This is sorta on topic because its for walls in a machine shop. My
shop is a steel building. Inside are steel stud walls that hold the
insulation. Flammable materials, such as acetone, alcohol, and solvent
are present is less than 1 gallon quantities or in a fire protected
parts washer. The other flammable stuff in the shop consists of papers
and cutting oil. So I don't really see a fire hazard in the shop. It
is a no smoking shop. There is a weld area but it is away from
anything that can burn. And all stick welding and torch cutting of
metal is done outside. All that being said, is there a reason NOT to
use 3/8 cdx on the walls instead of 5/8 drywall? It seems to me that
the plywood would be more durable and less likely to suffer any damage
from things banging into it than drywall. Also, the plywood doesn't
need to be taped. Painting and caulking is all the plywood would need.
The shop is full of machines which is one of the reasons I'd like to
avoid taping, mudding, and sanding. All that dust. And labor costs
would be substantially higher with the drywall. I can't do it myself
for at least 6 weeks but I can hire someone to get it done next week.
Thank You,
Eric R Snow

In article , Eric R Snow wrote:

snip

metal is done outside. All that being said, is there a reason NOT to
use 3/8 cdx on the walls instead of 5/8 drywall? It seems to me that
the plywood would be more durable and less likely to suffer any damage
from things banging into it than drywall. Also, the plywood doesn't
need to be taped. Painting and caulking is all the plywood would need.
The shop is full of machines which is one of the reasons I'd like to
avoid taping, mudding, and sanding. All that dust. And labor costs
would be substantially higher with the drywall. I can't do it myself
for at least 6 weeks but I can hire someone to get it done next week.

How about fire-rated plywood? Materials cost might be a bit higher than
nonrated plywood, but you get all the benefits of both the plywood and the
fire retardation.

Ben

I wanted oh, how I wanted to use plywood on my walls in the shop I built.
No way Jose said the city. Double layer of 5/8" drywall, required by code
for an external "garage" tied to the house. I don't know how much you guys
in the Islands worry about inspectors but if there ever were a fire and it
turned out to have been in an unpermitted structure there could be issues
with insurance coverage.

Those are your only reasons. Otherwise plywood is a better choice. Ain't
life grand?

At Tektronix in Beaverton after WWII they put EEs to work building their
own cubicles. They made them all out of plywood. They're still there, nicely
made and varnished, and boy do they look better than the crap they make
white-collar slaves sit in now.

GWE

Eric R Snow wrote:

This is sorta on topic because its for walls in a machine shop. My
shop is a steel building. Inside are steel stud walls that hold the
insulation. Flammable materials, such as acetone, alcohol, and solvent
are present is less than 1 gallon quantities or in a fire protected
parts washer. The other flammable stuff in the shop consists of papers
and cutting oil. So I don't really see a fire hazard in the shop. It
is a no smoking shop. There is a weld area but it is away from
anything that can burn. And all stick welding and torch cutting of
metal is done outside. All that being said, is there a reason NOT to
use 3/8 cdx on the walls instead of 5/8 drywall? It seems to me that
the plywood would be more durable and less likely to suffer any damage
from things banging into it than drywall. Also, the plywood doesn't
need to be taped. Painting and caulking is all the plywood would need.
The shop is full of machines which is one of the reasons I'd like to
avoid taping, mudding, and sanding. All that dust. And labor costs
would be substantially higher with the drywall. I can't do it myself
for at least 6 weeks but I can hire someone to get it done next week.
Thank You,
Eric R Snow

I used cheap prefinished paneling in a light gray wood grain pattern in my
shop. Got it at Home Depot. No fooling around with paint(which I hate)
just nail it up. Perfect.

Randy

"Eric R Snow" wrote in message
...
This is sorta on topic because its for walls in a machine shop. My
shop is a steel building. Inside are steel stud walls that hold the
insulation. Flammable materials, such as acetone, alcohol, and solvent
are present is less than 1 gallon quantities or in a fire protected
parts washer. The other flammable stuff in the shop consists of papers
and cutting oil. So I don't really see a fire hazard in the shop. It
is a no smoking shop. There is a weld area but it is away from
anything that can burn. And all stick welding and torch cutting of
metal is done outside. All that being said, is there a reason NOT to
use 3/8 cdx on the walls instead of 5/8 drywall? It seems to me that
the plywood would be more durable and less likely to suffer any damage
from things banging into it than drywall. Also, the plywood doesn't
need to be taped. Painting and caulking is all the plywood would need.
The shop is full of machines which is one of the reasons I'd like to
avoid taping, mudding, and sanding. All that dust. And labor costs
would be substantially higher with the drywall. I can't do it myself
for at least 6 weeks but I can hire someone to get it done next week.
Thank You,
Eric R Snow

I'd just use the 1/8" prefinished plywood for the walls if there is not a
construction standard for wall panelling.
If you're worried about fireproofing, put the drywall behind it and you
don't need to tape the stuff if you do the wood over it.

