My apologies if this is a very basic question but we all have to start
somewhere.

I need to replace a wooden 'Georgian' style window that is rotten. I
know how to get it out but have never fitted a double glazed unit
before. How does the frame fasten to the wall to make it secure- the
old one simply has nails driven through and the heads filled and
painted over.
Is this how a wooden sealed unit fixes ? Does the glass come out first
and the refix it in the frame after fitting that ?

Is it a DIY or have I to call in the 'Professionals" ?

Thanks

Brian

In message . com,
writes

I need to replace a wooden 'Georgian' style window that is rotten. I
know how to get it out but have never fitted a double glazed unit
before. How does the frame fasten to the wall to make it secure- the
old one simply has nails driven through and the heads filled and
painted over.
Is this how a wooden sealed unit fixes ?

you could nail it, but the normal way is to use frame fixings. basically
drill a hole through the frame, then one into the wall . Insert fixing
and hammer home - IME you will want to countersink the hole to take the
head of the ;ug and fixing if want a neat job. Seal around the frame
with expanding foam and finish off outside with bead of sealant.

Does the glass come out first
and the refix it in the frame after fitting that ?

Yes, in fact I'd expect it to be supplied separately - mine was.

The glazing can be fixed in various ways. best is to use glazing tape
(or whatever it was called, basically a self adhesive tape) and gazing
silicone. though you can use silicone or there is a mastic you spread on
with knife you can use which I found total pain to use.

Is it a DIY or have I to call in the 'Professionals" ?

I've DIY-ed two, though I wouldn't suggest it as a first job. It's not
particularly difficult job, though can be a bit awkward at times.
--
Chris French

I just DIY'ed a double glazed window in my bathroom - was my first one.

The main thing I'd say is to measure it correctly - this site has some
good tips... http://www.u-fit.co.uk/windows/fitting/FittingGuide.asp

The only cock up I made was to order a window cill that was to shallow
( 100mm ) should have been 150mm. Managed to sort it with a bit of
creativity though.

Mine came with the glass separate - in fact the hardest part of the
whole job was getting the beads that hold the glass in out of the frame
and fitting them back in again. I'm sure there is a knack to bead
removal / fitting. Caused the air to turn very blue doing that part.

On the subject of beads ( the plastic bits that clip in to hold the
glass ) I read somewhere that you should fit them top, bottom then
sides. I'd say it's easier to fit the shortest beads first then the
longest. Doing it this way you can bend the longest beads into place.


Cheers

ETV

wrote:
My apologies if this is a very basic question but we all have to start
somewhere.

I need to replace a wooden 'Georgian' style window that is rotten. I
know how to get it out but have never fitted a double glazed unit
before. How does the frame fasten to the wall to make it secure- the
old one simply has nails driven through and the heads filled and
painted over.
Is this how a wooden sealed unit fixes ? Does the glass come out first
and the refix it in the frame after fitting that ?

Is it a DIY or have I to call in the 'Professionals" ?

Thanks

Brian

Thanks Chris, doesn't sound too daunting. I'll have a close study of
units at DIY stores this week and see how they fit. If the glass and
frame come as two separate pieces (which I didn't realise ) then it
should be OK.

Cheers

Brian

Oh, one other tip I picked up was not to use frame fixings through the
top of the frame as you might crack the lintel.

ETV

In message . com, Eric
The Viking writes
I just DIY'ed a double glazed window in my bathroom - was my first one.

The main thing I'd say is to measure it correctly - this site has some
good tips... http://www.u-fit.co.uk/windows/fitting/FittingGuide.asp


This is about plastic windows, some bits are applicable but some bits
wouldn't be. Just remember this when reeading it.

Wickes' Good Ideas leaflets are prety good, they used to ahve one on
fitting windows, you can get pdf's he

http://www.wickes.co.uk/scat/goodideas
--
Chris French

In message , chris French
writes
In message . com, Eric
The Viking writes
I just DIY'ed a double glazed window in my bathroom - was my first one.

The main thing I'd say is to measure it correctly - this site has some
good tips... http://www.u-fit.co.uk/windows/fitting/FittingGuide.asp


This is about plastic windows, some bits are applicable but some bits
wouldn't be. Just remember this when reeading it.

