On Monday, December 9, 2013 2:17:11 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:


I woke up to some fun this morning. -=No water=- The pump pressure

is up but the lines are frozen. I put a heater in the pump house (the

light had burned out, allowing the freeze?) an hour ago but no joy

yet. I'll put it in the crawlspace in a few minutes and see if that

does it. sigh



It has been 10 or 11F here two days in a row. The lowest I've seen

here before is 17F, and my outside line burst 8 years ago. I have

insulated the exterior pipes and shut them off for the winter now, so

this is the first problem I've had, and the first time losing water.

There's a shutoff valve for each inside and outside lines.



Crap!



Been there and done that. Not fun. If the pipes are metal , you can hook an Ac welder to the pipe with one connection to each side of the frozen section. Put the welder on the lowest current and turn it on. The current thru the pipe will heat the pipe enough to allow a trickle of water . And the trickle of water will melt more of the ice in the pipe.

A good long term solution is heat cable made by Raychem. It is a cable that does not draw much current when warm and more when cold. Look on the internet for better write up.

Dan

On Mon, 9 Dec 2013 15:45:57 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Monday, December 9, 2013 2:17:11 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:


I woke up to some fun this morning. -=No water=- The pump pressure

is up but the lines are frozen. I put a heater in the pump house (the

light had burned out, allowing the freeze?) an hour ago but no joy

yet. I'll put it in the crawlspace in a few minutes and see if that

does it. sigh



It has been 10 or 11F here two days in a row. The lowest I've seen

here before is 17F, and my outside line burst 8 years ago. I have

insulated the exterior pipes and shut them off for the winter now, so

this is the first problem I've had, and the first time losing water.

There's a shutoff valve for each inside and outside lines.



Crap!



Been there and done that. Not fun. If the pipes are metal , you can hook an Ac welder to the pipe with one connection to each side of the frozen section. Put the welder on the lowest current and turn it on. The current thru the pipe will heat the pipe enough to allow a trickle of water . And the trickle of water will melt more of the ice in the pipe.

A good long term solution is heat cable made by Raychem. It is a cable that does not draw much current when warm and more when cold. Look on the internet for better write up.

Dan
I have heat tape on some of my pipes at the pressure tank. The tape
has a thermostat so it stays off until the temp drops low enough. Much
better tyhan a light bulb. More of a hassle to wrap the pipes. There's
something queer going on in my shop walls though. The building is
steel, sorta like a quonset hut. In the bathroom are steel studs with
drywall attached. The pipes to the sink and toilet run through the
steel studs. I did the plumbing and then insulated the plumbing before
putting up the drywall. Yet the pipes have frozen in the walls a few
times when the shop got really cold. My wife said that maybe rats or
mice got in the walls and shifted some insulation. I'll bet that's it.
Eric

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On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 17:51:42 -0600, Ignoramus3322
wrote:

On 2013-12-08, wrote:
On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 10:07:29 -0600, Ignoramus3322
wrote:

On 2013-12-08, wrote:
On Fri, 06 Dec 2013 19:47:58 -0600, Ignoramus5722
wrote:

I have a strange sounding idea. I want to have an extra compressed air
tank in my system. I have a bunch of tanks at this moment to choose
from. This way, I could run air hungry tools like breakers, etc,
intermittently but longer.

So far, so good, and nothing complicated. I have a whole bunch of
tanks right now, and thought to do something nice for my shop and have
an extra tank.

Examples of tanks I have a

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp/Marengo/186.jpg
http://goo.gl/PdkzbM (Tank with "QT-15" lettering on left)

However, I also realize that with a big extra tank, it will take so
much longer for the air system to come up to pressure. This will be my
wasted money, as people will be waiting longer to use compressed air.

So, I thought, can I have a valve, that would not fill the tank, until
system pressure reached 120 PSI. And then it would shut off again if
the pressure ever falls to below 90 PSI.

To use the accumulator tank to supply air, another pipe would be used
with a check valve.

This setup makes sense to me, as

1) I would get the system to reach pressure quickly and
2) I would eventually get a supply of air in the accumulator,
without ever dropping the system pressure below 90 PSI.

I do realize that I can accomplish what I want, with a electric
pressure switch and a normally open pneumatic valve. But I thought,
perhaps, there is a purely pneumatic valve that does this? What would
it be called?

Here is what I would use. The 60cfm model.

http://www.airtekltd.com/valves.htm#LOAD_GENIE

It will open and allow flow to the secondary tank at 120psi and block
the flow when the primary tank drops to 90psi. A parallel line with a
check valve to allow flow from the secondary to the primary would
allow both tanks to supply the system below 90psi.

Interesting. There are several items listed. Do you mean item "NLG-1"?

i

Yes, NLG-1. With this and the check valve, there is no need for
electrical power to operate it.

OK, couple more question.