--
Why isn't there an Ozone Hole at the NORTH Pole?

On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:24:08 -0800, Grant Erwin
wrote:

Greetings Grant,
I don't know what the county thinks about it. But you saw my shop.
It's not connected to anything but dirt. BTW, I was thinking hard
about making my own backhoe. Sought opinions, Bought the plans. Then a
really good deal comes along. My net cost for upgrading to a 1974 Case
580CK bucket loader/backhoe will be around 1500 bucks. Pretty cheap
for that much fun. And brand new compared to the 1939 9N I have.
Eric

I wanted oh, how I wanted to use plywood on my walls in the shop I built.
No way Jose said the city. Double layer of 5/8" drywall, required by code
for an external "garage" tied to the house. I don't know how much you guys
in the Islands worry about inspectors but if there ever were a fire and it
turned out to have been in an unpermitted structure there could be issues
with insurance coverage.

Those are your only reasons. Otherwise plywood is a better choice. Ain't
life grand?

At Tektronix in Beaverton after WWII they put EEs to work building their
own cubicles. They made them all out of plywood. They're still there, nicely
made and varnished, and boy do they look better than the crap they make
white-collar slaves sit in now.

GWE

Eric R Snow wrote:

This is sorta on topic because its for walls in a machine shop. My
shop is a steel building. Inside are steel stud walls that hold the
insulation. Flammable materials, such as acetone, alcohol, and solvent
are present is less than 1 gallon quantities or in a fire protected
parts washer. The other flammable stuff in the shop consists of papers
and cutting oil. So I don't really see a fire hazard in the shop. It
is a no smoking shop. There is a weld area but it is away from
anything that can burn. And all stick welding and torch cutting of
metal is done outside. All that being said, is there a reason NOT to
use 3/8 cdx on the walls instead of 5/8 drywall? It seems to me that
the plywood would be more durable and less likely to suffer any damage
from things banging into it than drywall. Also, the plywood doesn't
need to be taped. Painting and caulking is all the plywood would need.
The shop is full of machines which is one of the reasons I'd like to
avoid taping, mudding, and sanding. All that dust. And labor costs
would be substantially higher with the drywall. I can't do it myself
for at least 6 weeks but I can hire someone to get it done next week.
Thank You,
Eric R Snow

My shop sports about 60% paneling, the rest drywall. The panels support
an amazing amount of weight, there's possibly 5% of the walls that do
not have *something* hanging from them. While you're at it, I'd consider
finding some slat wall. I've been wanting to try the latter for a while,
probably not the entire shop, but parts of it. Really would like to find
a GOB for some retail store front.



Eric R Snow said the following on 1/13/2005 10:55 AM:
This is sorta on topic because its for walls in a machine shop. My
shop is a steel building. Inside are steel stud walls that hold the
insulation. Flammable materials, such as acetone, alcohol, and solvent
are present is less than 1 gallon quantities or in a fire protected
parts washer. The other flammable stuff in the shop consists of papers
and cutting oil. So I don't really see a fire hazard in the shop. It
is a no smoking shop. There is a weld area but it is away from
anything that can burn. And all stick welding and torch cutting of
metal is done outside. All that being said, is there a reason NOT to
use 3/8 cdx on the walls instead of 5/8 drywall? It seems to me that
the plywood would be more durable and less likely to suffer any damage
from things banging into it than drywall. Also, the plywood doesn't
need to be taped. Painting and caulking is all the plywood would need.
The shop is full of machines which is one of the reasons I'd like to
avoid taping, mudding, and sanding. All that dust. And labor costs
would be substantially higher with the drywall. I can't do it myself
for at least 6 weeks but I can hire someone to get it done next week.
Thank You,
Eric R Snow

In article ,
Eric R Snow wrote:

metal is done outside. All that being said, is there a reason NOT to
use 3/8 cdx on the walls instead of 5/8 drywall? It seems to me that
the plywood would be more durable and less likely to suffer any damage
from things banging into it than drywall. Also, the plywood doesn't
need to be taped. Painting and caulking is all the plywood would need.
The shop is full of machines which is one of the reasons I'd like to
avoid taping, mudding, and sanding.

Step one, if you need to make an inspector happy, ask the inspector.
Don't just ask "can I do this, this way?" try expaining the reasons
you'd like to do it that way, and ask if the inspector can suggest a way
that will pass that meets your need, if the method you've thought of
will not, for some reason.

