What functions of the boiler are on the two circuit boards of my boiler
(Ravenheat RSF82E)? I know one is the control board, and the other is the
ignition board.

I have had a long term problem with the boiler stopping in it's light up
sequence just before the gas valve comes on, with 2 plumbers unable to
decide which component to replace. The gas comes on with a loud "clunk" so
I am pretty sure the solenoid is healthy, ie no half hearted / weak
operation.

Recently, this has been getting worse. It used to be that the boiler would
go for 1/2 an hour until it failed, and since there is no retry, it just
sits there blowing cold air through my heat exchanger. Recently, it is
getting so it is more often failing than working.

Another thing which has come up in the last couple of weeks is strange
on/off behaviour. It has been doing multiple clunks (2-5 times) when
lighting up, as well as seemingly ignoring the thermostat knob. There is no
click when the knob is turned, but the boiler fires up about once every
minute for about 20 seconds. It also fires up at the same rate during the
"CH timer off but pump running for a while" state, even though there is no
call for hot water. It never used to do this. All this paragraph's
problems seem to happen after it has warmed up a bit.

The boiler has never had the 3 minute lock out to stop short cycling.

The only suggestion I got from a plumber (previous to the last 2 weeks new
problems) that it may be the sensors on the inlet / outlet failing and
confusing the controller. Does this sound familiar to anyone?

Anyway, the main question is, do the above sound like there is a problem
with the controller board or the ignition board?

Thanks

Bob

On Sat, 10 Dec 2005 13:50:52 +0000, Bob Smith wrote:

What functions of the boiler are on the two circuit boards of my boiler
(Ravenheat RSF82E)? I know one is the control board, and the other is the
ignition board.

I have had a long term problem with the boiler stopping in it's light up
sequence just before the gas valve comes on, with 2 plumbers unable to
decide which component to replace. The gas comes on with a loud "clunk" so
I am pretty sure the solenoid is healthy, ie no half hearted / weak
operation.

Recently, this has been getting worse. It used to be that the boiler would
go for 1/2 an hour until it failed, and since there is no retry, it just
sits there blowing cold air through my heat exchanger. Recently, it is
getting so it is more often failing than working.

Another thing which has come up in the last couple of weeks is strange
on/off behaviour. It has been doing multiple clunks (2-5 times) when
lighting up, as well as seemingly ignoring the thermostat knob. There is no
click when the knob is turned, but the boiler fires up about once every
minute for about 20 seconds. It also fires up at the same rate during the
"CH timer off but pump running for a while" state, even though there is no
call for hot water. It never used to do this. All this paragraph's
problems seem to happen after it has warmed up a bit.

The boiler has never had the 3 minute lock out to stop short cycling.

The only suggestion I got from a plumber (previous to the last 2 weeks new
problems) that it may be the sensors on the inlet / outlet failing and
confusing the controller. Does this sound familiar to anyone?

Anyway, the main question is, do the above sound like there is a problem
with the controller board or the ignition board?

With this array of symptoms I wouldn't be sure there was one underlying
cause other than maybe one of the boards being marginally near failed.
However see below.

I've looked through the manual and it appears to be a fairly typical
type of combi boiler. I.e. It lights at a low rate and
detects the flame using the ignition probe and goes to a higher rate.

However It is possible that for some reason the air flow sensor is on the
blink either its inlets are dirty and/or the switch is failing.

As the boiler warms up the density of air through it drops and the
pressure due to air flow drops. This gets to the point where the APS is on
'edge' and the chattering is the gas valve dropping in/out/in/out in
response to the APS. I'd give a racing certainty that the gas valve
relay is more or less directly driven from the APS.

I'd try the following in increasing order of cost and see if you can get a
result.
1) Service the boiler.
2) Clean the inlet tubes to the APS. Check and clean the airways and
boiler in general if not done under 1.
3) Replace the APS
4) Replace the PCB.
5) Replace the ignition board.

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

In message , Bob Smith
writes
What functions of the boiler are on the two circuit boards of my boiler
(Ravenheat RSF82E)? I know one is the control board, and the other is the
ignition board.

I have had a long term problem with the boiler stopping in it's light up
sequence just before the gas valve comes on, with 2 plumbers unable to
decide which component to replace. The gas comes on with a loud "clunk" so
I am pretty sure the solenoid is healthy, ie no half hearted / weak
operation.


.... ... ...


Anyway, the main question is, do the above sound like there is a problem
with the controller board or the ignition board?

