Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #51   Report Post  
Old March 13th 18, 03:56 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: May 2011
Posts: 8,957
Default Shockproof? Really?

On Mon, 12 Mar 2018 07:25:38 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Sun, 11 Mar 2018
17:03:16 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 07:40:56 -0800, pyotr filipivich
wrote:
Larry Jaques on Fri, 09 Mar 2018
08:00:48 -0800 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
I bought the kits eons ago, then made my own centering device.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-...1014/205585492
They came with brad point bits, so they don't drift so easily. Trying
to fit 2 boards together with imprecisely drilled dowel holes is like
herding cats. Jus tain't possible.

Hence the reason I had for wanting a long auger bit. The need for
through holes on two 3" inch boards.


You can buy long brad point bits. https://is.gd/6aBAEs and other
sources.


Will have to look into those.

I forgot to mention dowel centers. You drill holes in one board, put
the centers in the holes, then match up the other board to it and tap
against the points, marking the second board precisely.
https://is.gd/ldqXBh


My problem is: no means to be sure I've the axis of the second
hole aligned with that of the first.


If you don't have a drill press, get one. Or (less ChaChing) get a
drill guide (the tool you strap onto a VSR drill, great if you have a
second drill motor) https://is.gd/PkiEoc

I have the old 90-degree model, a PortAlign. I could slide the base up
and have the rods align with the plane of the board while centering
it. http://www.cab1net.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=634


So long bits, drill one long
hole and cutting it in half (or thirds,with the extra hole can be used
in handles or other projects.)


(I have absolutely no idea what that meant.)
OK, 4th read--guessing you're talking about drilling a single board
and then ripping (with grain) down to 2 or 3 pieces? How could an
extra 1/4" (or larger) hole work for a handle?

--
Silence is more musical than any song.
-- Christina Rossetti

  #52   Report Post  
Old March 13th 18, 05:08 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: May 2011
Posts: 8,957
Default Shockproof? Really?

On Mon, 12 Mar 2018 07:25:38 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Sun, 11 Mar 2018
17:03:16 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 07:40:56 -0800, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Fri, 09 Mar 2018
08:00:48 -0800 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:


I bought the kits eons ago, then made my own centering device.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-...1014/205585492
They came with brad point bits, so they don't drift so easily. Trying
to fit 2 boards together with imprecisely drilled dowel holes is like
herding cats. Jus tain't possible.

Hence the reason I had for wanting a long auger bit. The need for
through holes on two 3" inch boards.


You can buy long brad point bits. https://is.gd/6aBAEs and other
sources.

I forgot to mention dowel centers. You drill holes in one board, put
the centers in the holes, then match up the other board to it and tap
against the points, marking the second board precisely.
https://is.gd/ldqXBh

You realize this is stretching even my old memory. Ancient wood tech,
y'know? It's all biscuits and kreg now. Unless you're rich and can
afford a Festeringtool Domino, a li'l $960 kit. Want a $1,000 shop
vac? Oops, I mean "dust extractor") They have 'em.
https://www.festoolusa.com/


I worked with some Festtool sanders, seemed to be a good tool for
the intended use (finishing up imitations stone countertops.)


That they are, but the overpricing sticks in my craw. I loved their
plunge saw setup, but it would have cost me $750. The same setup I got
from Makita was $426, plus $43 an extra 55" rail and $35 for a pair of
clamps.

--
Silence is more musical than any song.
-- Christina Rossetti
  #53   Report Post  
Old March 13th 18, 03:04 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,963
Default Shockproof? Really?

"Jim Wilkins" on Mon, 12 Mar 2018 18:25:00
-0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
"pyotr filipivich" wrote in message
.. .
Larry Jaques on Sun, 11 Mar 2018
17:03:16 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 07:40:56 -0800, pyotr filipivich
wrote:
Larry Jaques on Fri, 09 Mar
2018
08:00:48 -0800 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
I bought the kits eons ago, then made my own centering device.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-...1014/205585492
They came with brad point bits, so they don't drift so easily.
Trying
to fit 2 boards together with imprecisely drilled dowel holes is
like
herding cats. Jus tain't possible.

Hence the reason I had for wanting a long auger bit. The need for
through holes on two 3" inch boards.

You can buy long brad point bits. https://is.gd/6aBAEs and other
sources.


Will have to look into those.

