Ok , so I've got a few cough cough end mills with chipped or dull ends .
And I have this idea to use a collet block and a tapered wedge in the vise
to touch them up on the mill . Actually it'll take 2 wedges ... anyone ever
seen sch a set-up ? Suggestions for an easier way ? short of buying a
surface or tool grinder , please
--
Snag

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
news
Ok , so I've got a few cough cough end mills with chipped or dull
ends . And I have this idea to use a collet block and a tapered
wedge in the vise to touch them up on the mill . Actually it'll take
2 wedges ... anyone ever seen sch a set-up ? Suggestions for an
easier way ? short of buying a surface or tool grinder , please
--
Snag

These set the angles:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/End-...-Fixture/G9887

jsw

On Fri, 4 Apr 2014 16:49:22 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:



Ok , so I've got a few cough cough end mills with chipped or dull ends .
And I have this idea to use a collet block and a tapered wedge in the vise
to touch them up on the mill . Actually it'll take 2 wedges ... anyone ever
seen sch a set-up ? Suggestions for an easier way ? short of buying a
surface or tool grinder , please
=================
for some ideas see
http://www.grizzly.com/products/End-...-Fixture/G9887
http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/...t=15&mobile=on

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PMAKA=287-6520
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT
(with a sine bar and right angle plate)
also
https://pico-systems.com/sharpen.html


also make an adapter to mount an air or electric die grinder
to your mill, possibly using the quill if you have a good
spindle brake.
http://www.walmart.com/search/search...er+rotary+tool
(Nose cap has a strange thread)
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...its-69664.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-69658.html

FWIW -- Although use of diamond on steel is discouraged, I
find diamond grinding pins work well on carbide and cobalt
HSS for touchup.

I also find this combo works very well for grinding chip
breakers and hook in lathe and shaper tools. For slots see
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...scs-69657.html


--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"

F. George McDuffee wrote:
On Fri, 4 Apr 2014 16:49:22 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:



Ok , so I've got a few cough cough end mills with chipped or dull
ends . And I have this idea to use a collet block and a tapered
wedge in the vise to touch them up on the mill . Actually it'll take
2 wedges ... anyone ever seen sch a set-up ? Suggestions for an
easier way ? short of buying a surface or tool grinder , please
=================
for some ideas see
http://www.grizzly.com/products/End-...-Fixture/G9887
http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/...t=15&mobile=on

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PMAKA=287-6520
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT
(with a sine bar and right angle plate)
also
https://pico-systems.com/sharpen.html


also make an adapter to mount an air or electric die grinder
to your mill, possibly using the quill if you have a good
spindle brake.
http://www.walmart.com/search/search...er+rotary+tool
(Nose cap has a strange thread)
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...its-69664.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-69658.html

FWIW -- Although use of diamond on steel is discouraged, I
find diamond grinding pins work well on carbide and cobalt
HSS for touchup.

I also find this combo works very well for grinding chip
breakers and hook in lathe and shaper tools. For slots see
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...scs-69657.html

PAYDIRT ! Between you and Jim I now have enough info to build a fixture to
set the angles and index the EM's . Just made a boring head , also put the
finishing touches on a ball turner . I figger to make as much stuff as I can
to be self-sufficient as I can get ... and the idea to use a die grinder was
excellent , but maybe a router with a speed control ? I can visualize a
small surface grinder type setup based on a Porter-Cable laminate trimmer .
--
Snag

On 2014-04-04, Terry Coombs wrote:


Ok , so I've got a few cough cough end mills with chipped or dull ends .
And I have this idea to use a collet block and a tapered wedge in the vise
to touch them up on the mill . Actually it'll take 2 wedges ... anyone ever
seen sch a set-up ?

Well ... sorta! There is something made for use in a surface
grinder with a mag chuck, but it should work in a milling vise too. It
has two angles on the bottom, and a rotating holder for an R8 collet (or
is it 5C?) Anyway -- on the bottom is a detent so you can rotate the
endmill in steps sufficient for 6-flute and 5-flute end mills, as well
as 3 and 2 flute which are a subset of the 6-flute.

