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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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My first-floor toilet is blocked, as far as I can see
just after the U-bend. My local plumbers merchant gave me a jar of sodium hydroxide, and told me this was as good as anything. The label on the container warns me to follow the instructions carefully, but unfortunately the instructions are missing. Can I safely pour some down the toilet? Do I have to ensure it will get round the U-bend? Any advice or suggestions gratefully received. -- Timothy Murphy e-mail (80k only): tim /at/ birdsnest.maths.tcd.ie tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366 s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland |
#2
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Our site services used concentrated sulphuric acid, plus some chemical to
enhance the action. Can't remember the name for sure (but "Blockbuster" comes to mind) but it sure was dangerous as the burns on one of the team demonstrated. The safety instructions will be the standard ones for caustic soda / sodium hydroxide. Bear in mind that even weak caustic soda is very dangerous to skin and eyes (full face visor recommended) and will make soap out of you in short order - and you may not feel anything until it's too late. If it doesn't get round the u-bend, how do you expect it to work? -- M Stewart Milton Keynes, UK Timothy Murphy wrote in message ... My first-floor toilet is blocked, as far as I can see just after the U-bend. My local plumbers merchant gave me a jar of sodium hydroxide, and told me this was as good as anything. The label on the container warns me to follow the instructions carefully, but unfortunately the instructions are missing. Can I safely pour some down the toilet? Do I have to ensure it will get round the U-bend? |
#3
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On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 00:01:11 +0100, Timothy Murphy
wrote: My first-floor toilet is blocked, as far as I can see just after the U-bend. My local plumbers merchant gave me a jar of sodium hydroxide, and told me this was as good as anything. The label on the container warns me to follow the instructions carefully, but unfortunately the instructions are missing. Can I safely pour some down the toilet? Do I have to ensure it will get round the U-bend? Any advice or suggestions gratefully received. You may be better off removing the pan, taking it outside and cleaning it with a pressure washer or something similar. Depending on the obstruction, caustic soda may not be all that effective anyway. I had the unenviable job of clearing one for somebody not long ago and the obstruction turned out to be a number of vampire's teabags gathered in a mass. It would probably have taken caustic soda some while to dissolve those sufficiently for them to move. ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#4
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On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 00:01:11 +0100, Timothy Murphy
wrote: The label on the container warns me to follow the instructions carefully, but unfortunately the instructions are missing. Are you sure they are not on a multi layer label? Packs of Sodium Hydroxide often have the instructions behind the label on the rear - you have to peel it off to get at them. Can I safely pour some down the toilet? Only with care. You must add caustic soda to water (not water to caustic soda) because when it dissolves it generates considerable heat. If you simply pour the crystals in the pan the heat generated locally around the pile of crystals can crack the ceramic pan. You need to mix it a separate vessel or take great care to stir as you are adding the crystals. Bear in mind that Sodium Hydroxide is really quite dangerous and that alkali burns, especially to the eyes, are far more dangerous than acid burns. -- Peter Parry. http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/ |
#5
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Andy Hall wrote in message . ..
On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 00:01:11 +0100, Timothy Murphy wrote: My first-floor toilet is blocked, as far as I can see just after the U-bend. My local plumbers merchant gave me a jar of sodium hydroxide, and told me this was as good as anything. The label on the container warns me to follow the instructions carefully, but unfortunately the instructions are missing. Can I safely pour some down the toilet? Do I have to ensure it will get round the U-bend? Any advice or suggestions gratefully received. You may be better off removing the pan, taking it outside and cleaning it with a pressure washer or something similar. Depending on the obstruction, caustic soda may not be all that effective anyway. I was about to say, surely it's got to be worth a go with it first, rather than removing the pan without trying? But I suppose if it doesn't work, and stays 100% blocked, then when he does have to take the pan off, then he's left with all that caustic liquid slopping about - not fun. Does the OP have a clue what's causing the blockage? OP - for what it's worth, the instructions on my pack of caustic soda for cleaning a drain (in pellet form) read "wear suitable gloves/eye protection add 100g to 1 litre cold water in a bucket, stir constantly til completely dissolved, carefully pour entire solution down drain. Leave for 30 mins and then use plunger." It also points out never to add water to caustic soda, always the other way round, and notes that solution will heat up when dissolving. In the light of what another poster mentioned (using sulphuric acid) I'd also add, for heaven's sake don't mix it with any other cleaners/unblockers (esp sulphuric acid) as the results could be nasty!!). If you do use it, I'd certainly leave it longer than 30 mins though. Overnight probably. It would be worth removing as much water from the loo bowl as you can first, to avoid unnecessary dilution of the caustic soda. hth David |
