Well, technically, day two, but today was the first day we welded.
My first bead was terrible. Actually, that's an insult to all the
terrible things in the world. Nothing about it was really right except
the amperage, which my teacher set for me.
But after a few hours I had nice, straight, regular beads. Somewhere
in there I switched helmets because the one I had was pinching hair out
of my head. Turns out helmet 1 had a ****ty lens in it and helmet 2
improved my welds a hundred times over.
But there was excitement. A tiny bit of hot crap got into the neck
of my shirt, I jumped and dropped the electrode right on the table.
BOOM! Sparks everywhere.
After getting laughed at by the class and hammering the electrode
loose from the table with my instructor explaining the best angle to
strike it from I went back to work.
I can't wait for next friday!
The status on my anvil project depends on how well I'm doing in a
month from now.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

Bring the anvil to class with you. Odds are you are running 6010 rod so
you can learn technique, It ought to be good enough to fill the lowest
areas before you hard face.

I took a 9 week arc welding class at and was great. I bought a Miller Bobcat 225 and I love it. I have a place in PA that laser cuts metal from CAD drawings for me (BenCo 1-610-273-3364) and they cut metal parts that are copies of old Gravely weldments. I weld them up and paint them and sell them on eBay for a good profit. I have sold hundreds of them. The thing about welding is practice, practice, practice... The more you do it the better you will get. I have fixed our riding mower and my backhoe. Being able to weld at home is great. I want to get a good MIG welder too like a Millermatic 175. Get one of the instant on helmets, they are great. I got a $350 one on eBay for $80 and all it needed was a $1 acrylic LCD cover.
Jon

BB
Spend the couple of dollars at the welding store to get a new lens and
protector plate for the helmet your using in class. I found that when
taking classes the school helmets were usually poor.
lg
no neat sig line

"B.B." u wrote in message
news
Well, technically, day two, but today was the first day we welded.
My first bead was terrible. Actually, that's an insult to all the
terrible things in the world. Nothing about it was really right except
the amperage, which my teacher set for me.
But after a few hours I had nice, straight, regular beads. Somewhere
in there I switched helmets because the one I had was pinching hair out
of my head. Turns out helmet 1 had a ****ty lens in it and helmet 2
improved my welds a hundred times over.
But there was excitement. A tiny bit of hot crap got into the neck
of my shirt, I jumped and dropped the electrode right on the table.
BOOM! Sparks everywhere.
After getting laughed at by the class and hammering the electrode
loose from the table with my instructor explaining the best angle to
strike it from I went back to work.
I can't wait for next friday!
The status on my anvil project depends on how well I'm doing in a
month from now.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

Amen to that. When I use the school welder, I bring my own lens and
protector. Makes for MUCH better welds.

larry g wrote:

BB
Spend the couple of dollars at the welding store to get a new lens and
protector plate for the helmet your using in class. I found that when
taking classes the school helmets were usually poor.
lg
no neat sig line

"B.B." u wrote in message
news
Well, technically, day two, but today was the first day we welded.
My first bead was terrible. Actually, that's an insult to all the
terrible things in the world. Nothing about it was really right except
the amperage, which my teacher set for me.
But after a few hours I had nice, straight, regular beads. Somewhere
in there I switched helmets because the one I had was pinching hair out
of my head. Turns out helmet 1 had a ****ty lens in it and helmet 2
improved my welds a hundred times over.
But there was excitement. A tiny bit of hot crap got into the neck
of my shirt, I jumped and dropped the electrode right on the table.
BOOM! Sparks everywhere.
After getting laughed at by the class and hammering the electrode
loose from the table with my instructor explaining the best angle to
strike it from I went back to work.
I can't wait for next friday!
The status on my anvil project depends on how well I'm doing in a
month from now.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

"B.B." u wrote in message
news
Well, technically, day two, but today was the first day we welded.
My first bead was terrible. Actually, that's an insult to all the
terrible things in the world. Nothing about it was really right except
the amperage, which my teacher set for me.
But after a few hours I had nice, straight, regular beads. Somewhere
in there I switched helmets because the one I had was pinching hair out
of my head. Turns out helmet 1 had a ****ty lens in it and helmet 2
improved my welds a hundred times over.
But there was excitement. A tiny bit of hot crap got into the neck
of my shirt, I jumped and dropped the electrode right on the table.
BOOM! Sparks everywhere.
After getting laughed at by the class and hammering the electrode
loose from the table with my instructor explaining the best angle to
strike it from I went back to work.
I can't wait for next friday!
The status on my anvil project depends on how well I'm doing in a
month from now.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/



It only took one day to cover the (IMHO, VERY necessary) classrooom /
textbook / theory portion of the class?

