Can any of you guys recommend a decent double flaring tool for power
steering/brake lines? It will be used with steel lines.


Richard

They are not rocket science, I suspect any brand will work. I have had my set
for years; think I bought it at an auto parts store when I really needed it on
a Sunday afternoon and did not have much opportunity to shop around. I think
it is a K-D. or a Leslie.

Mill

Can any of you guys recommend a decent double flaring tool for power
steering/brake lines? It will be used with steel lines.


Richard

In article ,
wrote:

Can any of you guys recommend a decent double flaring tool for power
steering/brake lines? It will be used with steel lines.


Richard

I have a $nap-On. Works wonderful, though doesn't get much use. Better
count on around $120.00...

Their catalog is online...

Erik

wrote in message
...
Can any of you guys recommend a decent double flaring tool for power
steering/brake lines? It will be used with steel lines.


Richard

Robinair/OTC is on ebay real cheap

On Thu, 03 Feb 2005 18:25:55 -0600, wrote:

Can any of you guys recommend a decent double flaring tool for power
steering/brake lines? It will be used with steel lines.

http://tinyurl.com/3vpk6

I bought the Harbor Freight special and was happy with it. Did more
flares than I can count on my airplane fuel system. Not a bad one in the
bunch. (It was aluminum tubing though) Built some decent hand and
forearm muscles in the process.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40878

Don't forget a nice bending tool as well so as not to kink those nicely
flared lines.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3755

I thought I could bend the 3/8" and 7/16" line without kinking and I was
sorely mistaken. Had to go the 10 miles back to the local Harbor Freight
and pick up the bender. Makes it look so nice when its done. Take a look
at my engine page and you'll see my handy work.


--
Bart D. Hull

Tempe, Arizona

Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/engine.html
for my Subaru Engine Conversion
Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/fuselage.html
for Tango II I'm building.

Remove -nospam to reply via email.




Don Foreman wrote:
On Thu, 03 Feb 2005 18:25:55 -0600, wrote:


Can any of you guys recommend a decent double flaring tool for power
steering/brake lines? It will be used with steel lines.


http://tinyurl.com/3vpk6

--
Bart D. Hull

Tempe, Arizona

Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/engine.html
for my Subaru Engine Conversion
Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/fuselage.html
for Tango II I'm building.

Remove -nospam to reply via email.

Don Foreman wrote:

On Thu, 03 Feb 2005 18:25:55 -0600, wrote:


Can any of you guys recommend a decent double flaring tool for power
steering/brake lines? It will be used with steel lines.


http://tinyurl.com/3vpk6

I never ever buy anything from JC Whitney anymore. Their stuff is the same
import stuff everyone else carries, with mediocre pricing. But what gets you
is the shipping. Way more than anyone else's for the same items. - GWE

Bart D. Hull wrote:
I bought the Harbor Freight special and was happy with it. Did more
flares than I can count on my airplane fuel system. Not a bad one in the
bunch. (It was aluminum tubing though) Built some decent hand and
forearm muscles in the process.

Let's see if I have this right. You used aluminum AN fittings for your
aircraft fuel system, forward of the firewall. And you made the flares
for those 37.5 degree fittings using a 45 degree flaring tool from
Harbor Freight. And you plan to take your friends and family up in this
airplane, and fly over populated areas.

Is that about right?

Dale Scroggins

I bought a double flaring toolfrom on of the local auto parts places.
It has the different sized holes for the various line that who are
using. Went and bought a 3ft. piece of tubing 5/16th tubing from Napa
with the flares already formed, cut one end off and went to double
flaring, comparing my flares with the store bought ones. Some were
good some were not. Is there a secret in getting consistenly good
flares or maybe I am being to critical of my flares. I did manage to
break one of the tighting bolts, am going to replace it with grade 8
bolt tomorow. I did notice that the store bought flare was not all
that perfect itself.

I just thought that if I spend more money on a decent flareing tool
that it would help with my results. I also bought one of those plier
type benders, got to have a little more practice on that too.

Richard

Dale,
Nope, 45 degree flares on automotive "AN-style" fittings. Yes, you do
have to be careful not mixing the automotive and true AN stuff.

My plane is using a Soob 2.2L engine so I use automotive components for
everything. Much easier to source and just as good if not better than
the more expensive airplane stuff.

Good friends now with the local "Speed Shop" once I showed them what I
was doing with all that hardware. Real nice to just pick and choose what
I wanted off their wall rather than try to mail order all the aircraft
AN stuff.

Bart

--
Bart D. Hull

Tempe, Arizona

Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/engine.html
for my Subaru Engine Conversion
Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/fuselage.html
for Tango II I'm building.

Remove -nospam to reply via email.
Dale Scroggins wrote:
Bart D. Hull wrote:

I bought the Harbor Freight special and was happy with it. Did more
flares than I can count on my airplane fuel system. Not a bad one in the
bunch. (It was aluminum tubing though) Built some decent hand and
forearm muscles in the process.


