As suggested long ago, a carbide tipped saw blade cuts neatly through
aluminum. But the ~40 teeth stock blade on my miter saw throws aluminum
chips everywhere. I've tried some modifications to catch the aluminum
chips but none work very well. As mentioned, I tried using a DeWalt
cutoff wheel but apparently that doesn't work for cutting aluminum.

Will a finer tooth (more teeth) carbide tipped blade tend to throw the
chips backwards the way they're supposed to go?

Other options for neatly cutting aluminum with a 10 inch miter saw?

Thanks.

John Doe prodded the keyboard

As suggested long ago, a carbide tipped saw blade cuts neatly
through aluminum. But the ~40 teeth stock blade on my miter saw
throws aluminum chips everywhere. I've tried some modifications to
catch the aluminum chips but none work very well. As mentioned, I
tried using a DeWalt cutoff wheel but apparently that doesn't work
for cutting aluminum.

Will a finer tooth (more teeth) carbide tipped blade tend to throw
the chips backwards the way they're supposed to go?

Other options for neatly cutting aluminum with a 10 inch miter saw?

Thanks.

FWIW I use a 10" inch, 140 tooth HSS blade for cutting tube and a 10"
inch, 80 tooth TCT blade for solid sections. I also use wax
lubricant to prevent blade grab in solids. People swear by WD40, but
it is no good for solids. It evaporates far too quickly to do any
good.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

"John Doe" wrote in message
...
As suggested long ago, a carbide tipped saw blade cuts neatly through
aluminum. But the ~40 teeth stock blade on my miter saw throws aluminum
chips everywhere. I've tried some modifications to catch the aluminum
chips but none work very well. As mentioned, I tried using a DeWalt
cutoff wheel but apparently that doesn't work for cutting aluminum.

Will a finer tooth (more teeth) carbide tipped blade tend to throw the
chips backwards the way they're supposed to go?

Other options for neatly cutting aluminum with a 10 inch miter saw?

Thanks.


A do not use my miter saw for this, although I can see the appeal. I found
the miter saw tended to fill up gaps and chip weld more than my table saw
for some reason. I found the table saw works ok with a 60T and lots of
cutting oil on the blade and the work piece. I never found a good way to
contain the chips. I wear a shop apron and a full face shield when cutting.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"John Doe" wrote in message
...
As suggested long ago, a carbide tipped saw blade cuts neatly
through
aluminum. But the ~40 teeth stock blade on my miter saw throws
aluminum
chips everywhere. I've tried some modifications to catch the
aluminum
chips but none work very well. As mentioned, I tried using a DeWalt
cutoff wheel but apparently that doesn't work for cutting aluminum.

Will a finer tooth (more teeth) carbide tipped blade tend to throw
the
chips backwards the way they're supposed to go?

Other options for neatly cutting aluminum with a 10 inch miter saw?

Thanks.


A do not use my miter saw for this, although I can see the appeal.
I found the miter saw tended to fill up gaps and chip weld more than
my table saw for some reason. I found the table saw works ok with a
60T and lots of cutting oil on the blade and the work piece. I
never found a good way to contain the chips. I wear a shop apron
and a full face shield when cutting.

FWIW, I use a 4" x 6" horizontal bandsaw for almost all cutting that
can fit it, wood and metal. I don't have a miter saw and haven't cut
on the table saw in years. The last wood the bandsaw cut was 6"
landscaping timbers and PT 2x6's and decking.

On Tue, 25 Nov 2014 16:59:32 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"John Doe" wrote in message
...
As suggested long ago, a carbide tipped saw blade cuts neatly
through
aluminum. But the ~40 teeth stock blade on my miter saw throws
aluminum
chips everywhere. I've tried some modifications to catch the
aluminum
chips but none work very well. As mentioned, I tried using a DeWalt
cutoff wheel but apparently that doesn't work for cutting aluminum.

Will a finer tooth (more teeth) carbide tipped blade tend to throw
the
chips backwards the way they're supposed to go?

Other options for neatly cutting aluminum with a 10 inch miter saw?

Thanks.


