Spent a little while this afternoon cleaning all the old wasp nests and
other assorted dirt from the old welder, same exercise having been
instigated owing to the amperage adjusting screw having gotten dry to
the point of being nearly impossible to move.

While doing so, got to wondering if could possibly find a manual or
picture for same that could use as guide for locations of the faded-out
markings on the front that are almost indistinguishable for the low
range and are totally so for the high range above about the 60A marking.
They were silkscreened onto a light background and time has treated
them poorly--the white paint seems to have chalked to the point it has
basically just fallen off the background surface leaving virtually no
trace of its passing...

Anyway, a quick search didn't turn up anything at all like the one here
which is a model EW67C welder/charger. I really don't know just how old
it actually is--I'm guessing it's probably about '58 or so as that's
when we began a major expansion of feedlots and Dad did a lot of custom
fabrication of gate hinges, hooks, bunk hardware, etc., and also was
doing a lot of hardfacing of sweeps and lister shears, etc., then as
well...so I'm guess that was impetus to have purchased it. It still
works well; it doesn't get a lot of use so despite the age it in usage
years is still pretty young I'd guess...

So, just a wild shot in the dark if anybody knows of any other resources
for vintage Marguette stuff--I see Lincoln bought them and Century in 2003.

--

dpb wrote:
Spent a little while this afternoon cleaning all the old wasp nests and
other assorted dirt from the old welder, same exercise having been
instigated owing to the amperage adjusting screw having gotten dry to
the point of being nearly impossible to move.

While doing so, got to wondering if could possibly find a manual or
picture for same that could use as guide for locations of the faded-out
markings on the front that are almost indistinguishable for the low
range and are totally so for the high range above about the 60A marking.
They were silkscreened onto a light background and time has treated
them poorly--the white paint seems to have chalked to the point it has
basically just fallen off the background surface leaving virtually no
trace of its passing...

Anyway, a quick search didn't turn up anything at all like the one here
which is a model EW67C welder/charger. I really don't know just how old
it actually is--I'm guessing it's probably about '58 or so as that's
when we began a major expansion of feedlots and Dad did a lot of custom
fabrication of gate hinges, hooks, bunk hardware, etc., and also was
doing a lot of hardfacing of sweeps and lister shears, etc., then as
well...so I'm guess that was impetus to have purchased it. It still
works well; it doesn't get a lot of use so despite the age it in usage
years is still pretty young I'd guess...

So, just a wild shot in the dark if anybody knows of any other resources
for vintage Marguette stuff--I see Lincoln bought them and Century in 2003.

--


http://www.auctionflex.com/showlot.a...164497&lang=En


--
Steve W.

On 2/18/2014 7:32 PM, Steve W. wrote:
dpb wrote:
....

Anyway, a quick search didn't turn up anything at all like the one
here which is a model EW67C welder/charger. I really don't know just
how old it actually is--...
....
So, just a wild shot in the dark if anybody knows of any other
resources for vintage Marguette stuff--...

http://www.auctionflex.com/showlot.a...164497&lang=En

Well how kewl is that!!!???

Thanks a lot; identical other than I don't think the paint behind the
heat range numbers could have been red altho the rest is the baby-blue
and red like it...but that picture of front is good enough to
guesstimate the range markings from...

Thanks, appreciate the link.

--

On 2/19/2014 12:34 AM, dpb wrote:
....

Thanks a lot; identical other than I don't think the paint behind the
heat range numbers could have been red altho the rest is the baby-blue
and red like it...but that picture of front is good enough to
guesstimate the range markings from...
....

Followup --

Went out to take some measurements to see about making markings -- guess
it was actually a red background at one time, can see just a little tint
left in a few places. It seems that what is left of the red on the silk
screening has just turned into a white chalky surface in that area and
since the letters were just the background base coat it's no wonder
there's nothing at all legible where even the chalky stuff is left. I
had thought that was the color coat but the other lettering and the two
vertical decorative lines are still visible for the most part. Strange...

