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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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Another of those evergreen discussions on whether it is better for a new
turner to purchase a set or "the best tools you can afford" one at a time has begun. Now I'm not one for conspiracy theories, so I really don't believe that sets are made up of the _least_ popular tools to solve a manufacturer's overstock problem. I'm also convinced, given the number of sizes, grinds, lengths and alloys out there, that there cannot be an absolute "best" in any of those categories, or we'd all get it at whatever the price. It's our hobby after all, or for some their livelihood, and hang the expense. May I request a show of hands of all who use _every_ tool in their collection, and equally? All of you liars who raised your hands may sit down - we're interested in honest responses. If you have more than one exemplar, you have a favorite, and the second languishes on the shelf. Or, perhaps you do as I have done, and regrind the profile on that second-best for another job. Pointy gouges for hollowing come easily to my mind. Now how many honest responders think there's a set of tools for spindle turning and a set for bowl turning, and no crossover? Good, everyone realizes that parting tools, scrapers, gouges, and even skews don't care if the wood they're working is between centers or not. I'll go one further, and admit that I have used my beading tool, a double-ground, half inch non-skew ground tool to turn the edges of bowls or put the odd decorative bead on them. I am even one of those fools who uses a roughing gouge to clear away unwanted wood from the convex outer profile. One thing I have seldom done is use a bowl gouge or ring tool on spindle work, but they're rarely included in sets. So, if every tool included in the average set, and a couple which are not, can work both between centers and off a faceplate/chuck ... why not buy a set? Certainly other considerations enter. How many felt competent and confident of their ability to touch their expensive gouge to that whirring grinding wheel when they were beginning? No trepidation? Thought I told you liars to keep out of this! A little too heavy or long on the wheel, and your sixty-dollar tool is toast. Or at least a lot shorter by the time you try to replicate the original grind. Makes that inexpensive set look a lot more economical than "the best," now doesn't it. Less invested means less to lose ... so why not buy cheap? I have never mastered a tool I didn't own, though I have used others' for demonstrations. Makes me glad I got the widest variety of tools I could afford to experiment on while developing my skills, even though that diamond point scraper had to have been the most useless tool in the shop until I reground it to a beading tool. I'M GLAD I BOUGHT A SET, it encouraged me to experiment and grow. Unless you have constant access to a large number of other people's tools, I'd advise all of you beginners to do likewise. |
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