Observation - Shop drywall really doesn't need to be sanded. Who gives a
darn if you can see where the seams are? It's not a living room.
Probably does have to be taped and mudded to keep the inspector happy
WRT fire. I can't see any reason having to do with function that it
should need sanding, and without sanding, most of the mess is gone.

If you have to have the drywall, you can probably put plywood over the
lower sections for the damage control, and that might get you out of
seam work on the drywall under it - ask.

I seem to recall that some buildings use steel panels on the inside - if
that works for whatever inspection you need to pass, it should be quick
and clean (prepainted, as far as I recall), though I suspect it could
also be loud. Probably high material cost and low labor cost.

--
Cats, Coffee, Chocolate...vices to live by

"Eric R Snow" wrote in message
...
This is sorta on topic because its for walls in a machine shop. My
shop is a steel building. Inside are steel stud walls that hold the

[snip]

would be substantially higher with the drywall. I can't do it myself
for at least 6 weeks but I can hire someone to get it done next week.
Thank You,
Eric R Snow

The big negative I see it that based on my trips to the lumber store lately
that is no one manufacturing 3/8" or 1/2" plywood that isn't all warped and
crappy looking unless you go with the furniture grades. You might take a
look at Hardipanel which is a 4' by 8' cement product. Used it to side my
new garage and it worked out pretty well. Just be prepared to sacrifice a
circular saw and a dust mask.

http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner...hardipanel.php

You also might want to check with your insurance company and pose a
"hypothetical" question to see if their answer makes your decision.

Steve.

"Eric R Snow" wrote in message
...
| This is sorta on topic because its for walls in a machine shop. My
| shop is a steel building. Inside are steel stud walls that hold the
| insulation. Flammable materials, such as acetone, alcohol, and solvent
| are present is less than 1 gallon quantities or in a fire protected
| parts washer. The other flammable stuff in the shop consists of papers
| and cutting oil. So I don't really see a fire hazard in the shop. It
| is a no smoking shop. There is a weld area but it is away from
| anything that can burn. And all stick welding and torch cutting of
| metal is done outside. All that being said, is there a reason NOT to
| use 3/8 cdx on the walls instead of 5/8 drywall? It seems to me that
| the plywood would be more durable and less likely to suffer any damage
| from things banging into it than drywall. Also, the plywood doesn't
| need to be taped. Painting and caulking is all the plywood would need.
| The shop is full of machines which is one of the reasons I'd like to
| avoid taping, mudding, and sanding. All that dust. And labor costs
| would be substantially higher with the drywall. I can't do it myself
| for at least 6 weeks but I can hire someone to get it done next week.
| Thank You,
| Eric R Snow

Put up sheetrock then a 1/4" or less piece of plywood over it. The
sheetrock provides fire resistance, happy inspectors, and some degree of
noise and thermal insulation. With the plywood you can put all kinds of
stuff on it, paint, tools, or whatever. Perfectly legal as well as
functional.
Getting to the point where sheetrock is cheaper than plywood anyway.

Eric R Snow wrote in
:

This is sorta on topic because its for walls in a machine shop. My
shop is a steel building. Inside are steel stud walls that hold the
insulation. Flammable materials, such as acetone, alcohol, and solvent
are present is less than 1 gallon quantities or in a fire protected
parts washer. The other flammable stuff in the shop consists of papers
and cutting oil. So I don't really see a fire hazard in the shop. It
is a no smoking shop. There is a weld area but it is away from
anything that can burn. And all stick welding and torch cutting of
metal is done outside. All that being said, is there a reason NOT to
use 3/8 cdx on the walls instead of 5/8 drywall? It seems to me that
the plywood would be more durable and less likely to suffer any damage
from things banging into it than drywall. Also, the plywood doesn't
need to be taped. Painting and caulking is all the plywood would need.
The shop is full of machines which is one of the reasons I'd like to
avoid taping, mudding, and sanding. All that dust. And labor costs
would be substantially higher with the drywall. I can't do it myself
for at least 6 weeks but I can hire someone to get it done next week.
Thank You,
Eric R Snow


OSB, painted white.
The pattern on the OSB lends considerably well to scattering light about.



--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 08:55:31 -0800, Eric R Snow wrote:

This is sorta on topic because its for walls in a machine shop. My
shop is a steel building. Inside are steel stud walls that hold the
insulation. Flammable materials, such as acetone, alcohol, and solvent
are present is less than 1 gallon quantities or in a fire protected
parts washer. The other flammable stuff in the shop consists of papers
and cutting oil. So I don't really see a fire hazard in the shop. It
is a no smoking shop. There is a weld area but it is away from
anything that can burn. And all stick welding and torch cutting of
metal is done outside. All that being said, is there a reason NOT to
use 3/8 cdx on the walls instead of 5/8 drywall? It seems to me that
the plywood would be more durable and less likely to suffer any damage
from things banging into it than drywall. Also, the plywood doesn't
need to be taped. Painting and caulking is all the plywood would need.
The shop is full of machines which is one of the reasons I'd like to
avoid taping, mudding, and sanding. All that dust. And labor costs
would be substantially higher with the drywall. I can't do it myself
for at least 6 weeks but I can hire someone to get it done next week.
Thank You,
Eric R Snow

I'm going for Cement Bonded Particle board in my new shop. It's stronger then
drywall/plasterboard and it's fireproof the only finishing it needs is
painting and it can be used without that if you like boring colours. I've had
a couple of sheets of it leant up outside my garage in the sunshine, rain and
frost since July last year and they don't seem to have decayed or distorted at
all.