1. For my application, I need to simply connect my compressed air
system to the inlet, cap the "outlet" connection, and connect tank to
the muffler connection. Right?

2. Is it piloted or does it get pressure from the input line?

i

Compressor output to inlet.
Outlet to primary tank.
Exhaust to secondary tank.
Plug the throttle port.

Second line between tanks with check valve blocking flow from primary
to secondary.

Startup of morning - secondary tank will be empty until primary is at
120. Then flow goes to secondary until primary drops to 90. Secondary
will fill in increments. If primary usage keeps pressure below 90, no
air will go to secondary.

Your pressure switch should be set 5psi higher than the unloader
pressure so the pump doesn't turn off every time the unloader cycles.
When the pump does turn off, both tanks will be at the same pressure
and with usage, will bleed down together.

On Mon, 09 Dec 2013 16:42:16 -0800, wrote:

On Mon, 9 Dec 2013 15:45:57 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Monday, December 9, 2013 2:17:11 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:


I woke up to some fun this morning. -=No water=- The pump pressure

is up but the lines are frozen. I put a heater in the pump house (the

light had burned out, allowing the freeze?) an hour ago but no joy

yet. I'll put it in the crawlspace in a few minutes and see if that

does it. sigh



It has been 10 or 11F here two days in a row. The lowest I've seen

here before is 17F, and my outside line burst 8 years ago. I have

insulated the exterior pipes and shut them off for the winter now, so

this is the first problem I've had, and the first time losing water.

There's a shutoff valve for each inside and outside lines.



Crap!



Been there and done that. Not fun. If the pipes are metal , you can hook an Ac welder to the pipe with one connection to each side of the frozen section. Put the welder on the lowest current and turn it on. The current thru the pipe will heat the pipe enough to allow a trickle of water . And the trickle of water will melt more of the ice in the pipe.

A good long term solution is heat cable made by Raychem. It is a cable that does not draw much current when warm and more when cold. Look on the internet for better write up.

Dan
I have heat tape on some of my pipes at the pressure tank. The tape
has a thermostat so it stays off until the temp drops low enough. Much
better tyhan a light bulb. More of a hassle to wrap the pipes. There's
something queer going on in my shop walls though. The building is
steel, sorta like a quonset hut. In the bathroom are steel studs with
drywall attached. The pipes to the sink and toilet run through the
steel studs. I did the plumbing and then insulated the plumbing before
putting up the drywall. Yet the pipes have frozen in the walls a few
times when the shop got really cold. My wife said that maybe rats or
mice got in the walls and shifted some insulation. I'll bet that's it.

A few inches of fluff around a pipe isn't enough to keep it from
freezing after days of sub-freezing weather. Drill a few holes (or
cut some slots widthwise along the wall and remove the sections) so
you can pump some nice Polyurinestain(tm) foam around them. It has
about 3-5x the insulative value of fiberglass or rockwool. also make
sure that none of the pipes actually touch the metal studs. They
would provide heatsinks/chillsinks(?) to the water.

Running a thermostat on my plumbing might be dicey, as my well water
runs about 40F most of the year. I'll have to check out the
possibilities, though. Days like today Suck.

UPDATE:
Hurrah! I now have running cold water in the main bathroom sink,
toilet, and tub. The kitchen sink drips cold water on occasion, but
all hot water is still frozen. It has the longest run, unfortunately.
I sure wish I had an instant-on water heater in the bathroom right
now. I'll be quite -ripe- before the week is out... Time for a GI
spongebath, ah reckon.

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
news

UPDATE:
Hurrah! I now have running cold water in the main bathroom sink,
toilet, and tub. The kitchen sink drips cold water on occasion, but
all hot water is still frozen. It has the longest run,
unfortunately.
I sure wish I had an instant-on water heater in the bathroom right
now. I'll be quite -ripe- before the week is out... Time for a GI
spongebath, ah reckon.


My power outage emergency shower is a garden spray tank with a sink
spray hose replacing the wand. I removed the dip tube and jammed 3/8"
tubing into the tank outlet.

I heat a kettle of water on the wood stove, mix it to tolerable
temperature in a pail, then fill the sprayer in the shower where
spills don't matter. You could add a saucepan to scoop hot water from
the kettle to the pail so you don't risk spilling it on your feet, and
a bungee cord to hold the tank upright. The 2 gallon size of sprayer
is a reasonable balance between running time and ease of handling when
you and it are slippery with soap.

In the summer the sprayer is stored out back as a quick-reaction fire
extinguisher. The modification makes it obvious that it isn't for
chemicals.
jsw

On Tue, 10 Dec 2013 09:10:10 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
news

UPDATE:
Hurrah! I now have running cold water in the main bathroom sink,
toilet, and tub. The kitchen sink drips cold water on occasion, but
all hot water is still frozen. It has the longest run,
unfortunately.
I sure wish I had an instant-on water heater in the bathroom right
now. I'll be quite -ripe- before the week is out... Time for a GI
spongebath, ah reckon.


