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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the
sight glass was broken. Here are some pictures: http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/ He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring. My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea? McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only? |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 6:59:32 AM UTC-4, Ignoramus31353 wrote:
My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea? McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only? I would try looking in the yellow pages for places that sell glass for windows. Not that I think they would have any sight glasses, but they are likely to know who does. Dan |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 05:59:30 -0500, Ignoramus31353
wrote: I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the sight glass was broken. Here are some pictures: http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/ He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring. My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea? McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only? Try the manufacturer of the hoist, or better yet, go to the class source,Swift Glass, Corning New york - contact 131 W. 22nd Street, Elmira, NY 14903 • Phone 607.733.7166 You want a borosilicate sight glass - give them the diameter and thickness and I'm sure they can fix you up. They carry Corning, Schott, Pilkington, Maxos, etc. |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 6:59:32 AM UTC-4, Ignoramus31353 wrote:
I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the sight glass was broken. Here are some pictures: http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/ He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring. My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea? McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only? If you can get dimensions from him, and have him send a sample so you know what the o-ring groove looks like (he should send the o-ring as well), any optician should be able to bang one out for you. That's pretty much what they do all day. |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 07:24:53 -0700, wrote:
On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 08:20:56 -0400, wrote: On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 05:59:30 -0500, Ignoramus31353 wrote: I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the sight glass was broken. Here are some pictures: http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/ He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring. My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea? McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only? Try the manufacturer of the hoist, or better yet, go to the class source,Swift Glass, Corning New york - contact 131 W. 22nd Street, Elmira, NY 14903 • Phone 607.733.7166 You want a borosilicate sight glass - give them the diameter and thickness and I'm sure they can fix you up. They carry Corning, Schott, Pilkington, Maxos, etc. I've purchased several glass rounds from McMaster. This is not my area, but it looks like something that wants some strong glass -- tempered, or, better yet, borosilicate, as Clare said. And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. That one looks like a gob of spit. g -- Ed Huntress |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 11:22:45 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote: On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 07:24:53 -0700, wrote: On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 08:20:56 -0400, wrote: On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 05:59:30 -0500, Ignoramus31353 wrote: I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the sight glass was broken. Here are some pictures: http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/ He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring. My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea? McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only? Try the manufacturer of the hoist, or better yet, go to the class source,Swift Glass, Corning New york - contact 131 W. 22nd Street, Elmira, NY 14903 • Phone 607.733.7166 You want a borosilicate sight glass - give them the diameter and thickness and I'm sure they can fix you up. They carry Corning, Schott, Pilkington, Maxos, etc. I've purchased several glass rounds from McMaster. This is not my area, but it looks like something that wants some strong glass -- tempered, or, better yet, borosilicate, as Clare said. I assumed it was an unpressurized reservoir, and the main risk of breakage is rough handling... I'd have replaced it with plexi in 1/1000 of the time this thread will take. Anyway, I just checked, McMaster has both borosilicate and quartz in small sizes. I replaced a similar sight glass years ago by hand grinding some scrap window glass on one of little stained glass shaping thingies. And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. That one looks like a gob of spit. g I was thinking Coyote "Engineering." |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 08:38:18 -0700, wrote:
On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 11:22:45 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 07:24:53 -0700, wrote: On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 08:20:56 -0400, wrote: On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 05:59:30 -0500, Ignoramus31353 wrote: I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the sight glass was broken. Here are some pictures: http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/ He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring. My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea? McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only? Try the manufacturer of the hoist, or better yet, go to the class source,Swift Glass, Corning New york - contact 131 W. 22nd Street, Elmira, NY 14903 • Phone 607.733.7166 You want a borosilicate sight glass - give them the diameter and thickness and I'm sure they can fix you up. They carry Corning, Schott, Pilkington, Maxos, etc. I've purchased several glass rounds from McMaster. This is not my area, but it looks like something that wants some strong glass -- tempered, or, better yet, borosilicate, as Clare said. I assumed it was an unpressurized reservoir, and the main risk of breakage is rough handling... I'd have replaced it with plexi in 1/1000 of the time this thread will take. Yeah, it looks like an unpressurized reservoir, but one that lives in a rough environment. Anyway, I just checked, McMaster has both borosilicate and quartz in small sizes. I replaced a similar sight glass years ago by hand grinding some scrap window glass on one of little stained glass shaping thingies. And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. That one looks like a gob of spit. g I was thinking Coyote "Engineering." Applied by an actual coyote. d8-) -- Ed Huntress |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
Ignoramus31353 wrote:
I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the sight glass was broken. Here are some pictures: http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/ He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring. My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea? McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only? These things are NOT terribly expensive, maybe about $10 now. I replaced the ones on my lathe, they were leaky and opaque. Jon |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
Ignoramus31353 fired this volley in