#6
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Malcolm Stewart wrote:
Our site services used concentrated sulphuric acid, plus some chemical to enhance the action. Can't remember the name for sure (but "Blockbuster" comes to mind) but it sure was dangerous as the burns on one of the team demonstrated. The safety instructions will be the standard ones for caustic soda / sodium hydroxide. Bear in mind that even weak caustic soda is very dangerous to skin and eyes (full face visor recommended) and will make soap out of you in short order - and you may not feel anything until it's too late. It very bad for eyes. I hace got loads on my skin, It burns and te skin tirns to soap. You most certainly will feel it before its too late. Fortunately the antidote is lots of clean fresh water. My use o it is cabvalier, and considered dangerous by most of teh pansies on this group. I would in fact do the folwing. Tip half the power or crytals int the loo, and follow up with a kettle of boiling water, making sure that any splashes and hisses happen inside. Best way to enbsure that is to slap a sheet of something like polystyrene over the top of it all till the witches cauldron ceases. Wipe up any splashes on anything with copious cold water. Then have a cup of coffee. Then come back and flush the loo. If it even drains sklightly this caustc will generally clear it BUT. If teh blocakge is clelluose material (paper or tampons) then sulphuric acid may actually be a better bet. Any household should have (tho not accessible by kids) a 5 litre container of brick aciod (hydrochloric) drain cleaner (sulhuric) and a few kg of caustic soda. There is little ethat will survive attack by a series of chemicals like that. Bricks glass abd sand beig the exception. If it doesn't get round the u-bend, how do you expect it to work? -- M Stewart Milton Keynes, UK Timothy Murphy wrote in message ... My first-floor toilet is blocked, as far as I can see just after the U-bend. My local plumbers merchant gave me a jar of sodium hydroxide, and told me this was as good as anything. The label on the container warns me to follow the instructions carefully, but unfortunately the instructions are missing. Can I safely pour some down the toilet? Do I have to ensure it will get round the U-bend? |
#7
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![]() Peter Parry wrote in message Only with care. You must add caustic soda to water (not water to caustic soda) because when it dissolves it generates considerable heat. If you simply pour the crystals in the pan the heat generated locally around the pile of crystals can crack the ceramic pan. You need to mix it a separate vessel or take great care to stir as you are adding the crystals. I think that's a bit alarmist. Caustic heats cold water to boiling for a few seconds, but hardly a threat to a ceramic pan. The main problem with pouring it straight into water is that the crystals form a solid mass which then takes a long time to dissolve. In any case it's highly unlikely to unblock a WC, which IME usually has something solid stuck in the soil pipe. Last one I did was a combination of a large cooking apple, a pair of St.Michael underpants, and a piano castor. The mind boggles. |
#8
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"stuart noble" wrote in message
... snip Last one I did was a combination of a large cooking apple, a pair of St.Michael underpants, and a piano castor. The mind boggles. Yikes - a previous user of that particular facility must have had serious medical and/or psychological problems! -- Richard Sampson email me at richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk |
#9
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On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 11:52:18 +0100, "RichardS" noaccess@invalid
wrote: "stuart noble" wrote in message ... snip Last one I did was a combination of a large cooking apple, a pair of St.Michael underpants, and a piano castor. The mind boggles. Yikes - a previous user of that particular facility must have had serious medical and/or psychological problems! Especially buying underwear in Marks and Spencers. ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#10
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Malcolm Stewart wrote:
If it doesn't get round the u-bend, how do you expect it to work? My first-floor toilet is blocked, as far as I can see just after the U-bend. I must say I wondered that. The toilet does drain slowly, taking maybe 30 minutes after flushing. So I guess the sodium hydroxide should slowly get round the bend if the level in the toilet is slightly above the U-bend. I'll try it anyway (with gloves and goggles!) -- Timothy Murphy e-mail (80k only): tim /at/ birdsnest.maths.tcd.ie tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366 s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland |
#11
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Subject: Clearing blocked toilet with caustic soda
