I have a 35 year old house with my shop in the basement
(metalworking content) and it has developed a leak at
a crack in the wall. I looked around online and
found a kit that looked like it might work.
The outfit is LCR - liquid concrete repair.

The system is you glue up the crack with pretty ordinary
epoxy stuff, but include injection ports every foot
or so. Then, after that epoxy hardens, you mix up
a tube of much thinner epoxy and inject it into the
ports with a caulking gun. I did a bad job on the first
part, there were several leaks where I didn't get all
the branches of the crack sealed, or had little leaks
around the injection ports. So, when I injected the
stuff into the crack, it started leaking out.

Also, the crack is VERY narrow at the bottom, where the
water was leaking in, and I used huge pressure on the
caulking gun but couldn't get much of the sealant to
flow in. It flowed easily near the top of the crack.

So, I was a little worried I hadn't gotten the sealing
stuff deep enough into the crack. But, we had some serious
rains last week, and not a drop came through! This isn't
an absolute guarantee that the leak is fixed, as it could
be very unpredictable which rain would cause a leak.
But, it is looking quite likely it is fixed.

The kit cost something like $78, you get 2 huge pots
of the surface sealing epoxy, and two tubes of the
liquid sealer. I only used one tube.

Just thought if somebody else has the same problem, they
might try this stuff.


For the little leaks in the concrete form tie rods which
eventually rust out and leak, I made up my own system.
First, you get a 1/2" diamond core drill at Lowe's, they
are about $18. Drill around the leaky rod about 3/4"
deep. Then, try to either bash the rod deeper into the wall,
or if that fails, torch it off. I used an Oxy-MAPP
torch, heated it white hot and then quickly grabbed it with
pliers and twisted. Sometimes it took several heating/
twisting cycles to get the exposed rod to break off.
Then, when the wall cools, clean the hole of all
loose concrete and fill it with JB weld. I bet you could
also use PC-7, which is a lot cheaper. So far, this
system is also working.

Jon