I've got a fireplace in my house which has never been used. Its connect to
the gas via a "gas restrictor elbow" as seen here
http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bbig/85480.jpg

I would like to stop the gas going to the fireplace while i do a bit of work
around it. The top part of the elbow appears to be a safety cap which then
reveals another screw section. I thought it would be a case of just screwing
this down which would then block the line but it just kept moving down, I
did not want to screw it any further incase it fell through and then meant
there was a leak.

Is it just a case of screwing the middle down till its blocked?

Rob Convery wrote:
I've got a fireplace in my house which has never been used. Its
connect to the gas via a "gas restrictor elbow" as seen here
http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bbig/85480.jpg

I would like to stop the gas going to the fireplace while i do a
bit of work around it. The top part of the elbow appears to be a
safety cap which then reveals another screw section. I thought it
would be a case of just screwing this down which would then block
the line but it just kept moving down, I did not want to screw it
any further incase it fell through and then meant there was a
leak.
Is it just a case of screwing the middle down till its blocked?

Why not just turn it all off at the meter?

In article , Rob Convery
writes
I've got a fireplace in my house which has never been used. Its connect to
the gas via a "gas restrictor elbow" as seen here
http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bbig/85480.jpg

I would like to stop the gas going to the fireplace while i do a bit of work
around it. The top part of the elbow appears to be a safety cap which then
reveals another screw section. I thought it would be a case of just screwing
this down which would then block the line but it just kept moving down, I
did not want to screw it any further incase it fell through and then meant
there was a leak.

Is it just a case of screwing the middle down till its blocked?

Yup, that's the idea, it gets a little scary in the middle as quite a bit of gas
will escape past the screw until it is fully seated down. If you wanted you
could turn the gas off first at the meter but certainly make sure you know
where the gas isolator is and that it works. Again as a safety, if the screw
got stuck half way you could simply screw the cap back on until you can
isolate the supply.
--
fred

On Tue, 5 Jul 2005 22:19:47 +0100,it is alleged that "Rob Convery"
spake thusly in uk.d-i-y:

I've got a fireplace in my house which has never been used. Its connect to
the gas via a "gas restrictor elbow" as seen here
http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bbig/85480.jpg

I would like to stop the gas going to the fireplace while i do a bit of work
around it. The top part of the elbow appears to be a safety cap which then
reveals another screw section. I thought it would be a case of just screwing
this down which would then block the line but it just kept moving down, I
did not want to screw it any further incase it fell through and then meant
there was a leak.

Is it just a case of screwing the middle down till its blocked?


Usually yes.
Normally you will have to go down so the head of the screw is *just
below* the level where the pipe comes off the side, in fact you can
see the 'elbow' part from inside.

Personally I wouldn't worry about it dropping down inside, because if
it DID you'd have already had a very badly damaged elbow that for
safety reasons needs replaced.

On the picture you posted from toolstation, if you draw a vertical
line from the centre of the first O in the logo, and continue it up,
that is about where the *head* of the screw will end up, you'll feel
it bind down against the valve seating.

2 cautions: 1, don't overtighten it down, you will have a hell of a
job getting it back out and might damage the head, and 2, use a
screwdriver sufficiently wide to engage the head, but narrow enough
not to gouge the threads, as you'll be putting it up to 3/4 inch
inside the fitting.

You _will_ smell gas as you do this, that's normal, it's the leakage
back out of the pipe to the heater, and maybe a tiny amount from round
the threads, once it's all screwed down, put the cap back on and
you're safe (never leave the cap off unless you are actually screwing
the valve up or down, it prevents the leakage round the grub screw
threads).

HTH

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There is a theory which states that if ever anyone discovers exactly what
the Universe is for and why it is here, it will instantly disappear and be
replaced by something even more bizarrely inexeplicable. There is another
theory which states that this has already happened.

"Chip" wrote in message
n.net...
On Tue, 5 Jul 2005 22:19:47 +0100,it is alleged that "Rob Convery"
spake thusly in uk.d-i-y:

I've got a fireplace in my house which has never been used. Its connect to
the gas via a "gas restrictor elbow" as seen here
http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bbig/85480.jpg

I would like to stop the gas going to the fireplace while i do a bit of
work
around it. The top part of the elbow appears to be a safety cap which then
reveals another screw section. I thought it would be a case of just
screwing
this down which would then block the line but it just kept moving down, I
did not want to screw it any further incase it fell through and then meant
there was a leak.

Is it just a case of screwing the middle down till its blocked?


