First off, sorry about posting something concerning metalworking.

I bought a Precise brand high speed spindle off ebay to try engraving.
Its a type S 65.

Can't find a collet for it. Ideas?

The pic is of a 1/4" collet, I need a 1/8"
http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/...e%20collet.jpg

On 3/7/2016 8:10 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:
First off, sorry about posting something concerning metalworking.

I bought a Precise brand high speed spindle off ebay to try
engraving. Its a type S 65.

Can't find a collet for it. Ideas?

The pic is of a 1/4" collet, I need a 1/8"
http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/...e%20collet.jpg


Use an insert for a 1/4" die grinder that holds a 1/8" shaft.
http://www.autotoolworld.com/Astro-P..._p_206108.html
?gclid=Cj0KEQiA6vS2BRDH8dq06YDHz_IBEiQAzNdBmRpQW1v IQO7HjyB4Aj4AbqYWKeYbVQ-GVaBiSMBQVMUaArEn8P8HAQ

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 07:10:48 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:

First off, sorry about posting something concerning metalworking.

I bought a Precise brand high speed spindle off ebay to try engraving.
Its a type S 65.

Can't find a collet for it. Ideas?

The pic is of a 1/4" collet, I need a 1/8"
http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/...e%20collet.jpg

Carl..can you give us some dimensions of that collet?

Btw..is that a CTME or a G3?

Gunner

On Mon, 7 Mar 2016 11:32:42 -0500, Tom Gardner wrote:

On 3/7/2016 8:10 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:
First off, sorry about posting something concerning metalworking.

I bought a Precise brand high speed spindle off ebay to try
engraving. Its a type S 65.

Can't find a collet for it. Ideas?

The pic is of a 1/4" collet, I need a 1/8"
http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/...e%20collet.jpg


Use an insert for a 1/4" die grinder that holds a 1/8" shaft.
http://www.autotoolworld.com/Astro-P..._p_206108.html
?gclid=Cj0KEQiA6vS2BRDH8dq06YDHz_IBEiQAzNdBmRpQW1 vIQO7HjyB4Aj4AbqYWKeYbVQ-GVaBiSMBQVMUaArEn8P8HAQ

Excellent idea! Assuming they are made well enough for milling
rather than turning a burr or stone.

Gunner

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 09:22:35 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 7 Mar 2016 11:32:42 -0500, Tom Gardner wrote:

On 3/7/2016 8:10 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:
First off, sorry about posting something concerning metalworking.

I bought a Precise brand high speed spindle off ebay to try
engraving. Its a type S 65.

Can't find a collet for it. Ideas?

The pic is of a 1/4" collet, I need a 1/8"
http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/...e%20collet.jpg


Use an insert for a 1/4" die grinder that holds a 1/8" shaft.
http://www.autotoolworld.com/Astro-P..._p_206108.html
?gclid=Cj0KEQiA6vS2BRDH8dq06YDHz_IBEiQAzNdBmRpQW 1vIQO7HjyB4Aj4AbqYWKeYbVQ-GVaBiSMBQVMUaArEn8P8HAQ

Excellent idea! Assuming they are made well enough for milling
rather than turning a burr or stone.

Gunner

When I say "made well enough"...I was talking about TIR...not quality

Gunner

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...

First off, sorry about posting something concerning metalworking.

I bought a Precise brand high speed spindle off ebay to try engraving.
Its a type S 65.

Can't find a collet for it. Ideas?

The pic is of a 1/4" collet, I need a 1/8"
http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/...e%20collet.jpg


Just go their site, Karl. If they make that collet for it you'll find it
there.

http://precisebits.com/

Tom

"tdacon" wrote in message ...

Oops, meant to also mention their collet reducers.

http://precisebits.com/

Tom

Karl Townsend wrote:

First off, sorry about posting something concerning metalworking.

I bought a Precise brand high speed spindle off ebay to try engraving.
Its a type S 65.

Can't find a collet for it. Ideas?

The pic is of a 1/4" collet, I need a 1/8"
http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/...e%20collet.jpg
Not sure that is the same collet as is used in my Precise spindle. But, it
is the same general style. Precise still supplies collets, but I have to
warn you, they are REAL expensive. When I inquired a few years ago, I think
they were about $86 each. I THINK these are proprietary, but it would be
nice if there was a 2nd source.

Jon

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
First off, sorry about posting something concerning metalworking.

I bought a Precise brand high speed spindle off ebay to try engraving.
Its a type S 65.

Can't find a collet for it. Ideas?