My power outage emergency shower is a garden spray tank with a sink
spray hose replacing the wand. I removed the dip tube and jammed 3/8"
tubing into the tank outlet.

Sounds like a winner, and something which could be used after the fall
of civilization. (I'm soooo positive, aren't I?)


I heat a kettle of water on the wood stove, mix it to tolerable
temperature in a pail, then fill the sprayer in the shower where
spills don't matter. You could add a saucepan to scoop hot water from
the kettle to the pail so you don't risk spilling it on your feet, and
a bungee cord to hold the tank upright. The 2 gallon size of sprayer
is a reasonable balance between running time and ease of handling when
you and it are slippery with soap.


In the summer the sprayer is stored out back as a quick-reaction fire
extinguisher. The modification makes it obvious that it isn't for
chemicals.

Excellent. Showering in RoundUp residue wouldn't do, would it?


UPDATE as of 10:45pm last evening: I have hot water! It was back
down to 20F when the hot water suddenly came back on. I guess my day
of heating things took a long while to work, but finally did. Whew!
I have a hot cup of coffee in me and now it's off to the shower.


--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 10 Dec 2013 09:10:10 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

In the summer the sprayer is stored out back as a quick-reaction
fire
extinguisher. The modification makes it obvious that it isn't for
chemicals.

Excellent. Showering in RoundUp residue wouldn't do, would it?


Also I don't want kids spraying each other in the face with pesticide.
I bought a new sprayer for this.
jsw

Ignoramus31823 wrote:
On 2013-12-07, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

it means that it will not be filled fast
when the system reaches pressure.



Let me revise my comment a little.

You're a math guy. How will the big tank _ever_ fill quickly, and still
not prevent you from getting full pressure quickly in the small tank?

Very simple. The big tank would start to fill only when system
pressure is above, say, 120, and stop filling if it drops below, say,
90. A valve and a pressure switch can do that.

Opening a 'pass-over' valve to the big tank once the small one is full
won't do it! It'll drop the system down to system peak divided by the
ratio of tank volumes the INSTANT you open it (well, within seconds). So
the pump will come back on, and now run an intolerable length of time
before you have enough pressure to work. You can't have 'quick' and
'full pressure' in the same formula.

Think some more, you will realize that what I want to do is the nicest
way of doing it.

probably not. The 90-120 psi stuff is just a distraction from the real
problem. you don't want to fill the large tank when there's a load on your
compressor from tools. Pressure on the system doesn't truly indicate if
you have a load or not.

I don't deal with air systems, maybe somebody can answer this-

do they make simple flow guages or sensors for compressed air systems?

If so connect both tanks with a check valves in a Y, allowing flow out to
your load, but no flow between tanks. The connection to each tank from the
compressor is with a solenoid valve in the same Y configuration. The only
states are compressor connected to no tank, connected to the small tank,
connected to the large tank or connected to both tanks.

back to the flow detector-

When you detect a load on your system, disconnect the large tank from the
compressor. Only the small tank is connected to the compressor. It will
fill quickly so nobody is standing around.

If there is no, or low tool load, disconnect the small tank from the
compressor, and connect the compressor to the large tank. The air supply
to your load will be from the tank with the highest pressure, which is the
small one. Immediate usage needs are met.

When the pressure there (small tank) drops too much, you start the
compressor and disconnect the large tank.

Add a pressure sensor to the large tank. Once it hits minimum acceptable
pressure (90 in your case) leave both valves from the compressor to both
tanks open. You're now using the capacity of both tanks and the fill of
the large tank never interrupted with your immediate use requirements.

You need a little logic to run this, but it's nothing beyond a couple
relays.

On 2013-12-11, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Ignoramus31823 wrote:
Think some more, you will realize that what I want to do is the nicest
way of doing it.

probably not. The 90-120 psi stuff is just a distraction from the real
problem. you don't want to fill the large tank when there's a load on your
compressor from tools. Pressure on the system doesn't truly indicate if
you have a load or not.

This is completely untrue.

There is nothing wrong with filling secondary tank, and using tools at
the same time, as long as the system pressure is adequate (above 90
PSI for tools).

I don't deal with air systems, maybe somebody can answer this-

do they make simple flow guages or sensors for compressed air systems?

If so connect both tanks with a check valves in a Y, allowing flow out to
your load, but no flow between tanks. The connection to each tank from the
compressor is with a solenoid valve in the same Y configuration. The only
states are compressor connected to no tank, connected to the small tank,
connected to the large tank or connected to both tanks.

back to the flow detector-

When you detect a load on your system, disconnect the large tank from the
compressor. Only the small tank is connected to the compressor. It will
fill quickly so nobody is standing around.