Let's see if I have this right. You used aluminum AN fittings for your
aircraft fuel system, forward of the firewall. And you made the flares
for those 37.5 degree fittings using a 45 degree flaring tool from
Harbor Freight. And you plan to take your friends and family up in this
airplane, and fly over populated areas.

Is that about right?

Dale Scroggins

wrote in message
...
I bought a double flaring toolfrom on of the local auto parts places.
It has the different sized holes for the various line that who are
using. Went and bought a 3ft. piece of tubing 5/16th tubing from Napa
with the flares already formed, cut one end off and went to double
flaring, comparing my flares with the store bought ones. Some were
good some were not. Is there a secret in getting consistenly good
flares or maybe I am being to critical of my flares.

Yes you need to file / chamfer the tubing before you flare it, then
carefully set it the correct height in the tool.

William.....

break one of the tighting bolts, am going to replace it with grade 8
bolt tomorow. I did notice that the store bought flare was not all
that perfect itself.

I just thought that if I spend more money on a decent flareing tool
that it would help with my results. I also bought one of those plier
type benders, got to have a little more practice on that too.

Richard

In article PZ_Md.20618$C24.18831@attbi_s52,
"William" wrote:

wrote in message
...
I bought a double flaring toolfrom on of the local auto parts places.
It has the different sized holes for the various line that who are
using. Went and bought a 3ft. piece of tubing 5/16th tubing from Napa
with the flares already formed, cut one end off and went to double
flaring, comparing my flares with the store bought ones. Some were
good some were not. Is there a secret in getting consistenly good
flares or maybe I am being to critical of my flares.

Yes you need to file / chamfer the tubing before you flare it, then
carefully set it the correct height in the tool.

It would be nice to have a tool specifically made for chamfering
steel line before double flaring, using a file doesn't always
work out well and the results give so-so uniformity...

Something sort of like chalking a pool cue if you get my drift.

Any ideas?

In article ,
aarcuda69062 wrote:
In article PZ_Md.20618$C24.18831@attbi_s52,
"William" wrote:

wrote in message
...
I bought a double flaring toolfrom on of the local auto parts places.

[ ... ]

good some were not. Is there a secret in getting consistenly good
flares or maybe I am being to critical of my flares.

Yes you need to file / chamfer the tubing before you flare it, then
carefully set it the correct height in the tool.

It would be nice to have a tool specifically made for chamfering
steel line before double flaring, using a file doesn't always
work out well and the results give so-so uniformity...

Something sort of like chalking a pool cue if you get my drift.

Any ideas?

Yep! There is a tool made for cartridge reloaders (firearms) to
apply after a case-length trimmer. (The case stretches a little with
each firing, and it eventually needs to be trimmed back to length.) One
end looks like a Severance brand multi-flute countersink, and the other
looks like the inverse (only three flutes, IIRC) with a guide pin to
start it roughly centered.

One of these should to a nice job of both chamfering the ID and
the OD to remove burrs.

The one which I have was made by RCBS.

A quick web serach finds the web page describing it:

URL: http://www.rcbs.com/default.asp?menu=1&s1=4&s2=3&s3=17

The pin may be a bit too large for the 1/4" copper or steel line, as
it is expecting a minimum ID to hold a .17 bullet (0.170").

But Severance does make some OD chamfering tools which are like
an inverse of their multi-flute countersinks.

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

In article ,
(DoN. Nichols) wrote:

It would be nice to have a tool specifically made for chamfering
steel line before double flaring, using a file doesn't always
work out well and the results give so-so uniformity...

Something sort of like chalking a pool cue if you get my drift.

Any ideas?

Yep! There is a tool made for cartridge reloaders (firearms) to
apply after a case-length trimmer. (The case stretches a little with
each firing, and it eventually needs to be trimmed back to length.) One
end looks like a Severance brand multi-flute countersink, and the other
looks like the inverse (only three flutes, IIRC) with a guide pin to
start it roughly centered.

One of these should to a nice job of both chamfering the ID and
the OD to remove burrs.

The one which I have was made by RCBS.

A quick web serach finds the web page describing it:

URL: http://www.rcbs.com/default.asp?menu=1&s1=4&s2=3&s3=17

The pin may be a bit too large for the 1/4" copper or steel line, as
it is expecting a minimum ID to hold a .17 bullet (0.170").

But Severance does make some OD chamfering tools which are like
an inverse of their multi-flute countersinks.

Thanks Don.

I'll stop by the gunsmith on monday and see what he can get his
hands on. I googled on "Severance" and found their website, I'll
probably call them monday also.
I make a lot of brake and fuel lines for cars and trucks, the
success of the double flare depends on how well the tubing is
chamfered, many times you only get one shot at it before you have
to start from scratch.