I am familiar with autopmotive and tractor bearings, however can not think of a bearing the size of the top of an English wheel.

It would seem if there were one that sized it would be as much or more than the cost of an English wheel considering how much bearings were when I purchased them for my trailer!On Monday, January 6, 2014 6:33:45 PM UTC-6, Clare wrote:
On Mon, 6 Jan 2014 04:45:07 -0800 (PST), stryped

wrote:



On Sunday, January 5, 2014 3:03:27 PM UTC-6, Clare wrote:

On Sun, 5 Jan 2014 06:03:54 -0800 (PST), stryped



wrote:







Interesting. just wish i had a lathe to macine the wheels



Then you end up with soft wheels - OK for aluminum, but problematic



for steel. The rollers need to be HARD. Which makes machining them on



the lathe a bit of fun.







For a SMALL english wheel, a self aligning ball bearing working



against a straight ball bearing works pretty well.



Where could I get such a ball bearing?

From any industrial bearing supplier, or possibly from your local

farm supply.

On Tue, 7 Jan 2014 05:21:05 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

I am familiar with autopmotive and tractor bearings, however can not think of a bearing the size of the top of an English wheel.

I said a SMALL english wheel. I have used an "english wheel" with
rollers 1.25" in diameter. And 10 inches in diameter. ANd I have a
bearing in the garage over 6" in diameter

It would seem if there were one that sized it would be as much or more than the cost of an English wheel considering how much bearings were when I purchased them for my trailer!On Monday, January 6, 2014 6:33:45 PM UTC-6, Clare wrote:
On Mon, 6 Jan 2014 04:45:07 -0800 (PST), stryped

wrote:



On Sunday, January 5, 2014 3:03:27 PM UTC-6, Clare wrote:

On Sun, 5 Jan 2014 06:03:54 -0800 (PST), stryped



wrote:







Interesting. just wish i had a lathe to macine the wheels



Then you end up with soft wheels - OK for aluminum, but problematic



for steel. The rollers need to be HARD. Which makes machining them on



the lathe a bit of fun.







For a SMALL english wheel, a self aligning ball bearing working



against a straight ball bearing works pretty well.



Where could I get such a ball bearing?

From any industrial bearing supplier, or possibly from your local

farm supply.

On Tuesday, January 7, 2014 11:25:51 AM UTC-6, Clare wrote:
On Tue, 7 Jan 2014 05:21:05 -0800 (PST), stryped

wrote:



I am familiar with autopmotive and tractor bearings, however can not think of a bearing the size of the top of an English wheel.



I said a SMALL english wheel. I have used an "english wheel" with

rollers 1.25" in diameter. And 10 inches in diameter. ANd I have a

bearing in the garage over 6" in diameter



It would seem if there were one that sized it would be as much or more than the cost of an English wheel considering how much bearings were when I purchased them for my trailer!On Monday, January 6, 2014 6:33:45 PM UTC-6, Clare wrote:

On Mon, 6 Jan 2014 04:45:07 -0800 (PST), stryped



wrote:







On Sunday, January 5, 2014 3:03:27 PM UTC-6, Clare wrote:



On Sun, 5 Jan 2014 06:03:54 -0800 (PST), stryped







wrote:















Interesting. just wish i had a lathe to macine the wheels







Then you end up with soft wheels - OK for aluminum, but problematic







for steel. The rollers need to be HARD. Which makes machining them on







the lathe a bit of fun.















For a SMALL english wheel, a self aligning ball bearing working







against a straight ball bearing works pretty well.







Where could I get such a ball bearing?



From any industrial bearing supplier, or possibly from your local



farm supply.

Got to thinking, I guess having multiple bearings side to side to increase the width would not be a good idea?

Got to thinking, I guess having multiple bearings side to side to
increase the width would not be a good idea?

Yep, bad idea. The working area of an english wheel is the point where
the tip of the rollers meet. The bottom roller is not flat, it has
various radii depending on what you are trying to do. The top roller is
usually flat as possible.

The suggestion of the bearings is to give you something to try out for
less money than buying a big wheel.


Here is a multipurpose tool that wouldn't be hard to weld up.
I would add a top and bottom brace to the wheel unless you have really
thick steel. Flex in the frame is the limiting factor with a wheel.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e6...ictures001.jpg

The planishing section can be lighter because it doesn't depend on
constant high pressure. I would make the bag table removable so you
could use different anvil dollies with it.

--
Steve W.

stryped wrote:


Got to thinking, I guess having multiple bearings side to side to
increase the width would not be a good idea?

http://www.jamesriser.com/Machinery/...l/Finally.html
--
Steve W.

In article , says...

Got to thinking, I guess having multiple bearings side to side to
increase the width would not be a good idea?

Yep, bad idea. The working area of an english wheel is the point where
the tip of the rollers meet. The bottom roller is not flat, it has
various radii depending on what you are trying to do. The top roller is
usually flat as possible.

The suggestion of the bearings is to give you something to try out for
less money than buying a big wheel.