Shawn

"B.B." u wrote in message
news
Well, technically, day two, but today was the first day we welded.
My first bead was terrible. Actually, that's an insult to all the
terrible things in the world. Nothing about it was really right except
the amperage, which my teacher set for me.
But after a few hours I had nice, straight, regular beads. Somewhere
in there I switched helmets because the one I had was pinching hair out
of my head. Turns out helmet 1 had a ****ty lens in it and helmet 2
improved my welds a hundred times over.
But there was excitement. A tiny bit of hot crap got into the neck
of my shirt, I jumped and dropped the electrode right on the table.
BOOM! Sparks everywhere.
After getting laughed at by the class and hammering the electrode
loose from the table with my instructor explaining the best angle to
strike it from I went back to work.
I can't wait for next friday!
The status on my anvil project depends on how well I'm doing in a
month from now.

Train arm muscles. Get a simulated electrode and hold steady distance over
work. Make passes forward and back, do this for an hour. Practice at home.
If you can get instruction with oxy/fuel torch, get it. Learn to weld with
gas. More flexible than stick in the home. Learn to braze. Go to the library
and get a different text to read for variety

On Sat, 22 Jan 2005 03:30:28 GMT, bart wrote:

Only ONE "bit of hot crap" down the front?
Arrgh! Your belly'll soon callous& get used to the hot beads down
there! { getting in above the leather apron}
Many a shirt had burnholes around the bellybutton in my first weeks of
high school welding..not to mention the flesh! ;-)
Perhaps NOT tucking in the shirt might be a safety idea!
G'luck! ( PS: automatic helmets & wire feed is easier)

Carhartt Bib Overalls are di rigure for welding, particularly when
topped by a leather half jacket.

http://www.supercasuals.com/enlarge_...artt/R01_L.jpg
http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/c000043.htm

These arent bad either

http://www.magidglove.com/product.as...88&pf%5Fid=701

Gunner




On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 12:57:43 -0600, "B.B."
. ru wrote:

Well, technically, day two, but today was the first day we welded.
My first bead was terrible. Actually, that's an insult to all the
terrible things in the world. Nothing about it was really right except
the amperage, which my teacher set for me.
But after a few hours I had nice, straight, regular beads. Somewhere
in there I switched helmets because the one I had was pinching hair out
of my head. Turns out helmet 1 had a ****ty lens in it and helmet 2
improved my welds a hundred times over.
But there was excitement. A tiny bit of hot crap got into the neck
of my shirt, I jumped and dropped the electrode right on the table.
BOOM! Sparks everywhere.
After getting laughed at by the class and hammering the electrode
loose from the table with my instructor explaining the best angle to
strike it from I went back to work.
I can't wait for next friday!
The status on my anvil project depends on how well I'm doing in a
month from now.

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child -
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke

In article ,
"Shawn" shawn_75ATcomcastDOTnet wrote:

[...]

It only took one day to cover the (IMHO, VERY necessary) classrooom /
textbook / theory portion of the class?

Shawn

Actually, each Friday we have class and the first hour at least is
going to be theory. And every once in a while he'll stop all of us and
give a short lecture.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 23:12:33 +0000, GravelyGuy
wrote:


from CAD drawings for me (BenCo 1-610-273-3364) and they cut metal
parts that are copies of old Gravely weldments. I weld them up and
paint them and sell them

Jon

It's nice to know there's somebody in the group that knows Gravely's.
My 12 HP was new in 1983 and is running fine. Wish I had had the
space and finances to hang onto the old 1963 8 HP I completely
rebuilt and painted. I used it as the trade-in way back then.
Because my mowing expanded to 4 acres and my mowing helper (son) went
to college I had to move on to a bigger mower and got a Grasshopper
with a 52" cut. Another commercial machine that a metal worker could
love because it's repairable.