: I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the sight glass was broken. Here are some pictures: http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/ He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring. My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea? McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only? Ig, it's just a sight glass! If it isn't pressurized, you could make one yourself from darned-near any transparent material that would take the heat of the fluid. If you can't get one anywhere else, I'm betting the optics department of Fischer Scientific will have exactly what you want. Lloyd |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. ... g Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon. Bob |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 17:00:15 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote: On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. ... g Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon. Bob +2 on that. and the paste won't jam up a valve either. |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On 2016-04-28, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. ... g Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon. I sold that hoist, I did not make it or set it up. Teflon tape works great for me. So does the goop paste. i |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 17:00:15 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote: On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. ... g Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon. Bob Years ago I added larger diameter gas pipe in our house. I asked what sealant to use on the black iron pipe and was told to use the yellow teflon tape. EVERY joint leaked. By the time I got to testing for leaks the next day a bunch of the pipe had been framed in because we were remodeling part of the house at the same time. So I had to unscrew pipe that obstructed by all sorts of framing. GRRR. I then called the gas people and they said "Rector Seal". No leaks with that stuff. Kinda goopy but seals way better on crappy black iron pipe threads. Eric |
#16
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. ... g Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon. Bob I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low 37mBar systems. They should always be checked. |
#17
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington
wrote: On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote: On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. ... g Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon. Teflon IS PTFE. Bob I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low 37mBar systems. They should always be checked. |
#18
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington
wrote: On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote: On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. ... g Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon. Bob I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low 37mBar systems. They should always be checked. Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew every joint I made with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe leaked, and how I knew none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only a fool would assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free and not test it. Eric |
#19
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Replacement sight glass
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#20
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. ... g Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon. I hate the goo factor of the paste, but it seems way less likely to leak than the teflon tape. I've switched. |
#21
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 12:26:20 -0700, wrote:
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 13:28:12 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 09:55:07 -0700, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington wrote: On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote: On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. ... g Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon. Bob I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low 37mBar systems. They should always be checked. Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew every joint I made with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe leaked, and how I knew none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only a fool would assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free and not test it. Eric How many layers did you put on? As the size of the pipe increases, you need more layers. With 1-inch pipe, I use three layers. 3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said that would do it. I asked because the threads were so ****ty. They were very sharp and torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think the sharpness just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the goop is all I have used since and I have had zero leaks since. With brass and bronze and stainless fittings I have never had problems using tape, but the black iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The threads always look like crap. Eric Yeah, I've had some pipe like that, both water pipe and gas pipe. The water pipe is taken care of now -- I'm all-plastic except for some ancient cast iron waste pipe -- but I had some that tore the heck out of tape. On those, I used one of the pasty goos. -- Ed Huntress |
#22
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 13:28:12 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 09:55:07 -0700, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington wrote: On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote: On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. ... g Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon. Bob I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low 37mBar systems. They should always be checked. Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew every joint I made with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe leaked, and how I knew none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only a fool would assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free and not test it. Eric How many layers did you put on? As the size of the pipe increases, you need more layers. With 1-inch pipe, I use three layers. 3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said that would do it. I asked because the threads were so ****ty. They were very sharp and torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think the sharpness just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the goop is all I have used since and I have had zero leaks since. With brass and bronze and stainless fittings I have never had problems using tape, but the black iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The threads always look like crap. Eric |
#23
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 12:26:20 -0700, wrote:
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 13:28:12 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 09:55:07 -0700, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington wrote: On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote: On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. ... g Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon. Bob I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low 37mBar systems. They should always be checked. Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew every joint I made with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe leaked, and how I knew none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only a fool would assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free and not test it. Eric How many layers did you put on? As the size of the pipe increases, you need more layers. With 1-inch pipe, I use three layers. 3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said that would do it. I asked because the threads were so ****ty. They were very sharp and torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think the sharpness just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the goop is all I have used since and I have had zero leaks since. With brass and bronze and stainless fittings I have never had problems using tape, but the black iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The threads always look like crap. Eric With brass and bronze they often seal perfectly with nothing. |