A do not use my miter saw for this, although I can see the appeal.
I found the miter saw tended to fill up gaps and chip weld more than
my table saw for some reason. I found the table saw works ok with a
60T and lots of cutting oil on the blade and the work piece. I
never found a good way to contain the chips. I wear a shop apron
and a full face shield when cutting.

FWIW, I use a 4" x 6" horizontal bandsaw for almost all cutting that
can fit it, wood and metal. I don't have a miter saw and haven't cut
on the table saw in years. The last wood the bandsaw cut was 6"
landscaping timbers and PT 2x6's and decking.


My wildest cut was with the bandsaw vertical and clamped to the bench,
a narrow wood blade, and an impromptu center of a longer than normal
bolt sticking up from the bottom side of my 1/2" steel workbench. We
stuck my son's 36" diameter 3" thick oak tabletop on the bolt and
slowly turned it into the bandsaw to cut off the waste from the
glue-up. Worked fine.

Pete Keillor

On 11/25/2014 2:11 PM, John Doe wrote:
As suggested long ago, a carbide tipped saw blade cuts neatly through
aluminum. But the ~40 teeth stock blade on my miter saw throws aluminum
chips everywhere. I've tried some modifications to catch the aluminum
chips but none work very well. As mentioned, I tried using a DeWalt
cutoff wheel but apparently that doesn't work for cutting aluminum.

Will a finer tooth (more teeth) carbide tipped blade tend to throw the
chips backwards the way they're supposed to go?

Other options for neatly cutting aluminum with a 10 inch miter saw?

Thanks.


Nope. All that will do is throw smaller slivers everywhere.
That's from experience.

Sorry.

John Doe fired this volley in news:m52noq
:


Other options for neatly cutting aluminum with a 10 inch miter saw?

Thanks.

The most important tools for circular saw cutting of aluminum a

1) Head-to-knee body cover including long sleeves banded shut at the
wrists,
2) Full-wrap eye protection,
3) Hearing protection,
4) a full head/neck wrap with a billed cap over that.

For preventing "throwing chips everywhere", prayer and standing to one
side of the cut line (which you should do anyway) help the most.

Lloyd

On Tue, 25 Nov 2014 20:11:07 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

As suggested long ago, a carbide tipped saw blade cuts neatly through
aluminum. But the ~40 teeth stock blade on my miter saw throws aluminum
chips everywhere. I've tried some modifications to catch the aluminum
chips but none work very well. As mentioned, I tried using a DeWalt
cutoff wheel but apparently that doesn't work for cutting aluminum.

Will a finer tooth (more teeth) carbide tipped blade tend to throw the
chips backwards the way they're supposed to go?

Other options for neatly cutting aluminum with a 10 inch miter saw?

Thanks.
The finer the teeth the better. Makes smaller chips and not as much
heat. The smaller chips don't seem to fly as far.

On Tue, 25 Nov 2014 14:27:32 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"John Doe" wrote in message
...
As suggested long ago, a carbide tipped saw blade cuts neatly through
aluminum. But the ~40 teeth stock blade on my miter saw throws aluminum
chips everywhere. I've tried some modifications to catch the aluminum
chips but none work very well. As mentioned, I tried using a DeWalt
cutoff wheel but apparently that doesn't work for cutting aluminum.

Will a finer tooth (more teeth) carbide tipped blade tend to throw the
chips backwards the way they're supposed to go?

Other options for neatly cutting aluminum with a 10 inch miter saw?

Thanks.


A do not use my miter saw for this, although I can see the appeal. I found
the miter saw tended to fill up gaps and chip weld more than my table saw
for some reason. I found the table saw works ok with a 60T and lots of
cutting oil on the blade and the work piece. I never found a good way to
contain the chips. I wear a shop apron and a full face shield when cutting.


+1 on that!!! those little buggers are hot and sharp!

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 25 Nov 2014 20:11:07 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

As suggested long ago, a carbide tipped saw blade cuts neatly
through
aluminum. But the ~40 teeth stock blade on my miter saw throws
aluminum
chips everywhere. I've tried some modifications to catch the
aluminum
chips but none work very well. As mentioned, I tried using a DeWalt
cutoff wheel but apparently that doesn't work for cutting aluminum.