If there is no, or low tool load, disconnect the small tank from the
compressor, and connect the compressor to the large tank. The air supply
to your load will be from the tank with the highest pressure, which is the
small one. Immediate usage needs are met.

When the pressure there (small tank) drops too much, you start the
compressor and disconnect the large tank.

Add a pressure sensor to the large tank. Once it hits minimum acceptable
pressure (90 in your case) leave both valves from the compressor to both
tanks open. You're now using the capacity of both tanks and the fill of
the large tank never interrupted with your immediate use requirements.

You need a little logic to run this, but it's nothing beyond a couple
relays.

Whatever you describe, is not hard to do with pressure switches and
relays.

i

Ignoramus7589 wrote:
On 2013-12-11, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Ignoramus31823 wrote:
Think some more, you will realize that what I want to do is the nicest
way of doing it.

probably not. The 90-120 psi stuff is just a distraction from the real
problem. you don't want to fill the large tank when there's a load on your
compressor from tools. Pressure on the system doesn't truly indicate if
you have a load or not.

This is completely untrue.

There is nothing wrong with filling secondary tank, and using tools at
the same time, as long as the system pressure is adequate (above 90
PSI for tools).

have at it.

you solved your own problem in the most clever way possible. it's
brilliant. job well done.

On Fri, 06 Dec 2013 19:47:58 -0600, Ignoramus5722
wrote:

I have a strange sounding idea. I want to have an extra compressed air
tank in my system. I have a bunch of tanks at this moment to choose
from. This way, I could run air hungry tools like breakers, etc,
intermittently but longer.

So far, so good, and nothing complicated. I have a whole bunch of
tanks right now, and thought to do something nice for my shop and have
an extra tank.

Examples of tanks I have a

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp/Marengo/186.jpg
http://goo.gl/PdkzbM (Tank with "QT-15" lettering on left)

However, I also realize that with a big extra tank, it will take so
much longer for the air system to come up to pressure. This will be my
wasted money, as people will be waiting longer to use compressed air.

So, I thought, can I have a valve, that would not fill the tank, until
system pressure reached 120 PSI. And then it would shut off again if
the pressure ever falls to below 90 PSI.

Google Backpressure Regulator - Fisher makes them, and probably
others. Holds off flow till the feed side is above a minimum.

We used them at Ye Olde GTE so that the underground cables always had
~9 PSI on them even if someone opened the aerial to work on it, rather
than let the whole pipeline see a 'zero leak'.

Which is important if one of the manholes in the underground is full
of water and also has a tiny leak on a case, you want to maintain
pressure going out than have water coming in - if it's paper insulated
cable, just a few drops of water and you're in huge trouble.

Even with Plastic insulated cables it can be real bad - Call it in if
you ever see a flooded street with a little string of bubbles coming
out of the phone manhole. If someone lets the pressure off somewhere
else on that lead to work on a cable...

On 2013-12-20, Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable) wrote:
On Fri, 06 Dec 2013 19:47:58 -0600, Ignoramus5722
wrote:

I have a strange sounding idea. I want to have an extra compressed air
tank in my system. I have a bunch of tanks at this moment to choose
from. This way, I could run air hungry tools like breakers, etc,
intermittently but longer.

So far, so good, and nothing complicated. I have a whole bunch of
tanks right now, and thought to do something nice for my shop and have
an extra tank.

Examples of tanks I have a

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp/Marengo/186.jpg
http://goo.gl/PdkzbM (Tank with "QT-15" lettering on left)

However, I also realize that with a big extra tank, it will take so
much longer for the air system to come up to pressure. This will be my
wasted money, as people will be waiting longer to use compressed air.

So, I thought, can I have a valve, that would not fill the tank, until
system pressure reached 120 PSI. And then it would shut off again if
the pressure ever falls to below 90 PSI.

Google Backpressure Regulator - Fisher makes them, and probably
others. Holds off flow till the feed side is above a minimum.

Thanks.I will check them out.

They have them in air braked trucks too for the secondary system
(wipers etc).

Interesting.

i

We used them at Ye Olde GTE so that the underground cables always had
~9 PSI on them even if someone opened the aerial to work on it, rather
than let the whole pipeline see a 'zero leak'.

Which is important if one of the manholes in the underground is full
of water and also has a tiny leak on a case, you want to maintain
pressure going out than have water coming in - if it's paper insulated
cable, just a few drops of water and you're in huge trouble.

Even with Plastic insulated cables it can be real bad - Call it in if
you ever see a flooded street with a little string of bubbles coming
out of the phone manhole. If someone lets the pressure off somewhere
else on that lead to work on a cable...

OK, I got this nice tank, I may try your suggstions with it.

240 gallon Sylvan tank:

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...id/13/lot/1984

On Fri, 20 Dec 2013 20:44:21 -0600, Ignoramus28970
wrote:

OK, I got this nice tank, I may try your suggstions with it.

