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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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Iron Waste Pipe
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Iron Waste Pipe
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Iron Waste Pipe
I have a similar problem, although I have to couple a copper pipe from
a Saniflow to the cast iron pipe and cannot get a strap around the pipe... So, does anyone know how you would go about coupling a 22mm (or possibly 32mm if my route is 12m - touch and go) copper waste pipe from a Saniflow to an old cast iron soil stack. As it stands I would have to drill a suitable hole in the stack, then couple it some how. This is the bit I'm unsure about. The only complication is that I only have access to one 'side' of the stack. There has been an extension on the house and the soil pipe now runs down partially behind the wall of the extension: house _____________ house wall ______|O ---soil stack (I can get to this side of it) - | extension | | | My rudimentary diagram does not show that the 3 walls that surround the stack are very tight against it and all cemmented up to the pipe, so I don't think I could get any strap type fitting round the pipe. Really appreciate any advise on this. Thanks in advance. |
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Iron Waste Pipe
In article , Flat Eric
writes I have a similar problem, although I have to couple a copper pipe from a Saniflow to the cast iron pipe and cannot get a strap around the pipe... So, does anyone know how you would go about coupling a 22mm (or possibly 32mm if my route is 12m - touch and go) copper waste pipe from a Saniflow to an old cast iron soil stack. As it stands I would have to drill a suitable hole in the stack, then couple it some how. This is the bit I'm unsure about. The only complication is that I only have access to one 'side' of the stack. There has been an extension on the house and the soil pipe now runs down partially behind the wall of the extension: house _____________ house wall ______|O ---soil stack (I can get to this side of it) - | extension | | | My rudimentary diagram does not show that the 3 walls that surround the stack are very tight against it and all cemmented up to the pipe, so I don't think I could get any strap type fitting round the pipe. Really appreciate any advise on this. Thanks in advance. Yes, I did see your earlier post, but I'm afraid I didn't have much in the way of positive comment and so left you to it. I think the only way to make a reliable connection is to use a boss. If that is the case, then you need to make room to fit one, even if that means hiring an SDS blaster to make room to fit one. You can make good the render/brickwork after the even. Two other points, you don't really want a right angle bend in the pipe just before joining the stack so maybe that means working from inside the house & removing bricks until you can make a straight connection to the stack. Also, why copper, it's not the normal way to do things so as a result there won't be fittings to do the job. Suggest you do it in waste pipe of the appropriate size and if you need to make a copper to waste pipe joint, do it near the start & away from the already difficult brickwork & boss muddle. Hope that helps, but there may be better solutions, if I was to see the problem & perhaps take a step back I might end up with a different slant and a better one. Regards, -- fred |
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Iron Waste Pipe
Thanks very much for all your comments Fred, they were useful. I have
a few more questions in response I think the only way to make a reliable connection is to use a boss. If that is the case, then you need to make room to fit one, even if that means hiring an SDS blaster to make room to fit one. You can make good the render/brickwork after the even. OK I'll have to have a good look to see whether this is feasible in the space I have to work with - it's very tight. you don't really want a right angle bend in the pipe just before joining the stack Why is that? I understand that bends in general should be swept bends and not right angle, but what's the significance of proximity to the stack exactly? so maybe that means working from inside the house & removing bricks until you can make a straight connection to the stack. This could be interesting - I have a fitted kitchen on the other side of the wall! The soil stack may just coincide with the Dishwasher bay though. Also, why copper, it's not the normal way to do things so as a result there won't be fittings to do the job. Suggest you do it in waste pipe of the appropriate size and I understand that using 22mm copper is the best way of plumbing Saniflow waste (as it is more robust than solvent-weld plastic). I don't think it's that uncommon, therefore I assumed that someone may have come across the same problem - joining 22mm copper to cast iron stack to make a copper to (40mm plastic) waste pipe joint Are there fittings to join 22mm copper to say 40mm plastic waste? |
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Iron Waste Pipe
In article , Flat
Eric writes Thanks very much for all your comments Fred, they were useful. I have a few more questions in response You're welcome, but I am winging it here, I have no experience of saniflo at all, hence my initial reluctance to respond. I think the only way to make a reliable connection is to use a boss. If that is the case, then you need to make room to fit one, even if that means hiring an SDS blaster to make room to fit one. You can make good the render/brickwork after the even. OK I'll have to have a good look to see whether this is feasible in the space I have to work with - it's very tight. you don't really want a right angle bend in the pipe just before joining the stack Why is that? I understand that bends in general should be swept bends and not right angle, but what's the significance of proximity to the stack exactly? My thoughts were that if it is going to block then it will do so at the 90deg bend and had also assumed that you would be taking it straight through the wall just before you bent it into the stack. That would make for a join near impossible to dismantle and assess for blockage. Best to make potential problem areas accessible for service. so maybe that means working from inside the house & removing bricks until you can make a straight connection to the stack. This could be interesting - I have a fitted kitchen on the other side of the wall! The soil stack may just coincide with the Dishwasher bay though. On reflection, this is probably a bit daft as it would blow any chance of serviceability. Also, why copper, it's not the normal way to do things so as a result there won't be fittings to do the job. Suggest you do it in waste pipe of the appropriate size and I understand that using 22mm copper is the best way of plumbing Saniflow waste (as it is more robust than solvent-weld plastic). I don't think it's that uncommon, therefore I assumed that someone may have come across the same problem - joining 22mm copper to cast iron stack Again not my area, but 22mm does seem very small, is this just a shower type or a toilet? Also, I would have thought that plastic would have a smoother interface at the joints, less risk of burrs/blockage aaaaand serviceability again, a few non solvent joints in the plastic would let you dismantle if required. to make a copper to (40mm plastic) waste pipe joint Are there fittings to join 22mm copper to say 40mm plastic waste? You can get rubber reducers from 40mm to 21.5mm plastic (20mm overflow pipe) that may suit, but I certainly wouldn't trust such a joint to any kind of pressure. Perhaps if it was the joint at the stack then it would be ok, so that would be boss, solvent adaptor to 40mm then 40/21.5 rubber reducer but def don't make it concealed anywhere Again, hope that helps . . . . some -- fred |
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Iron Waste Pipe
fred wrote in message ...