RWL


******* Remove NOSPAM to reply *******

In article , "bw"
wrote:

[...]

Train arm muscles. Get a simulated electrode and hold steady distance over
work. Make passes forward and back, do this for an hour. Practice at home.
If you can get instruction with oxy/fuel torch, get it. Learn to weld with
gas. More flexible than stick in the home. Learn to braze. Go to the library
and get a different text to read for variety

I like the training idea. I think I'll do it with the
stiff-as-all-hell welding gloves on too, to beef up the hands.
I've done a bit of gas welding & brazing in the past, but it was a
couple of years back, so I don't remember squat, though I doubt it'd be
too difficult to get going again.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

If you think a hot one down your shirt is exciting, wait until you drop
a big one in your shoe. That's why I wear boots to weld. G
Bugs

"Bugs" wrote in message
oups.com...
If you think a hot one down your shirt is exciting, wait until you drop
a big one in your shoe. That's why I wear boots to weld. G
Bugs

Yes, just wait till he gets to overhead training. Soon, he will know the
feeling of having a piece of clothing catch fire, and how fast he can put it
out with his gloves.

"bw" wrote in message
...
| "Bugs" wrote in message
| oups.com...
| If you think a hot one down your shirt is exciting, wait until you drop
| a big one in your shoe. That's why I wear boots to weld. G
| Bugs
|
| Yes, just wait till he gets to overhead training. Soon, he will know the
| feeling of having a piece of clothing catch fire, and how fast he can put
it
| out with his gloves.

When I was learning, the guy insisted that I wear long sleeve cotton
shirts. At the time, polyester was still around, and could do evil things
to your body if it caught fire or melted. I buttoned them all the way up
and down, and wore the bib religiously, and rarely got bit. I did have my
shirt burn away from a secondary flame while gas welding, and all I got was
some burnt hair and a hole in my shirt. Felt very lucky for that warning!

carl mciver wrote:
"bw" wrote

| "Bugs" wrote

| If you think a hot one down your shirt is exciting, wait until you drop
| a big one in your shoe. That's why I wear boots to weld. G
| Bugs
|
| Yes, just wait till he gets to overhead training. Soon, he will know the
| feeling of having a piece of clothing catch fire, and how fast he can put
| it out with his gloves.

When I was learning, the guy insisted that I wear long sleeve cotton
shirts. At the time, polyester was still around, and could do evil things
to your body if it caught fire or melted.

I went down to the local army/navy surplus store and got one of
those heavy fatigue shirts. It is a reasonable compromise between
comfort and protection. Mine is cotton, but if you find a wool
one, that is also very good. A big spark may make you smell like
a scorched sheep, but it won't melt. :-)

Get a size larger than you normally wear so it isn't pressed tight
against your skin. The air gap will help protect your skin.

Alan

"Alan Frisbie" wrote in message
...

| I went down to the local army/navy surplus store and got one of
| those heavy fatigue shirts. It is a reasonable compromise between
| comfort and protection. Mine is cotton, but if you find a wool
| one, that is also very good. A big spark may make you smell like
| a scorched sheep, but it won't melt. :-)

Excellent idea! Although I wonder, since these were in use so long ago
and most surplus stores have moved on to overprices hunting/fishing outfits
that decent stuff like that seems hard to come by. I'll have to look around
again.

On Sun, 23 Jan 2005 22:00:07 GMT, "carl mciver"
wrote:

"Alan Frisbie" wrote in message
...

| I went down to the local army/navy surplus store and got one of
| those heavy fatigue shirts. It is a reasonable compromise between
| comfort and protection. Mine is cotton, but if you find a wool
| one, that is also very good. A big spark may make you smell like
| a scorched sheep, but it won't melt. :-)

Excellent idea! Although I wonder, since these were in use so long ago
and most surplus stores have moved on to overprices hunting/fishing outfits
that decent stuff like that seems hard to come by. I'll have to look around
again.

If you could find a nomex flight suit it sounds like that would be
ideal.