I forgot to mention dowel centers. You drill holes in one board,
put
the centers in the holes, then match up the other board to it and
tap
against the points, marking the second board precisely.
https://is.gd/ldqXBh


My problem is: no means to be sure I've the axis of the second
hole aligned with that of the first. So long bits, drill one long
hole and cutting it in half (or thirds,with the extra hole can be
used
in handles or other projects.)

thanks
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."


If the hole is square to the surface a Portalign works well.
https://www.ebay.com/i/162849626344?chn=ps

A more general approach is to lay out and center punch both ends of
both holes in a straight line, then drill with the work resting on and
aligned by an upright point on the drill press table in line with the
spindle axis.


My problem is - I don't have a "drill press". I had some, but
can't find them. Argggh.

--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."
  #54   Report Post  
Old March 13th 18, 03:04 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,963
Default Shockproof? Really?

Larry Jaques on Mon, 12 Mar 2018
20:56:40 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Mon, 12 Mar 2018 07:25:38 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:
Larry Jaques on Sun, 11 Mar 2018
17:03:16 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 07:40:56 -0800, pyotr filipivich
wrote:
Larry Jaques on Fri, 09 Mar 2018
08:00:48 -0800 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
I bought the kits eons ago, then made my own centering device.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-...1014/205585492
They came with brad point bits, so they don't drift so easily. Trying
to fit 2 boards together with imprecisely drilled dowel holes is like
herding cats. Jus tain't possible.

Hence the reason I had for wanting a long auger bit. The need for
through holes on two 3" inch boards.

You can buy long brad point bits. https://is.gd/6aBAEs and other
sources.


Will have to look into those.

I forgot to mention dowel centers. You drill holes in one board, put
the centers in the holes, then match up the other board to it and tap
against the points, marking the second board precisely.
https://is.gd/ldqXBh


My problem is: no means to be sure I've the axis of the second
hole aligned with that of the first.


If you don't have a drill press, get one. Or (less ChaChing) get a
drill guide (the tool you strap onto a VSR drill, great if you have a
second drill motor) https://is.gd/PkiEoc

I have the old 90-degree model, a PortAlign. I could slide the base up
and have the rods align with the plane of the board while centering
it. http://www.cab1net.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=634


I have some kind of centering guide - but it requires a "second"
chuck. And I'm not sure where it is anyway.
"Excuses, excuses"

I do have a Zyliss clamping system - without the attachments.
Nerts.

So long bits, drill one long
hole and cutting it in half (or thirds,with the extra hole can be used
in handles or other projects.)


(I have absolutely no idea what that meant.)
OK, 4th read--guessing you're talking about drilling a single board
and then ripping (with grain) down to 2 or 3 pieces? How could an
extra 1/4" (or larger) hole work for a handle?


Some years ago, I was making a part which was a tube with a slot.
Two variants: one had the slot end to end, the other only had the slot
open at one end. I was making the first variant. Handed in the first
part run for sign off, foreman comes back and tells me "the slot is
too long." I tell him "the extra slot was for the strategic slut
reserve."

So, if I drill a hole too deep, the extra hole can be used for
putting the holes in wooden handles ala in paint brush.

(Now, who was the guy who sent a bunch of brushes out, and the
customer complained there weren't any holes in the handle to hang them
up. So the maker sent him "a box of holes". Which were returned with
the note "These are the wrong size, need the next size smaller.")
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."
  #55   Report Post  
Old March 13th 18, 03:06 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,963
Default Shockproof? Really?

Larry Jaques on Mon, 12 Mar 2018
22:08:18 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Mon, 12 Mar 2018 07:25:38 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Sun, 11 Mar 2018
17:03:16 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 07:40:56 -0800, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Fri, 09 Mar 2018
08:00:48 -0800 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

I bought the kits eons ago, then made my own centering device.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-...1014/205585492
They came with brad point bits, so they don't drift so easily. Trying
to fit 2 boards together with imprecisely drilled dowel holes is like
herding cats. Jus tain't possible.

Hence the reason I had for wanting a long auger bit. The need for
through holes on two 3" inch boards.

You can buy long brad point bits. https://is.gd/6aBAEs and other
sources.

I forgot to mention dowel centers. You drill holes in one board, put
the centers in the holes, then match up the other board to it and tap
against the points, marking the second board precisely.
https://is.gd/ldqXBh

You realize this is stretching even my old memory. Ancient wood tech,
y'know? It's all biscuits and kreg now. Unless you're rich and can
afford a Festeringtool Domino, a li'l $960 kit. Want a $1,000 shop
vac? Oops, I mean "dust extractor") They have 'em.
https://www.festoolusa.com/


I worked with some Festtool sanders, seemed to be a good tool for
the intended use (finishing up imitations stone countertops.)


