I'd like to build porch railings as a first ornamental iron project. King
Archetectural Metals has a great selection of materials. I'm looking for
suggestions on what material type is a good choice for this project.

For example, should 1 " posts be solid or square tubing? If I use tubing,
the choices are 16 ga (O&P), 14 ga (P&O) and 11 ga plain hot rolled. Any
suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
-Tom

"Tom Bloom" wrote in message
m...
I'd like to build porch railings as a first ornamental iron project. King
Archetectural Metals has a great selection of materials. I'm looking for
suggestions on what material type is a good choice for this project.

For example, should 1 " posts be solid or square tubing? If I use tubing,
the choices are 16 ga (O&P), 14 ga (P&O) and 11 ga plain hot rolled. Any
suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
-Tom



For 1 inch I would use the 11ga hot rolled. For 1/2 I would use solid.

The thin walled tubing is for the junk they sell at Home Depot etc.

The thin stuff looks like it would be found on a trailer somewhere.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

16ga is too small, 14ga is ok for non load bearing posts, use the .120
wall for posts that are anchored and need to resist side loads. The P&O
gurantees a nice surface finish with no surface rust. The mill finish
can be jsut as nice but if your supplier doesn't treat it well, it may
have some surface rust spots.

1" square solid bar is almost exactly 50% more resistant to bending than
a 1" x.120 wall tube but weighs more than twice as much. If your railing
has some right angle bends in it, use the tube. If it is a short stub
for a sidewalk used by your 300 pound mother in law overlooking a
retaining wall and has just just two posts , you might go with the solid
bar.

Tom Bloom wrote:

I'd like to build porch railings as a first ornamental iron project. King
Archetectural Metals has a great selection of materials. I'm looking for
suggestions on what material type is a good choice for this project.

For example, should 1 " posts be solid or square tubing? If I use tubing,
the choices are 16 ga (O&P), 14 ga (P&O) and 11 ga plain hot rolled. Any
suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
-Tom

If it were my mother-in-law and I thought I could get away with
it, I might look into something in a higher gauge.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"RoyJ" wrote in message
ink.net...
16ga is too small, 14ga is ok for non load bearing posts, use
the .120 wall for posts that are anchored and need to resist
side loads. The P&O gurantees a nice surface finish with no
surface rust. The mill finish can be jsut as nice but if your
supplier doesn't treat it well, it may have some surface rust
spots.

1" square solid bar is almost exactly 50% more resistant to
bending than a 1" x.120 wall tube but weighs more than twice as
much. If your railing has some right angle bends in it, use the
tube. If it is a short stub for a sidewalk used by your 300
pound mother in law overlooking a retaining wall and has just
just two posts , you might go with the solid bar.

Tom Bloom wrote:

I'd like to build porch railings as a first ornamental iron
project. King Archetectural Metals has a great selection of
materials. I'm looking for suggestions on what material type
is a good choice for this project.

For example, should 1 " posts be solid or square tubing? If I
use tubing, the choices are 16 ga (O&P), 14 ga (P&O) and 11 ga
plain hot rolled. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
-Tom

Nope, I would go with 28 ga. as a "maximum" if my mother-inlaw had
any chance of leaning on it.

REMEMBER: "This is worth repeating for benefit of al newbies!
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the business to Ken Fischer http://dandyorandas.com/) she has NOT retired from
helping people with sick GF and koi FOR FREE. 251-649-4790 phoning is best for
diagnosis. but, can try email put "help sick fish" in subject. Get your fish at Dandy Orandas
Dandy Orandas Dandy Orandas........you guys got that DANDY ORANDAS

Tom Bloom wrote:

I'd like to build porch railings as a first ornamental iron project. King
Archetectural Metals has a great selection of materials. I'm looking for
suggestions on what material type is a good choice for this project.

For example, should 1 " posts be solid or square tubing? If I use tubing,
the choices are 16 ga (O&P), 14 ga (P&O) and 11 ga plain hot rolled. Any
suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
-Tom



If you go with 1" square tubing and have some scraps of 3/4' steel pipe
around, you might see if you can drive pieces about 10" long into the
bottom ends of the posts if you're gonna be setting them into holes in
stone or concrete.

That'll extend the life of those posts quite a bit should they start
rusting where they go into the holes.