--RC
"Sometimes history doesn't repeat itself. It just yells
'can't you remember anything I've told you?' and lets
fly with a club.
-- John W. Cambell Jr.

| | I went down to the local army/navy surplus store and got one of
| | those heavy fatigue shirts. It is a reasonable compromise between
| | comfort and protection. Mine is cotton, but if you find a wool
| | one, that is also very good. A big spark may make you smell like
| | a scorched sheep, but it won't melt. :-)
|
| Excellent idea! Although I wonder, since these were in use so long
ago
| and most surplus stores have moved on to overprices hunting/fishing
outfits
| that decent stuff like that seems hard to come by. I'll have to look
around
| again.
|
| If you could find a nomex flight suit it sounds like that would be
| ideal.

I just remembered that I have some cammies up in the attic. Never had a
desire to wear them again, but this might be a good reason. I think they're
cotton; can't imagine why they wouldn't be, nuthin' but the best for Uncle
Sam.

On Mon, 24 Jan 2005 04:14:00 GMT, "carl mciver"
wrote:

| | I went down to the local army/navy surplus store and got one of
| | those heavy fatigue shirts. It is a reasonable compromise between
| | comfort and protection. Mine is cotton, but if you find a wool
| | one, that is also very good. A big spark may make you smell like
| | a scorched sheep, but it won't melt. :-)
|
| Excellent idea! Although I wonder, since these were in use so long
ago
| and most surplus stores have moved on to overprices hunting/fishing
outfits
| that decent stuff like that seems hard to come by. I'll have to look
around
| again.
|
| If you could find a nomex flight suit it sounds like that would be
| ideal.

I just remembered that I have some cammies up in the attic. Never had a
desire to wear them again, but this might be a good reason. I think they're
cotton; can't imagine why they wouldn't be, nuthin' but the best for Uncle
Sam.

Besides which, you can think of every, smudge, grease stain, burn and
tear you put in them as another victory over that part of your life.

--RC
"Sometimes history doesn't repeat itself. It just yells
'can't you remember anything I've told you?' and lets
fly with a club.
-- John W. Cambell Jr.

This time was much better than last time. I buttoned up my collar
and didn't get any hot **** down there or drop the electrode. I didn't
manage to get out to pick up a welding cap this week, so I burned by
head a couple of times, but nothing serious.
So I got clever and decided to weld a handle to the piece of scrap I
was practicing on. For just a split second I hesitated and wondered to
myself, "I wonder if we're not supposed to do this?" That was quickly
trampled over by another thought, "**** that, this is a welding class."
The handle was quite convenient since fumbling with pliers with gloves
on is such a hassle.
I'm making good progress and each day if we master whatever he wants
us to do that day before the end of class, we have the option of leaving
early. I think I'll be able to cram in some anvil fixing in another two
weeks or so. May have to forgo the hard facing, though, as I appear to
be flat broke for the foreseeable future. Damn it.
Questions I forgot to ask while I was the when stick welding, how
do you reliably start the arc without sticking? Currently I poke
straight at the plate and pull back to around a quarter inch then move
back down and lay the bead.
Usually works without a hitch, but sometimes my electrode sticks.
Typically, when that happens it'll stick again and again unless I wait a
bit before trying again or move to another spot and start there. Is
there some reason for it to keep sticking, or is it more like I'm just
getting aggravated?

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

B.B. wrote:

This time was much better than last time. I buttoned up my collar
and didn't get any hot **** down there or drop the electrode. I didn't
manage to get out to pick up a welding cap this week, so I burned by
head a couple of times, but nothing serious.
So I got clever and decided to weld a handle to the piece of scrap I
was practicing on. For just a split second I hesitated and wondered to
myself, "I wonder if we're not supposed to do this?" That was quickly
trampled over by another thought, "**** that, this is a welding class."
The handle was quite convenient since fumbling with pliers with gloves
on is such a hassle.
I'm making good progress and each day if we master whatever he wants
us to do that day before the end of class, we have the option of leaving
early. I think I'll be able to cram in some anvil fixing in another two
weeks or so. May have to forgo the hard facing, though, as I appear to
be flat broke for the foreseeable future. Damn it.
Questions I forgot to ask while I was the when stick welding, how
do you reliably start the arc without sticking? Currently I poke
straight at the plate and pull back to around a quarter inch then move
back down and lay the bead.
Usually works without a hitch, but sometimes my electrode sticks.
Typically, when that happens it'll stick again and again unless I wait a
bit before trying again or move to another spot and start there. Is
there some reason for it to keep sticking, or is it more like I'm just
getting aggravated?