From: Timothy Murphy Date: 22/07/04 13:59 GMT Daylight Time Message-id: Malcolm Stewart wrote: If it doesn't get round the u-bend, how do you expect it to work? My first-floor toilet is blocked, as far as I can see just after the U-bend. I must say I wondered that. The toilet does drain slowly, taking maybe 30 minutes after flushing. So I guess the sodium hydroxide should slowly get round the bend if the level in the toilet is slightly above the U-bend. I'll try it anyway (with gloves and goggles!) Might be worth trying a length of rubber hosepipe shoved round the U bend and try to push the blockage out. -- Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines (www.pumaracing.co.uk) Regione interior.....Scorchio ![]() Regione exterior....Scorchio ![]() Costa...................Scorchio ![]() Chalfont St Peter...Cumulo bloody nimbus as per usual. |
#12
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In article , Dave Baker
writes Subject: Clearing blocked toilet with caustic soda From: Timothy Murphy Date: 22/07/04 13:59 GMT Daylight Time Message-id: Malcolm Stewart wrote: If it doesn't get round the u-bend, how do you expect it to work? My first-floor toilet is blocked, as far as I can see just after the U-bend. I must say I wondered that. The toilet does drain slowly, taking maybe 30 minutes after flushing. So I guess the sodium hydroxide should slowly get round the bend if the level in the toilet is slightly above the U-bend. I'll try it anyway (with gloves and goggles!) Might be worth trying a length of rubber hosepipe shoved round the U bend and try to push the blockage out. Or improvise a plunger with a wad of cloth in a bin bag. (or even use a real toilet plunger). -- Tim Mitchell |
#13
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Tim Mitchell wrote:
Or improvise a plunger with a wad of cloth in a bin bag. (or even use a real toilet plunger). I have tried a plunger - seems more suited to a sink drain though, as I don't think it seals on the loo. Also tried a flexible drain cleaner. Am just about to try the hydroxide method ... -- Timothy Murphy e-mail (80k only): tim /at/ birdsnest.maths.tcd.ie tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366 s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland |
#14
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On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 11:01:15 +0100, "stuart noble"
wrote: Peter Parry wrote in message If you simply pour the crystals in the pan the heat generated locally around the pile of crystals can crack the ceramic pan. You need to mix it a separate vessel or take great care to stir as you are adding the crystals. I think that's a bit alarmist. Caustic heats cold water to boiling for a few seconds, but hardly a threat to a ceramic pan. Someone I know tried to use it to clean an old Belfast sink. They filled the sink with cold water and poured the contents of a plastic bottle of fine caustic soda crystals into the sink and then went to find a stirrer - a few minutes later the sink was in two halves neatly sheared through the pile of caustic soda crystals. Last one I did was a combination of a large cooking apple, a pair of St.Michael underpants, and a piano castor. Errr.... I think caustic soda would be the least of your worries!! -- Peter Parry. http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/ |
#15
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In article , Timothy Murphy
writes Tim Mitchell wrote: Or improvise a plunger with a wad of cloth in a bin bag. (or even use a real toilet plunger). I have tried a plunger - seems more suited to a sink drain though, as I don't think it seals on the loo. Toilet plungers have a big flat rubber sheet about 8 inches diameter -- Tim Mitchell |
#16
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On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 11:52:18 +0100, RichardS wrote:
Last one I did was a combination of a large cooking apple, a pair of St.Michael underpants, and a piano castor. Yikes - a previous user of that particular facility must have had serious medical and/or psychological problems! Or the household had a young child... -- Cheers Dave. pam is missing e-mail |
#17
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Tim Mitchell wrote:
In article , Timothy Murphy writes Tim Mitchell wrote: Or improvise a plunger with a wad of cloth in a bin bag. (or even use a real toilet plunger). I have tried a plunger - seems more suited to a sink drain though, as I don't think it seals on the loo. Toilet plungers have a big flat rubber sheet about 8 inches diameter Late one Christmas Eve I discovered a similar blockage. Forced to improvise, I screwed the rubber backing pad for my sanding disk onto the end of a broomstick. A few vigorous pumps later, all was well. Chris -- Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh. |
#18
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![]() Last one I did was a combination of a large cooking apple, a pair of St.Michael underpants, and a piano castor. Errr.... I think caustic soda would be the least of your worries!! Forgot to add that these items had all sucessfully navigated the u bend and the soil pipe, and were lodged on a bend about 3ft beyond the inspection chamber on their way to the main sewer. IME most blockages are nothing to do with the WC itself. If your on shared drains, it could be halfway down the street. |
#19
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"stuart noble" wrote in message ...