Difficult to say definitely, but it sounds to me more like the sequence
board. It doesn't keep sparking does it ? it could be the HT lead

--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Bob Smith
writes
What functions of the boiler are on the two circuit boards of my boiler
(Ravenheat RSF82E)? I know one is the control board, and the other is the
ignition board.

I have had a long term problem with the boiler stopping in it's light up
sequence just before the gas valve comes on, with 2 plumbers unable to
decide which component to replace. The gas comes on with a loud "clunk"
so
I am pretty sure the solenoid is healthy, ie no half hearted / weak
operation.


... ... ...


Anyway, the main question is, do the above sound like there is a problem
with the controller board or the ignition board?

Difficult to say definitely, but it sounds to me more like the sequence
board. It doesn't keep sparking does it ? it could be the HT lead

No, it only sparks after the gas valve goes clunk. Is the sequence board
the ignition board?

Bob

"Ed Sirett" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 10 Dec 2005 13:50:52 +0000, Bob Smith wrote:

What functions of the boiler are on the two circuit boards of my boiler
(Ravenheat RSF82E)? I know one is the control board, and the other is
the
ignition board.

I have had a long term problem with the boiler stopping in it's light up
sequence just before the gas valve comes on, with 2 plumbers unable to
decide which component to replace. The gas comes on with a loud "clunk"
so
I am pretty sure the solenoid is healthy, ie no half hearted / weak
operation.

Recently, this has been getting worse. It used to be that the boiler
would
go for 1/2 an hour until it failed, and since there is no retry, it just
sits there blowing cold air through my heat exchanger. Recently, it is
getting so it is more often failing than working.

Another thing which has come up in the last couple of weeks is strange
on/off behaviour. It has been doing multiple clunks (2-5 times) when
lighting up, as well as seemingly ignoring the thermostat knob. There is
no
click when the knob is turned, but the boiler fires up about once every
minute for about 20 seconds. It also fires up at the same rate during
the
"CH timer off but pump running for a while" state, even though there is
no
call for hot water. It never used to do this. All this paragraph's
problems seem to happen after it has warmed up a bit.

The boiler has never had the 3 minute lock out to stop short cycling.

The only suggestion I got from a plumber (previous to the last 2 weeks
new
problems) that it may be the sensors on the inlet / outlet failing and
confusing the controller. Does this sound familiar to anyone?

Anyway, the main question is, do the above sound like there is a problem
with the controller board or the ignition board?

With this array of symptoms I wouldn't be sure there was one underlying
cause other than maybe one of the boards being marginally near failed.
However see below.

I've looked through the manual and it appears to be a fairly typical
type of combi boiler. I.e. It lights at a low rate and
detects the flame using the ignition probe and goes to a higher rate.

However It is possible that for some reason the air flow sensor is on the
blink either its inlets are dirty and/or the switch is failing.

As the boiler warms up the density of air through it drops and the
pressure due to air flow drops. This gets to the point where the APS is on
'edge' and the chattering is the gas valve dropping in/out/in/out in
response to the APS. I'd give a racing certainty that the gas valve
relay is more or less directly driven from the APS.

I'd try the following in increasing order of cost and see if you can get a
result.
1) Service the boiler.
2) Clean the inlet tubes to the APS. Check and clean the airways and
boiler in general if not done under 1.
3) Replace the APS
4) Replace the PCB.
5) Replace the ignition board.

Thanks for that - I have completed steps 1-3, and am contemplating steps
4&5. So far, I have 1 vote for each (if sequence board = ignition board)

Bob

In message , Bob Smith
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Bob Smith
writes
What functions of the boiler are on the two circuit boards of my boiler
(Ravenheat RSF82E)? I know one is the control board, and the other is the
ignition board.

I have had a long term problem with the boiler stopping in it's light up
sequence just before the gas valve comes on, with 2 plumbers unable to
decide which component to replace. The gas comes on with a loud "clunk"
so
I am pretty sure the solenoid is healthy, ie no half hearted / weak
operation.


... ... ...


Anyway, the main question is, do the above sound like there is a problem
with the controller board or the ignition board?

Difficult to say definitely, but it sounds to me more like the sequence
board. It doesn't keep sparking does it ? it could be the HT lead

No, it only sparks after the gas valve goes clunk. Is the sequence board
the ignition board?