Guess I'll see about finding one of the inexpensive silk-screen kits and
see if I can make a replacement or just use some of the clear
pressure-sensitive label material and make dark on light and forego the
original look...or, of course, I could just take a paint marker and
freehand it...

--

On 19/02/14 18:10, dpb wrote:
On 2/19/2014 12:34 AM, dpb wrote:
...

Thanks a lot; identical other than I don't think the paint behind the
heat range numbers could have been red altho the rest is the baby-blue
and red like it...but that picture of front is good enough to
guesstimate the range markings from...
...

Followup --

Went out to take some measurements to see about making markings --
guess it was actually a red background at one time, can see just a
little tint left in a few places. It seems that what is left of the
red on the silk screening has just turned into a white chalky surface
in that area and since the letters were just the background base coat
it's no wonder there's nothing at all legible where even the chalky
stuff is left. I had thought that was the color coat but the other
lettering and the two vertical decorative lines are still visible for
the most part. Strange...

Guess I'll see about finding one of the inexpensive silk-screen kits
and see if I can make a replacement or just use some of the clear
pressure-sensitive label material and make dark on light and forego
the original look...or, of course, I could just take a paint marker
and freehand it...

--
I've not tried it but my neighbour has mentioned ink jet printer water
slide transfer paper so that may be worth a look, not tried it myself. A
quick search turned up this sort of thing
http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk...-Paper_151.htm

On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 12:10:04 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 2/19/2014 12:34 AM, dpb wrote:
...

Thanks a lot; identical other than I don't think the paint behind the
heat range numbers could have been red altho the rest is the baby-blue
and red like it...but that picture of front is good enough to
guesstimate the range markings from...
...

Followup --

Went out to take some measurements to see about making markings -- guess
it was actually a red background at one time, can see just a little tint
left in a few places. It seems that what is left of the red on the silk
screening has just turned into a white chalky surface in that area and
since the letters were just the background base coat it's no wonder
there's nothing at all legible where even the chalky stuff is left. I
had thought that was the color coat but the other lettering and the two
vertical decorative lines are still visible for the most part. Strange...

Guess I'll see about finding one of the inexpensive silk-screen kits and
see if I can make a replacement or just use some of the clear
pressure-sensitive label material and make dark on light and forego the
original look...or, of course, I could just take a paint marker and
freehand it...

Id freehand it with a fine point Sharpie. Shrug..there is only going
to be a small range where you will be working in..assuming 3/32-1/8"
rod

Gunner

--
"A "Liberal Paradise" would be a place where everybody has
guaranteed employment,free comprehensive healthcare,
free education, free food, free housing, free clothing,
free utilities, and only Law Enforcement has guns.
And believe it or not, such a place does indeed exist . . . It's called PRISON.

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On 2/19/2014 1:51 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
....

Guess I'll see about finding one of the inexpensive silk-screen kits and
see if I can make a replacement or just use some of the clear
pressure-sensitive label material and make dark on light and forego the
original look...or, of course, I could just take a paint marker and
freehand it...

Id freehand it with a fine point Sharpie. Shrug..there is only going
to be a small range where you will be working in..assuming 3/32-1/8"
rod
....

Gee, that takes all the fun out in a heartbeat...

--

On 2/19/2014 2:46 PM, dpb wrote:
On 2/19/2014 1:51 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
...

....

Id freehand it with a fine point Sharpie. Shrug..there is only going
to be a small range where you will be working in..assuming 3/32-1/8"
rod
...

Gee, that takes all the fun out in a heartbeat...

That is, while I'm not interested in a vintage restoration given that
it's almost an heirloom I'd like to have a reasonable facsimile of the
original. I'm just peculiar that way.

--

dpb wrote:
On 2/19/2014 12:34 AM, dpb wrote:
...

Thanks a lot; identical other than I don't think the paint behind the
heat range numbers could have been red altho the rest is the baby-blue
and red like it...but that picture of front is good enough to
guesstimate the range markings from...
...

