I've just seen one of these Fluidmasters in action, and was impressed.

How tricky is it for a handyman non-professional to replace a
conventional floating-ball filler valve with one of these?

Is it as simple as unscrew old, screw on new?!
--
/\/\aurice
(Retired in Surrey, UK)

On 10/02/2012 16:50, Maurice Batey wrote:
I've just seen one of these Fluidmasters in action, and was impressed.

How tricky is it for a handyman non-professional to replace a
conventional floating-ball filler valve with one of these?

Is it as simple as unscrew old, screw on new?!

Depends if the old one side entry or bottom entry?

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Fri, 10 Feb 2012 17:51:07 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:

Depends if the old one side entry or bottom entry?

Assuming bottom entry; that's what that model is for.

--
/\/\aurice

On Fri, 10 Feb 2012 16:50:55 +0000, I wrote:

one of these Fluidmasters

See e.g.:

http://tinyurl.com/6t3t6w3

--
/\/\aurice

On Feb 10, 4:50*pm, Maurice Batey wrote:
I've just seen one of these Fluidmasters in action, and was impressed.

How tricky is it for a handyman non-professional to replace a
conventional floating-ball filler valve with one of these?

Is it as simple as unscrew old, screw on new?!
--
/\/\aurice
* * * * (Retired in Surrey, UK)


Well don't be impressed.
Replacing your float valve with any of these unreliable gadets is a
stupid idea.
The float valve is cheap and reliable.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Save your money.

On Feb 11, 7:28*am, harry wrote:
On Feb 10, 4:50*pm, Maurice Batey wrote:

I've just seen one of these Fluidmasters in action, and was impressed.

How tricky is it for a handyman non-professional to replace a
conventional floating-ball filler valve with one of these?

Is it as simple as unscrew old, screw on new?!
--
/\/\aurice
* * * * (Retired in Surrey, UK)

Well don't be impressed.
Replacing your float valve with any of these unreliable gadets is a
stupid idea.
The float valve is cheap and reliable.
*If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Save your money.

Typical Harry response

I've had one in for a year along with their flush mechanism and it is
excellent. The syphon system failed on mine and I needed a new one -
went for the Fluidmaster flush system which is so stupidly simple that
I don't know why we persist in this country with the syphon type
mechanism. The operation is incredibly light and allows a long or
short flush depending on how long you hold the handle down.

I also fitted the valve mechanism. The only problem I faced was that
the cistern is a narrow one and I had to juggle things a little to get
the float to come up properly and not foul the lever mechanism.

Go for it.

Rob

On 10/02/2012 20:01, Maurice Batey wrote:
On Fri, 10 Feb 2012 17:51:07 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:

Depends if the old one side entry or bottom entry?

Assuming bottom entry; that's what that model is for.

Sorry, there was a clue in the title I overlooked :-)

OK, water off, flush & drain cistern.

Undo the tap connector which joins the supply pipe to the plastic thread
on the valve.

If possible/easy, cut away a section of pipe & use a flexible tap
connector;
http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-t...-x-300mm/13143

If not, renew the fibre washer in the old tap connector.

Undo the plastic nut holding the fill valve & remove. Clean out any
****e in the bottom of the tank.

Insert new valve, rubber washer inside, cone down & fit plastic nut, but
don't do up tight just yet. Make sure no moving parts catch on the
cistern sides.

Screw the tap connector onto the plastic thread - make absolutely sure
it doesn't cross thread - thats why you haven't done the plastic nut up
fully, it gives a bit of play to make sure things are straight.

Now do up the plastic nut & tap connector hand tight, then nip them up
with half a turn with a spanner.

Turn on water, check for leaks, adjust water level.

Robert is your fathers brother.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Maurice Batey wrote:

I've just seen one of these Fluidmasters in action, and was impressed.

Any reason why you're inflicting a Japanese character set on everyone?

In article ,
The Medway Handyman writes:
On 10/02/2012 20:01, Maurice Batey wrote:
On Fri, 10 Feb 2012 17:51:07 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:

Depends if the old one side entry or bottom entry?

Assuming bottom entry; that's what that model is for.

Sorry, there was a clue in the title I overlooked :-)

OK, water off, flush & drain cistern.

Undo the tap connector which joins the supply pipe to the plastic thread
on the valve.

If possible/easy, cut away a section of pipe & use a flexible tap
connector;
http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-t...-x-300mm/13143

If not, renew the fibre washer in the old tap connector.

Undo the plastic nut holding the fill valve & remove. Clean out any
****e in the bottom of the tank.

Insert new valve, rubber washer inside, cone down & fit plastic nut, but
don't do up tight just yet. Make sure no moving parts catch on the
cistern sides.

Screw the tap connector onto the plastic thread - make absolutely sure
it doesn't cross thread - thats why you haven't done the plastic nut up
fully, it gives a bit of play to make sure things are straight.

Now do up the plastic nut & tap connector hand tight, then nip them up
with half a turn with a spanner.

Turn on water, check for leaks, adjust water level.