That they are, but the overpricing sticks in my craw. I loved their
plunge saw setup, but it would have cost me $750. The same setup I got
from Makita was $426, plus $43 an extra 55" rail and $35 for a pair of
clamps.


Yeah. Seems to me, some folks swear by them, others swear at
them.
In my case "It was the company's money."
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."


  #56   Report Post  
Old March 13th 18, 04:20 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,243
Default Shockproof? Really?

"pyotr filipivich" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" on Mon, 12 Mar 2018 18:25:00
-0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
"pyotr filipivich" wrote in message
. ..
Larry Jaques on Sun, 11 Mar
2018
17:03:16 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 07:40:56 -0800, pyotr filipivich
wrote:
Larry Jaques on Fri, 09 Mar
2018
08:00:48 -0800 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
I bought the kits eons ago, then made my own centering device.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-...1014/205585492
They came with brad point bits, so they don't drift so easily.
Trying
to fit 2 boards together with imprecisely drilled dowel holes is
like
herding cats. Jus tain't possible.

Hence the reason I had for wanting a long auger bit. The need
for
through holes on two 3" inch boards.

You can buy long brad point bits. https://is.gd/6aBAEs and other
sources.

Will have to look into those.

I forgot to mention dowel centers. You drill holes in one board,
put
the centers in the holes, then match up the other board to it and
tap
against the points, marking the second board precisely.
https://is.gd/ldqXBh

My problem is: no means to be sure I've the axis of the second
hole aligned with that of the first. So long bits, drill one
long
hole and cutting it in half (or thirds,with the extra hole can be
used
in handles or other projects.)

thanks
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels
alone."


If the hole is square to the surface a Portalign works well.
https://www.ebay.com/i/162849626344?chn=ps

A more general approach is to lay out and center punch both ends of
both holes in a straight line, then drill with the work resting on
and
aligned by an upright point on the drill press table in line with
the
spindle axis.


My problem is - I don't have a "drill press". I had some, but
can't find them. Argggh.

--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."


Well, if you can't make your own holes you'll have to buy them.
-jsw


  #57   Report Post  
Old March 14th 18, 01:36 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: May 2011
Posts: 8,957
Default Shockproof? Really?

On Tue, 13 Mar 2018 08:04:37 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Mon, 12 Mar 2018
20:56:40 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Mon, 12 Mar 2018 07:25:38 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:
Larry Jaques on Sun, 11 Mar 2018
17:03:16 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 07:40:56 -0800, pyotr filipivich
wrote:
Larry Jaques on Fri, 09 Mar 2018
08:00:48 -0800 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
I bought the kits eons ago, then made my own centering device.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-...1014/205585492
They came with brad point bits, so they don't drift so easily. Trying
to fit 2 boards together with imprecisely drilled dowel holes is like
herding cats. Jus tain't possible.

Hence the reason I had for wanting a long auger bit. The need for
through holes on two 3" inch boards.

You can buy long brad point bits. https://is.gd/6aBAEs and other
sources.

Will have to look into those.

I forgot to mention dowel centers. You drill holes in one board, put
the centers in the holes, then match up the other board to it and tap
against the points, marking the second board precisely.
https://is.gd/ldqXBh

My problem is: no means to be sure I've the axis of the second
hole aligned with that of the first.


If you don't have a drill press, get one. Or (less ChaChing) get a
drill guide (the tool you strap onto a VSR drill, great if you have a
second drill motor) https://is.gd/PkiEoc

I have the old 90-degree model, a PortAlign. I could slide the base up
and have the rods align with the plane of the board while centering
it. http://www.cab1net.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=634


I have some kind of centering guide - but it requires a "second"
chuck. And I'm not sure where it is anyway.
"Excuses, excuses"


When I put the 1/2" chuck on the old B&D VSR, I had a spare 3/8"
chuck.


I do have a Zyliss clamping system - without the attachments.
Nerts.

So long bits, drill one long
hole and cutting it in half (or thirds,with the extra hole can be used
in handles or other projects.)


(I have absolutely no idea what that meant.)
OK, 4th read--guessing you're talking about drilling a single board
and then ripping (with grain) down to 2 or 3 pieces? How could an
extra 1/4" (or larger) hole work for a handle?