#24
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
wrote in message ... On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 12:26:20 -0700, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 13:28:12 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 09:55:07 -0700, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington wrote: On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote: On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. ... g Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon. Bob I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low 37mBar systems. They should always be checked. Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew every joint I made with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe leaked, and how I knew none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only a fool would assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free and not test it. Eric How many layers did you put on? As the size of the pipe increases, you need more layers. With 1-inch pipe, I use three layers. 3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said that would do it. I asked because the threads were so ****ty. They were very sharp and torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think the sharpness just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the goop is all I have used since and I have had zero leaks since. With brass and bronze and stainless fittings I have never had problems using tape, but the black iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The threads always look like crap. Eric With brass and bronze they often seal perfectly with nothing. I've seen tape used on compression nuts! ;)} |
#25
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 20:55:34 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote: wrote in message .. . On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 12:26:20 -0700, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 13:28:12 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 09:55:07 -0700, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington wrote: On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote: On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. ... g Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon. Bob I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low 37mBar systems. They should always be checked. Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew every joint I made with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe leaked, and how I knew none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only a fool would assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free and not test it. Eric How many layers did you put on? As the size of the pipe increases, you need more layers. With 1-inch pipe, I use three layers. 3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said that would do it. I asked because the threads were so ****ty. They were very sharp and torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think the sharpness just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the goop is all I have used since and I have had zero leaks since. With brass and bronze and stainless fittings I have never had problems using tape, but the black iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The threads always look like crap. Eric With brass and bronze they often seal perfectly with nothing. I've seen tape used on compression nuts! ;)} And I've fixed leaky ones by removing the tape - - - |
#26
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 20:44:34 -0400, wrote:
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 12:26:20 -0700, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 13:28:12 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 09:55:07 -0700, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington wrote: On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote: On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. ... g Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon. Bob I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low 37mBar systems. They should always be checked. Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew every joint I made with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe leaked, and how I knew none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only a fool would assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free and not test it. Eric How many layers did you put on? As the size of the pipe increases, you need more layers. With 1-inch pipe, I use three layers. 3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said that would do it. I asked because the threads were so ****ty. They were very sharp and torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think the sharpness just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the goop is all I have used since and I have had zero leaks since. With brass and bronze and stainless fittings I have never had problems using tape, but the black iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The threads always look like crap. Eric With brass and bronze they often seal perfectly with nothing. As they should. The tape makes for easier assembly and disassembly. Especially the disassembly. Eric |
#27
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 19:34:51 -0700, wrote:
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 20:44:34 -0400, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 12:26:20 -0700, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 13:28:12 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 09:55:07 -0700, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington wrote: On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote: On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. ... g Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon. Bob I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low 37mBar systems. They should always be checked. Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew every joint I made with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe leaked, and how I knew none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only a fool would assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free and not test it. Eric How many layers did you put on? As the size of the pipe increases, you need more layers. With 1-inch pipe, I use three layers. 3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said that would do it. I asked because the threads were so ****ty. They were very sharp and torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think the sharpness just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the goop is all I have used since and I have had zero leaks since. With brass and bronze and stainless fittings I have never had problems using tape, but the black iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The threads always look like crap. Eric With brass and bronze they often seal perfectly with nothing. As they should. The tape makes for easier assembly and disassembly. Especially the disassembly. Eric They don't call them "dry-fit" or "dry seal" threads for nothing. Using teflon tape on these threads virtually always compromises the seal, whether it makes them easier to take apart or not I don't know - but it generally DOES make it necessary. |
#28
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
Why not at the local glass company. Get tempered ?! Tough stuff.