The pic is of a 1/4" collet, I need a 1/8"
http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/...e%20collet.jpg

When I was using Bosch Colt trim router as spindles on my Taig and MaxNC
mills I made several 1/4-1/8 adaptor bushiings with a set screw to hold 1/8
end mills. I made them on my cheesey little Harbor Freight 7x10 lathe. As
long as I did the whole thing in one setup they came out pretty good. I
made tens of thousands of dollars worth of molds using my home made brass
bushings.

K2CNC (now VeloxCNC) also used to sell a bushing for that on Ebay. I bought
one, and then made my own from then on.

Outer diameter is not critical as long as its conecntric with the inner
bore. I spotted, drilled, and then reamed with decent results. Keep drill
bits as short as possible. Use the extra stiffness of carbide bits to
reduce wander. I manually drilled and tapped the set screw. 8/32 or 6/32.
I forget which.

Here is a picture of a couple.
http://tacklemaker.info/index.php?ac...sa=view;pic=16

I did make a couple more that I tapped and put stop screws in the back to
prevent push thru when doing aggressive plunging, but for most things they
were unnecessary. I couldn't find any of those to include in the picture.
Sorry.

When I say "made well enough"...I was talking about TIR...not quality

Gunner


yep, this one probably won't get it. But I'll look for an extreme
precision one. Its a good idea

Carl..can you give us some dimensions of that collet?

Cone with top chopped off: 0.627 high, bottom OD .509, top OD .300


Btw..is that a CTME or a G3?

???


Gunner

On Mon, 7 Mar 2016 10:13:19 -0800, "tdacon"
wrote:



"tdacon" wrote in message ...

Oops, meant to also mention their collet reducers.

http://precisebits.com/

Tom

their reducers were only for .500 to XXX

didn't see the collet, thanks anyway

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 14:33:39 -0600, Jon Elson
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:

First off, sorry about posting something concerning metalworking.

I bought a Precise brand high speed spindle off ebay to try engraving.
Its a type S 65.

Can't find a collet for it. Ideas?

The pic is of a 1/4" collet, I need a 1/8"
http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/...e%20collet.jpg
Not sure that is the same collet as is used in my Precise spindle. But, it
is the same general style. Precise still supplies collets, but I have to
warn you, they are REAL expensive. When I inquired a few years ago, I think
they were about $86 each. I THINK these are proprietary, but it would be
nice if there was a 2nd source.

Jon


Did you find a USA supplier, my web foo only found Europe.

Karl

Bob, I'm looking for far more precision than lathe work.

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 15:13:32 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:


When I say "made well enough"...I was talking about TIR...not quality

Gunner


yep, this one probably won't get it. But I'll look for an extreme
precision one. Its a good idea

Buy it, try it and see how much TIR it has. Cheap enough.

Got a tenths indicator?

Gunner

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 15:15:20 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:



Carl..can you give us some dimensions of that collet?

Cone with top chopped off: 0.627 high, bottom OD .509, top OD .300


Btw..is that a CTME or a G3?

???


Gunner

The rifle photos appear along with the collet...

Gunner

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 14:33:39 -0600, Jon Elson
wrote:

Karl Townsend wrote:

First off, sorry about posting something concerning metalworking.

I bought a Precise brand high speed spindle off ebay to try engraving.
Its a type S 65.

Can't find a collet for it. Ideas?

The pic is of a 1/4" collet, I need a 1/8"
http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/...e%20collet.jpg
Not sure that is the same collet as is used in my Precise spindle. But, it
is the same general style. Precise still supplies collets, but I have to
warn you, they are REAL expensive. When I inquired a few years ago, I think
they were about $86 each. I THINK these are proprietary, but it would be
nice if there was a 2nd source.

Jon

Its not all that hard to make them. Karl is skilled enough, I would
think.

Gunner

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 15:16:13 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Mon, 7 Mar 2016 10:13:19 -0800, "tdacon"
wrote:



"tdacon" wrote in message ...

Oops, meant to also mention their collet reducers.

http://precisebits.com/

Tom

their reducers were only for .500 to XXX

didn't see the collet, thanks anyway

Make one up. Simple tube .250 in diameter with a .125 hole in the
middle and a thin slice up one side should do it. Like a roll pin.
Might even try some roll pins and see if you have one that will work.

Might not be "professional"...but if it works..what the hell...

