On 2014-02-20, dpb wrote:
On 2/19/2014 8:53 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 20:51:57 -0500, "Steve
wrote:
...
Make up a stencil sheet with the numbers in the correct spots. Sand the
face down, Prime and paint with white. Let it dry. Apply a layer of
contact paper. Trace the numbers and cut them out with a sharp x-acto.
Remove all the areas around the numbers. Mask the face and scuff the
paint, shoot the red. Let it dry. Now peel the contact pieces off to
reveal white markings. Gently sand with 1200 - 2000 and then shoot with
clear.
Or paint it and then apply "rub-on" letters (Letraset) then clear
over that.
Now _that's_ a thot, indeed...or I could just print them on the clear
label stock I've got and clearcoat over that. I'd been thinking in the
whole instead of individually.
Hmm ... paint the background all one solid color, then apply
press-on lettering (full outline, not on clear backgroun) and paint over
that. Then peel off the lettering and you will have the original
background color as the color of your letters. The spray clear over it
all.
After observing the condition of the what little red on the face
markings I've never seen anything quite like what it has done -- it's
not just faded (common, of course), it's actually disintegrated and just
falls off in a powder if touch it the least little bit. The red on the
top cover, otoh, is almost pristine with just a little fading. Almost
indistinguishable in color between that that has been protected from any
sun under the crank and the rest of the top. Peculiar stuff they
must've used for the screening in it acts so differently.
Perhaps it was the UV from the welding -- done fairly close to
the front over time, and it would miss the top pretty much -- which has
faded the red. Red is the worst common color at fading with UV
exposure.
I would use black and white for the colors, not the original
red, just so it will last longer. :-) Or turn the face so the UV from
the welding doesn't hit it.
I took the guesstimates measured from the markings could still make out
and a scaled set from the image of the posted link picture and plotted
vs the amperage on semi-log axis...works pretty darn good to locate the
missing ones' locations pretty closely compared to predicting those
which are observable.
Hmm ... a real ammeter to measure what you get?
Anyway, thanks for the ideas (and again to SteveW for the link--don't
know how he found it, but it was a big help. I couldn't even make out
that the bottom number on high range is 35A instead of 30 as was
guessing)...
Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. |
http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---