If I can I kind a scratch the end of the stick against the work -- that
keeps it moving so it's less likely to stick. If I do have to go
straight on I use a motion better described as a "bounce" -- but it
often sticks when I do that.

On a really frustrating day I'll start the arc someplace easy and leave
a trail of beads and slag 2" long to reach the place I really want to weld.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

B.B. wrote:


Questions I forgot to ask while I was the when stick welding, how
do you reliably start the arc without sticking? Currently I poke
straight at the plate and pull back to around a quarter inch then move
back down and lay the bead.

Back in high school my shop teacher told us
to "strike it like a match" At first it will
take an inch or so to do it consistently without
sticking. After you can do that, work on doing
it in a 1/4" or 1/2". You end up with sort of
a semicircular motion dipping the electrode down,
grazing the work and pulling the arc up to working
distance.

"B.B." u wrote in message
news
| Questions I forgot to ask while I was the when stick welding, how
| do you reliably start the arc without sticking? Currently I poke
| straight at the plate and pull back to around a quarter inch then move
| back down and lay the bead.
| Usually works without a hitch, but sometimes my electrode sticks.
| Typically, when that happens it'll stick again and again unless I wait a
| bit before trying again or move to another spot and start there. Is
| there some reason for it to keep sticking, or is it more like I'm just
| getting aggravated?


I learned to do this before I even struck an arc. No power, no helmet,
and just swinging the tip of the rod in little loops, barely grazing the
work. Depending on your work change the shape and plane of the loop. After
awhile you close your eyes and just feel it. I had this down well enough
that I was able to start an arc without even physical contact. but that was
a long time ago. The idea is that you get the feel of starting the arc then
when you go to actually do it, it's almost second nature. When actually
welding, you can then feel whether you have an arc or not because it
actually pushes back. I watched a guy weld a couple pieces together behind
his back. Beautiful job. He did it all by feel. That's someone who knows
how his weld is going not by looking at a buried puddle in the slag, but by
how it all feels. It's definitely _not_ in the book!
Sometimes I have to tap the tip if I'm in a tight spot or trying to
restart at an exact spot. Practice this a bit, too. The process is just a
bit different when doing a new rod vs. one that's been burned away a bit,
but doing it by feel is best, especially since auto darkening didn't exist
back then.

In article ,
Tim Wescott wrote:

[...]

On a really frustrating day I'll start the arc someplace easy and leave
a trail of beads and slag 2" long to reach the place I really want to weld.

Heh, I've done a couple of those. Or I'll wonder "Hmm, where am I?"
and back out to a LONG arc to light up the plate enough for me to see
where I'm at. Not too pretty, so I'm trying to break that habit.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

"B.B." u wrote in message
news
This time was much better than last time. I buttoned up my collar
and didn't get any hot **** down there or drop the electrode. I didn't
manage to get out to pick up a welding cap this week, so I burned by
head a couple of times, but nothing serious.
So I got clever and decided to weld a handle to the piece of scrap I
was practicing on. For just a split second I hesitated and wondered to
myself, "I wonder if we're not supposed to do this?" That was quickly
trampled over by another thought, "**** that, this is a welding class."
The handle was quite convenient since fumbling with pliers with gloves
on is such a hassle.
I'm making good progress and each day if we master whatever he wants
us to do that day before the end of class, we have the option of leaving
early. I think I'll be able to cram in some anvil fixing in another two
weeks or so. May have to forgo the hard facing, though, as I appear to
be flat broke for the foreseeable future. Damn it.
Questions I forgot to ask while I was the when stick welding, how
do you reliably start the arc without sticking? Currently I poke
straight at the plate and pull back to around a quarter inch then move
back down and lay the bead.
Usually works without a hitch, but sometimes my electrode sticks.
Typically, when that happens it'll stick again and again unless I wait a
bit before trying again or move to another spot and start there. Is
there some reason for it to keep sticking, or is it more like I'm just
getting aggravated?