240 gallon Sylvan tank:

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...id/13/lot/1984


24 gallon?

Looks like about an 80 gallon tank to me.

Not a bad screw compressor. I had to rebuild a pair of them last year.

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...d/13/lot/1982/


--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

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On 2013-12-21, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 20 Dec 2013 20:44:21 -0600, Ignoramus28970
wrote:

OK, I got this nice tank, I may try your suggstions with it.

240 gallon Sylvan tank:

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...id/13/lot/1984


24 gallon?

Looks like about an 80 gallon tank to me.

Look closer. Compare it to garbage cans next to it. The one on the
very right is a 44 gallon Brute cans.

I personally hope that it is a 240 gallon tank, but I will know when
we bring it in.

Not a bad screw compressor. I had to rebuild a pair of them last year.

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...d/13/lot/1982/

Buy you did not rebuild the air end itself, right?

i

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 16:36:22 -0600, Ignoramus24359
wrote:

On 2013-12-21, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 20 Dec 2013 20:44:21 -0600, Ignoramus28970
wrote:

OK, I got this nice tank, I may try your suggstions with it.

240 gallon Sylvan tank:

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...id/13/lot/1984


24 gallon?

Looks like about an 80 gallon tank to me.

Look closer. Compare it to garbage cans next to it. The one on the
very right is a 44 gallon Brute cans.

I personally hope that it is a 240 gallon tank, but I will know when
we bring it in.

Not a bad screw compressor. I had to rebuild a pair of them last year.

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...d/13/lot/1982/

Buy you did not rebuild the air end itself, right?

i
Yes..I rebuilt the air end. They are quite simple.

This is another one I rebuilt

https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...pressorRebuild

Gunner

--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

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On 2013-12-22, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 16:36:22 -0600, Ignoramus24359
wrote:

On 2013-12-21, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 20 Dec 2013 20:44:21 -0600, Ignoramus28970
wrote:

OK, I got this nice tank, I may try your suggstions with it.

240 gallon Sylvan tank:

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...id/13/lot/1984


24 gallon?

Looks like about an 80 gallon tank to me.

Look closer. Compare it to garbage cans next to it. The one on the
very right is a 44 gallon Brute cans.

I personally hope that it is a 240 gallon tank, but I will know when
we bring it in.

Not a bad screw compressor. I had to rebuild a pair of them last year.

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...d/13/lot/1982/

Buy you did not rebuild the air end itself, right?

i
Yes..I rebuilt the air end. They are quite simple.

This is another one I rebuilt

https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...pressorRebuild


Very nice. So, you buy a rebuild kit and change the old parts to new?

i

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 16:36:22 -0600, Ignoramus24359
wrote:

On 2013-12-21, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 20 Dec 2013 20:44:21 -0600, Ignoramus28970
wrote:

OK, I got this nice tank, I may try your suggstions with it.

240 gallon Sylvan tank:

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...id/13/lot/1984


24 gallon?

Looks like about an 80 gallon tank to me.

Look closer. Compare it to garbage cans next to it. The one on the
very right is a 44 gallon Brute cans.

I personally hope that it is a 240 gallon tank, but I will know when
we bring it in.

Not a bad screw compressor. I had to rebuild a pair of them last year.

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...d/13/lot/1982/

Buy you did not rebuild the air end itself, right?

WTF? What a strange question, Ig. Let's see, are you referring to
the air end which stores the air, or the air end which compresses the
air, or the air end which dispenses the air? The air is global, it's
ubiquitous in the tool, duuuude.

--
"Bother", said Pooh, as he chambered another round...

On 2013-12-22, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 16:36:22 -0600, Ignoramus24359
wrote:

On 2013-12-21, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 20 Dec 2013 20:44:21 -0600, Ignoramus28970
wrote:

OK, I got this nice tank, I may try your suggstions with it.

240 gallon Sylvan tank:

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...id/13/lot/1984


24 gallon?

Looks like about an 80 gallon tank to me.

Look closer. Compare it to garbage cans next to it. The one on the
very right is a 44 gallon Brute cans.

I personally hope that it is a 240 gallon tank, but I will know when
we bring it in.

Not a bad screw compressor. I had to rebuild a pair of them last year.

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...d/13/lot/1982/

Buy you did not rebuild the air end itself, right?

WTF? What a strange question, Ig. Let's see, are you referring to
the air end which stores the air, or the air end which compresses the
air, or the air end which dispenses the air? The air is global, it's
ubiquitous in the tool, duuuude.


The air end in a screw compressor is the pump, that contains two
counter-rotating screws.

i

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 20:28:29 -0600, Ignoramus24359
wrote:

On 2013-12-22, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 16:36:22 -0600, Ignoramus24359
wrote:

On 2013-12-21, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 20 Dec 2013 20:44:21 -0600, Ignoramus28970
wrote:

OK, I got this nice tank, I may try your suggstions with it.