Followup --

Went out to take some measurements to see about making markings -- guess
it was actually a red background at one time, can see just a little tint
left in a few places. It seems that what is left of the red on the silk
screening has just turned into a white chalky surface in that area and
since the letters were just the background base coat it's no wonder
there's nothing at all legible where even the chalky stuff is left. I
had thought that was the color coat but the other lettering and the two
vertical decorative lines are still visible for the most part. Strange...

Guess I'll see about finding one of the inexpensive silk-screen kits and
see if I can make a replacement or just use some of the clear
pressure-sensitive label material and make dark on light and forego the
original look...or, of course, I could just take a paint marker and
freehand it...

--

Make up a stencil sheet with the numbers in the correct spots. Sand the
face down, Prime and paint with white. Let it dry. Apply a layer of
contact paper. Trace the numbers and cut them out with a sharp x-acto.
Remove all the areas around the numbers. Mask the face and scuff the
paint, shoot the red. Let it dry. Now peel the contact pieces off to
reveal white markings. Gently sand with 1200 - 2000 and then shoot with
clear.

--
Steve W.

On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 20:51:57 -0500, "Steve W."
wrote:

dpb wrote:
On 2/19/2014 12:34 AM, dpb wrote:
...

Thanks a lot; identical other than I don't think the paint behind the
heat range numbers could have been red altho the rest is the baby-blue
and red like it...but that picture of front is good enough to
guesstimate the range markings from...
...

Followup --

Went out to take some measurements to see about making markings -- guess
it was actually a red background at one time, can see just a little tint
left in a few places. It seems that what is left of the red on the silk
screening has just turned into a white chalky surface in that area and
since the letters were just the background base coat it's no wonder
there's nothing at all legible where even the chalky stuff is left. I
had thought that was the color coat but the other lettering and the two
vertical decorative lines are still visible for the most part. Strange...

Guess I'll see about finding one of the inexpensive silk-screen kits and
see if I can make a replacement or just use some of the clear
pressure-sensitive label material and make dark on light and forego the
original look...or, of course, I could just take a paint marker and
freehand it...

--

Make up a stencil sheet with the numbers in the correct spots. Sand the
face down, Prime and paint with white. Let it dry. Apply a layer of
contact paper. Trace the numbers and cut them out with a sharp x-acto.
Remove all the areas around the numbers. Mask the face and scuff the
paint, shoot the red. Let it dry. Now peel the contact pieces off to
reveal white markings. Gently sand with 1200 - 2000 and then shoot with
clear.
Or paint it and then apply "rub-on" letters (Letraset) then clear
over that.

On 2/19/2014 8:53 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 20:51:57 -0500, "Steve
wrote:
....

Make up a stencil sheet with the numbers in the correct spots. Sand the
face down, Prime and paint with white. Let it dry. Apply a layer of
contact paper. Trace the numbers and cut them out with a sharp x-acto.
Remove all the areas around the numbers. Mask the face and scuff the
paint, shoot the red. Let it dry. Now peel the contact pieces off to
reveal white markings. Gently sand with 1200 - 2000 and then shoot with
clear.
Or paint it and then apply "rub-on" letters (Letraset) then clear
over that.

Now _that's_ a thot, indeed...or I could just print them on the clear
label stock I've got and clearcoat over that. I'd been thinking in the
whole instead of individually.

After observing the condition of the what little red on the face
markings I've never seen anything quite like what it has done -- it's
not just faded (common, of course), it's actually disintegrated and just
falls off in a powder if touch it the least little bit. The red on the
top cover, otoh, is almost pristine with just a little fading. Almost
indistinguishable in color between that that has been protected from any
sun under the crank and the rest of the top. Peculiar stuff they
must've used for the screening in it acts so differently.

I took the guesstimates measured from the markings could still make out
and a scaled set from the image of the posted link picture and plotted
vs the amperage on semi-log axis...works pretty darn good to locate the
missing ones' locations pretty closely compared to predicting those
which are observable.

