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| Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#2
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Try induction heating... Wrap a chunk of nickel wire around the part
and hook both ends to your battery... |
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#3
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Alternate heating and cooling (dry ice) and cycles of Kroil (makes Blaster
look like glue) "Jason D." wrote in message ... This is about the 1987 plymouth caravan with carb 2.2L engine. May remember way back when I asked about fixing the managled threaded hole in the water box of 2.2L aluminum alloy head, really so bad that's looks like a chewed up hole than a drilled hole let alone tapped. Well, Got taps and drill bits but was stalled because I couldn't find to borrow or rent electric drill with 3/4" or 1" chuck. Couldn't think of finding a place or mail order (big bucks!!) to buy big drills with 1/2" shanks for 3/8" and 1/2" NPT taps, till my brother pointed me way to Ackland Graingers for tools used for build aluminum hulled coast guard boats several years ago. Got the stepped drill bits in required size and fixed mine up and used a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter for the coolant sensor. DONE. Glad that place is right on same block where our TV shop is on. Boy! Cutting 1/2" NPT in soft aluminum even lubed with cutting fluid is hard work. Had limited space to work with. In a pinch adjustable wrench and 14mm open end wrench working together to minimize side stresses on tap will serve as tap handle. Now I have current question that plaguing me to no end. How can you get a two iron parts that is liberally stuck together with no bolts keeping it together? Say a iron part (EGR valve is bust) is formerly bolted to the iron part which is exhaust manifold. Because it was bolted together and had 17 years on that two parts is literally welded together even there is not much rust scaling. Former owner tried to remove EGR valve before from the rust spots on tube (where back of hammer hits it on back swings). Tried to heat it up twice till EGR valve smoked with brenzomatic carefully because that gas can inverted enough the torch flame goes out with "POP!" It was raw fuel in it slugging the head. Even hammering it, plenty of penetranting fluids. (Couldn't find PB Blaster in Canada Ontario, tried many auto parts stores, where are they?) Got it almost cracked with chisel wedged into seam where gasket would be but still won't budge any farther. Any suggestions to get this rusty iron love mates separated? Cheers, Wizard |
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#4
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"Kevin Beitz" wrote in message om... Try induction heating... Wrap a chunk of nickel wire around the part and hook both ends to your battery... Hmmm... might work for a very short time.... I think it needs AC... |
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#5
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"M" wrote: Hmmm... might work for a very short time.... I think it needs AC... ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I think maybe he meant *nichrome," which works on both AC and DC. Of course, that requires a very broad definition of induction heating. G |
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#6
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In article , Leo
Lichtman says... I think maybe he meant *nichrome," which works on both AC and DC. Of course, that requires a very broad definition of induction heating. G Sump'n tells me that any kind of nichrome wire approach isn't going to heat it much better than the propane torch did, already. g g Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
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#7
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Hi, successes and stuck on rust on iron parts.
This is about the 1987 plymouth caravan with carb 2.2L engine.
