Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default product endorsement for leaky basements

I have a 35 year old house with my shop in the basement
(metalworking content) and it has developed a leak at
a crack in the wall. I looked around online and
found a kit that looked like it might work.
The outfit is LCR - liquid concrete repair.

The system is you glue up the crack with pretty ordinary
epoxy stuff, but include injection ports every foot
or so. Then, after that epoxy hardens, you mix up
a tube of much thinner epoxy and inject it into the
ports with a caulking gun. I did a bad job on the first
part, there were several leaks where I didn't get all
the branches of the crack sealed, or had little leaks
around the injection ports. So, when I injected the
stuff into the crack, it started leaking out.

Also, the crack is VERY narrow at the bottom, where the
water was leaking in, and I used huge pressure on the
caulking gun but couldn't get much of the sealant to
flow in. It flowed easily near the top of the crack.

So, I was a little worried I hadn't gotten the sealing
stuff deep enough into the crack. But, we had some serious
rains last week, and not a drop came through! This isn't
an absolute guarantee that the leak is fixed, as it could
be very unpredictable which rain would cause a leak.
But, it is looking quite likely it is fixed.

The kit cost something like $78, you get 2 huge pots
of the surface sealing epoxy, and two tubes of the
liquid sealer. I only used one tube.

Just thought if somebody else has the same problem, they
might try this stuff.


For the little leaks in the concrete form tie rods which
eventually rust out and leak, I made up my own system.
First, you get a 1/2" diamond core drill at Lowe's, they
are about $18. Drill around the leaky rod about 3/4"
deep. Then, try to either bash the rod deeper into the wall,
or if that fails, torch it off. I used an Oxy-MAPP
torch, heated it white hot and then quickly grabbed it with
pliers and twisted. Sometimes it took several heating/
twisting cycles to get the exposed rod to break off.
Then, when the wall cools, clean the hole of all
loose concrete and fill it with JB weld. I bet you could
also use PC-7, which is a lot cheaper. So far, this
system is also working.

Jon
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Default product endorsement for leaky basements

On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 20:28:55 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

I have a 35 year old house with my shop in the basement
(metalworking content) and it has developed a leak at
a crack in the wall. I looked around online and
found a kit that looked like it might work.
The outfit is LCR - liquid concrete repair.

....

I'm a basement shop guy too. Its a walk out so I can drag in all sorts
of projects. Got one huge crack that really leaks. i'll give this
stuff a try.

Karl

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Default product endorsement for leaky basements

Karl Townsend wrote:

On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 20:28:55 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

I have a 35 year old house with my shop in the basement
(metalworking content) and it has developed a leak at
a crack in the wall. I looked around online and
found a kit that looked like it might work.
The outfit is LCR - liquid concrete repair.

...

I'm a basement shop guy too. Its a walk out so I can drag in all sorts
of projects. Got one huge crack that really leaks. i'll give this
stuff a try.

I hope it works as well as mine seems to have done. One comment,
if the crack is really narrow, hair thin, at the bottom, I probably
should have used a small masonry bit to drill into the crack just
near the very bottom (where the leak is, of course) to allow the
sealer to flow deeper into the crack. Then, you'd put the injection
port right over the drilled hole. But, anyway, we had another big
thunderstorm this morning, and it is still holding.

I'm a HAPPY camper! I HATE leaky basements, with all the stuff
I have there.

Jon
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Default product endorsement for leaky basements

On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 05:05:46 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 20:28:55 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

I have a 35 year old house with my shop in the basement
(metalworking content) and it has developed a leak at
a crack in the wall. I looked around online and
found a kit that looked like it might work.
The outfit is LCR - liquid concrete repair.

...

I'm a basement shop guy too. Its a walk out so I can drag in all sorts
of projects. Got one huge crack that really leaks. i'll give this
stuff a try.

Karl

The process that seams to work best up here is one where they drill
into the crack at an angle, so the bore catches the crack about
mid-wall. They inject a resin - I think it is a poly-urethane - not
sure - and it fills the crack from the center out, both ways with an
expanding and somewhat flexible material that REALLY sticks to the
concrete.
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Default product endorsement for leaky basements

A house is not a submarine. If it is sitting in a wet area with
improper drainage, water from outside will find its way in.

I had a leaky basement too. That house was next to a river. Sold it
and got one on a hill, with proper drainage. No more leaky basement.

i


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Default product endorsement for leaky basements

Ignoramus16101 wrote:

A house is not a submarine. If it is sitting in a wet area with
improper drainage, water from outside will find its way in.

I had a leaky basement too. That house was next to a river. Sold it
and got one on a hill, with proper drainage. No more leaky basement.

i

This house had been tight, but during really heavy rains (like
6" in one-two days) we would get a puddle from this crack. Otherwise
it was quite watertight. So, I wanted to see if I could fix it, but
didn't want to spend big bucks for some contractor to come in and
do it. It seems the $76 or so kit has done the job!

The house is somewhat U shaped, with the U facing toward the uphill
grade. That probably is a bit of a mistake.

Jon
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Default product endorsement for leaky basements

Ignoramus16101 wrote:
A house is not a submarine. If it is sitting in a wet area with
improper drainage, water from outside will find its way in.

I had a leaky basement too. That house was next to a river. Sold it
and got one on a hill, with proper drainage. No more leaky basement.


you sort of have a point here about floods not really being too
surprising.

Here in Chicago if you're the lowest point on the block and your drains
are clogged, you're going to flood and that's that.

People still get shocked by this when it happens over, and over, and over
again.

Any place with a sump pit is also a warning the place has and will flood
again.

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Default product endorsement for leaky basements

On 2014-04-14, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Ignoramus16101 wrote:
A house is not a submarine. If it is sitting in a wet area with
improper drainage, water from outside will find its way in.

I had a leaky basement too. That house was next to a river. Sold it
and got one on a hill, with proper drainage. No more leaky basement.


you sort of have a point here about floods not really being too
surprising.

Here in Chicago if you're the lowest point on the block and your drains
are clogged, you're going to flood and that's that.

People still get shocked by this when it happens over, and over, and over
again.

Any place with a sump pit is also a warning the place has and will flood
again.


I have a sump pit in my house, and it never floods. The sump does work
during rains.

i
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Default product endorsement for leaky basements

On 4/13/2014 13:05, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 20:28:55 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

I have a 35 year old house with my shop in the basement
(metalworking content) and it has developed a leak at
a crack in the wall. I looked around online and
found a kit that looked like it might work.
The outfit is LCR - liquid concrete repair.

...

I'm a basement shop guy too. Its a walk out so I can drag in all sorts
of projects. Got one huge crack that really leaks. i'll give this
stuff a try.


The other way to solve the issue is to make a "dam" of
silicone sealant around the room near the walls.. Something like
5cm from the wall. Then either leave the water there and
let evaporate (if small amounts) or use the same silicone
to couple of thin plastic tube from dam to drain.. Use
same colour silicone as floor (say, light gray) and the dam
is practically invisible.

Works well!



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Default track and train building on Lone Ranger movie set



Take a look. Pretty interesting.


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A railroad built from the ground up, including rolling stock,


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The train set was built in NM.




This is worth watching!!!!!


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