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

That will come automatically with practice. Different rod diameters,
coatings have different characteristics. Also, your amp setting may be a bit
low. try turning it up about 10 amps. I'm guessing you are learning with 1/8
inch 6013

On Fri, 28 Jan 2005 16:19:35 -0600, "B.B."
u wrote:

Usually works without a hitch, but sometimes my electrode sticks.
Typically, when that happens it'll stick again and again unless I wait a
bit before trying again or move to another spot and start there. Is
there some reason for it to keep sticking, or is it more like I'm just
getting aggravated?

Im not a welder, nor do I play one on tv..but there appears to be two
ways to start an arc

Jabbing, and scratching. I prefer most of the time to simply start a
smidge to the right side of where Im starting (assuming a left to
right weld line) and drag the rod a bit and the arc starts and them Im
at the beginning of the weld and I can start the puddle and go.

This takes practice. Also the rod will stick if the amps are too low
and/or the rod is crappy. I kid Ive been working with in welding, was
a jabber and was always hanging the rod until I showed him the
scratch. Now he is doing pretty good.

Gunner



" We have all heard that a million monkeys banging on a million
typewriters will eventually reproduce the entire works of
Shakespeare...Thanks to AOL and WebTv, we know this is not possible."

"B.B." u wrote in message
news
SNIP
| The bit about feel reminds me of another development today, I could
| feel the weld as I was working. When I started last week I had
| absolutely no feel at all--it was 100% visual, which would explain why
| the bad helmet had such an enormous impact. By the end of today's class
| I could definitely feel the arc and I could feel the puddle as I pushed
| it around. The result was a much better weld, and I could start
| focusing on where I was headed instead of drifting around. I could also
| stop thinking about arc length because my arm kept adjusting that for me.
| I like this newsgroup.

Excellent! You'll find that you can close your eyes and focus on how
"the feeling" tells you what to do. "Feel the power of The Force, Luke."
Don't sweat what the welds look like right now, and if the instructor
knows what you're doing he'll actually leave you along because you're then
_way_ ahead of the rest of the class, maybe even him. You might find
eventually that your blind welds look better than the ones you get to look
at. Welding with your eyes closed inside a corner will be something you can
do until the electrode runs out. Truly a cool trick.
Actually, I must admit that now that I remembered this exercise I ought
to go do it myself and get back on it. This is one of those things that's
not in any book. I mentioned the more skilled among us collecting this kind
of stuff for a good welding book some time ago and this is the exact type of
thing I was talking about.

Today I realized that my eyes are a wee bit on the sensitive side.
And not just because I flashed myself twice. (:
A little back story: I had a rather severe eye infection at the
beginning of the semester, so I was partially blinded. Anyway, it's one
of those things you just have to wait out, and around tuesday or
wednesday I got rid of that last bit of cloudyness. Turns out that fuzz
was shielding my eyes a bit.
The result, I have to use a #11 filter instead of a #10 now. I
borrowed one of the teacher's helmets for the day since the class
helmets are all #10 and he'll sell it to me next week--$20. Yippie! I
also had the gaudy, ugly, stupid welding beanie on, which was quite
comfortable when I wasn't thinking how dumb it looked. That'll finish
up my "Stuff to buy for welding" list. Except maybe a shirt and pants
that don't smell like oil.
Today, I pulled ahead of the class, and finished the exercise early,
so next week I'll haul up the anvil and see if I can sneak in a little
work on it. Of course, I now have to figure out the logistical problem
of sticking that flaming hot anvil back in my car at the end of the day.
Perhaps I can befriend a classmate with a truck. Or I can stick it
into a steel toolbox I have lying around and insulate the holy hell out
of it--haul ass home before I toast my upholstery.
I was pondering all of this just as a hot chunk of slag hit me just
below the eye. Damnit! I have since learned how to hammer at such an
angle to spray the chips away from me.
The electrode got stuck a few times again, but nowhere near as often
or as badly as before. A little more CHDW* practice and I should have
it down.
Practice, practice, practice. Big vise grips are good too.