May remember way back when I asked about fixing the managled threaded hole in the water box of 2.2L aluminum alloy head, really so bad that's looks like a chewed up hole than a drilled hole let alone tapped. Well, Got taps and drill bits but was stalled because I couldn't find to borrow or rent electric drill with 3/4" or 1" chuck. Couldn't think of finding a place or mail order (big bucks!!) to buy big drills with 1/2" shanks for 3/8" and 1/2" NPT taps, till my brother pointed me way to Ackland Graingers for tools used for build aluminum hulled coast guard boats several years ago. Got the stepped drill bits in required size and fixed mine up and used a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter for the coolant sensor. DONE. Glad that place is right on same block where our TV shop is on. Boy! Cutting 1/2" NPT in soft aluminum even lubed with cutting fluid is hard work. Had limited space to work with. In a pinch adjustable wrench and 14mm open end wrench working together to minimize side stresses on tap will serve as tap handle. Now I have current question that plaguing me to no end. How can you get a two iron parts that is liberally stuck together with no bolts keeping it together? Say a iron part (EGR valve is bust) is formerly bolted to the iron part which is exhaust manifold. Because it was bolted together and had 17 years on that two parts is literally welded together even there is not much rust scaling. Former owner tried to remove EGR valve before from the rust spots on tube (where back of hammer hits it on back swings). Tried to heat it up twice till EGR valve smoked with brenzomatic carefully because that gas can inverted enough the torch flame goes out with "POP!" It was raw fuel in it slugging the head. Even hammering it, plenty of penetranting fluids. (Couldn't find PB Blaster in Canada Ontario, tried many auto parts stores, where are they?) Got it almost cracked with chisel wedged into seam where gasket would be but still won't budge any farther. Any suggestions to get this rusty iron love mates separated? Cheers, Wizard |
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#8
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try more heat - borrow an oxyacetelyne torch and heat it orange
"Jason D." wrote in message ... This is about the 1987 plymouth caravan with carb 2.2L engine. May remember way back when I asked about fixing the managled threaded hole in the water box of 2.2L aluminum alloy head, really so bad that's looks like a chewed up hole than a drilled hole let alone tapped. Well, Got taps and drill bits but was stalled because I couldn't find to borrow or rent electric drill with 3/4" or 1" chuck. Couldn't think of finding a place or mail order (big bucks!!) to buy big drills with 1/2" shanks for 3/8" and 1/2" NPT taps, till my brother pointed me way to Ackland Graingers for tools used for build aluminum hulled coast guard boats several years ago. Got the stepped drill bits in required size and fixed mine up and used a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter for the coolant sensor. DONE. Glad that place is right on same block where our TV shop is on. Boy! Cutting 1/2" NPT in soft aluminum even lubed with cutting fluid is hard work. Had limited space to work with. In a pinch adjustable wrench and 14mm open end wrench working together to minimize side stresses on tap will serve as tap handle. Now I have current question that plaguing me to no end. How can you get a two iron parts that is liberally stuck together with no bolts keeping it together? Say a iron part (EGR valve is bust) is formerly bolted to the iron part which is exhaust manifold. Because it was bolted together and had 17 years on that two parts is literally welded together even there is not much rust scaling. Former owner tried to remove EGR valve before from the rust spots on tube (where back of hammer hits it on back swings). Tried to heat it up twice till EGR valve smoked with brenzomatic carefully because that gas can inverted enough the torch flame goes out with "POP!" It was raw fuel in it slugging the head. Even hammering it, plenty of penetranting fluids. (Couldn't find PB Blaster in Canada Ontario, tried many auto parts stores, where are they?) Got it almost cracked with chisel wedged into seam where gasket would be but still won't budge any farther. Any suggestions to get this rusty iron love mates separated? Cheers, Wizard |
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#9
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#10
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In article ,
(Jason D.) wrote: I'm expressing my doubt, is that kroil that "magicial"? like mine that EGR and exhaust manifold won't let go (there is no bolts holding that part on, just a flat surface stuck together by rust like high end two shim blocks stuck together. Even glue fails under my abuse but this RUST!? Amazing! Kroil is GOOD stuff. I just removed some rusted on exhaust manifold-exhaust pipe nuts, been on so long that the gasket was unrecognizable (probably original 1970); squirted with Kroil and it came off EASY. -- Free men own guns, slaves don't www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/ |