In any case it's highly unlikely to unblock a WC, which IME usually has something solid stuck in the soil pipe. Last one I did was a combination of a large cooking apple, a pair of St.Michael underpants, and a piano castor. The mind boggles. What no cuddly toy? An acquaintance of mine recently had to cure a blocked manhole. Having opened it up, he eventually managed to withdraw a man's shirt (bit poo-ey but in otherwise good condition) and a large bath towel; that seemed to sort it out. Nobody recognized the items or had a clue how they got there. David |
#20
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![]() "Malcolm Stewart" wrote in message ... Our site services used concentrated sulphuric acid, plus some chemical to enhance the action. Can't remember the name for sure (but "Blockbuster" comes to mind) but it sure was dangerous as the burns on one of the team demonstrated. That stuff really does work as its in gell that makes it sink to the source of the blockage Whereas in my experience bog standard caustic soda crystals don't... However, don't try the soda first then put the acid in .. the results will be very dramatic and your pan will probably be cracked from the heat. |
#21
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On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 18:33:17 +0100, "stuart noble"
wrote: Forgot to add that these items had all sucessfully navigated the u bend I was more concerned about their navigating the bits beforehand. -- Peter Parry. http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/ |
#22
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On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 00:01:11 +0100, Timothy Murphy
wrote: My local plumbers merchant gave me a jar of sodium hydroxide, and told me this was as good as anything. Waste of time. Caustic soda is good at shifting kitchen fat blockages in a fairly dry pipe. But for toilets, go for an acid cleaner instead - cond sulphuric should be in ny decent plumber's merchant. -- Smert' spamionam |
#23
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In article om,
Dave Liquorice wrote: Last one I did was a combination of a large cooking apple, a pair of St.Michael underpants, and a piano castor. Yikes - a previous user of that particular facility must have had serious medical and/or psychological problems! Or the household had a young child... Don't fancy my chances against your kids if they can take a castor off a piano... -- *The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#24
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#25
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On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 11:01:15 +0100, "stuart noble"
wrote: something solid stuck in the soil pipe. Last one I did was a combination of a large cooking apple, a pair of St.Michael underpants, and a piano castor. And this is why, no matter how bad the software industry gets, I'm not becoming a plumber. Thomas Crapper used to use apples to test the flushing power of his cisterns and pans. |
#26
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A one time colleague told me that in his road THE AUTHORITIES had to
be called in to unblock the sewer and found ... a garden rake. Since no one owned up, they were going to fine the whole street (can they do that?) I didn't hear what happened in the end. Chris A colleague of mine in Cambridge found a set of drain rods blocking his drain! Presumably the previous owner had let go at the wrong moment, devils own job to get out apparently. Also while working at a tournament at Wentworth a few years back there was a blockage in a manhole that the s**t tanker driver was emptying the mobile toilet tanks into, turned out to be a recently dead dog. I'm sure you wanted to know this! -- Bill |
#27
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In message , Andy Dingley
writes Thomas Crapper used to use apples to test the flushing power of his cisterns and pans. Moral of this story is "never accept an apple from a plumber" ?? -- Bill |
#28
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In article ,
Andy Dingley wrote: something solid stuck in the soil pipe. Last one I did was a combination of a large cooking apple, a pair of St.Michael underpants, and a piano castor. And this is why, no matter how bad the software industry gets, I'm not becoming a plumber. But if they're in demand, they can cherry pick the jobs they want to do. -- *Money isn‘t everything, but it sure keeps the kids in touch Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#29
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In article , Bill
writes A one time colleague told me that in his road THE AUTHORITIES had to be called in to unblock the sewer and found ... a garden rake. Since no one owned up, they were going to fine the whole street (can they do that?) I didn't hear what happened in the end. Chris A colleague of mine in Cambridge found a set of drain rods blocking his drain! Presumably the previous owner had let go at the wrong moment, devils own job to get out apparently. Also while working at a tournament at Wentworth a few years back there was a blockage in a manhole that the s**t tanker driver was emptying the mobile toilet tanks into, turned out to be a recently dead dog. I'm sure you wanted to know this! While working on one of the nation's great outdoor music festivals we had a similar problem with the bogsucker tanker and it was (eventually) found to be a dead cow. It was quite a large manhole and it was suspected that a local farmer had dumped the corpse down there. -- Tim Mitchell |