Question: do I need to be extra-careful to watch for porosity at the
start of a bead because of some physical phenomenon, or am I just moving
too quickly after I start a bead?
My first few beads today were pretty bad about pores at the beginning
of each bead, but the last were fine. I don't know if that was due to
improvement on my part or because the first time around I was welding on
top of mystery crap and the second time around I was on top of my own
welds.

*CHDW: Coat-Hanger Desk Welding

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

Whatsa "welding beanie"?
Different aps require different filters, eg tig is darker than stick.
Also I have read cautionary tales about viewing cooling welds (white hot to
red to dark), which some say still emits damaging infra red as well as uv.
I think I read this in a machine manual somewhere, as well. I love welding,
but this eye business has quite curtailed my indulgence.
Too bad the welding course I took was run by a 90 year old Alzheimer's
patient. I wound up w/ near second-degree burns from tigging w/o gloves.
Took months to heal. Go figger.

sci.engr.joining.welding is the welding newsgroup, proly get many more
interesting and detailed responses, esp. on technique.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll

"B.B." u wrote in message
news
Today I realized that my eyes are a wee bit on the sensitive side.
And not just because I flashed myself twice. (:
A little back story: I had a rather severe eye infection at the
beginning of the semester, so I was partially blinded. Anyway, it's one
of those things you just have to wait out, and around tuesday or
wednesday I got rid of that last bit of cloudyness. Turns out that fuzz
was shielding my eyes a bit.
The result, I have to use a #11 filter instead of a #10 now. I
borrowed one of the teacher's helmets for the day since the class
helmets are all #10 and he'll sell it to me next week--$20. Yippie! I
also had the gaudy, ugly, stupid welding beanie on, which was quite
comfortable when I wasn't thinking how dumb it looked. That'll finish
up my "Stuff to buy for welding" list. Except maybe a shirt and pants
that don't smell like oil.
Today, I pulled ahead of the class, and finished the exercise early,
so next week I'll haul up the anvil and see if I can sneak in a little
work on it. Of course, I now have to figure out the logistical problem
of sticking that flaming hot anvil back in my car at the end of the day.
Perhaps I can befriend a classmate with a truck. Or I can stick it
into a steel toolbox I have lying around and insulate the holy hell out
of it--haul ass home before I toast my upholstery.
I was pondering all of this just as a hot chunk of slag hit me just
below the eye. Damnit! I have since learned how to hammer at such an
angle to spray the chips away from me.
The electrode got stuck a few times again, but nowhere near as often
or as badly as before. A little more CHDW* practice and I should have
it down.
Practice, practice, practice. Big vise grips are good too.

Question: do I need to be extra-careful to watch for porosity at the
start of a bead because of some physical phenomenon, or am I just moving
too quickly after I start a bead?
My first few beads today were pretty bad about pores at the beginning
of each bead, but the last were fine. I don't know if that was due to
improvement on my part or because the first time around I was welding on
top of mystery crap and the second time around I was on top of my own
welds.

*CHDW: Coat-Hanger Desk Welding

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

In article ,
"HoloBarre©®" wrote:

Whatsa "welding beanie"?

Pointy fabric hat worn under a welding helmet so slag doesn't stay in
your hair. Keeps the "halo" of the helmet from digging in, too.

Different aps require different filters, eg tig is darker than stick.

Yeah, 10 is the minimum, while 11 or 12 is recommended for comfort in
all the standard charts, so I'm not too abnormal.

Also I have read cautionary tales about viewing cooling welds (white hot to
red to dark), which some say still emits damaging infra red as well as uv.
I think I read this in a machine manual somewhere, as well. I love welding,
but this eye business has quite curtailed my indulgence.
Too bad the welding course I took was run by a 90 year old Alzheimer's
patient. I wound up w/ near second-degree burns from tigging w/o gloves.
Took months to heal. Go figger.

I noticed that I didn't much like looking at cooling welds, so I keep
my helmet down until I can't see a glow anymore.

sci.engr.joining.welding is the welding newsgroup, proly get many more
interesting and detailed responses, esp. on technique.