Gunner

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 15:20:13 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:

Bob, I'm looking for far more precision than lathe work.

huh? All you need is a couple tenths TIR

Thats hardly "impossible" to do, even on a clapped out Atlas if you
are only making (1)

Gunner

yep, this one probably won't get it. But I'll look for an extreme
precision one. Its a good idea


I ordered this one
http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5161-hig...-reducers.aspx

I'm just a hack when it comes to this sort of thing, but I was pretty happy
with the results. I wasn't volunteering to make them for you. I was saying
you can make them for yourself.

Btw..is that a CTME or a G3?

???


Gunner

The rifle photos appear along with the collet...

Gunner


WHAT AN INSULT! That is an STG58 FAL. One of the best battle rifles
ever made. I don't think much of CETMEs. Now a true G3 is a fine
rifle, but they ruin the brass for reloading (fluted chamber) so I
don't have one.

The problem I had was timing. When the brarrel got tight on the
receiver it was past 12:00. I ended up making a custom shim.

I had asked on FAL files. Apparently they don't have machinists over
there. The suggestion was cut a shim by hand. UGH. Look on through;
you can see how i made it.

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 16:22:07 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:


Btw..is that a CTME or a G3?

???


Gunner

The rifle photos appear along with the collet...

Gunner


WHAT AN INSULT! That is an STG58 FAL. One of the best battle rifles
ever made. I don't think much of CETMEs. Now a true G3 is a fine
rifle, but they ruin the brass for reloading (fluted chamber) so I
don't have one.

The problem I had was timing. When the brarrel got tight on the
receiver it was past 12:00. I ended up making a custom shim.

I had asked on FAL files. Apparently they don't have machinists over
there. The suggestion was cut a shim by hand. UGH. Look on through;
you can see how i made it.

My youngest son's SCAR 17S is a fine rifle. I just can't stand the
price, or I'd get one. I've shot two deer with it, both dropped where
they were hit. My middle son just bought a Ruger SR762. Remains to
be seen how it shoots. Meanwhile, I just use the Marlin 1895 in .450
Marlin I got for Christmas one year. Nowhere near the capacity of
those other two, but if I hit something, it seems to stay hit. And
it'll shoot just fine out to 250 yards (if you know the range).

Pete Keillor

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 16:13:19 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:


yep, this one probably won't get it. But I'll look for an extreme
precision one. Its a good idea


I ordered this one
http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5161-hig...-reducers.aspx

Cool! Now when you get it...check it against a tenths indicator and
find out what they consider "high precision"

Gunner

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 16:22:07 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:


Btw..is that a CTME or a G3?

???


Gunner

The rifle photos appear along with the collet...

Gunner


WHAT AN INSULT! That is an STG58 FAL. One of the best battle rifles
ever made. I don't think much of CETMEs. Now a true G3 is a fine
rifle, but they ruin the brass for reloading (fluted chamber) so I
don't have one.

The problem I had was timing. When the brarrel got tight on the
receiver it was past 12:00. I ended up making a custom shim.

I had asked on FAL files. Apparently they don't have machinists over
there. The suggestion was cut a shim by hand. UGH. Look on through;
you can see how i made it.

(Grin)...why do you think I asked first..if it was a CTME or G3?

I own several STG58s. Unfortunately they are illegal in
California..so they live in a gun safe east of Phoenix Aridzona, in
the safekeeping of a friend of mine. Not something I wanted to bury in
the back yard. Along with several other similar equally cool toys not
on the California Approved list. I see them ever few years..fondle
them, make them speak, clean them and put them back in the vault
....sigh...snivel.....

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 16:41:20 -0600, Pete Keillor
wrote:

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 16:22:07 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:


Btw..is that a CTME or a G3?

???


Gunner

The rifle photos appear along with the collet...

Gunner


WHAT AN INSULT! That is an STG58 FAL. One of the best battle rifles
ever made. I don't think much of CETMEs. Now a true G3 is a fine
rifle, but they ruin the brass for reloading (fluted chamber) so I
don't have one.

The problem I had was timing. When the brarrel got tight on the
receiver it was past 12:00. I ended up making a custom shim.

I had asked on FAL files. Apparently they don't have machinists over
there. The suggestion was cut a shim by hand. UGH. Look on through;
you can see how i made it.

My youngest son's SCAR 17S is a fine rifle. I just can't stand the
price, or I'd get one. I've shot two deer with it, both dropped where
they were hit. My middle son just bought a Ruger SR762. Remains to
be seen how it shoots. Meanwhile, I just use the Marlin 1895 in .450
Marlin I got for Christmas one year. Nowhere near the capacity of
those other two, but if I hit something, it seems to stay hit. And
it'll shoot just fine out to 250 yards (if you know the range).

