try and get the fitting removed to see how it is sealed and
repair it properly ... It might have a gasket or ceramic rope beneath
the fitting .

Stuart




--

Shift THELEVER to reply.

Is the leak definately from the connection? If so, drain down the boiler
(whole system if open-vented), and re-make the connection (using
appropriate o'rings / washers / PTFE etc) No gas connections involved.
Beware, any water left in the heat exchanger which may escape once you
undo the connection may be black as your hat. If the leak is infact from
a split in the heat exchanger, then it is game over - not economically
viable to repair.

A competent parts supplier (e.g. HRPC) will be able to help you identify
any parts required, just supply them with the Gas Council Number (GC
Number - found on the boiler data plate).

FYI - If you do manage to fix it, start saving again, as you PCB is
likely to blow soon, possibly your fan will knacker up soon too - thats
around £250/£300 + labour. These boilers are prone to these failures -
get a Worcester or Vaillant.

Angus


Thanks very much for your
comprehensive replies, much
appreciated. right about the
pcb too. replaced it a few months
ago

Are there any decent boilers these
days that dont require multiple repairs
after a few years of life?

thanks again

As mentioned, Worcester Bosch (excellent boilers, excellent customer and
technical support), or Vaillant. I am a Breakdown/Service Engineer, and all
boilers of any make will break down one day, but in my experience of modern
boilers (system,combi,condensing), there are some boilers you dread being
called out to Alpha, Ariston, Biasi, Ideal - and some where you know you'll
be able to diagnose the fault and get the manufacturer's support if
required. Baxi are ok, also Glowworm (owned by Vaillant incidently).

Angus

Actually Nige, for some reason, when I read your first post, a picture of a
Potterton Suprema shot into my head, not an Ideal Response.
An Ideal Response is a different kettle of fish. There are gas connections
around the heat exchanger (don't touch the banjo tubes inside the boiler).

I have seen several leaks on Respose heat exchangers, and it is always a
split (very often leaking directly into the fan which hangs off the bottom
of the cylindrical heat exchanger, which can then cause explosive ignition).
These are, in my opinion, nasty boilers, sealed pressurised system combi
boilers. You will need to isolate the water to the boiler (the isolation
valves will then probably leak once you've turned them), and drain off using
the boiler's drain-off valve (difficult to get to and use)!
Conversly, I can't remember replacing a faulty fan on a Response! I have
replaced most other bits, temperature sensors, pcbs, low water pressure
switches, flow switches, pressure relief valves, all *******s to get and and
change.

I would get an engineer in if I were you, or save up and get a boiler
replacement in the spring.

i have an ideal isar he35 and like the op it has a small leak where the
return pipe enters the heat engine, it is also held in place by a plate
secured by a small bolt/screw, the leak appears to be coming from one
of the sump screws adjacent to the return pipe although the water may
just be tracking to this screw. in your experience would the heat
engine have failed?, its only 14 months old, or is it more likely to be
a loose screw/ bad connectioin? i was tempted to try a proprietry brand
of leak stopper, would this work, are there any problems associated
with using leak stoppers?. i did phone ideal and explained that the
boiler was just out of warranty and that the leak appeared to be quite
old, however they 'only have enough engineers to cover warranty work',
but if i have it repaired and send them evidence of a long standing
fault they will consider bearing the cost

thanks

wrote in message
ups.com...
i have an ideal isar he35 and like the op it has a small leak where the
return pipe enters the heat engine, it is also held in place by a plate
secured by a small bolt/screw, the leak appears to be coming from one
of the sump screws adjacent to the return pipe although the water may
just be tracking to this screw. in your experience would the heat
engine have failed?, its only 14 months old, or is it more likely to be
a loose screw/ bad connectioin? i was tempted to try a proprietry brand
of leak stopper, would this work, are there any problems associated
with using leak stoppers?. i did phone ideal and explained that the
boiler was just out of warranty and that the leak appeared to be quite
old, however they 'only have enough engineers to cover warranty work',
but if i have it repaired and send them evidence of a long standing
fault they will consider bearing the cost

thanks


This is a condensing boiler, and a nasty one at that. If not serviced
properly (taking special care to clean out the condensate trap) then the
condensate can sit in the heat exchanger / combustion chamber if there is a
blockage and rot connections away - I've seen it happen, only on an Isar
though, invalidating warrantys and being unrepairable in many cases. At 14
months old, you may still have a parts warranty left (up to 24 months
possibly?), or they also offer a service call with a guaranteed fix unless
related to sludge for £170 or there abouts.

Angus

Fentoozler wrote:

This is a condensing boiler, and a nasty one at that. If not serviced
properly (taking special care to clean out the condensate trap) then the
condensate can sit in the heat exchanger / combustion chamber if there is a
blockage and rot connections away -

Out of interest, what are these connections made from that water can
"rot" so quickly?

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
news
Fentoozler wrote:

This is a condensing boiler, and a nasty one at that. If not serviced
properly (taking special care to clean out the condensate trap) then the
condensate can sit in the heat exchanger / combustion chamber if there
is a blockage and rot connections away -

Out of interest, what are these connections made from that water can "rot"
so quickly?

It must be over a year since I worked on one (thankfully). The example I saw
was the 'spigot' at the bottom of the combustion chamber which then joined
onto the condensate siphoning pipe work - this was a metal connection, steel
or copper, which the highly acidic condensate will munch through (which is
why condensate pipes are run in plastic). Design fault. Ideal again!

In article ,
Stuart Noble writes:

Out of interest, what are these connections made from that water can
"rot" so quickly?

ISTR the Ideal condensing boilers used aluminium alloy heat
exchangers back when I was selecting a condensing boiler.
That was one of the reasons I avoided them.
The water is slightly acidic (about same as vinegar).

--
Andrew Gabriel