Yes (I tend to mix the terms)

It should spark at the same time as the pilot valve opens

You should have a look at your manual, it will show you what is
controlled by which board

Is your ignition pcb a red / black module which fits on the gas valve
with something like S4565TF 2006 written on it ?

--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Bob Smith
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Bob Smith
writes
What functions of the boiler are on the two circuit boards of my boiler
(Ravenheat RSF82E)? I know one is the control board, and the other is
the
ignition board.

I have had a long term problem with the boiler stopping in it's light up
sequence just before the gas valve comes on, with 2 plumbers unable to
decide which component to replace. The gas comes on with a loud "clunk"
so
I am pretty sure the solenoid is healthy, ie no half hearted / weak
operation.


... ... ...


Anyway, the main question is, do the above sound like there is a problem
with the controller board or the ignition board?

Difficult to say definitely, but it sounds to me more like the sequence
board. It doesn't keep sparking does it ? it could be the HT lead

No, it only sparks after the gas valve goes clunk. Is the sequence board
the ignition board?


Yes (I tend to mix the terms)

It should spark at the same time as the pilot valve opens

You should have a look at your manual, it will show you what is controlled
by which board

Is your ignition pcb a red / black module which fits on the gas valve with
something like S4565TF 2006 written on it ?

It is a green circuit board inside a blue plastic box, with a rubber seal
around the lid. The circuit board has a perpendicular bit on it that fits
over 4 spade connectors on the gas valve.

Bob

In message , Bob Smith
writes
Anyway, the main question is, do the above sound like there is a problem
with the controller board or the ignition board?

Difficult to say definitely, but it sounds to me more like the sequence
board. It doesn't keep sparking does it ? it could be the HT lead

No, it only sparks after the gas valve goes clunk. Is the sequence board
the ignition board?


Yes (I tend to mix the terms)

It should spark at the same time as the pilot valve opens

You should have a look at your manual, it will show you what is controlled
by which board

Is your ignition pcb a red / black module which fits on the gas valve with
something like S4565TF 2006 written on it ?

It is a green circuit board inside a blue plastic box, with a rubber seal
around the lid. The circuit board has a perpendicular bit on it that fits
over 4 spade connectors on the gas valve.

OK Sit EFD 503 or similar

It has an interconnection diagram on the box - which should show you
what its interface is, from which you should be able to make an educated
guess

--
geoff

On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 12:05:33 +0000, Bob Smith wrote:


"Ed Sirett" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 10 Dec 2005 13:50:52 +0000, Bob Smith wrote:

What functions of the boiler are on the two circuit boards of my boiler
(Ravenheat RSF82E)? I know one is the control board, and the other is
the
ignition board.

I have had a long term problem with the boiler stopping in it's light up
sequence just before the gas valve comes on, with 2 plumbers unable to
decide which component to replace. The gas comes on with a loud "clunk"
so
I am pretty sure the solenoid is healthy, ie no half hearted / weak
operation.

Recently, this has been getting worse. It used to be that the boiler
would
go for 1/2 an hour until it failed, and since there is no retry, it just
sits there blowing cold air through my heat exchanger. Recently, it is
getting so it is more often failing than working.

Another thing which has come up in the last couple of weeks is strange
on/off behaviour. It has been doing multiple clunks (2-5 times) when
lighting up, as well as seemingly ignoring the thermostat knob. There is
no
click when the knob is turned, but the boiler fires up about once every
minute for about 20 seconds. It also fires up at the same rate during
the
"CH timer off but pump running for a while" state, even though there is
no
call for hot water. It never used to do this. All this paragraph's
problems seem to happen after it has warmed up a bit.

The boiler has never had the 3 minute lock out to stop short cycling.

The only suggestion I got from a plumber (previous to the last 2 weeks
new
problems) that it may be the sensors on the inlet / outlet failing and
confusing the controller. Does this sound familiar to anyone?

Anyway, the main question is, do the above sound like there is a problem
with the controller board or the ignition board?

With this array of symptoms I wouldn't be sure there was one underlying
cause other than maybe one of the boards being marginally near failed.
However see below.

I've looked through the manual and it appears to be a fairly typical
type of combi boiler. I.e. It lights at a low rate and
detects the flame using the ignition probe and goes to a higher rate.

However It is possible that for some reason the air flow sensor is on the
blink either its inlets are dirty and/or the switch is failing.

As the boiler warms up the density of air through it drops and the
pressure due to air flow drops. This gets to the point where the APS is on
'edge' and the chattering is the gas valve dropping in/out/in/out in
response to the APS. I'd give a racing certainty that the gas valve
relay is more or less directly driven from the APS.