Martin On 4/28/2016 5:59 AM, Ignoramus31353 wrote: I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the sight glass was broken. Here are some pictures: http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/ He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring. My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea? McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only? |
#29
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 23:06:08 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote: Why not at the local glass company. Get tempered ?! Tough stuff. They probably can't groove premade stuff or temper cut glass. On 4/28/2016 5:59 AM, Ignoramus31353 wrote: I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the sight glass was broken. Here are some pictures: http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/ He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring. My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea? McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only? -- EAT RIGHT, KEEP FIT, DIE ANYWAY. --anon Aw, Hell. Gimme CHOCOLATE! --LJ |
#30
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 22:46:24 -0400, wrote:
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 19:34:51 -0700, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 20:44:34 -0400, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 12:26:20 -0700, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 13:28:12 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 09:55:07 -0700, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington wrote: On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote: On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. ... g Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon. Bob I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low 37mBar systems. They should always be checked. Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew every joint I made with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe leaked, and how I knew none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only a fool would assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free and not test it. Eric How many layers did you put on? As the size of the pipe increases, you need more layers. With 1-inch pipe, I use three layers. 3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said that would do it. I asked because the threads were so ****ty. They were very sharp and torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think the sharpness just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the goop is all I have used since and I have had zero leaks since. With brass and bronze and stainless fittings I have never had problems using tape, but the black iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The threads always look like crap. Eric With brass and bronze they often seal perfectly with nothing. As they should. The tape makes for easier assembly and disassembly. Especially the disassembly. Eric They don't call them "dry-fit" or "dry seal" threads for nothing. Using teflon tape on these threads virtually always compromises the seal, whether it makes them easier to take apart or not I don't know - but it generally DOES make it necessary. If a fitting is a dryseal (NPTF) then I would use no sealant. But most fittings are not NPTF. At least most of the ones I see and buy. YMMV. Eric |
#31
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Replacement sight glass
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 22:52:43 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 23:06:08 -0500, Martin Eastburn wrote: Why not at the local glass company. Get tempered ?! Tough stuff. They probably can't groove premade stuff or temper cut glass. Bigger problem is cutting tempered glass. And why would you pay $50 an hour (for possibly an hour or more) for someone to attempt to make something you can buy ready made for less than half an hour's labour??? These gkasses are readily available from several sources - several of which I have posted. If the OP has me "plonked" and therefore isn't getting the information I guess it's his loss. |
#32
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Sat, 30 Apr 2016 08:54:58 -0700, wrote:
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 22:46:24 -0400, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 19:34:51 -0700, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 20:44:34 -0400, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 12:26:20 -0700, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 13:28:12 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 09:55:07 -0700, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:23:55 +0100, David Billington wrote: On 28/04/16 22:00, Bob Engelhardt wrote: On 4/28/2016 11:22 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: And jeez, Iggy, teach someone how to do a proper job with Teflon tape. ... g Since we're giving Iggy thread advice, let me add this: I sometimes have a taped joint leak. I never have a leak on a joint where I've used "paste" sealant. With PTFE or Teflon. Bob I've seen plenty of paste sealant joints leak whether done by myself or professional gas fitters on various pressure systems including low 37mBar systems. They should always be checked. Of course they should be checked, that's how I knew every joint I made with teflon tape on that crappy black iron pipe leaked, and how I knew none leaked when I remade them with the paste. Only a fool would assemble a joint that's supposed to be leak free and not test it. Eric How many layers did you put on? As the size of the pipe increases, you need more layers. With 1-inch pipe, I use three layers. 