On 28 Jul 2005 11:11:39 -0700, wrote:

Well I couldn't get any 12mm pipe anywhere and bes didn't have any
available for another 2 weeks. I ended up going the 15mm route
soldering a reducer 12mm to 15mm onto the tail after cutting. Now, how
tight must the tails be into the tap body?
Im not convinced that they are tightening up properly and as I said in
another post the little O rings on the M10 thread keep getting shred.
Are these important or can I just PTFE tape it?

In these situations I use Fernox LS-X leak sealer. I'd put a bit but
not loads on the male thread, so when they are tightened any excess is
squeezed out of the connection and not inside it.

Once I have it all
soldered in place it will be a bugger to get apart so I cant really
afford to mess it up. Also as I just discovered I will need to do some
soldering in situ after the tap is fitted. I think I should check the
home insurance is up to date!

Thinking about it it might be best to solder the elbows before fitting
with the tap upside down in a few inches of water in a bowl. This is
so the tap and the sealer won't get affected to much by heat
travelling up it.

When assembled in situ to check fit, by making a gentle score with a
sharp point across each elbow connection and the pipe, they would
serve as useful alignment marks when soldering.

Still might be worth putting the pictures up on the web so others can
make suggestions, I sometimes don't think of the best and quickest way
to do things ;(

Thanks for your other advise regarding silver polish, I may just spray
them silver. There shouldn't be much showing once I have poked them
into the stud wall.

Might be worth spraying a couple of offcuts and trying the radsnaps to
see how it will look.

cheers,
Pete.