Pete Keillor

My 1895 is in 45-70. How is the 450 compared to it? Not something seen
very often out here on the Left Coast.

Gunner

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 16:22:07 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:


Btw..is that a CTME or a G3?

???


Gunner

The rifle photos appear along with the collet...

Gunner


WHAT AN INSULT! That is an STG58 FAL. One of the best battle rifles
ever made. I don't think much of CETMEs. Now a true G3 is a fine
rifle, but they ruin the brass for reloading (fluted chamber) so I
don't have one.

The problem I had was timing. When the brarrel got tight on the
receiver it was past 12:00. I ended up making a custom shim.

I had asked on FAL files. Apparently they don't have machinists over
there. The suggestion was cut a shim by hand. UGH. Look on through;
you can see how i made it.
I have never heard of a fluted chamber. Why would that be done?
Eric

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 17:10:53 -0800, wrote:

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 16:22:07 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:


Btw..is that a CTME or a G3?

???


Gunner

The rifle photos appear along with the collet...

Gunner


WHAT AN INSULT! That is an STG58 FAL. One of the best battle rifles
ever made. I don't think much of CETMEs. Now a true G3 is a fine
rifle, but they ruin the brass for reloading (fluted chamber) so I
don't have one.

The problem I had was timing. When the brarrel got tight on the
receiver it was past 12:00. I ended up making a custom shim.

I had asked on FAL files. Apparently they don't have machinists over
there. The suggestion was cut a shim by hand. UGH. Look on through;
you can see how i made it.
I have never heard of a fluted chamber. Why would that be done?
Eric

"HK roller-locked weapons use a development of Edward Stecke's patent.
The bolt head, while bore pressure is still high, exerts pressure
against both the firing pin carrier and the barrel extension locking
abutments.

The bias is toward the firing pin carrier, which is forced to the
rear, along with the bolt carrier, and allows the rollers to move
inward and the bolt to unlock from the barrel extension. All this
occurs with high residual bore pressure. This would normally cause
severe extraction problems because of the case being forced against
the chamber walls.

The flutes, very shallow grooves arrayed around the chamber and whose
depth tapers to nothing toward the chamber rear, allow propellant gas
to "float" the case free of the chamber walls and to be extracted.
Examine case rims for extractor marks and you will see that they still
do not come too willingly. The action is violent and very fast, often
throwing cases thirty feet or more. But, it also continues to function
when dirt is in the action. It is an excellent system; simple,
reliable and robust. "

http://www.weaponeer.net/forum/uploa...3_chamber2.jpg

http://www.treeclimber.com/reloads/308ribbed.jpg

Still find a few fired cases now and then in the lesser used shooting
areas around here...so I know that they are still "around" ..at least
in the Red zone of California.

Oh..and yeah..they reload just fine.

Gunner

On 3/7/2016 9:42 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:

Still find a few fired cases now and then in the lesser used shooting
areas around here...so I know that they are still "around" ..at least
in the Red zone of California.

Oh..and yeah..they reload just fine.

Gunner



How is the chamber machined? Brilliant idea!

On Tue, 8 Mar 2016 09:19:12 -0500, Tom Gardner wrote:

On 3/7/2016 9:42 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:

Still find a few fired cases now and then in the lesser used shooting
areas around here...so I know that they are still "around" ..at least
in the Red zone of California.

Oh..and yeah..they reload just fine.

Gunner



How is the chamber machined? Brilliant idea!

Im fairly sure its a 2 step process..standard chamber reamer, followed
by pressing in a multple ridged cutter..probably in one
operation..think of it as simply broaching in the gooves. They arent
very deep..so it wouldnt take much.

Or even pushing in a mandrel and then hammer forging the chamber
around the mandrel. Lots of barrels done that way..doing something
that short wouldnt be any big deal.

Gunner

---
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On 3/8/2016 4:31 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 8 Mar 2016 09:19:12 -0500, Tom Gardner wrote:

On 3/7/2016 9:42 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:

Still find a few fired cases now and then in the lesser used shooting
areas around here...so I know that they are still "around" ..at least
in the Red zone of California.

Oh..and yeah..they reload just fine.

Gunner



How is the chamber machined? Brilliant idea!

Im fairly sure its a 2 step process..standard chamber reamer, followed
by pressing in a multple ridged cutter..probably in one
operation..think of it as simply broaching in the gooves. They arent
very deep..so it wouldnt take much.

Or even pushing in a mandrel and then hammer forging the chamber
around the mandrel. Lots of barrels done that way..doing something
that short wouldnt be any big deal.