In article , Flat Eric writes Thanks very much for all your comments Fred, they were useful. I have a few more questions in response You're welcome, but I am winging it here, I have no experience of saniflo at all, hence my initial reluctance to respond. A sounding board for ideas is a good thing atleast. May be prompt someone else to post to the thread, so we all pool knowledge/common sense - what this is all about eh? you don't really want a right angle bend in the pipe just before joining the stack Why is that? I understand that bends in general should be swept bends and not right angle, but what's the significance of proximity to the stack exactly? My thoughts were that if it is going to block then it will do so at the 90deg bend and had also assumed that you would be taking it straight through the wall just before you bent it into the stack. That would make for a join near impossible to dismantle and assess for blockage. Best to make potential problem areas accessible for service. Fair enough. May be fitting an equal tee with an acces plug for rodding between boss onto soil pipe and swept bend through wall would be advisable. Avoiding 90 deg bends and allowing access Also, why copper, it's not the normal way to do things so as a result there won't be fittings to do the job. Suggest you do it in waste pipe of the appropriate size and I understand that using 22mm copper is the best way of plumbing Saniflow waste (as it is more robust than solvent-weld plastic). I don't think it's that uncommon, therefore I assumed that someone may have come across the same problem - joining 22mm copper to cast iron stack Again not my area, but 22mm does seem very small, I have to agree on this, but think this reason is one of robustness. Need to do some more probing here eg talking to my local Saniflow stockist etc. It is for a toilet pump. Since using copper for Saniflow waste does appear to be recommended [from Saniflow website "All pipework should be either copper or CPVC conforming to BS7291. Do not use flexible or push-fit pipework. " ], there must be a recomended methdo of connection to the stack...? Anyone??? Also, I would have thought that plastic would have a smoother interface at the joints, less risk of burrs/blockage d'you reckon? IMHO, not sure there'd be much in it myself... aaaaand serviceability again, a few non solvent joints in the plastic would let you dismantle if required. Personally dont like the idea of having any push-fit joins for a Saniflow - certainly not inside the house anyway. May be a good argument for solvent plastic is than you *can* fit occasional equal tee and access plugs along the route to allow for rodding as I have commented above. I suppose you could do the same with a compression fitting/speedfit stop end on copper to make a copper to (40mm plastic) waste pipe joint Are there fittings to join 22mm copper to say 40mm plastic waste? You can get rubber reducers from 40mm to 21.5mm plastic (20mm overflow pipe) that may suit, but I certainly wouldn't trust such a joint to any kind of pressure. Quite! 10 bar I think the motor runs at! Perhaps if it was the joint at the stack then it would be ok, so that would be boss, solvent adaptor to 40mm then 40/21.5 rubber reducer but def don't make it concealed anywhere Could insert such an adapter fitting after the swept solvent bend, down to copper, with the copper running at 45 deg though the wall and just emerging to make the adapter ie potentially dodgy connection *outside*. [There must be a better way of doing this....?] Again, hope that helps . . . . some Yes thanks very much - has got me thinking at the very least! |
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Iron Waste Pipe
I know I'm answering my own post here, but for anyone else who's
interested, I posed some remaining queries with Saniflow technical advice. Here are the answers, with the questions below: Thank you for your enquiry, In answer for your questions: - 1. Either is fine 2. Yes 3. Yes, Hunter Plastics manufacture one, and there are others, please contact your local plumbers merchants. 4. As long as you stick to the guidelines, the pipework should be fine for a number of years (i.e. 10-30) but it may be subject to sediment/limescale buildup eventually 5. You can insert a T-Piece and this will aid rodding should the need ever arise, unfortunately we are not aware of a particular 22mm rodding system, but there is an air pressure system. 6. You would require a 22 or 32mm strap-on boss (in conjunction with a 22/33mm reducer) which you can get from your local plumbers merchants. If you have any further questions, please do not hesistate to contact us, Thank you, SANIFLO TECHNICAL -----Original Message----- Sent: 27 August 2003 13:47 To: Subject: Waste pipe Could you clarify 1 or 2 things for me please: I am planning to install a Sanitop (basement). I can get the required fall etc. Have a 2.5m vertical lift followed by approx 10m run at the 1:200 fall specified to the soil pipe. The 'horizontal' run only requires 2 swept 135 deg bends to go through the wall and into the soil stack - which is good. 1. it isn't clear is whether the 22mm waste pipe is copper or CPVC. 2. is CPVC solvent weld? 3. I am only aware of 32mm and 40mm sizes for solvent weld - does 22mm exist? 4. 22mm seems very narrow - is there any risk of blockage? 5. servicability: would it be a good idea to insert the occasional tee and end stop to gain access for rodding? Is there anything small enough to rod a 22mm pipe with? Would such a fitting create unneccessary turbulence/drag therefore increase the chance of blockages occuring in the first place? 6. finally how would you make the connection with the soil stack? I have an old cast iron soil stack Thanks very much in advance. I understand it is very important to install these units correctly and want to get it right 1st time. |
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