Will a finer tooth (more teeth) carbide tipped blade tend to throw
the
chips backwards the way they're supposed to go?

Other options for neatly cutting aluminum with a 10 inch miter saw?

Thanks.
The finer the teeth the better. Makes smaller chips and not as much
heat. The smaller chips don't seem to fly as far.

I might try a smaller diameter non-carbide plywood blade.

fired this volley in
:

The smaller chips don't seem to fly as far.

There are well-documented physical reasons for that, Clare.

Using a more conservative feed rate will also make smaller chips.
I use 60-tooth, because that's what I have. I have used 40-tooth blades
just fine, too.

BOTH require full-body protection from the hot chips.

G
Lloyd

"Jim Wilkins" fired this volley in news:m53b4h$eae$1
@dont-email.me:

I might try a smaller diameter non-carbide plywood blade.

You might dull and burn it in just a few cuts, too.

Lloyd

fired this volley in
:

full face shield

Yep... I didn't say that in my last post, just listing 'eye protection',
but I wear a grinding sheild with a nape cape. The billed cap is to
prevent chips sneaking in over the top of the shield.

LLoyd

On 11/25/2014 8:07 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Jim fired this volley in news:m53b4h$eae$1
@dont-email.me:

I might try a smaller diameter non-carbide plywood blade.

You might dull and burn it in just a few cuts, too.

Lloyd

I'd have to agree.
You really need the carbide tips.

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com fired this volley
in . 4.170:

"Jim Wilkins" fired this volley in
news:m53b4h$eae$1 @dont-email.me:

I might try a smaller diameter non-carbide plywood blade.

You might dull and burn it in just a few cuts, too.

Lloyd

PS... that's from experience. I had a boss once who cut screen-room
extrusions on a radial arm saw. He was too cheap to buy a "good blade",
but ran through many, many plywood blades, even using paraffin as the
cutting lubricant.

The cuts were OK until the blade started to dull... then you got heat-
induced 'wandering' and chip re-welding.


Lloyd

On Tue, 25 Nov 2014 20:13:53 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com fired this volley
in . 4.170:

"Jim Wilkins" fired this volley in
news:m53b4h$eae$1 @dont-email.me:

I might try a smaller diameter non-carbide plywood blade.

You might dull and burn it in just a few cuts, too.

Lloyd

PS... that's from experience. I had a boss once who cut screen-room
extrusions on a radial arm saw. He was too cheap to buy a "good blade",
but ran through many, many plywood blades, even using paraffin as the
cutting lubricant.

The cuts were OK until the blade started to dull... then you got heat-
induced 'wandering' and chip re-welding.


Lloyd
I found out the hard way not to use a good "skil" saw on aluminum. My
Rockwell ingested chips that took the insulation off the armature.
Cost me more for a replacement armature than a cheap saw - but I fixed
it anyway. I will outlast 2 or 2 cheap saws (likely has already - it's
about 15? years since I replaced the armature)

On Tue, 25 Nov 2014 20:07:47 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Jim Wilkins" fired this volley in news:m53b4h$eae$1
:

I might try a smaller diameter non-carbide plywood blade.

You might dull and burn it in just a few cuts, too.

Lloyd

ayup...does indeed do that. Some folks have had good luck running the
blade backwards


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

Baron prodded the keyboard

John Doe prodded the keyboard

Will a finer tooth (more teeth) carbide tipped blade tend to throw
the chips backwards the way they're supposed to go?

Other options for neatly cutting aluminum with a 10 inch miter saw?

Thanks.

FWIW I use a 10" inch, 140 tooth HSS blade for cutting tube and a
10" inch, 80 tooth TCT blade for solid sections. I also use wax
lubricant to prevent blade grab in solids. People swear by WD40,
but it is no good for solids. It evaporates far too quickly to do
any good.

I should also have said the blade speed is important too ! My cut off
saw runs at 2800 rpm. Most universal motor machines run far too
fast.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

"Baron" wrote in message
...
Baron prodded the keyboard

John Doe prodded the keyboard

Will a finer tooth (more teeth) carbide tipped blade tend to throw
the chips backwards the way they're supposed to go?

