An update from previous posts about why some of my sash windows stay
up, and some don't (all have had additional sheets of glass put in).

I've taken one window out and given it a good seeing to, removing the
addtional pane of glass. This glass was 6mm, and weighs what I think
is called by the experts 'a ****ing ton'. The sash weights had come
unattached on this window account of the cords snapping - no surprise
there.

The one thing that intrigues me is that the window itself looks
designed to have that additional sheet glazed on the inside. Unless
the person did a really good job of inserting thin strips of wood into
which to fit it.


Mark Watson

If they're old then he might have routered out the moulding on the
inside to make a rebate - you might be ale to tell if you look at the
corners where there might be something like a masons 'mitre' or similar
bodge. Or they might be newer replacements made that way.

You will notice pockets inside the lower part of the sides of the
window.

You can get these open by raising the sashes and removing the "parting
bead" a strip of stock 6mm timber readily available from builders
yards.

Lift the first sash and pin or wedge it in place. Pull out the beads
with a painters scraper/ putty knife or a thin chisel. (It may be
pinned with 1 1/2 ovals.)

Lift the other sash and pin or wedge. pull out pocket. These are
usually pushed fitted and held in place by trhe parting bead. But some
fool may have pinned them too.

Pull out the weight and replace with heavier or with some lead fishing
eight over the top slid down over the new cord.

New cord has to be stretched before use. Tie it to wall and put your
weight on it a few times.

Use a linen string with a small strip of lead (a "mouse") to pull the
cord down over the pulleys. Tie it to the weight, cut to the same
lengths -or an half inch or so less than the original and tack to the
sash. (Having marked where the last length reached that is.)

It is not "done" to paint the sides of the windows nor the insides of
the sash. However, in a refurb, you might give it a lick of undecoat.
(Given a day to thoroughly dry, wax it with spray furniture polish or
rub with a candle, for all the maintenance it needs.

Feed the weights back in an put the pockets back and replace the
parting bead or buy new. There may be some difference in the sizes of
new stuff and that will require judicial adjustments that may have to
include pinning it.

Weatherlawyer wrote:
You will notice pockets inside the lower part of the sides of the
window.

You can get these open by raising the sashes and removing the "parting
bead" a strip of stock 6mm timber readily available from builders
yards.
You can't always assume 6mm so you might need to run it through a
thicknesser to get it spot on - needs to be a nice push fit so you need
to clean the slot carefully too - too tight and you risk splitting the
pulley stile

Lift the first sash and pin or wedge it in place. Pull out the beads
with a painters scraper/ putty knife or a thin chisel. (It may be
pinned with 1 1/2 ovals.)
You will have to remove the staff bead too as it usually overlaps the
pocket piece. Old parting bead can be bugger to remove but best done
carefully to avoid replacing with new wrong size
Shouldn't be nailed, do not use any fixings when you re-fit

Lift the other sash and pin or wedge. pull out pocket. These are
usually pushed fitted and held in place by trhe parting bead. But some
fool may have pinned them too.

Often screwed - use a brass screw if necessary a size larger than
previous one


Pull out the weight and replace with heavier or with some lead fishing
eight over the top slid down over the new cord.

Weigh sashes - weights for top should be slightly heavier and vice
versa

New cord has to be stretched before use. Tie it to wall and put your
weight on it a few times.

Use a linen string with a small strip of lead (a "mouse") to pull the
cord down over the pulleys. Tie it to the weight, cut to the same
lengths -or an half inch or so less than the original and tack to the
sash. (Having marked where the last length reached that is.)
Adjust cords so that they are at the top (inch of slack say) when the
sash is at the bottom

It is not "done" to paint the sides of the windows nor the insides of
the sash. However, in a refurb, you might give it a lick of undecoat.
(Given a day to thoroughly dry, wax it with spray furniture polish or
rub with a candle, for all the maintenance it needs.

Edges of sash never painted but everything visible is.

Feed the weights back in an put the pockets back and replace the
parting bead or buy new. There may be some difference in the sizes of
new stuff and that will require judicial adjustments that may have to
include pinning it.

Don't pin - it will split or bulge etc

Replace staff bead with about 3mm clearance for the whole run of the
bottom sash. If you put a new catch on make sure it pulls together
firmly to stop rattling. Can be useful to strip off all meeting
surfaces if paint is lumpy and repaint to make good fit esp meeting
rail. A tightish catch will cause them to grip the staff bead and not
rattle. Don't use those 'snail shell' type catches but go for old
fashioned lever.

cheers

Jacob

wrote in message
oups.com...


Replace staff bead with about 3mm clearance for the whole run of the
bottom sash.

That seems a very large clearance.

If you put a new catch on make sure it pulls together
firmly to stop rattling. Can be useful to strip off all meeting
surfaces if paint is lumpy and repaint to make good fit esp meeting
rail. A tightish catch will cause them to grip the staff bead and not
rattle.


Don't use those 'snail shell' type catches
Why not?
but go for old fashioned lever.

Toby