Some years ago, I was making a part which was a tube with a slot.
Two variants: one had the slot end to end, the other only had the slot
open at one end. I was making the first variant. Handed in the first
part run for sign off, foreman comes back and tells me "the slot is
too long." I tell him "the extra slot was for the strategic slut
reserve."


It sounds as if you had a pretty good relationship with the guy if you
could say that to him.


So, if I drill a hole too deep, the extra hole can be used for
putting the holes in wooden handles ala in paint brush.


Unfortunately for me, that's starting to make sense.


(Now, who was the guy who sent a bunch of brushes out, and the
customer complained there weren't any holes in the handle to hang them
up. So the maker sent him "a box of holes". Which were returned with
the note "These are the wrong size, need the next size smaller.")


g They should have turned to Tyrone, the resident hole shrinker.

--
A sound mind in a sound body is a short but full
description of a happy state in this world.
--John Locke
  #58   Report Post  
Old March 17th 18, 01:16 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,963
Default Shockproof? Really?

Larry Jaques on Wed, 14 Mar 2018
06:36:33 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

So long bits, drill one long
hole and cutting it in half (or thirds,with the extra hole can be used
in handles or other projects.)

(I have absolutely no idea what that meant.)
OK, 4th read--guessing you're talking about drilling a single board
and then ripping (with grain) down to 2 or 3 pieces? How could an
extra 1/4" (or larger) hole work for a handle?


Some years ago, I was making a part which was a tube with a slot.
Two variants: one had the slot end to end, the other only had the slot
open at one end. I was making the first variant. Handed in the first
part run for sign off, foreman comes back and tells me "the slot is
too long." I tell him "the extra slot was for the strategic slut
reserve."


It sounds as if you had a pretty good relationship with the guy if you
could say that to him.


Yeah, I did.

He's the reason I kept a set of random house keys in my toolbox.
Because after having him sign off on a bunch of stuff he said "So
where are the keys?"
Huh?
"Last time I sign so much paperwork, I got keys to a house."


tschus
pyotr

--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."
  #59   Report Post  
Old March 18th 18, 01:58 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Feb 2010
Posts: 10,202
Default Shockproof? Really?

On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 07:40:56 -0800, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Hmmm - now that's a novel idea - selling a drill with the dowels.


I bought the kits eons ago, then made my own centering device.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-...1014/205585492
They came with brad point bits, so they don't drift so easily. Trying
to fit 2 boards together with imprecisely drilled dowel holes is like
herding cats. Jus tain't possible.


Hence the reason I had for wanting a long auger bit. The need for
through holes on two 3" inch boards.


Who needs auger bits? What sizes and how long? I have a..few.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

  #60   Report Post  
Old March 18th 18, 02:28 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: May 2011
Posts: 8,957
Default Shockproof? Really?

On Fri, 16 Mar 2018 18:16:15 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Wed, 14 Mar 2018
06:36:33 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

So long bits, drill one long
hole and cutting it in half (or thirds,with the extra hole can be used
in handles or other projects.)

(I have absolutely no idea what that meant.)
OK, 4th read--guessing you're talking about drilling a single board
and then ripping (with grain) down to 2 or 3 pieces? How could an
extra 1/4" (or larger) hole work for a handle?

Some years ago, I was making a part which was a tube with a slot.
Two variants: one had the slot end to end, the other only had the slot
open at one end. I was making the first variant. Handed in the first
part run for sign off, foreman comes back and tells me "the slot is
too long." I tell him "the extra slot was for the strategic slut
reserve."


It sounds as if you had a pretty good relationship with the guy if you
could say that to him.


Yeah, I did.

He's the reason I kept a set of random house keys in my toolbox.
Because after having him sign off on a bunch of stuff he said "So
where are the keys?"
Huh?
"Last time I sign so much paperwork, I got keys to a house."


Did you surprise him with them? Har!


--
A sound mind in a sound body is a short but full
description of a happy state in this world.
--John Locke


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
REALLY REALLY heavy metal work! - With Heavy water, and Reallyheavy water. Richard[_9_] Metalworking 1 April 7th 12 06:49 PM
Tip: Really really cheap spray "equipment" C & S Woodworking 4 April 19th 09 09:14 PM
can anyone tell me what this thing is really really used for? William Noble Metalworking 29 April 9th 08 05:33 PM
THIS IS REALLY GREAT AND IT REALLY WORKS! [email protected] Metalworking 0 January 28th 05 04:39 AM
How to cut quarter round really really fast? ississauga Woodworking 20 December 3rd 04 07:38 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 03:49 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2004-2018 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"

 

Copyright © 2017