Wickes' Good Ideas leaflets are prety good, they used to ahve one on
fitting windows, you can get pdf's he

http://www.wickes.co.uk/scat/goodideas

Scat ?



--
geoff

wrote:
Thanks Chris, doesn't sound too daunting. I'll have a close study of
units at DIY stores this week and see how they fit. If the glass and
frame come as two separate pieces (which I didn't realise ) then it
should be OK.

Cheers

Brian

As far as the windows from Wickes are concerned (I wouls expect other
DIY units to be similar), the glass is fitted (held in place by the
beads) but with the protective strip covering the adhesive tape still
fitted. When you remove the beads, the glass comes out - you then fit
the frame, remove the adhesive tape covering and refit the glass and beads.

The trick we found was to line up the glass with spacers with the tape
covering still fitted, because once the glass sticks to the tape it is
not going to want to unstick and be repositioned.

HTH

Chris

--
Cut along the dotted line to reply

In article .com,
Eric The Viking wrote:
Oh, one other tip I picked up was not to use frame fixings through the
top of the frame as you might crack the lintel.

I'd add that it's worth securely packing the window square and level
first to avoid any chance of distorting the frame with the fixings, and
only fix to the sides. The mortar will give a secure fixing to prevent
removal anyway.

--
*I was once a millionaire but my mom gave away my baseball cards

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

I need to replace a wooden 'Georgian' style window that is rotten.

ISTR there being a requirement to involve the local council / planning
regs (?) if you`re fitting plastic windows yourself - if a company is
doing it they have a different licensing system to allow them to just go
ahead...

Perhaps someone else has more info ?!?

Colin Wilson wrote:
I need to replace a wooden 'Georgian' style window that is rotten.

ISTR there being a requirement to involve the local council / planning
regs (?) if you`re fitting plastic windows yourself - if a company is
doing it they have a different licensing system to allow them to just
go ahead...

Perhaps someone else has more info ?!?

Cant see it meself? a window frame supports no load bearing on the structure
so therefore can be done without involving council. Blimey! people take
window frames out to get the furniture in and out of the house some times
cant have the hassle of going to the council and say..."we need our window
frame out can you set up the planning regs".
So long as it properly fixed in place then alls well.

chris French wrote:
In message . com,
writes

I need to replace a wooden 'Georgian' style window that is rotten. I
know how to get it out but have never fitted a double glazed unit
before.

The glazing can be fixed in various ways. best is to use glazing tape
(or whatever it was called, basically a self adhesive tape) and gazing
silicone. though you can use silicone or there is a mastic you spread on
with knife you can use which I found total pain to use.

The way the glazing is fixed is normally specific to the type/brand of
window used - it's vital to do what the manufacturer says as regards
spacers/beads/tape etc as if you do it wrong, you're likely to break the
unit. I once had a window broken by a professional glazier, because the
who window was different to the type his firm supplied, and he used
the wrong method (I found out later).

David

Colin Wilson wrote:
I need to replace a wooden 'Georgian' style window that is rotten.

ISTR there being a requirement to involve the local council / planning
regs (?) if you`re fitting plastic windows yourself - if a company is
doing it they have a different licensing system to allow them to just go
ahead...

Definitely - you need to go through building regs (submit a 'building
notice', which is likely to cost you 50-100 GBP, depending on where you
are). They will need to check the window fulfil current requirements
for insulation, emergency exit in a fire etc. DG companies are normally
members of FENSA which allows them to self-certify.

No need for planning permission if you are just replacing a window
(rather than making a new opening)

David

"Lobster" wrote in message
...
Colin Wilson wrote:
I need to replace a wooden 'Georgian' style window that is rotten.
ISTR there being a requirement to involve the local council / planning
regs (?) if you`re fitting plastic windows yourself - if a company is
doing it they have a different licensing system to allow them to just go
ahead...

Definitely - you need to go through building regs (submit a 'building
notice', which is likely to cost you 50-100 GBP, depending on where you
are). They will need to check the window fulfil current requirements for
insulation, emergency exit in a fire etc. DG companies are normally
members of FENSA which allows them to self-certify.

No need for planning permission if you are just replacing a window (rather
than making a new opening)

David

Yep, Colin and Dave are correct. Have a look he

http://www.fensa.co.uk/homeowners.html

Mogweed.