Not very expensive. I've got one which is just too tall for my
tiny benchtop surface grinder -- except perhaps with little 1/4" shank
mills or smaller.

Suggestions for an easier way ? short of buying a
surface or tool grinder , please

If you are going to be grinding on your mill -- be sure to
protect all the ways thoroughly. The grinding swarf is a killer for
unprotected ways.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
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"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

If you are going to be grinding on your mill -- be sure to
protect all the ways thoroughly. The grinding swarf is a killer for
unprotected ways.


Most mills of any consequence have protected ways as part of their design.

It's hardly the same as "grinding on a lathe".

Lloyd

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

If you are going to be grinding on your mill -- be sure to
protect all the ways thoroughly. The grinding swarf is a killer for
unprotected ways.


Most mills of any consequence have protected ways as part of their
design.

It's hardly the same as "grinding on a lathe".

Lloyd

You both have good points ... my mill does have accordion covers over the
ways , but I'd still cover the table and stuff with something just to be
sure . After looking as several different units , it looks fairly simple to
build a device to hold in the vise that will set the 2 angles and have
indexing . I'm sure glad I bought a RT with indexing plates when I had some
money !
--
Snag

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
F. George McDuffee wrote:

PAYDIRT ! Between you and Jim I now have enough info to build a
fixture to set the angles and index the EM's . Just made a boring
head , also put the finishing touches on a ball turner . I figger to
make as much stuff as I can to be self-sufficient as I can get ...
and the idea to use a die grinder was excellent , but maybe a router
with a speed control ? I can visualize a small surface grinder type
setup based on a Porter-Cable laminate trimmer .
--
Snag

When I salvage a chipped end mill I first rough it to shape on a bench
grinder, first squaring the end and then relieving behind the cutting
edges. I can hand-sharpen a two-flute well enough to cut, they are
easier than drill bits, but haven't tried to make the two edges cut
evenly since I can do the finishing passes much more accurately,
though slowly, on my surface grinder.

The workpiece on a surface grinder is literally caught between a rock
and a hard place, and if it shifts slightly and jams the wheel can
break. I don't grind more than 0.002" per pass and usually take
0.0005" or less. That makes the job very slow without roughing it
first on a more forgiving bench grinder. Also the surface grinder
heats sharp edges blue in an instant unless you take very light cuts.
This is more of an issue on planer blades than HSS endmills.

If the spindle you use has any end play it will round off the edge as
the stone passes off it and drops.
jsw

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...

You both have good points ... my mill does have accordion covers
over the ways , but I'd still cover the table and stuff with
something just to be sure . After looking as several different units
, it looks fairly simple to build a device to hold in the vise that
will set the 2 angles and have indexing . I'm sure glad I bought a
RT with indexing plates when I had some money !
--
Snag

On the one I have the round recess for the collet holder is tilted in
the rectangular base to determine the angles, so it looks like the
base could be clamped in a milling vise or directly onto the table.
When I grind a four-flute endmill I rotate the fixture somewhat so the
wheel pass over the down-slope flute and clears the upslope one while
grinding to the center. The position of the flute relative to the base
sets the cutting edge angles, the base doesn't have to be parallel to
the table.

It may not be evident that the cutting edges dish very slightly toward
the center. Increasing the angle a little doesn't seem a problem,
while you don't want the center protruding and dragging.
jsw

On Fri, 4 Apr 2014 20:31:19 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:
snip
and the idea to use a die grinder was
excellent , but maybe a router with a speed control
snip
Unless you have a router, get a die grinder or rotary tool
with variable speed as the "nose" is smaller and easier to
get into position.
http://www.target.com/p/black-decker...l/-/A-13796336
or the one from Walmart that has three speeds.