I'd try the following in increasing order of cost and see if you can get a
result.
1) Service the boiler.
2) Clean the inlet tubes to the APS. Check and clean the airways and
boiler in general if not done under 1.
3) Replace the APS
4) Replace the PCB.
5) Replace the ignition board.

Thanks for that - I have completed steps 1-3, and am contemplating steps
4&5. So far, I have 1 vote for each (if sequence board = ignition board)

The mother board is probably the more expensive and the more likely.
The flame detection probably has some time delay built in - i.e. 10
seconds with no flame goes to lockout.
Ergo the problem is more likely the main board.


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

"Ed Sirett" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 12:05:33 +0000, Bob Smith wrote:


"Ed Sirett" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 10 Dec 2005 13:50:52 +0000, Bob Smith wrote:

What functions of the boiler are on the two circuit boards of my boiler
(Ravenheat RSF82E)? I know one is the control board, and the other is
the
ignition board.

I have had a long term problem with the boiler stopping in it's light
up
sequence just before the gas valve comes on, with 2 plumbers unable to
decide which component to replace. The gas comes on with a loud
"clunk"
so
I am pretty sure the solenoid is healthy, ie no half hearted / weak
operation.

Recently, this has been getting worse. It used to be that the boiler
would
go for 1/2 an hour until it failed, and since there is no retry, it
just
sits there blowing cold air through my heat exchanger. Recently, it is
getting so it is more often failing than working.

Another thing which has come up in the last couple of weeks is strange
on/off behaviour. It has been doing multiple clunks (2-5 times) when
lighting up, as well as seemingly ignoring the thermostat knob. There
is
no
click when the knob is turned, but the boiler fires up about once every
minute for about 20 seconds. It also fires up at the same rate during
the
"CH timer off but pump running for a while" state, even though there is
no
call for hot water. It never used to do this. All this paragraph's
problems seem to happen after it has warmed up a bit.

The boiler has never had the 3 minute lock out to stop short cycling.

The only suggestion I got from a plumber (previous to the last 2 weeks
new
problems) that it may be the sensors on the inlet / outlet failing and
confusing the controller. Does this sound familiar to anyone?

Anyway, the main question is, do the above sound like there is a
problem
with the controller board or the ignition board?

With this array of symptoms I wouldn't be sure there was one underlying
cause other than maybe one of the boards being marginally near failed.
However see below.

I've looked through the manual and it appears to be a fairly typical
type of combi boiler. I.e. It lights at a low rate and
detects the flame using the ignition probe and goes to a higher rate.

However It is possible that for some reason the air flow sensor is on
the
blink either its inlets are dirty and/or the switch is failing.

As the boiler warms up the density of air through it drops and the
pressure due to air flow drops. This gets to the point where the APS is
on
'edge' and the chattering is the gas valve dropping in/out/in/out in
response to the APS. I'd give a racing certainty that the gas valve
relay is more or less directly driven from the APS.

I'd try the following in increasing order of cost and see if you can get
a
result.
1) Service the boiler.
2) Clean the inlet tubes to the APS. Check and clean the airways and
boiler in general if not done under 1.
3) Replace the APS
4) Replace the PCB.
5) Replace the ignition board.

Thanks for that - I have completed steps 1-3, and am contemplating steps
4&5. So far, I have 1 vote for each (if sequence board = ignition board)

The mother board is probably the more expensive and the more likely.
The flame detection probably has some time delay built in - i.e. 10
seconds with no flame goes to lockout.
Ergo the problem is more likely the main board.


It's not the main board. I replaced it today, and all the strange symptoms
are still there.

Could it be the solenoid on the gas valve, or the ignition board?

Bob

In message , Bob Smith
writes


The mother board is probably the more expensive and the more likely.
The flame detection probably has some time delay built in - i.e. 10
seconds with no flame goes to lockout.
Ergo the problem is more likely the main board.


It's not the main board. I replaced it today, and all the strange symptoms
are still there.

Could it be the solenoid on the gas valve, or the ignition board?

Did I not mention earlier to measure the resistance of the solenoid ?