Anyway, thanks for the ideas (and again to SteveW for the link--don't
know how he found it, but it was a big help. I couldn't even make out
that the bottom number on high range is 35A instead of 30 as was
guessing)...

--

On 2014-02-20, dpb wrote:
On 2/19/2014 8:53 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 20:51:57 -0500, "Steve
wrote:
...

Make up a stencil sheet with the numbers in the correct spots. Sand the
face down, Prime and paint with white. Let it dry. Apply a layer of
contact paper. Trace the numbers and cut them out with a sharp x-acto.
Remove all the areas around the numbers. Mask the face and scuff the
paint, shoot the red. Let it dry. Now peel the contact pieces off to
reveal white markings. Gently sand with 1200 - 2000 and then shoot with
clear.
Or paint it and then apply "rub-on" letters (Letraset) then clear
over that.

Now _that's_ a thot, indeed...or I could just print them on the clear
label stock I've got and clearcoat over that. I'd been thinking in the
whole instead of individually.

Hmm ... paint the background all one solid color, then apply
press-on lettering (full outline, not on clear backgroun) and paint over
that. Then peel off the lettering and you will have the original
background color as the color of your letters. The spray clear over it
all.

After observing the condition of the what little red on the face
markings I've never seen anything quite like what it has done -- it's
not just faded (common, of course), it's actually disintegrated and just
falls off in a powder if touch it the least little bit. The red on the
top cover, otoh, is almost pristine with just a little fading. Almost
indistinguishable in color between that that has been protected from any
sun under the crank and the rest of the top. Peculiar stuff they
must've used for the screening in it acts so differently.

Perhaps it was the UV from the welding -- done fairly close to
the front over time, and it would miss the top pretty much -- which has
faded the red. Red is the worst common color at fading with UV
exposure.

I would use black and white for the colors, not the original
red, just so it will last longer. :-) Or turn the face so the UV from
the welding doesn't hit it.

I took the guesstimates measured from the markings could still make out
and a scaled set from the image of the posted link picture and plotted
vs the amperage on semi-log axis...works pretty darn good to locate the
missing ones' locations pretty closely compared to predicting those
which are observable.

Hmm ... a real ammeter to measure what you get?

Anyway, thanks for the ideas (and again to SteveW for the link--don't
know how he found it, but it was a big help. I couldn't even make out
that the bottom number on high range is 35A instead of 30 as was
guessing)...

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Thu, 20 Feb 2014 07:29:20 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 2/19/2014 8:53 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 20:51:57 -0500, "Steve
wrote:
...

Make up a stencil sheet with the numbers in the correct spots. Sand the
face down, Prime and paint with white. Let it dry. Apply a layer of
contact paper. Trace the numbers and cut them out with a sharp x-acto.
Remove all the areas around the numbers. Mask the face and scuff the
paint, shoot the red. Let it dry. Now peel the contact pieces off to
reveal white markings. Gently sand with 1200 - 2000 and then shoot with
clear.
Or paint it and then apply "rub-on" letters (Letraset) then clear
over that.

Now _that's_ a thot, indeed...or I could just print them on the clear
label stock I've got and clearcoat over that. I'd been thinking in the
whole instead of individually.

After observing the condition of the what little red on the face
markings I've never seen anything quite like what it has done -- it's
not just faded (common, of course), it's actually disintegrated and just
falls off in a powder if touch it the least little bit. The red on the
top cover, otoh, is almost pristine with just a little fading. Almost
indistinguishable in color between that that has been protected from any
sun under the crank and the rest of the top. Peculiar stuff they
must've used for the screening in it acts so differently.

I took the guesstimates measured from the markings could still make out
and a scaled set from the image of the posted link picture and plotted
vs the amperage on semi-log axis...works pretty darn good to locate the
missing ones' locations pretty closely compared to predicting those
which are observable.

Anyway, thanks for the ideas (and again to SteveW for the link--don't
know how he found it, but it was a big help. I couldn't even make out
that the bottom number on high range is 35A instead of 30 as was
guessing)...