3 layers. The guy at the store selling the pipe said that would do it. I asked because the threads were so ****ty. They were very sharp and torn, like they were cut with a dull die set. I think the sharpness just cut through the tape. Whatever the reason the goop is all I have used since and I have had zero leaks since. With brass and bronze and stainless fittings I have never had problems using tape, but the black iron pipe sold around here for gas service sucks. The threads always look like crap. Eric With brass and bronze they often seal perfectly with nothing. As they should. The tape makes for easier assembly and disassembly. Especially the disassembly. Eric They don't call them "dry-fit" or "dry seal" threads for nothing. Using teflon tape on these threads virtually always compromises the seal, whether it makes them easier to take apart or not I don't know - but it generally DOES make it necessary. If a fitting is a dryseal (NPTF) then I would use no sealant. But most fittings are not NPTF. At least most of the ones I see and buy. YMMV. Eric Virtually every brass pipe thread fitting I have ever used was NPTF. Steel and iron pipe are a different story. Using teflon tape on an oil pressure switch that needs to ground a small signal current almost guarantees a failure of the switch function. On sensors that depend on ground through the body of the sensor, same problem.. These switches and sensors have always been NPTF in my experience., along with the "weatherhead" fittings used with them. |
#33
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Replacement sight glass
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#34
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Replacement sight glass
On 30/04/16 22:44, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 30 Apr 2016 13:09:39 -0400, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 22:52:43 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 23:06:08 -0500, Martin Eastburn wrote: Why not at the local glass company. Get tempered ?! Tough stuff. They probably can't groove premade stuff or temper cut glass. Bigger problem is cutting tempered glass. And why would you pay $50 an hour (for possibly an hour or more) for someone to attempt to make something you can buy ready made for less than half an hour's labour??? When I mentioned local glass companies, I was thinking 1/4" plate glass, not tempered. For a hoist, it should work, but you're not readily going to groove it cheaply or easily. -- EAT RIGHT, KEEP FIT, DIE ANYWAY. --anon Aw, Hell. Gimme CHOCOLATE! --LJ judging from the OPs pics it wasn't tempered in the first place or it would have broken up far more. |
#35
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Replacement sight glass
On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 3:59:32 AM UTC-7, Ignoramus31353 wrote:
I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the sight glass was broken. He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring. He's probably wrong. Why would anyone bother to grind a groove in glass? Cut or grind a glass disk (or find a crafts-store and look at the little round mirror selection), use a bit of cork gasket, and you're good to go. |
#36
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Sun, 01 May 2016 00:02:49 +0100, David Billington
wrote: On 30/04/16 22:44, Larry Jaques wrote: On Sat, 30 Apr 2016 13:09:39 -0400, wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 22:52:43 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 23:06:08 -0500, Martin Eastburn wrote: Why not at the local glass company. Get tempered ?! Tough stuff. They probably can't groove premade stuff or temper cut glass. Bigger problem is cutting tempered glass. And why would you pay $50 an hour (for possibly an hour or more) for someone to attempt to make something you can buy ready made for less than half an hour's labour??? When I mentioned local glass companies, I was thinking 1/4" plate glass, not tempered. For a hoist, it should work, but you're not readily going to groove it cheaply or easily. -- EAT RIGHT, KEEP FIT, DIE ANYWAY. --anon Aw, Hell. Gimme CHOCOLATE! --LJ judging from the OPs pics it wasn't tempered in the first place or it would have broken up far more. You don't really want tempered glass. What you REALLY want is borosilicate (or Boron) glass. However, on most cases you can even get away with a lucite type plastic, at least for a couple years untill it yellows too much. But the right part is available at a reasonable cost. |
#37
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Replacement sight glass
On Sat, 30 Apr 2016 16:44:38 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote: On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 3:59:32 AM UTC-7, Ignoramus31353 wrote: I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the sight glass was broken. He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring. He's probably wrong. Why would anyone bother to grind a groove in glass? Cut or grind a glass disk (or find a crafts-store and look at the little round mirror selection), use a bit of cork gasket, and you're good to go. There are several designs - inclusing one that takes an "O" ring around the circumference of the glass, in a groove, and one that sits against an "O" ring and is held in by another "O" ring between the glass and a clamping plate. There are also glasses that are held un by a threaded ring |
#38
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Replacement sight glass
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#39
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Replacement sight glass
On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 05:59:30 -0500, Ignoramus31353
wrote: I sold a customer this hoist, and, unfortunately, upon delivery the sight glass was broken. Here are some pictures: http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Sight-Glass/ He says that it is a round glass with a little groove for a o-ring. My question is, where can I buy him a replacement glass, any idea? McMaster seems to have complete assemblies only? http://www.escopro.com/ |
#40
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Replacement sight glass
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