You're asking questions that people can only guess at without you
providing more information


--
geoff

I would check by replacement the electrode cable, also does the pilot
establish at all? If the boiler is failiing during the igntion sequence
then it is unlikely to be the control board. It would also be worth
will inspecting the pilot injector to ensure it is clear of any debris.
Failing that then replacement of the Ignition board would be the only
logical course of action. By what you have described above the gas
valve is operating OK. It is not likely to be a sensing problem or an
air pressure switch problem, if the APS was faulty then the boiler
would not get as far as ignition in the first place.

Belly

"Belly" wrote in message
oups.com...
I would check by replacement the electrode cable, also does the pilot
establish at all? If the boiler is failiing during the igntion sequence
then it is unlikely to be the control board. It would also be worth
will inspecting the pilot injector to ensure it is clear of any debris.
Failing that then replacement of the Ignition board would be the only
logical course of action. By what you have described above the gas
valve is operating OK. It is not likely to be a sensing problem or an
air pressure switch problem, if the APS was faulty then the boiler
would not get as far as ignition in the first place.

Belly


I don't think it is the electrode - the normal order of events is: fan on,
small click (APS), clunk (gas valve), tik tik tik (spark) whumph (loads of
flames). When the boiler is not lighting, it does not open the gas valve,
so does not get as far as sparking up.

I fixed the multiple clunking - wobbling the thermistor connector made it
happen. It seems to be off for so short a time, the ignition sequence is
not stopped, and the gas valve is opened again. When I recreated the
multiple clunk thing, it also made it go into silly mode (ignoring
temperature dial of thermistor, lighting up in pump run on time etc). The
loose connection was not in the wire, but between the plig and socket, so I
bent the pins slightly to make a more permanent connection.

Which bit makes you think the gas valve is OK? Is it the solid CLUNK, with
no weak ones ever, or the fact that it lights at all (ie is the solenoid
likely to cause an intermittent fault like the one I have?)

Bob

On Sun, 15 Jan 2006 15:50:44 +0000, Bob Smith wrote:


"Belly" wrote in message
oups.com...
I would check by replacement the electrode cable, also does the pilot
establish at all? If the boiler is failiing during the igntion sequence
then it is unlikely to be the control board. It would also be worth
will inspecting the pilot injector to ensure it is clear of any debris.
Failing that then replacement of the Ignition board would be the only
logical course of action. By what you have described above the gas
valve is operating OK. It is not likely to be a sensing problem or an
air pressure switch problem, if the APS was faulty then the boiler
would not get as far as ignition in the first place.

Belly


I don't think it is the electrode - the normal order of events is: fan on,
small click (APS), clunk (gas valve), tik tik tik (spark) whumph (loads of
flames). When the boiler is not lighting, it does not open the gas valve,
so does not get as far as sparking up.

I fixed the multiple clunking - wobbling the thermistor connector made it
happen. It seems to be off for so short a time, the ignition sequence is
not stopped, and the gas valve is opened again. When I recreated the
multiple clunk thing, it also made it go into silly mode (ignoring
temperature dial of thermistor, lighting up in pump run on time etc). The
loose connection was not in the wire, but between the plig and socket, so I
bent the pins slightly to make a more permanent connection.

Which bit makes you think the gas valve is OK? Is it the solid CLUNK, with
no weak ones ever, or the fact that it lights at all (ie is the solenoid
likely to cause an intermittent fault like the one I have?)

I see from the previous posts that you replaced the APS. Does this give
the correct readings each and every time?
Have a look at the inlet tubes to the APS they can attract debris which
totally screws them up.

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html

"Ed Sirett" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 15 Jan 2006 15:50:44 +0000, Bob Smith wrote:


"Belly" wrote in message
oups.com...
I would check by replacement the electrode cable, also does the pilot
establish at all? If the boiler is failiing during the igntion sequence
then it is unlikely to be the control board. It would also be worth
will inspecting the pilot injector to ensure it is clear of any debris.
Failing that then replacement of the Ignition board would be the only
logical course of action. By what you have described above the gas
valve is operating OK. It is not likely to be a sensing problem or an
air pressure switch problem, if the APS was faulty then the boiler
would not get as far as ignition in the first place.

Belly


I don't think it is the electrode - the normal order of events is: fan
on,
small click (APS), clunk (gas valve), tik tik tik (spark) whumph (loads
of
flames). When the boiler is not lighting, it does not open the gas
valve,
so does not get as far as sparking up.

I fixed the multiple clunking - wobbling the thermistor connector made it
happen. It seems to be off for so short a time, the ignition sequence is
not stopped, and the gas valve is opened again. When I recreated the
multiple clunk thing, it also made it go into silly mode (ignoring
temperature dial of thermistor, lighting up in pump run on time etc).
The
loose connection was not in the wire, but between the plig and socket, so
I
bent the pins slightly to make a more permanent connection.