Usually yes.
Normally you will have to go down so the head of the screw is *just
below* the level where the pipe comes off the side, in fact you can
see the 'elbow' part from inside.

Personally I wouldn't worry about it dropping down inside, because if
it DID you'd have already had a very badly damaged elbow that for
safety reasons needs replaced.

On the picture you posted from toolstation, if you draw a vertical
line from the centre of the first O in the logo, and continue it up,
that is about where the *head* of the screw will end up, you'll feel
it bind down against the valve seating.

2 cautions: 1, don't overtighten it down, you will have a hell of a
job getting it back out and might damage the head, and 2, use a
screwdriver sufficiently wide to engage the head, but narrow enough
not to gouge the threads, as you'll be putting it up to 3/4 inch
inside the fitting.

You _will_ smell gas as you do this, that's normal, it's the leakage
back out of the pipe to the heater, and maybe a tiny amount from round
the threads, once it's all screwed down, put the cap back on and
you're safe (never leave the cap off unless you are actually screwing
the valve up or down, it prevents the leakage round the grub screw
threads).

HTH


Thanks - just the reply I was looking for - was going to do it with it off
at the mains but its going to take a few days
so want to be able to have this turned while the mains is on for the heating
etc

Rob

On Tue, 5 Jul 2005 23:51:48 +0100, "Rob Convery"
wrote:



Thanks - just the reply I was looking for - was going to do it with it off
at the mains but its going to take a few days
so want to be able to have this turned while the mains is on for the heating
etc

Rob

Rob,be aware that like cooker plug in connectors,these restrictor
elbows dont always fully seal off the gas supply when screwed down and
can still pass a small amount of gas if worn/defective. It is good
practice to plug off the outlet of the restrictor elbow after screwing
it down.
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replying to Steve Walker, Tink-GB wrote:
Cos he doesnt want to stop the gas to the boiler?

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...or-325886-.htm

Simple answer is yes but the screw in "plug" section normally has a soft face to provide the shut off. Newer models have a "dowty" type seal under the cover cap but older ones used a fibre washer that overenthusiastic tightening could split. Also you should really plug the hole left when the pipe to the fire is disconnected. A 1/4"bsp screw in plug with thread seal is one method. If the olive on the gas fire connection pipe is a soft version be careful not to damage it on reassembly. Finally check gas tightness with a leak test fluid unless you can carry out a full soundness test.

Cynic wrote:
Simple answer is yes but the screw in "plug" section normally has a soft
face to provide the shut off. Newer models have a "dowty" type seal under
the cover cap but older ones used a fibre washer that overenthusiastic
tightening could split. Also you should really plug the hole left when
the pipe to the fire is disconnected. A 1/4"bsp screw in plug with thread
seal is one method. If the olive on the gas fire connection pipe is a
soft version be careful not to damage it on reassembly. Finally check gas
tightness with a leak test fluid unless you can carry out a full soundness test.


Only 15 years late. Have you joined HOH?

Tim

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Please don't feed the trolls

And the point of this stand alone message is?
grin.
Brian

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Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Cynic" wrote in message
...
Simple answer is yes but the screw in "plug" section normally has a soft
face to provide the shut off. Newer models have a "dowty" type seal under
the cover cap but older ones used a fibre washer that overenthusiastic
tightening could split. Also you should really plug the hole left when the
pipe to the fire is disconnected. A 1/4"bsp screw in plug with thread seal
is one method. If the olive on the gas fire connection pipe is a soft
version be careful not to damage it on reassembly. Finally check gas
tightness with a leak test fluid unless you can carry out a full soundness
test.

But its not a reply to anything, hence my response, I suspect he may have
joined one of the less good web interfarces.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Tim+" wrote in message
...
Cynic wrote:
Simple answer is yes but the screw in "plug" section normally has a soft
face to provide the shut off. Newer models have a "dowty" type seal under
the cover cap but older ones used a fibre washer that overenthusiastic
tightening could split. Also you should really plug the hole left when
the pipe to the fire is disconnected. A 1/4"bsp screw in plug with thread
seal is one method. If the olive on the gas fire connection pipe is a
soft version be careful not to damage it on reassembly. Finally check gas
tightness with a leak test fluid unless you can carry out a full
soundness test.


Only 15 years late. Have you joined HOH?

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

Just look on groups google Brian. The full thread is visible there.

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!to...-y/znQhTCto88g

Tim

Brian Gaff \(Sofa 2\) wrote:
But its not a reply to anything, hence my response, I suspect he may have
joined one of the less good web interfarces.
Brian


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Please don't feed the trolls