Chris wrote:
wrote:

Thanks Chris, doesn't sound too daunting. I'll have a close study of
units at DIY stores this week and see how they fit. If the glass and
frame come as two separate pieces (which I didn't realise ) then it
should be OK.

Cheers

Brian

As far as the windows from Wickes are concerned (I wouls expect other
DIY units to be similar), the glass is fitted (held in place by the
beads) but with the protective strip covering the adhesive tape still
fitted. When you remove the beads, the glass comes out - you then fit
the frame, remove the adhesive tape covering and refit the glass and beads.

The trick we found was to line up the glass with spacers with the tape
covering still fitted, because once the glass sticks to the tape it is
not going to want to unstick and be repositioned.

HTH

Chris

Everyone I know finds fitting the beads is the sting in the tail. They
won't go in without pushing the glass into the frame with some force,
which is the last thing a d-i-yer feels inclined to do. Then, yes! you
hear the reassuring click but realise it's not quite high or low enough
and it won't slide. Now you have to put pressure on the glass again to
get the thing out.
All this gets more difficult with bigger panels. If possible, cut your
teeth on a small one and don't try and work alone on anything bigger
than 3ft x 2ft

In message , raden
writes
http://www.wickes.co.uk/scat/goodideas

It's their url not mine.
--
Chris French

In message , Stuart Noble
writes
Everyone I know finds fitting the beads is the sting in the tail. They
won't go in without pushing the glass into the frame with some force,
which is the last thing a d-i-yer feels inclined to do. Then, yes! you
hear the reassuring click but realise it's not quite high or low enough
and it won't slide. Now you have to put pressure on the glass again to
get the thing out.

Are you talking plastic beading here Stuart? I've found wooden beading
easy enough to fit. No pushing clicking etc.

--
Chris French

raden wrote:
In message , chris French
writes
In message . com,
Eric The Viking writes
I just DIY'ed a double glazed window in my bathroom - was my first
one.

The main thing I'd say is to measure it correctly - this site has
some good tips...
http://www.u-fit.co.uk/windows/fitting/FittingGuide.asp


This is about plastic windows, some bits are applicable but some bits
wouldn't be. Just remember this when reeading it.

Wickes' Good Ideas leaflets are prety good, they used to ahve one on
fitting windows, you can get pdf's he

http://www.wickes.co.uk/scat/goodideas

Scat ?

Store catalogue, dirty arse. :-)

Huge wrote:
"ben" writes:
Colin Wilson wrote:
I need to replace a wooden 'Georgian' style window that is rotten.

ISTR there being a requirement to involve the local council /
planning regs (?) if you`re fitting plastic windows yourself - if a
company is doing it they have a different licensing system to allow
them to just go ahead...

Perhaps someone else has more info ?!?

Cant see it meself? a window frame supports no load bearing on the
structure

Except when it does... (1940-s bay-fronted semis, for example.)

I have a vague idea of them houses? and as they dont carry any real weight
i.e just the roof felting,ect, I would imagine all the force would be on the
2b4 struts secured to the main house wall.

chris French wrote:
In message , Stuart Noble
writes

Everyone I know finds fitting the beads is the sting in the tail. They
won't go in without pushing the glass into the frame with some force,
which is the last thing a d-i-yer feels inclined to do. Then, yes! you
hear the reassuring click but realise it's not quite high or low
enough and it won't slide. Now you have to put pressure on the glass
again to get the thing out.


Are you talking plastic beading here Stuart?

Yes. The standard upvc window bead. You need the pressure to compress
the rubber seal at the front before it lines up with the groove at the
side. Clever stuff actually because it prevents the panel being pushed
inwards.

I've found wooden beading
easy enough to fit. No pushing clicking etc.

In message , ben
writes
Huge wrote:
"ben" writes:

Cant see it meself? a window frame supports no load bearing on the
structure

Except when it does... (1940-s bay-fronted semis, for example.)

I have a vague idea of them houses? and as they dont carry any real weight
i.e just the roof felting,ect, I would imagine all the force would be on the
2b4 struts secured to the main house wall.


the lower windows have to support the weight of the upper windows, the
timber frame , tile cladding etc. For typical wooden , square or splay
bay window that's not a problem for the timbers at the front of the bay.
However UPVC normally requires metal supports in these front corners
with in the plastic frame. if this is missing the windows can deform.
--
Chris French