#30
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In message , Malcolm Stewart
writes Bear in mind that even weak caustic soda is very dangerous to skin and eyes (full face visor recommended) and will make soap out of you in short order Just in case anyone reading doesn't believe this comment - I once didn't bother with gloves when using diluted caustic soda to clear a drain - and wondered for a while where the soap on my hands had come from - very odd sensation, and not what I'd expect to feel when my skin was being corroded. -- dave @ stejonda Darwin Award Nominee on numerous occasions |
#31
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![]() dave @ stejonda wrote: In message , Malcolm Stewart writes Bear in mind that even weak caustic soda is very dangerous to skin and eyes (full face visor recommended) and will make soap out of you in short order Just in case anyone reading doesn't believe this comment - I once didn't bother with gloves when using diluted caustic soda to clear a drain - and wondered for a while where the soap on my hands had come from - very odd sensation, and not what I'd expect to feel when my skin was being corroded. And a good filter mask, not just a dust mask, the fumes when 100% twaddle hits water, or conc acid, will do your lungs no good either! I can however recommend a pressure washer flexi attachment, cleaning chemical drains at work, that usually carry acid/caustic etches so nothing you can pour in them will shift the residues, its the best method apart form pigging we've found, and for plastic drains like vulcathene pigging is almost impossible anyway. I can well remember the tanker drivers that serviced the private houses around the maidenhead area museum, anatomically shaped candles and battery operated devices were quite regularly recovered.... Niel. |
#32
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Andy Dingley wrote:
My local plumbers merchant gave me a jar of sodium hydroxide, and told me this was as good as anything. Waste of time. Caustic soda is good at shifting kitchen fat blockages in a fairly dry pipe. But for toilets, go for an acid cleaner instead - cond sulphuric should be in ny decent plumber's merchant. Well, I have to say - the caustic soda worked. I left it overnight, as advised. In the morning the toilet did not appear to be clear, but I poured about 10 litres of very hot (80deg C) water down, again as advised, and the blockage suddenly cleared, and now the toilet appears to be as good as new. -- Timothy Murphy e-mail (80k only): tim /at/ birdsnest.maths.tcd.ie tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366 s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland |
#33
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![]() "Timothy Murphy" wrote in message ... Andy Dingley wrote: My local plumbers merchant gave me a jar of sodium hydroxide, and told me this was as good as anything. Waste of time. Caustic soda is good at shifting kitchen fat blockages in a fairly dry pipe. But for toilets, go for an acid cleaner instead - cond sulphuric should be in ny decent plumber's merchant. Well, I have to say - the caustic soda worked. I left it overnight, as advised. In the morning the toilet did not appear to be clear, but I poured about 10 litres of very hot (80deg C) water down, again as advised, and the blockage suddenly cleared, and now the toilet appears to be as good as new. -- Timothy Murphy e-mail (80k only): tim /at/ birdsnest.maths.tcd.ie tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366 s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland Would/does caustic plus very hot water be (likely to) dissolve a wax toilet seal???? Just a thought! |
#34
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![]() Terry wrote in message ... Would/does caustic plus very hot water be (likely to) dissolve a wax toilet seal???? Just a thought! Probably a synthetic wax with a very high melting point, so neither the alkali or the heat would affect it. |
#35
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On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 11:49:25 -0230, "Terry"
wrote: Would/does caustic plus very hot water be (likely to) dissolve a wax toilet seal???? Just a thought! I believe that these are a north America thing, Terry. I've seen them in places like Home Depot in the U.S. where they fit in the waste spigot in the floor and the pan drops into that. I assume you have the same in Canada? ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#36
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dave @ stejonda wrote:
In message , Malcolm Stewart writes Bear in mind that even weak caustic soda is very dangerous to skin and eyes (full face visor recommended) and will make soap out of you in short order Just in case anyone reading doesn't believe this comment - I once didn't bother with gloves when using diluted caustic soda to clear a drain - and wondered for a while where the soap on my hands had come from - very odd sensation, and not what I'd expect to feel when my skin was being corroded. Inded, since the epidermis is largely dead and has no nerve cells, you just end up wih a fresh shiny and very clean layer of slighly less dead skin. No big deal really. |
#37
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In article , The Natural