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#11
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Kano labs used to accept checks, but I don't know if they ship outside
the US. They do ship UPS, no problem there. But if your boss doesn't like ordering south of the border, then I guess you'll have to get along with what's available north of the border, won't you! Kroil or any other chemical needs a crack to penetrate. If there's no crack, it's not gonna help. If there is any crack at all, even millionths of an inch, Kroil does eventually penetrate and do the job. Heating to red heat nearly always defeats rust, , but I don't know if your exhaust manifold would tolerate that without cracking. I doubt if you're getting it hot enough to do much good with an ordinary propane torch. If these parts are just mating flat surfaces, I'd suspect a bolt, dowel pin or other fastener might still be in place that you've missed. On Sun, 29 Aug 2004 03:00:54 GMT, (Jason D.) wrote: Oh my. konolabs.com wants credit cards or company P.O. I don't have credit card. My boss doesn't like to order stuff south of border (no offense intended). Is there a no allowed chemical shipping by mail like this kroil? I was thinking of asking somebody like here after sending enough payment for it, cost of shipping to my address (ontario, canada) and small token for your trouble? I'm expressing my doubt, is that kroil that "magicial"? like mine that EGR and exhaust manifold won't let go (there is no bolts holding that part on, just a flat surface stuck together by rust like high end two shim blocks stuck together. Even glue fails under my abuse but this RUST!? Amazing! What about a chemical that will "eat away" rust but leave loose stuff that comes off easily? I was thinking about acid but I knew there should be different chemcials. Cheers, Wizard |
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#12
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On 27 Aug 2004 15:24:48 -0700, jim rozen
wrote: In article , Leo Lichtman says... I think maybe he meant *nichrome," which works on both AC and DC. Of course, that requires a very broad definition of induction heating. G Sump'n tells me that any kind of nichrome wire approach isn't going to heat it much better than the propane torch did, already. RIGHT. :-) Induction heat takes so much to heat this big "fistful" of hunk of an junk iron I'm trying to remove and that car battery is typical 600-800Ah, not a chance. Remember the horsepower vs watt is 1hp = 746W. Pitiful! Even a typical can of propane torch has so MUCH BTU means it has loads and loads of wattage, just be patient. Whooossssssssssooooh... POP! Darn! valve closes, retreats to storage cabient and "hide" behind it bec was windy outside and trying to light BIC (flick, flick, flick owww my thumb!, flick finally!) and crack open that valve till torch lights again. So on till the iron starts to smoke. Switching power induction heating technology is cool stuff through, but takes so much power to pull that off, remember electric isn't free. Have to produce that electrical power somewhere else in the beginning in first place. Gas, oil, etc is right there and efficient at heating up stuff directly. Cheers, Wizard g g Jim -- ================================================= = please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================= = |
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#13
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Um, about the PB Blaster penetranting fluid. Couldn't find it at
Walmart either. Looks like I'll try the Kroil. Cheers, Wizard |
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#14
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Oh my. konolabs.com wants credit cards or company P.O. I don't have
credit card. My boss doesn't like to order stuff south of border (no offense intended). Is there a no allowed chemical shipping by mail like this kroil? I was thinking of asking somebody like here after sending enough payment for it, cost of shipping to my address (ontario, canada) and small token for your trouble? I'm expressing my doubt, is that kroil that "magicial"? like mine that EGR and exhaust manifold won't let go (there is no bolts holding that part on, just a flat surface stuck together by rust like high end two shim blocks stuck together. Even glue fails under my abuse but this RUST!? Amazing! What about a chemical that will "eat away" rust but leave loose stuff that comes off easily? I was thinking about acid but I knew there should be different chemcials. Cheers, Wizard |
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In article , Jason D. says...