Probably, but I know folks in here, and rcm has been plenty helpful
so far.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

"B.B." u wrote in message
news
Today I realized that my eyes are a wee bit on the sensitive side.
And not just because I flashed myself twice. (:
A little back story: I had a rather severe eye infection at the
beginning of the semester, so I was partially blinded. Anyway, it's one
of those things you just have to wait out, and around tuesday or
wednesday I got rid of that last bit of cloudyness. Turns out that fuzz
was shielding my eyes a bit.
The result, I have to use a #11 filter instead of a #10 now.

You need to wear eye protection UNDER the mask. Cheap disposable plastic
ones at least.
Or get a set of oxy/fuel type goggles, with the yellow lens, the kind that
look like snorkeling goggles.

The more you weld the more you will understand the toll it takes on you.

In article , "bw"
wrote:

"B.B." u wrote in message
news
Today I realized that my eyes are a wee bit on the sensitive side.
And not just because I flashed myself twice. (:
A little back story: I had a rather severe eye infection at the
beginning of the semester, so I was partially blinded. Anyway, it's one
of those things you just have to wait out, and around tuesday or
wednesday I got rid of that last bit of cloudyness. Turns out that fuzz
was shielding my eyes a bit.
The result, I have to use a #11 filter instead of a #10 now.

You need to wear eye protection UNDER the mask. Cheap disposable plastic
ones at least.
Or get a set of oxy/fuel type goggles, with the yellow lens, the kind that
look like snorkeling goggles.

The more you weld the more you will understand the toll it takes on you.

Hmm, can't wear any goggles under my helmet--I have
safety/prescription glasses on and anything that'll fit over them won't
fit under the helmet.
The one I borrowed and plan to buy actually has a yellow filter over
the #11 lens, so I think that should cover me. (but I'm still open to
suggestions) It was certainly a lot more comfortable than other
helmets. Though I don't suppose it would do much for those times I
flashed myself.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

"B.B." u wrote in message
news
Hmm, can't wear any goggles under my helmet--I have
safety/prescription glasses on and anything that'll fit over them won't
fit under the helmet.
The one I borrowed and plan to buy actually has a yellow filter over
the #11 lens, so I think that should cover me. (but I'm still open to
suggestions) It was certainly a lot more comfortable than other
helmets. Though I don't suppose it would do much for those times I
flashed myself.

Then get safety glasses with your script. You must prevent grit from getting
into your eyes. The fumes alone will be acidic when mixed with water/tears.
Put a piece of yellow film over the safety glasses, or get a yellow plastic
flip/clip to go on the safety glasses.

By now you've seen the black stuff that gets into your nose, thats also
going into your eyes.

In article , "bw"
wrote:

"B.B." u wrote in message
news
Hmm, can't wear any goggles under my helmet--I have
safety/prescription glasses on and anything that'll fit over them won't
fit under the helmet.
The one I borrowed and plan to buy actually has a yellow filter over
the #11 lens, so I think that should cover me. (but I'm still open to
suggestions) It was certainly a lot more comfortable than other
helmets. Though I don't suppose it would do much for those times I
flashed myself.

Then get safety glasses with your script. You must prevent grit from getting
into your eyes. The fumes alone will be acidic when mixed with water/tears.
Put a piece of yellow film over the safety glasses, or get a yellow plastic
flip/clip to go on the safety glasses.

By now you've seen the black stuff that gets into your nose, thats also
going into your eyes.

Oh, I think you must have misunderstood me. I'm already wearing
safety glasses--I wouldn't go anywhere near any of this **** without
'em. I'm just wondering if I necessarily need tint on the glasses
themselves, given that my helmet seems to be taking care of all the
light now.
Honestly, I've never heard of doubling up goggles or tinted glasses
with a welding helmet rather than just moving to a darker lens on the
helmet. So I don't necessarily see what benefit I'd gain from putting
shades over my glasses and it seems like it wold be a needless hassle
when positioning and inspecting.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

I hate 6013.
That is all.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

Heh, heh! "Watch the damn puddle, not the flame! DAMMIT!"

G

LLoyd

"B.B." u wrote in message
news
I hate 6013.
That is all.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

B.B. wrote:

I hate 6013.
That is all.

You'll *really* love 6011.

:-)

-jc-