Let the group know how you make out, and post some pictures
to the dropbox http://www.mwdropbox.com/



--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"

On 5 Apr 2014 03:06:14 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

snip
If you are going to be grinding on your mill -- be sure to
protect all the ways thoroughly. The grinding swarf is a killer for
unprotected ways.
/snip

Indeed, and if you have a shopvac it can be worthwhile to
rig a holder for the vacuum hose/nozzle as close as possible
to the grinding wheel.


--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"

On 2014-04-05, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

If you are going to be grinding on your mill -- be sure to
protect all the ways thoroughly. The grinding swarf is a killer for
unprotected ways.


Most mills of any consequence have protected ways as part of their design.

Well ... my BOSS-3 Bridgeport CNC mill has the Y-axis ways
exposed in front of and behind the saddle -- as well as the upper half
of the vertical ways that the knee travels on.

Not sure whether or not you count a Bridgeport as "of any
consequence". :-)

There are various kinds of rubber flaps set up to cover the ways
-- but I think something offering a bit more complete covering would be
a good idea with grinding swarf floating around in the air, and sticking
to the waylube on the ways. Instant lapping compound. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
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--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:


Well ... my BOSS-3 Bridgeport CNC mill has the Y-axis ways
exposed in front of and behind the saddle -- as well as the upper half
of the vertical ways that the knee travels on.

Not sure whether or not you count a Bridgeport as "of any
consequence". :-)

Nope, it's a good mill, being run by someone not willing to install the
way covers and aprons it came with when new -- and without which it is
never intended to be run.

LLoyd

On 2014-04-06, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:


Well ... my BOSS-3 Bridgeport CNC mill has the Y-axis ways
exposed in front of and behind the saddle -- as well as the upper half
of the vertical ways that the knee travels on.

Not sure whether or not you count a Bridgeport as "of any
consequence". :-)

Nope, it's a good mill, being run by someone not willing to install the
way covers and aprons it came with when new -- and without which it is
never intended to be run.

You mean the ones which It did not have when I received it?

There was actually one rubber "apron" -- covering the top part of the
vertical knee ways, and the part of the Y-axis ways which was between
the saddle and the vertical ways. Nothing for the Y-axis out towards
the user.

It actually is not being run at present -- but being converted to
servo-based CNC from the ancient stepper based CNC it came with.

And I've seen a lot of other Bridgeports which did not have any
form of way covers.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
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--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

And I've seen a lot of other Bridgeports which did not have any
form of way covers.

Again, used by folks who never bothered to restore the original
equipment.

Just because you _received_ it without its important way covers doesn't
mean you should leave it that way.

To be fair, I know accordion covers are damned expensive, and it's
something of a hat trick to find just the right thickness and stiffness
of rubber that will make a proper apron that slides but never gets
snagged (especially under the Y-ways aft of the table, wipers installed
or not).

But those aren't excuses to run it without them.

A lot of guys have made a retractable "window blind" apron that covers
the rear Y ways and the knee dovetails completely, without the hassle of
snagging or bunching up behind the table.

You really should spend the time to do that one thing right. It'll also
help keep coolant and chips out of the Y screw and the knee gear. The
sliding-panel cover for the Y screw always leaks just a little.

You'll have a chunk of change in that machine after conversion, no matter
how cheaply you bought the raw iron. You should protect it properly.

Just sayin'...

LLoyd

On 2014-04-07, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

And I've seen a lot of other Bridgeports which did not have any
form of way covers.

Again, used by folks who never bothered to restore the original
equipment.

Understood.

[ ... ]

A lot of guys have made a retractable "window blind" apron that covers
the rear Y ways and the knee dovetails completely, without the hassle of
snagging or bunching up behind the table.

That sounds interesting.

You really should spend the time to do that one thing right. It'll also
help keep coolant and chips out of the Y screw and the knee gear. The
sliding-panel cover for the Y screw always leaks just a little.

You'll have a chunk of change in that machine after conversion, no matter
how cheaply you bought the raw iron. You should protect it properly.

Just sayin'...

Understood. But until I get it complete, there is little point
to the covers. They just get in the way of work on the machine.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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