If you use a graphics program, you can print them in reverse on the
clear stock, then apply them with the film on the outside. The film
may help protect the pigment.

Pete Keillor

On Fri, 21 Feb 2014 06:40:15 -0600, Pete Keillor
wrote:

On Thu, 20 Feb 2014 07:29:20 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 2/19/2014 8:53 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 20:51:57 -0500, "Steve
wrote:
...

Make up a stencil sheet with the numbers in the correct spots. Sand the
face down, Prime and paint with white. Let it dry. Apply a layer of
contact paper. Trace the numbers and cut them out with a sharp x-acto.
Remove all the areas around the numbers. Mask the face and scuff the
paint, shoot the red. Let it dry. Now peel the contact pieces off to
reveal white markings. Gently sand with 1200 - 2000 and then shoot with
clear.
Or paint it and then apply "rub-on" letters (Letraset) then clear
over that.

Now _that's_ a thot, indeed...or I could just print them on the clear
label stock I've got and clearcoat over that. I'd been thinking in the
whole instead of individually.

After observing the condition of the what little red on the face
markings I've never seen anything quite like what it has done -- it's
not just faded (common, of course), it's actually disintegrated and just
falls off in a powder if touch it the least little bit. The red on the
top cover, otoh, is almost pristine with just a little fading. Almost
indistinguishable in color between that that has been protected from any
sun under the crank and the rest of the top. Peculiar stuff they
must've used for the screening in it acts so differently.

I took the guesstimates measured from the markings could still make out
and a scaled set from the image of the posted link picture and plotted
vs the amperage on semi-log axis...works pretty darn good to locate the
missing ones' locations pretty closely compared to predicting those
which are observable.

Anyway, thanks for the ideas (and again to SteveW for the link--don't
know how he found it, but it was a big help. I couldn't even make out
that the bottom number on high range is 35A instead of 30 as was
guessing)...

If you use a graphics program, you can print them in reverse on the
clear stock, then apply them with the film on the outside. The film
may help protect the pigment.

Pete Keillor
Or you can do like I've been known to do and stamp the numbers into
the aluminum or zink plate with number punches, then wipe some
contrasting colour paint into the indentations - finish off with a
swipe of samdpaper or scotchbrite. It'l never fade away!!!

On 2/21/2014 7:23 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 21 Feb 2014 06:40:15 -0600, Pete Keillor
wrote:
....

If you use a graphics program, you can print them in reverse on the
clear stock, then apply them with the film on the outside. The film
may help protect the pigment.

Pete Keillor
Or you can do like I've been known to do and stamp the numbers into
the aluminum or zink plate with number punches, then wipe some
contrasting colour paint into the indentations - finish off with a
swipe of samdpaper or scotchbrite. It'l never fade away!!!

Well, given the wind was howling yesterday behind the front (64 mph gust
at airport, 50 mph sustained at peak at roughly 3AM), I didn't try to
fight it outside more than the absolute minimum required to check
water/feed/etc. ...

So, I built a nice graphic with Matlab and just for the exercise in not
having done it before I found a pretty inexpensive starter stencil kit
in town so I'm going to try it on a piece of scrap and see how it goes...

It's some winter entertainment as well as the (hopeful) result...

--

On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 14:46:29 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 2/19/2014 1:51 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
...

Guess I'll see about finding one of the inexpensive silk-screen kits and
see if I can make a replacement or just use some of the clear
pressure-sensitive label material and make dark on light and forego the
original look...or, of course, I could just take a paint marker and
freehand it...

Id freehand it with a fine point Sharpie. Shrug..there is only going
to be a small range where you will be working in..assuming 3/32-1/8"
rod
...

Gee, that takes all the fun out in a heartbeat...

Reality certainly is a bitch isnt it?

(Grin)

--
"A "Liberal Paradise" would be a place where everybody has
guaranteed employment,free comprehensive healthcare,
free education, free food, free housing, free clothing,
free utilities, and only Law Enforcement has guns.
And believe it or not, such a place does indeed exist . . . It's called PRISON.

---
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