Other options for neatly cutting aluminum with a 10 inch miter
saw?

Thanks.

FWIW I use a 10" inch, 140 tooth HSS blade for cutting tube and a
10" inch, 80 tooth TCT blade for solid sections. I also use wax
lubricant to prevent blade grab in solids. People swear by WD40,
but it is no good for solids. It evaporates far too quickly to do
any good.

I should also have said the blade speed is important too ! My cut
off
saw runs at 2800 rpm. Most universal motor machines run far too
fast.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

The table saw I used to cut aluminum on runs at about motor speed,
~1800RPM.
-jsw

On Tue, 25 Nov 2014 18:09:47 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

John Doe fired this volley in news:m52noq
:


Other options for neatly cutting aluminum with a 10 inch miter saw?

Thanks.

The most important tools for circular saw cutting of aluminum a

1) Head-to-knee body cover including long sleeves banded shut at the
wrists,
2) Full-wrap eye protection,
3) Hearing protection,
4) a full head/neck wrap with a billed cap over that.

For preventing "throwing chips everywhere", prayer and standing to one
side of the cut line (which you should do anyway) help the most.

Lloyd

That's exactly my experience (Ryobi BT10- woodworkers will sneer- and
80T blade). Makes a horrible mess and a hell of a racket no matter
what you do. Don't leave any electronics with ventilation slots
anywhere nearby...

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Baron" wrote in message
...
Baron prodded the keyboard

John Doe prodded the keyboard

Will a finer tooth (more teeth) carbide tipped blade tend to throw
the chips backwards the way they're supposed to go?

Other options for neatly cutting aluminum with a 10 inch miter
saw?

Thanks.

FWIW I use a 10" inch, 140 tooth HSS blade for cutting tube and a
10" inch, 80 tooth TCT blade for solid sections. I also use wax
lubricant to prevent blade grab in solids. People swear by WD40,
but it is no good for solids. It evaporates far too quickly to do
any good.

I should also have said the blade speed is important too ! My cut
off
saw runs at 2800 rpm. Most universal motor machines run far too
fast.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

The table saw I used to cut aluminum on runs at about motor speed,
~1800RPM.
-jsw

Take another look Jim . Most table saw motors run at 3450 .

--
Snag

Spehro Pefhany wrote in
:

On Tue, 25 Nov 2014 18:09:47 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

John Doe fired this volley in news:m52noq
:


Other options for neatly cutting aluminum with a 10 inch miter saw?

Thanks.

The most important tools for circular saw cutting of aluminum a

1) Head-to-knee body cover including long sleeves banded shut at the
wrists,
2) Full-wrap eye protection,
3) Hearing protection,
4) a full head/neck wrap with a billed cap over that.

For preventing "throwing chips everywhere", prayer and standing to one
side of the cut line (which you should do anyway) help the most.

Lloyd

That's exactly my experience (Ryobi BT10- woodworkers will sneer- and
80T blade). Makes a horrible mess and a hell of a racket no matter
what you do. Don't leave any electronics with ventilation slots
anywhere nearby...

Like a miter saw?









Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany

John Doe fired this volley in news:m581uv$fbr
:

Like a miter saw?

Yep... like a miter saw. I usually use my table saw, which has a TEFC
motor, but when I use my miter saw, I "bag" the motor, and just make sure
not to spend much time running it. I mean mere seconds, not minutes.

Plan your cuts, then: on; cut deliberately and quickly; off; done. (and
don't forget to take the condom off after you're done.

Lloyd

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Baron" wrote in message
...
Baron prodded the keyboard

John Doe prodded the keyboard

Will a finer tooth (more teeth) carbide tipped blade tend to
throw
the chips backwards the way they're supposed to go?

Other options for neatly cutting aluminum with a 10 inch miter
saw?

Thanks.

FWIW I use a 10" inch, 140 tooth HSS blade for cutting tube and a
10" inch, 80 tooth TCT blade for solid sections. I also use wax
lubricant to prevent blade grab in solids. People swear by WD40,
but it is no good for solids. It evaporates far too quickly to
do
any good.