240 gallon Sylvan tank:

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...id/13/lot/1984


24 gallon?

Looks like about an 80 gallon tank to me.

Look closer. Compare it to garbage cans next to it. The one on the
very right is a 44 gallon Brute cans.

I personally hope that it is a 240 gallon tank, but I will know when
we bring it in.

Not a bad screw compressor. I had to rebuild a pair of them last year.

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...d/13/lot/1982/

Buy you did not rebuild the air end itself, right?

i
Yes..I rebuilt the air end. They are quite simple.

This is another one I rebuilt

https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...pressorRebuild


Very nice. So, you buy a rebuild kit and change the old parts to new?

i

Generally I mike the parts and order what I need. Which is
seldom..seldom the rotors. Generally its bearings and seals and a
handful of O rings. Takes about 30 minutes to put the parts in and
seal it up. On the other hand..it can take 2 hours getting all the
**** off the heads and another 3 to put it back together. Lots of
peripheral stuff..and depending on the manufacture..wedged together
with a shoehorn and a crowbar.

The client bought that compressor from a neighbor for $300 cause " it
was making noise". He paid another $100 for seals and bearings and
paid me $500 to do the rebuild. The compressor shops wouldnt touch
the job for under $2600...plus shipping.... from Chicago. With a 3
week backlog.

It had 1 worn bearing in it..not really "bad"..but worn. So I replaced
all 5 bearings and tucked it all back together.

They were happy and they paid me before I left. That was 3 yrs ago. I
changed the oil last year along with the filters. Shrug

It runs 2 shifts a day, 5 days a week.
Sometimes an extra half day on Saturday.

Gunner

--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

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On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 19:17:22 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 16:36:22 -0600, Ignoramus24359
wrote:

On 2013-12-21, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 20 Dec 2013 20:44:21 -0600, Ignoramus28970
wrote:

OK, I got this nice tank, I may try your suggstions with it.

240 gallon Sylvan tank:

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...id/13/lot/1984


24 gallon?

Looks like about an 80 gallon tank to me.

Look closer. Compare it to garbage cans next to it. The one on the
very right is a 44 gallon Brute cans.

I personally hope that it is a 240 gallon tank, but I will know when
we bring it in.

Not a bad screw compressor. I had to rebuild a pair of them last year.

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...d/13/lot/1982/

Buy you did not rebuild the air end itself, right?

WTF? What a strange question, Ig. Let's see, are you referring to
the air end which stores the air, or the air end which compresses the
air, or the air end which dispenses the air? The air is global, it's
ubiquitous in the tool, duuuude.

He is talking about the actual head..the screw compressor itself.

Its commonly called the "air end" of the compressor..given the huge
amount of other **** attached to the unit. Oil strippers and whatnot.

That air is screwed (G) into the pressure end (Grin) while everything
is running in an oil mist..and then the oil is stripped out by
centrifical force in a stripper that leaves the air pretty much clean.
Which is why screw compressor oil is a special synthetic and costs
about $80 a gallon. (though I get it for $40)


--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

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On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 21:54:27 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 19:17:22 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 16:36:22 -0600, Ignoramus24359
wrote:

On 2013-12-21, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 20 Dec 2013 20:44:21 -0600, Ignoramus28970
wrote:

OK, I got this nice tank, I may try your suggstions with it.

240 gallon Sylvan tank:

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...id/13/lot/1984


24 gallon?

Looks like about an 80 gallon tank to me.

Look closer. Compare it to garbage cans next to it. The one on the
very right is a 44 gallon Brute cans.

I personally hope that it is a 240 gallon tank, but I will know when
we bring it in.

Not a bad screw compressor. I had to rebuild a pair of them last year.

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...d/13/lot/1982/

Buy you did not rebuild the air end itself, right?

WTF? What a strange question, Ig. Let's see, are you referring to
the air end which stores the air, or the air end which compresses the
air, or the air end which dispenses the air? The air is global, it's
ubiquitous in the tool, duuuude.

He is talking about the actual head..the screw compressor itself.

I figured that, but couldn't believe it, having just seen your pics on
the innards of said air end on your site. shrug


Its commonly called the "air end" of the compressor..given the huge
amount of other **** attached to the unit. Oil strippers and whatnot.

That air is screwed (G) into the pressure end (Grin) while everything
is running in an oil mist..and then the oil is stripped out by
centrifical force in a stripper that leaves the air pretty much clean.

You also answered my next question, thanks. I'll move on and see if
you answered my RPM question, too.


Which is why screw compressor oil is a special synthetic and costs
about $80 a gallon. (though I get it for $40)

Ouch!

--
"Bother", said Pooh, as he chambered another round...