Philosopher writes dave @ stejonda wrote: In message , Malcolm Stewart writes Bear in mind that even weak caustic soda is very dangerous to skin and eyes (full face visor recommended) and will make soap out of you in short order Just in case anyone reading doesn't believe this comment - I once didn't bother with gloves when using diluted caustic soda to clear a drain - and wondered for a while where the soap on my hands had come from - very odd sensation, and not what I'd expect to feel when my skin was being corroded. Inded, since the epidermis is largely dead and has no nerve cells, you just end up wih a fresh shiny and very clean layer of slighly less dead skin. No big deal really. This guy's an idiot, but each to their own I suppose. Caustic burns do a lot of tissue damage (er, destroy it, really). As a minimum, wear eye protection and gloves and cover your arms. Also note this cautionary tale: I decided to use caustic soda on the lavatory bowl the other day. I've done this before, but I was in a rush. Instead of pre-mixing it in a bucket and pouring it in, I just sprinkled "a few" crystals into the bowl. The phone went and I went to answer it, without stirring the mixture. It wasn't a few. The heat of solution (energy released when the crystals dissolved) caused the mixture to become very hot, at the bottom of the pan, where the crystals were. The resulting heat cracked the bowl (I don't know that it boiled - probably did - as I wasn't there). I knew this happened - once nearly melted the bottom of a plastic bucket in a similar way - but I didn't think it could hurt ceramics. Silly me. Moral: when you make up the solution, keep stirring (piece of old lath or wooden stick is good), and preferably make it up in a metal container (a galv. bucket is ideal). If you don't break them up, the crystals once poured-in can form a very hot solid-ish lump at the bottom as they dissolve, which is what does the damage. ALWAYS add crystals to water, not the other way around, and plan what you will do in the event of spillage, especially on you. Up-side: It's a really brilliant, inexpensive, de-greaser and drain cleaner, and superb on oven trays and shelves. Regards, Simonm. -- simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay SIMON MUIR, UK INDEPENDENCE PARTY, BRISTOL www.ukip.org EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/ |
#38
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![]() "SpamTrapSeeSig" wrote in message ... In article , The Natural Philosopher writes dave @ stejonda wrote: In message , Malcolm Stewart writes Bear in mind that even weak caustic soda is very dangerous to skin and eyes (full face visor recommended) and will make soap out of you in short order Just in case anyone reading doesn't believe this comment - I once didn't bother with gloves when using diluted caustic soda to clear a drain - and wondered for a while where the soap on my hands had come from - very odd sensation, and not what I'd expect to feel when my skin was being corroded. Inded, since the epidermis is largely dead and has no nerve cells, you just end up wih a fresh shiny and very clean layer of slighly less dead skin. No big deal really. This guy's an idiot, I fully agree. Caustic burns do a lot of tissue damage (er, destroy it, really). As a minimum, wear eye protection and gloves and cover your arms. / |
#39
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IMM wrote:
"SpamTrapSeeSig" wrote in message ... In article , The Natural Philosopher writes dave @ stejonda wrote: In message , Malcolm Stewart writes Bear in mind that even weak caustic soda is very dangerous to skin and eyes (full face visor recommended) and will make soap out of you in short order Just in case anyone reading doesn't believe this comment - I once didn't bother with gloves when using diluted caustic soda to clear a drain - and wondered for a while where the soap on my hands had come from - very odd sensation, and not what I'd expect to feel when my skin was being corroded. Inded, since the epidermis is largely dead and has no nerve cells, you just end up wih a fresh shiny and very clean layer of slighly less dead skin. No big deal really. This guy's an idiot, I fully agree. Caustic burns do a lot of tissue damage (er, destroy it, really). As a minimum, wear eye protection and gloves and cover your arms. / Well it worked for me. I protect eyes, but the odd caustic burn on the skin is no big deal. Just wash with water and there you are. Nice shiny patch of skin. If you are stupid enough to leave caustic unattended tho, you deserve what you get. Cearmics will crack if you put boiling water in them. I flush it down as soon as it starts to boil, and generally have hot water in there first to get the bowl up to temp. |
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![]() "The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... IMM wrote: "SpamTrapSeeSig" wrote in message ... In article , The Natural Philosopher writes dave @ stejonda wrote: In message , Malcolm Stewart writes Bear in mind that even weak caustic soda is very dangerous to skin and eyes (full face visor recommended) and will make soap out of you in short order Just in case anyone reading doesn't believe this comment - I once didn't bother with gloves when using diluted caustic soda to clear a drain - and wondered for a while where the soap on my hands had come from - very odd sensation, and not what I'd expect to feel when my skin was being corroded. Inded, since the epidermis is largely dead and has no nerve cells, you just end up wih a fresh shiny and very clean layer of slighly less dead skin. No big deal really. This guy's an idiot, I fully agree. Well it worked for me. I still agree you are an idiot. |
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