Gunner

---
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https://www.avast.com/antivirus


I just can't visualize the cutting of the neck with a broach. Maybe by
forcing a male to impress the lines... Any case, brilliant.

I just can't visualize the cutting of the neck with a broach. Maybe by
forcing a male to impress the lines... Any case, brilliant.

My son has the HK21, the beltfed version of the G3
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heckler_%26_Koch_HK21

The fluting is shiney and polished, can't have been EDMed. My guess is
its pressed in, just like rifling buttons do it.

The HK21 brass is not reloadable, IMHO. But we did buy a whole gaylord
pallet of surplus military 7.62 brass so we'll be good for a while.

Karl

On Tue, 08 Mar 2016 17:40:57 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:


I just can't visualize the cutting of the neck with a broach. Maybe by
forcing a male to impress the lines... Any case, brilliant.

My son has the HK21, the beltfed version of the G3
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heckler_%26_Koch_HK21

The fluting is shiney and polished, can't have been EDMed. My guess is
its pressed in, just like rifling buttons do it.

The HK21 brass is not reloadable, IMHO. But we did buy a whole gaylord
pallet of surplus military 7.62 brass so we'll be good for a while.

Karl

The brass is reloadable, but will generally/often require the use of
a "small base" die to iron it out well enough for reuse. Standard dies
may work..try before camming into your favorite high precision bolt
gun. Expect 2-3 fireings if loaded to standard velocities.

Gunner

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On Tue, 08 Mar 2016 17:40:57 -0600, Karl Townsend wrote:

I just can't visualize the cutting of the neck with a broach. Maybe by
forcing a male to impress the lines... Any case, brilliant.

My son has the HK21, the beltfed version of the G3
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heckler_%26_Koch_HK21

The fluting is shiney and polished, can't have been EDMed. My guess is
its pressed in, just like rifling buttons do it.

The HK21 brass is not reloadable, IMHO. But we did buy a whole gaylord
pallet of surplus military 7.62 brass so we'll be good for a while.

Well, some Gaylord pallets can disappear pretty quick.
http://truevalue.applecookies.com/images/products/co120.jpg

--
jiw

On Wed, 9 Mar 2016 00:15:00 -0000 (UTC), James Waldby
wrote:

On Tue, 08 Mar 2016 17:40:57 -0600, Karl Townsend wrote:

I just can't visualize the cutting of the neck with a broach. Maybe by
forcing a male to impress the lines... Any case, brilliant.

My son has the HK21, the beltfed version of the G3
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heckler_%26_Koch_HK21

The fluting is shiney and polished, can't have been EDMed. My guess is
its pressed in, just like rifling buttons do it.

The HK21 brass is not reloadable, IMHO. But we did buy a whole gaylord
pallet of surplus military 7.62 brass so we'll be good for a while.

Well, some Gaylord pallets can disappear pretty quick.
http://truevalue.applecookies.com/images/products/co120.jpg

Yum! Typical marketing pic. Stuff 3x the actual amount of cookies
into the picture to appeal to the greed of man, woman, and child.


My guess is that he _may_ have been talking about another Gaylord.

--
Our main business is not to see what lies dimly at
a distance but to do what lies clearly at hand.
--Thomas Carlyle

Larry Jaques wrote:

My guess is that he _may_ have been talking about another Gaylord.


The one who owned Opryland? ;-)

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 15:20:13 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:

Bob, I'm looking for far more precision than lathe work.

huh? All you need is a couple tenths TIR

Thats hardly "impossible" to do, even on a clapped out Atlas if you
are only making (1)



Speaking of Atlas, that Atlas lathe I was supposed to get a couple
years ago? The owner finally dug it out and left a message for me to
pick it up before he scrapped it. He left no phone number, or address
of where to pick it up. I asked someone who knows him, where he lives.
The answer I got was, "Down on the left on the four lane..."

"Michael A. Terrell" on Sat, 26 Mar 2016
19:03:26 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 15:20:13 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:

Bob, I'm looking for far more precision than lathe work.

huh? All you need is a couple tenths TIR

Thats hardly "impossible" to do, even on a clapped out Atlas if you
are only making (1)



Speaking of Atlas, that Atlas lathe I was supposed to get a couple
years ago? The owner finally dug it out and left a message for me to
pick it up before he scrapped it. He left no phone number, or address
of where to pick it up. I asked someone who knows him, where he lives.
The answer I got was, "Down on the left on the four lane..."

"...take a left where the school was before it burned down."
--
pyotr
Job creation and destruction are both relentless.
The small difference between the two is what we call prosperity.