http://www.hunterplastics.co.uk/traps.html it is shown on the purple
pictuer to the left. Met the owner at the self build show in Brum and he
explained it to me which is how I know.

Cheers
Jonathan

"Jonathan@Home" wrote in message ...
http://www.hunterplastics.co.uk/traps.html it is shown on the purple
pictuer to the left. Met the owner at the self build show in Brum and he
explained it to me which is how I know.

Cheers
Jonathan

Thanks Jonathan,

Unfortunatley i don't even have room for one of these space saving
connectors! I've resigned myself to using the existing connection and
building a cabinet
out behind the toilet, either this or building a 5" step to sit the
pan on. I really don't like the idea of taking a grinder to the
ceramic pipe.

Cheers
Paul

"Paul Jackson" wrote in message
om...
I want to replace my current ground floor toilet with a new
close-couple version. To do this the toilet needs moving backwards by
approx 1ft, which means the waste pipe coming out of the floor also
needs moving back by about 1 foot.

My problem is that the waste pipe is a ceramic one embedded within
concrete under the floorboards to such an extent that you can only see
the end where it comes up vertically into the toilet. There is not
enough room to do anything with the waste pipe above the concreted
section, mainly as the new toilet will need to sit where the current
waste pipe exits the floor.

I think my only option is to build a cabinet between the cistern and
the wall to 'fill the space' but i was wondering if it would be
possible to grind through the concrete and the pipe under the floor
and then install a plastic waste pipe extension into it. If i was to
do this i am concerned with the joint between the ceramic pipe and the
plastic, i.e is the ceramic going to accept standard size plastic
waste, will it be water tight and also the implications of grinding
through the ceramic pipe!!

Any help greatly appreciated!!!!!

Hi Paul,

I had to do exactly this. The glazed clay pipe came out of the concrete slab
and rose through the void of the suspended floor. The new wc had a concealed
cistern and was much nearer the wall than the original.

Took up plenty of floor boards to get an angle grinder in below floor level
and cut round as much of the pipe as possible (about two thirds) scored the
rest using a tile saw blade in a hacksaw. A sharp blow on the top of the
pipe with the hand and it snapped off clean.

If you have enough pipe exposed above slab level then the ideal way is to
fit a rubber collar to convert from clay to PVC then site the pan outlet to
suit. My guess is, you will find is that this is not possible, due to lack
of space.

What I did was to use a finned push fit flexible pan connector into the clay
pipe below floor level, which then rose out through the floor straight onto
the wc spigot. This was ok for a concealed cistern as the back of the loo
was all boxed in.

Whatever connection you make will be below ground and not easily accessible.
You must make sure that it is firmly secured to the clay pipe.

I cut the clay pipe just above a socket, so was able to secure the finned
connector firmly to the clay pipe using heavy gauge cable ties.

Bill