Here is a multipurpose tool that wouldn't be hard to weld up.
I would add a top and bottom brace to the wheel unless you have really
thick steel. Flex in the frame is the limiting factor with a wheel.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e6...ictures001.jpg

The planishing section can be lighter because it doesn't depend on
constant high pressure. I would make the bag table removable so you
could use different anvil dollies with it.


"Flex in the frame is the limiting factor with a wheel."

Wrong. Some flex is often helpful:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/a...p/t-51342.html


"Some flex is nice. If the frame had no flex at all, it would be trying
to make all the metal the same thickness. Metalshaping requires that
there are different thicknesses of metal to change the surface area of
the panel. You often use the english wheel to smooth the entire panel
after shaping. This helps even out all the stresses from the changes in
material thickness."

"I agree with Brad54 and what Ron Covell says. Any flex in the frame
doesn't really impede your ability to make a panel. Your level of
precision isn't in the contact patch; it's in your hands and eyes. It's
in your control over the panel, and your ability to read it to see what
it needs."

On Tuesday, January 7, 2014 2:27:39 PM UTC-6, Steve W. wrote:
Got to thinking, I guess having multiple bearings side to side to

increase the width would not be a good idea?



Yep, bad idea. The working area of an english wheel is the point where

the tip of the rollers meet. The bottom roller is not flat, it has

various radii depending on what you are trying to do. The top roller is

usually flat as possible.



The suggestion of the bearings is to give you something to try out for

less money than buying a big wheel.





Here is a multipurpose tool that wouldn't be hard to weld up.

I would add a top and bottom brace to the wheel unless you have really

thick steel. Flex in the frame is the limiting factor with a wheel.



http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e6...ictures001.jpg



The planishing section can be lighter because it doesn't depend on

constant high pressure. I would make the bag table removable so you

could use different anvil dollies with it.



--

Steve W.

How hard is it really to make a car panel with one of those wheels? I mean does it takes years of practice to be able to use?

On Tue, 07 Jan 2014 15:29:56 -0500, "Steve W."
wrote:

stryped wrote:


Got to thinking, I guess having multiple bearings side to side to
increase the width would not be a good idea?

http://www.jamesriser.com/Machinery/...l/Finally.html
The "little" english wheel with the 1.5" bearings for rollers was
made out of a "vice grip" and it is used for making things like
fairings for aircraft windsheilds and other small parts from aluminum,
copper, and brass.

On Tue, 7 Jan 2014 15:55:32 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 7, 2014 2:27:39 PM UTC-6, Steve W. wrote:
Got to thinking, I guess having multiple bearings side to side to

increase the width would not be a good idea?



Yep, bad idea. The working area of an english wheel is the point where

the tip of the rollers meet. The bottom roller is not flat, it has

various radii depending on what you are trying to do. The top roller is

usually flat as possible.



The suggestion of the bearings is to give you something to try out for

less money than buying a big wheel.





Here is a multipurpose tool that wouldn't be hard to weld up.

I would add a top and bottom brace to the wheel unless you have really

thick steel. Flex in the frame is the limiting factor with a wheel.



http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e6...ictures001.jpg



The planishing section can be lighter because it doesn't depend on

constant high pressure. I would make the bag table removable so you

could use different anvil dollies with it.



--

Steve W.

How hard is it really to make a car panel with one of those wheels? I mean does it takes years of practice to be able to use?
To make them right - YES.

On Tue, 07 Jan 2014 19:41:25 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 07 Jan 2014 15:29:56 -0500, "Steve W."
wrote:

stryped wrote:


Got to thinking, I guess having multiple bearings side to side to
increase the width would not be a good idea?

http://www.jamesriser.com/Machinery/...l/Finally.html
The "little" english wheel with the 1.5" bearings for rollers was
made out of a "vice grip" and it is used for making things like
fairings for aircraft windsheilds and other small parts from aluminum,
copper, and brass.

That's a really good article on English Wheel use and tuning. Saved!

--
Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing.
This is the ultimate. -- Chuang-tzu

wrote:
On Tue, 07 Jan 2014 15:29:56 -0500, "Steve W."
wrote:

stryped wrote:

Got to thinking, I guess having multiple bearings side to side to
increase the width would not be a good idea?
http://www.jamesriser.com/Machinery/...l/Finally.html
The "little" english wheel with the 1.5" bearings for rollers was
made out of a "vice grip" and it is used for making things like
fairings for aircraft windsheilds and other small parts from aluminum,
copper, and brass.

Nice idea, I use a trim hammer and shot bag for small stuff. May just
build a baby wheel to try out.

--
Steve W.

stryped wrote:


Steve W.

How hard is it really to make a car panel with one of those wheels? I
mean does it takes years of practice to be able to use?

That all depends on your learning ability. I've known folks who couldn't
use a wheel to remove a ding from a bicycle fender if you offered them a
bar of gold and a year. Others can turn out very nice work in a week.
Like everything else, the more practice you have the better you can become.


--
Steve W.

"stryped" wrote in message
...

How hard is it really to make a car panel with one of those wheels?
I mean does it takes years of practice to be able to use?

That depends on how fussy you are. Bondo hides sheetmetal errors.

The next time you open a tin can save the lid and try to hammer it
into a smooth bowl shape.