I should also have said the blade speed is important too ! My cut
off
saw runs at 2800 rpm. Most universal motor machines run far too
fast.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

The table saw I used to cut aluminum on runs at about motor speed,
~1800RPM.
-jsw

Take another look Jim . Most table saw motors run at 3450 .

--
Snag

This saw is a homebrew kluge meant to saw corrugated metal roofing
freehand with an abrasive disk. The blade is slow and the belt
tensioner is weak because I expect the disk to jam.
-jsw

I have another idea to corral and catch the chips, will see.



my miter saw throws aluminum chips everywhere. I've tried some
modifications to catch the aluminum chips




--

Thanks to the replies.

Spent my allowance on an Irwin Marples 80 tooth blade. Also going to try
reducing the speed. And will try another method unmentionable (so not to
stir up more trouble).

Before... I used the stock cheap 24 tooth blade to cut my Razor Lux A5
scooter in half. Clamped it to the table, cut very slowly, and it did a
good job. I just can't see allowing aluminum chip snowfall to prevent
the use of such an otherwise great tool for cutting aluminum. Must
figure out some way to prevent the chips from going everywhere.




--

Thanks to the replies.

On Wednesday, December 3, 2014 9:48:38 PM UTC-5, John Doe wrote:
Spent my allowance on an Irwin Marples 80 tooth blade. Also going to try
reducing the speed. And will try another method unmentionable (so not to
stir up more trouble).

Before... I used the stock cheap 24 tooth blade to cut my Razor Lux A5
scooter in half. Clamped it to the table, cut very slowly, and it did a
good job. I just can't see allowing aluminum chip snowfall to prevent
the use of such an otherwise great tool for cutting aluminum. Must
figure out some way to prevent the chips from going everywhere.




--

Thanks to the replies.

Would that unmentionable technique involve running the blade backwards? I have read that it's supposed to be a good idea, but I've never tried it. It seems like something that's just begging to rip the carbide teeth off the blade. But what do I know?

rangerssuck wrote:

John Doe wrote:

[Bought] an Irwin Marples 80 tooth blade. Also going to try reducing
the speed. And will try another method unmentionable (so not to stir
up more trouble).

Before... I used the stock cheap 24 tooth blade to cut my Razor Lux
A5 scooter in half. Clamped it to the table, cut very slowly, and it
did a good job. I just can't see allowing aluminum chip snowfall to
prevent the use of such an otherwise great tool for cutting aluminum.
Must figure out some way to prevent the chips from going everywhere.

Would that unmentionable technique involve running the blade
backwards?

No. Besides undoubtably causing a ruckus, it's not applicable to most
people's circumstances. Another reason it's not worth mentioning.

I have read that it's supposed to be a good idea, but I've never tried
it. It seems like something that's just begging to rip the carbide
teeth off the blade. But what do I know?

I seem to recall as it was mentioned in this thread that was for
non-carbide teeth?

John Doe prodded the keyboard

rangerssuck wrote:

John Doe wrote:

[Bought] an Irwin Marples 80 tooth blade. Also going to try
[reducing the speed. And will try another method unmentionable (so
not to stir up more trouble).

Before... I used the stock cheap 24 tooth blade to cut my Razor
Lux A5 scooter in half. Clamped it to the table, cut very slowly,
and it did a good job. I just can't see allowing aluminum chip
snowfall to prevent the use of such an otherwise great tool for
cutting aluminum. Must figure out some way to prevent the chips
from going everywhere.

Would that unmentionable technique involve running the blade
backwards?

No. Besides undoubtably causing a ruckus, it's not applicable to
most people's circumstances. Another reason it's not worth
mentioning.

I have read that it's supposed to be a good idea, but I've never
tried it. It seems like something that's just begging to rip the
carbide teeth off the blade. But what do I know?

I seem to recall as it was mentioned in this thread that was for
non-carbide teeth?

Running the blade, CTC or HSS, backwards works only for thin
sections ! Use brushes if you want to reduce the snow shower.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.