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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Tap Tail Tales.......
Hello All
I need to cut down some large copper tap tails for a monobloc high riser tap, add an elbow joint and run the pipe work into a stud wall. I have one of those bracket type sink holders bolted to the wall and leaving the tails as long as they are is ugly to say the least. I need to hide them as much as possible. Flexi tails are not an option as Hudson Reed state they cannot be used due to the length required and I certainly couldn't find any anywhere near the size I need. Anyway back to the plot, I need to cut the tails just before the hex attachment on the tails. Providing I tighten first and then cut should I be OK? do tap tails normally need removing in the future due to leaks, and if so would I be able to remove them without the hex spanner attachment thing? Anyone else have any brighter ideas? TIA as usual Cheers Richard |
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#3
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Hello Pete, many thanks for the response you may of just saved my
sanity after last nights activities. The tap tails I have are 12mm copper going to 15mm copper and they are M10 or M12 type with the O ring at the end judging from the web link. I couldn't get these in the local plumbers merchants the correct length and with the correct thread size at the end. How do I know which one I will need. I will need this type of connector in about a 60cm length, not sure if its M10 or M12 but it is smaller than the type I have seen so maybe its an M10? Is this a screw size measurement? Do they do these connectors that long, have only seen 30cm. TFYH Richard |
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#6
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Pete
I spoke too soon!!!. OK next problem. The M10 connector I have is 300mm long, however this is not long enough to clear the tap body. I can attach the two hoses together for one supply OK but the problem here is that there is no room to fit the other one in. So I need to be able to clear the tap body by a good inch or so so I can attach the hoses without them fowling each other. Any other ideas? TIA Richard |
#7
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#8
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Yes that is what Ive got, can I e-mail you the pics?
Cheers Richard |
#9
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On 27 Jul 2005 11:03:46 -0700, wrote:
Yes that is what Ive got, can I e-mail you the pics? By all means! cheers, Pete. |
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#12
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Deep drawing of breath quite!
I planned and attempted something similar before without thinking about the size of the compression fittings. Ok so plan C: I plan to cut the tail to the 12mm diameter pipe, elbow off it with solder ring fitments run a small length of 12mm copper into the stud wall, elbow again with a reducing elbow to 15mm and join the supply pipes to the tap pipes with some 15mm copper and an isolating valve - Push fit. Sound Ok to you? Cheers Pete Richard |
#13
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#14
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Well I couldn't get any 12mm pipe anywhere and bes didn't have any
available for another 2 weeks. I ended up going the 15mm route soldering a reducer 12mm to 15mm onto the tail after cutting. Now, how tight must the tails be into the tap body? Im not convinced that they are tightening up properly and as I said in another post the little O rings on the M10 thread keep getting shred. Are these important or can I just PTFE tape it? Once I have it all soldered in place it will be a bugger to get apart so I cant really afford to mess it up. Also as I just discovered I will need to do some soldering in situ after the tap is fitted. I think I should check the home insurance is up to date! Thanks for your other advise regarding silver polish, I may just spray them silver. There shouldn't be much showing once I have poked them into the stud wall. Cheers Pete Richard |
#16
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What a job this is, another late one lastnight but nearly there.
I have already soldered the piping together that will fit into the reducer on the bottom of the tails and connected them to the supply with an isolating valve . All that remains now is to do the final solder into the tails which looks very tricky. I have ordered some new tails (x2) from Hudson Reed just in case. I will try the LSX and keep my fingers crossed. Is it OK to solder and unsolder a joint to be soldered back together later? I had to undo the solder joint into the tails as I soon discovered I could not tighten the tails up with a great big pipe attached to it!!! I dont think I want anymore ideas Cheers Richard |
#17
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#18
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Well I finally did it!
The old solder on the joints actually helped me, I didn't need to add any solder to the joint. I just heated and tapped the two joins together. It was like using solder ring fitments. Anyway all done, and looking great too. Thanks for all your help and advice Pete Cheers Richard |
#19
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