On Sun, 22 Dec 2013 05:52:52 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 21:54:27 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 19:17:22 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 16:36:22 -0600, Ignoramus24359
wrote:

On 2013-12-21, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 20 Dec 2013 20:44:21 -0600, Ignoramus28970
wrote:

OK, I got this nice tank, I may try your suggstions with it.

240 gallon Sylvan tank:

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...id/13/lot/1984


24 gallon?

Looks like about an 80 gallon tank to me.

Look closer. Compare it to garbage cans next to it. The one on the
very right is a 44 gallon Brute cans.

I personally hope that it is a 240 gallon tank, but I will know when
we bring it in.

Not a bad screw compressor. I had to rebuild a pair of them last year.

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...d/13/lot/1982/

Buy you did not rebuild the air end itself, right?

WTF? What a strange question, Ig. Let's see, are you referring to
the air end which stores the air, or the air end which compresses the
air, or the air end which dispenses the air? The air is global, it's
ubiquitous in the tool, duuuude.

He is talking about the actual head..the screw compressor itself.

I figured that, but couldn't believe it, having just seen your pics on
the innards of said air end on your site. shrug

They just repurposed a Roots Blower for higher pressure. Simple, but
close tolerances.

Its commonly called the "air end" of the compressor..given the huge
amount of other **** attached to the unit. Oil strippers and whatnot.

That air is screwed (G) into the pressure end (Grin) while everything
is running in an oil mist..and then the oil is stripped out by
centrifical force in a stripper that leaves the air pretty much clean.

You also answered my next question, thanks. I'll move on and see if
you answered my RPM question, too.

Which is why screw compressor oil is a special synthetic and costs
about $80 a gallon. (though I get it for $40)

Ouch!

Hey, remember those close tolerances. You don't want it wearing out
quickly on you, you've got to use the right lubricant and keep it
clean as a whistle inside.

And as always, you have to learn where to buy things - Original
manufacturers tend to be cheaper than people buying it second - third
- fourth hand in a supply chain. And marking it up a little more each
time it changes hands.

Once you figure out the people that actually make it, and buy in the
proper quantities to get a price break, it gets reasonable.


-- Bruce --

On Sun, 22 Dec 2013 05:52:52 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 21:54:27 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 19:17:22 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 16:36:22 -0600, Ignoramus24359
wrote:

On 2013-12-21, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 20 Dec 2013 20:44:21 -0600, Ignoramus28970
wrote:

OK, I got this nice tank, I may try your suggstions with it.

240 gallon Sylvan tank:

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...id/13/lot/1984


24 gallon?

Looks like about an 80 gallon tank to me.

Look closer. Compare it to garbage cans next to it. The one on the
very right is a 44 gallon Brute cans.

I personally hope that it is a 240 gallon tank, but I will know when
we bring it in.

Not a bad screw compressor. I had to rebuild a pair of them last year.

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...d/13/lot/1982/

Buy you did not rebuild the air end itself, right?

WTF? What a strange question, Ig. Let's see, are you referring to
the air end which stores the air, or the air end which compresses the
air, or the air end which dispenses the air? The air is global, it's
ubiquitous in the tool, duuuude.

He is talking about the actual head..the screw compressor itself.

I figured that, but couldn't believe it, having just seen your pics on
the innards of said air end on your site. shrug


Its commonly called the "air end" of the compressor..given the huge
amount of other **** attached to the unit. Oil strippers and whatnot.

That air is screwed (G) into the pressure end (Grin) while everything
is running in an oil mist..and then the oil is stripped out by
centrifical force in a stripper that leaves the air pretty much clean.

You also answered my next question, thanks. I'll move on and see if
you answered my RPM question, too.


Which is why screw compressor oil is a special synthetic and costs
about $80 a gallon. (though I get it for $40)

Ouch!


Ayup..dat **** aint cheap, homey!!


--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

---
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http://www.avast.com

On Sun, 22 Dec 2013 13:11:07 -0800, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:

On Sun, 22 Dec 2013 05:52:52 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 21:54:27 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 19:17:22 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 16:36:22 -0600, Ignoramus24359
wrote:

On 2013-12-21, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 20 Dec 2013 20:44:21 -0600, Ignoramus28970
wrote:

OK, I got this nice tank, I may try your suggstions with it.

240 gallon Sylvan tank:

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...id/13/lot/1984


24 gallon?

Looks like about an 80 gallon tank to me.

Look closer. Compare it to garbage cans next to it. The one on the
very right is a 44 gallon Brute cans.

I personally hope that it is a 240 gallon tank, but I will know when
we bring it in.

Not a bad screw compressor. I had to rebuild a pair of them last year.

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...d/13/lot/1982/

Buy you did not rebuild the air end itself, right?