Oh my. konolabs.com wants credit cards or company P.O. I don't have credit card. My boss doesn't like to order stuff south of border (no offense intended). Is there a no allowed chemical shipping by mail like this kroil? Check with local gunshops. The one around here stocks it in one pint cans. Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
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On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 10:50:20 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote: Kano labs used to accept checks, but I don't know if they ship outside the US. They do ship UPS, no problem there. But if your boss doesn't like ordering south of the border, then I guess you'll have to get along with what's available north of the border, won't you! Yes, credit cards or PO. And will ship anywhere I think. Kroil or any other chemical needs a crack to penetrate. If there's no crack, it's not gonna help. If there is any crack at all, even millionths of an inch, Kroil does eventually penetrate and do the job. Yes THERE is a crack. Heating to red heat nearly always defeats rust, , but I don't know if your exhaust manifold would tolerate that without cracking. I doubt if you're getting it hot enough to do much good with an ordinary propane torch. Okay. I got huge propane torch with hose to that small heavy cylinder at our shop. I was told that shop used to do A/C but became not worth doing for many reasons. Those mini steel (iron?) cylinder, that is almost 1/3 length of a typical tall metal gases cylinders that you see around garages and labs. If not, I'll see if I can rent or have somebody come over with their oxy&actyle set and get that GLOWING! :-) That gasket should isolate most of heat and it is bolted to exhaust manifold. I'll go ahead and take off the intake manifold which is aluminum alloy and will melt easily way before iron starts to glow. (from my experience from wistressing ex-stepfather carefully heating alum strip and had to quickly bend making into If these parts are just mating flat surfaces, I'd suspect a bolt, dowel pin or other fastener might still be in place that you've missed. Yes, just a flat mating surfaces, held together with studs and nuts. Both nuts was removed by previous owner and still stuck together. I have factory manual for this van and clearly shows the diagram of this EGR as whole. Only two nuts, EGR tube flare nut unbolted already (had to buy this special crovfoot for that. This is chrysler 2.2L carb. Cheers, Wizard |
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#17
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On Sun, 29 Aug 2004 22:42:28 GMT, (Jason D.) wrote:
Yes, just a flat mating surfaces, held together with studs and nuts. Both nuts was removed by previous owner and still stuck together. Ah! If the studs are still in there, that's where I'd focus the heat. Acetylene with a rosebud tip would be very useful. |
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#18
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On Sun, 29 Aug 2004 03:00:54 GMT, (Jason D.) calmly
ranted: Oh my. konolabs.com wants credit cards or company P.O. I don't have credit card. My boss doesn't like to order stuff south of border (no offense intended). Is there a no allowed chemical shipping by mail like this kroil? Many chemicals and NO aerosols can be airfreighted. But these aren't considered hazardous AFAIK so they should be truckable without extra fees. I was thinking of asking somebody like here after sending enough payment for it, cost of shipping to my address (ontario, canada) and small token for your trouble? I haven't tried it, either. If you want me to order some for you, let me know. Gallon sizes look to be the best price. (3 10-oz cans or a 128 oz. gallon for about the same price, $3 less.) A valid email address for me is located on my website. (See sig below.) Maybe you could cover shipping fees. I'm expressing my doubt, is that kroil that "magicial"? like mine that EGR and exhaust manifold won't let go (there is no bolts holding that part on, just a flat surface stuck together by rust like high end two shim blocks stuck together. Even glue fails under my abuse but this RUST!? Amazing! It's old iron and exhaust bolts which will get my main attention from Kroil. But I understand that it's good on weapon maintenance as well. What about a chemical that will "eat away" rust but leave loose stuff that comes off easily? I was thinking about acid but I knew there should be different chemcials. Electrolysis. It's what I'm thinking of using on this .22 barrel of mine with the deeper rust on the end. - Interpreted Interpolations Done Dirt Cheap. ----------- http://diversify.com Website Application Programming |
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#19
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Oh my. konolabs.com wants credit cards or company P.O. I don't have
credit card. My boss doesn't like to order stuff south of border (no offense intended). Is there a no allowed chemical shipping by mail like this kroil? Have you tried Lloyd's Move It? I've never tried Kroil but I've had good success with Move It and a _little_ impact (3/8" drive butterfly). Ted |
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#20
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I saw an ad from Midway, http://www.midwayusa.com
and they are selling Kroil for $3.49 per can, don't know if you have to pay a HAZMAT fee for it. I have better luck with penetrating oils by also using ether starting fluid to help thin it out. It evaporates pretty quickly, but seems to help. May be causing some slight thermal reaction as it evaporates, not sure. Product my dad swore by was Rust-Buster, and it was an ether/oil mixture. Can still get it, but think they've taken the ether out. jim rozen wrote: In article , Jason D. says... Oh my. konolabs.com wants credit cards or company P.O. I don't have credit card. My boss doesn't like to order stuff south of border (no offense intended). Is there a no allowed chemical shipping by mail like this kroil? Check with local gunshops. The one around here stocks it in one pint cans. Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
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