BTW, I still prefer poured lead for securing iron posts into holes in
masonry. I've never had much luck keeping railings from wiggling when
I've used Rockite or similar "expanding cements" to set them in and the
randkids swing on 'em. When lead is used, you can peen it down with a
hammer and punch to close it up if it ever does get a little loose.
Plus, melting and pouring lead yourself has a nice retro feel to it. G

HTH,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public
schools"

Traditional pipe, handrail, and post setting was done with molten
sulphur, not lead. The new expansive set grouts have pretty much
replaced it.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...
Tom Bloom wrote:

I'd like to build porch railings as a first ornamental iron
project. King Archetectural Metals has a great selection of
materials. I'm looking for suggestions on what material type
is a good choice for this project.

For example, should 1 " posts be solid or square tubing? If I
use tubing, the choices are 16 ga (O&P), 14 ga (P&O) and 11 ga
plain hot rolled. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
-Tom

If you go with 1" square tubing and have some scraps of 3/4'
steel pipe around, you might see if you can drive pieces about
10" long into the bottom ends of the posts if you're gonna be
setting them into holes in stone or concrete.

That'll extend the life of those posts quite a bit should they
start rusting where they go into the holes.

BTW, I still prefer poured lead for securing iron posts into
holes in masonry. I've never had much luck keeping railings from
wiggling when I've used Rockite or similar "expanding cements"
to set them in and the randkids swing on 'em. When lead is used,
you can peen it down with a hammer and punch to close it up if
it ever does get a little loose. Plus, melting and pouring lead
yourself has a nice retro feel to it. G

HTH,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in
public
schools"

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...

BTW, I still prefer poured lead for securing iron posts into holes in
masonry. I've never had much luck keeping railings from wiggling when
I've used Rockite or similar "expanding cements" to set them in and the
randkids swing on 'em. When lead is used, you can peen it down with a
hammer and punch to close it up if it ever does get a little loose.
Plus, melting and pouring lead yourself has a nice retro feel to it. G

Jeff,

Aren't you in Mass.? I understood they will make you hire a state licensed
lead abatement contractor if you have lead solder in your rain gutters.G

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

Depends on what kind of relationship you have with your mother inlasw's
kid.

DanG wrote:

If it were my mother-in-law and I thought I could get away with
it, I might look into something in a higher gauge.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"RoyJ" wrote in message
ink.net...

16ga is too small, 14ga is ok for non load bearing posts, use
the .120 wall for posts that are anchored and need to resist
side loads. The P&O gurantees a nice surface finish with no
surface rust. The mill finish can be jsut as nice but if your
supplier doesn't treat it well, it may have some surface rust
spots.

1" square solid bar is almost exactly 50% more resistant to
bending than a 1" x.120 wall tube but weighs more than twice as
much. If your railing has some right angle bends in it, use the
tube. If it is a short stub for a sidewalk used by your 300
pound mother in law overlooking a retaining wall and has just
just two posts , you might go with the solid bar.

Tom Bloom wrote:


I'd like to build porch railings as a first ornamental iron
project. King Archetectural Metals has a great selection of
materials. I'm looking for suggestions on what material type
is a good choice for this project.

For example, should 1 " posts be solid or square tubing? If I
use tubing, the choices are 16 ga (O&P), 14 ga (P&O) and 11 ga
plain hot rolled. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
-Tom

On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 05:51:12 -0600, "DanG" wrote:



Traditional pipe, handrail, and post setting was done with molten
sulphur, not lead. The new expansive set grouts have pretty much
replaced it.

All the railings at my schools (which had _all_ been flamecut off for steel
for the war effort) were set in lead.

This was in the UK

Mark Rand
RTFM

Roger Shoaf wrote:
"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...

BTW, I still prefer poured lead for securing iron posts into holes in
masonry. I've never had much luck keeping railings from wiggling when
I've used Rockite or similar "expanding cements" to set them in and the
randkids swing on 'em. When lead is used, you can peen it down with a
hammer and punch to close it up if it ever does get a little loose.
Plus, melting and pouring lead yourself has a nice retro feel to it. G


Jeff,

Aren't you in Mass.? I understood they will make you hire a state licensed
lead abatement contractor if you have lead solder in your rain gutters.G


Yep, in Winchester, Taxachusetts where it was +4 F this morning, colder
than I've woken up to in a long time.

No gutters on our home, so I don't have to worry about lead solder, but
it wouldn't suprise me if the follower's of Teddy Kennedy and their ilk
focused their attentions in the wrong places once again.

As for the 6 handrail posts secured with lead on my front steps, I trust
the inspectors have more important things to worry about. If they don't
I'll be happy to advise them about several.

When I got done fixing those wobbly handrail posts "for the last time"
with lead, I dragged out my long unused lead soldier molds and showed
youngest son what we used to do for fun long before video games were
even dreamed about -- and the liability nazis forced the A.C. Gilbert
company and others to stop producing lead casting kits for boys.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public
schools"