Regards
Mark Rand
RTFM

"Eric R Snow" wrote in message
...
This is sorta on topic because its for walls in a machine shop. My
shop is a steel building. Inside are steel stud walls that hold the
insulation. Flammable materials, such as acetone, alcohol, and solvent
are present is less than 1 gallon quantities or in a fire protected
parts washer. The other flammable stuff in the shop consists of papers
and cutting oil. So I don't really see a fire hazard in the shop. It
is a no smoking shop. There is a weld area but it is away from
anything that can burn. And all stick welding and torch cutting of
metal is done outside. All that being said, is there a reason NOT to
use 3/8 cdx on the walls instead of 5/8 drywall? It seems to me that
the plywood would be more durable and less likely to suffer any damage
from things banging into it than drywall. Also, the plywood doesn't
need to be taped. Painting and caulking is all the plywood would need.
The shop is full of machines which is one of the reasons I'd like to
avoid taping, mudding, and sanding. All that dust. And labor costs
would be substantially higher with the drywall. I can't do it myself
for at least 6 weeks but I can hire someone to get it done next week.

Vinyl covered gypsum board. Looks good, low upkeep, easy to clean, and it's
considered non combustible.
http://www.nationalgypsum.com/litera...de/Durasan.pdf

Dan

Eric R Snow wrote:

This is sorta on topic because its for walls in a machine shop. My
shop is a steel building. Inside are steel stud walls that hold the
insulation. Flammable materials, such as acetone, alcohol, and solvent
are present is less than 1 gallon quantities or in a fire protected
parts washer. The other flammable stuff in the shop consists of papers
and cutting oil. So I don't really see a fire hazard in the shop. It
is a no smoking shop. There is a weld area but it is away from
anything that can burn. And all stick welding and torch cutting of
metal is done outside. All that being said, is there a reason NOT to
use 3/8 cdx on the walls instead of 5/8 drywall? It seems to me that
the plywood would be more durable and less likely to suffer any damage
from things banging into it than drywall. Also, the plywood doesn't
need to be taped. Painting and caulking is all the plywood would need.
The shop is full of machines which is one of the reasons I'd like to
avoid taping, mudding, and sanding. All that dust. And labor costs
would be substantially higher with the drywall. I can't do it myself
for at least 6 weeks but I can hire someone to get it done next week.
Thank You,
Eric R Snow
Doing drywall is no big thing - screw gun.

If you plan on doing drywall - consider firewall - it is like drywall -
but used in garage walls between the house and behind wood stoves and such.

It is much like drywall but tougher and fire retarding.

Martin

--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

SteveF wrote:

[snip]

You might take a

look at Hardipanel which is a 4' by 8' cement product. Used it to side my
new garage and it worked out pretty well. Just be prepared to sacrifice a
circular saw and a dust mask.

http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner...hardipanel.php


I sided my garage with Hardipanel, as well, and I like it. I'm gonna use it on
certain areas inside the shop, too. It's fireproof, and insect/rot proof (also
comes in 4 x 9 and 4 x 10). Forget about the circular saw, though; I bought a
set of power shears made specifically for cutting fiber-cement board, and it
works great! Almost no mess at all. You can rent them also. Mine is a Porter
Cable, but Kett makes a good one, too.

Joe

Joe wrote in :



SteveF wrote:

[snip]

You might take a

look at Hardipanel which is a 4' by 8' cement product. Used it to
side my new garage and it worked out pretty well. Just be prepared
to sacrifice a circular saw and a dust mask.

http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner...hardipanel.php


I sided my garage with Hardipanel, as well, and I like it. I'm gonna
use it on certain areas inside the shop, too. It's fireproof, and
insect/rot proof (also comes in 4 x 9 and 4 x 10). Forget about the
circular saw, though; I bought a set of power shears made specifically
for cutting fiber-cement board, and it works great! Almost no mess at
all. You can rent them also. Mine is a Porter Cable, but Kett makes a
good one, too.

Joe


Joe, tried to email you but it bounced. Can you give me the model number
of your Porter Cable Shear?
Marty