Which bit makes you think the gas valve is OK? Is it the solid CLUNK,
with
no weak ones ever, or the fact that it lights at all (ie is the solenoid
likely to cause an intermittent fault like the one I have?)

I see from the previous posts that you replaced the APS. Does this give
the correct readings each and every time?
Have a look at the inlet tubes to the APS they can attract debris which
totally screws them up.

I had the pipes off, and they were clean. I also poked through the venturi
to make sure it was clear. The APS seems to click when the fan has been on
for a few seconds (it sounds like a microswitch click). I do hear the click
when it is in a non lighting mood. I had a play with both the old and new,
and it does take a while for the gubbins to move and activate the switch.

Bob

"Belly" wrote in message
oups.com...
I would check by replacement the electrode cable, also does the pilot
establish at all? If the boiler is failiing during the igntion sequence
then it is unlikely to be the control board. It would also be worth
will inspecting the pilot injector to ensure it is clear of any debris.
Failing that then replacement of the Ignition board would be the only
logical course of action. By what you have described above the gas
valve is operating OK. It is not likely to be a sensing problem or an
air pressure switch problem, if the APS was faulty then the boiler
would not get as far as ignition in the first place.

Belly


I am beginning to suspect the gas valve (or at least the solenoid). It has
started to make a loud buzzing noise occasionally. Also, I don't remember
the boiler at my last house opening the gas valve with such a loud clang,
more of a soft tick noise.

Is it a simple job to swap the solenoid off a new gas valve without having
to turn the gas off? I know they are sold as a gas valve with solenoid
complete thing, but if it is the solenoid, it would be convenient to just
change that bit.

Bob

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Bob Smith
writes


The mother board is probably the more expensive and the more likely.
The flame detection probably has some time delay built in - i.e. 10
seconds with no flame goes to lockout.
Ergo the problem is more likely the main board.


It's not the main board. I replaced it today, and all the strange
symptoms
are still there.

Could it be the solenoid on the gas valve, or the ignition board?

Did I not mention earlier to measure the resistance of the solenoid ?

You're asking questions that people can only guess at without you
providing more information

OK, I measured across the 4 pins. 1 is not connected, but the resistance
between the other 3 pins is 0.86Kohm, 0.87Kohm and 1.73Kohm (I assume this
is across both in series).

Does this help?

Bob

In message , Bob Smith
writes
Could it be the solenoid on the gas valve, or the ignition board?

Did I not mention earlier to measure the resistance of the solenoid ?

You're asking questions that people can only guess at without you
providing more information

OK, I measured across the 4 pins. 1 is not connected, but the resistance
between the other 3 pins is 0.86Kohm, 0.87Kohm and 1.73Kohm (I assume this
is across both in series).

So it looks like the solenoid's OK

Are there volts to the solenoid when there should be

.... and what boiler ?

I've forgotten

--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Bob Smith
writes
Could it be the solenoid on the gas valve, or the ignition board?

Did I not mention earlier to measure the resistance of the solenoid ?

You're asking questions that people can only guess at without you
providing more information

OK, I measured across the 4 pins. 1 is not connected, but the resistance
between the other 3 pins is 0.86Kohm, 0.87Kohm and 1.73Kohm (I assume this
is across both in series).

So it looks like the solenoid's OK

Are there volts to the solenoid when there should be

... and what boiler ?

I've forgotten

It was a Ravenheat RSF82E. We were tyring to decide if it was the solenoid
not working, or the ignition board not telling it to work. The boiler was
failing to light up part way through the ignition sequence. I only just got
to borrow a multimeter.

Anyway, I took the ignition board off, and wrapped wires around the solenoid
prongs, and put the ignition board box back on (no other way to get to the
solenoid pins). I had the other end of the wires taped down, so I have no
idea why a relay rent bang, and blew a fuse (the multimeter was set to
volts, and there was no way of shorting the wires).

Bugger. Dead boiler. 1/2 an hour before LP supplies shuts (Ravenheat's
trade counter) so I nipped up the road (I live in Morley) and bought another
ignition board (and some odd sized fuses). I would have preferred to get
one off ebay for £35, but was forced to get one there and then.

I bunged it in, and for 2 days (it was an intermittent problem) the boiler
has been behaving.

Yay!

Bob