WTF? What a strange question, Ig. Let's see, are you referring to
the air end which stores the air, or the air end which compresses the
air, or the air end which dispenses the air? The air is global, it's
ubiquitous in the tool, duuuude.

He is talking about the actual head..the screw compressor itself.

I figured that, but couldn't believe it, having just seen your pics on
the innards of said air end on your site. shrug

They just repurposed a Roots Blower for higher pressure. Simple, but
close tolerances.

Its commonly called the "air end" of the compressor..given the huge
amount of other **** attached to the unit. Oil strippers and whatnot.

That air is screwed (G) into the pressure end (Grin) while everything
is running in an oil mist..and then the oil is stripped out by
centrifical force in a stripper that leaves the air pretty much clean.

You also answered my next question, thanks. I'll move on and see if
you answered my RPM question, too.

Which is why screw compressor oil is a special synthetic and costs
about $80 a gallon. (though I get it for $40)

Ouch!

Hey, remember those close tolerances. You don't want it wearing out
quickly on you, you've got to use the right lubricant and keep it
clean as a whistle inside.

And as always, you have to learn where to buy things - Original
manufacturers tend to be cheaper than people buying it second - third
- fourth hand in a supply chain. And marking it up a little more each
time it changes hands.

Once you figure out the people that actually make it, and buy in the
proper quantities to get a price break, it gets reasonable.


-- Bruce --

Ayup. Some of the canister filters on these compressors sell for
$80-120

Some I can replace with filters from the Autozone for $3.95.
Seriously...der be a beeg puking mark up from a lot of da "big names"


--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On Sun, 22 Dec 2013 13:11:07 -0800, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:

On Sun, 22 Dec 2013 05:52:52 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 21:54:27 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 19:17:22 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 16:36:22 -0600, Ignoramus24359
wrote:

On 2013-12-21, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 20 Dec 2013 20:44:21 -0600, Ignoramus28970
wrote:

OK, I got this nice tank, I may try your suggstions with it.

240 gallon Sylvan tank:

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...id/13/lot/1984


24 gallon?

Looks like about an 80 gallon tank to me.

Look closer. Compare it to garbage cans next to it. The one on the
very right is a 44 gallon Brute cans.

I personally hope that it is a 240 gallon tank, but I will know when
we bring it in.

Not a bad screw compressor. I had to rebuild a pair of them last year.

http://gagp.auctionhq.net/view-aucti...d/13/lot/1982/

Buy you did not rebuild the air end itself, right?

WTF? What a strange question, Ig. Let's see, are you referring to
the air end which stores the air, or the air end which compresses the
air, or the air end which dispenses the air? The air is global, it's
ubiquitous in the tool, duuuude.

He is talking about the actual head..the screw compressor itself.

I figured that, but couldn't believe it, having just seen your pics on
the innards of said air end on your site. shrug

They just repurposed a Roots Blower for higher pressure. Simple, but
close tolerances.

Its commonly called the "air end" of the compressor..given the huge
amount of other **** attached to the unit. Oil strippers and whatnot.

That air is screwed (G) into the pressure end (Grin) while everything
is running in an oil mist..and then the oil is stripped out by
centrifical force in a stripper that leaves the air pretty much clean.

You also answered my next question, thanks. I'll move on and see if
you answered my RPM question, too.

Which is why screw compressor oil is a special synthetic and costs
about $80 a gallon. (though I get it for $40)

Ouch!

Hey, remember those close tolerances. You don't want it wearing out
quickly on you, you've got to use the right lubricant and keep it
clean as a whistle inside.

The proper grade of bearings is essential, too.


And as always, you have to learn where to buy things - Original
manufacturers tend to be cheaper than people buying it second - third
- fourth hand in a supply chain. And marking it up a little more each
time it changes hands.

Absolutely. I've heard that a barrel of crude oil is sold an average
of 100 times before it gets to the refinery. Talk about @#$%^&*
middlemen...


Once you figure out the people that actually make it, and buy in the
proper quantities to get a price break, it gets reasonable.

Well, maybe _more_ reasonable.

--
"Bother", said Pooh, as he chambered another round...

Gunner Asch on Sun, 22 Dec 2013 13:55:06 -0800
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

Its commonly called the "air end" of the compressor..given the huge
amount of other **** attached to the unit. Oil strippers and whatnot.

That air is screwed (G) into the pressure end (Grin) while everything
is running in an oil mist..and then the oil is stripped out by
centrifical force in a stripper that leaves the air pretty much clean.

You also answered my next question, thanks. I'll move on and see if
you answered my RPM question, too.


Which is why screw compressor oil is a special synthetic and costs
about $80 a gallon. (though I get it for $40)

Ouch!


Ayup..dat **** aint cheap, homey!!

Ain't it the truth - if something is labled "Marine" "aviation" or
some other indication of Specialty, it costs twice as much just to
look it up.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."