I would add here...
Unclip the valve (with the diaphram) from the top, hold a mug over
the outlet to direct the fountain back into the cistern, and turn
on the water for 5-10 seconds. This will flush out any debris in
the pipe, which will otherwise be washed into the valve the first
time you use it, preventing it shutting off, because the higher
flow rate is likely to dislodge debris which has been settled in
the pipe for years.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Feb 11, 8:55*am, robgraham wrote:
On Feb 11, 7:28*am, harry wrote:





On Feb 10, 4:50*pm, Maurice Batey wrote:

I've just seen one of these Fluidmasters in action, and was impressed..

How tricky is it for a handyman non-professional to replace a
conventional floating-ball filler valve with one of these?

Is it as simple as unscrew old, screw on new?!
--
/\/\aurice
* * * * (Retired in Surrey, UK)

Well don't be impressed.
Replacing your float valve with any of these unreliable gadets is a
stupid idea.
The float valve is cheap and reliable.
*If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Save your money.

Typical Harry response

I've had one in for a year along with their flush mechanism and it is
excellent. *The syphon system failed on mine and I needed a new one -
went for the Fluidmaster flush system which is so stupidly simple that
I don't know why we persist in this country with the syphon type
mechanism. *The operation is incredibly light and allows a long or
short flush depending on how long you hold the handle down.

I also fitted the valve mechanism. *The only problem I faced was that
the cistern is a narrow one and I had to juggle things a little to get
the float to come up properly and not foul the lever mechanism.

Go for it.

Rob- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


The advantage of the syphon is obvious. It fails safe. ie not losing
water.
All these other stupid gadgets often fail open.
Bad news if you have a water meter.

On Fri, 10 Feb 2012 23:28:58 -0800, harry wrote:

The float valve is cheap and reliable.

Many years ago I had all the float valve fillers in the house
replaced by the cheap Torbeck gadgets.
They worked faithfully for many years.

--
/\/\aurice

On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 11:53:52 +0000, Andy Burns wrote:

Any reason why you're inflicting a Japanese character set on everyone?

You mean UTF-8, used by a large part of the Linux community?

Ironically, I had recently changed to UTF-8 after someone else (in the
gmane Thunderbird newsgroup) said his newsreader had a problem with the
ISO-08859-1 I was using, and subsequently agreed that the change to
UTF-8 was better for him!

--
/\/\aurice

Thank you muchly, sir!
Just one thing puzzles me:

On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 11:42:27 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:

If possible/easy, cut away a section of pipe & use a flexible tap
connector;
If not, renew the fibre washer in the old tap connector.

When you say 'cut away a section of pipe', I assume you mean the supply
pipe that enters the tank, so that the connection of the Fluidmaster
can be close to the bottom of the tank.
But the new gadget needs to be solidly connected to the input
pipe, not on a flexible mount, surely?

(I had assumed the web site was going to show an adaptor for fitting on
the end of the shortened input pipe to provide a threaded connection to
the gadget.)

--
/\/\aurice

Maurice Batey wrote:
On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 11:53:52 +0000, Andy Burns wrote:

Any reason why you're inflicting a Japanese character set on everyone?

You mean UTF-8, used by a large part of the Linux community?


This post has:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-2022-jp

You may want to check your settings.

Mike

On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 13:57:19 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

Unclip the valve (with the diaphram) from the top, hold a mug over
the outlet to direct the fountain back into the cistern, and turn
on the water for 5-10 seconds. This will flush out any debris in
the pipe,

Do you mean the *old* valve, before it's removed?

--
/\/\aurice

In article ,
Maurice Batey writes:
On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 13:57:19 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

Unclip the valve (with the diaphram) from the top, hold a mug over
the outlet to direct the fountain back into the cistern, and turn
on the water for 5-10 seconds. This will flush out any debris in
the pipe,

Do you mean the *old* valve, before it's removed?

I meant the new one.

You could do it with the old one instead if you can remove its guts
so it lets a full flow through. The object is to flush any debris
out of the supply pipework, so it doesn't get stuck in the
Fluidmaster's diaphram.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article ,
Maurice Batey writes:
On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 11:53:52 +0000, Andy Burns wrote:

Any reason why you're inflicting a Japanese character set on everyone?

You mean UTF-8, used by a large part of the Linux community?

Ironically, I had recently changed to UTF-8 after someone else (in the
gmane Thunderbird newsgroup) said his newsreader had a problem with the
ISO-08859-1 I was using, and subsequently agreed that the change to
UTF-8 was better for him!

You're not using UTF-8.
You're using a character set which few Western Europe systems are
likely to have bothered to install, 'iso-2022-jp'.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 11/02/2012 17:14, Maurice Batey wrote:
Thank you muchly, sir!
Just one thing puzzles me:

On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 11:42:27 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:

If possible/easy, cut away a section of pipe& use a flexible tap
connector;
If not, renew the fibre washer in the old tap connector.

When you say 'cut away a section of pipe', I assume you mean the supply
pipe that enters the tank, so that the connection of the Fluidmaster
can be close to the bottom of the tank.

No. At present I assume the fill valve is connected via rigid copper
pipe? The connection is outside the tank.

You can just reconnect the new fill valve to that, once it id in place.

However, its much easier to use a flexible connector, in which case you
would need to cut a piece of the copper pipe away.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 17:53:14 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

You're not using UTF-8.

Well, according to my newsreader (Pan1), if I look at its Group
Properties settings for this newsgroup, it says:

"Default char set: UTF-8"

You're using a character set which few Western Europe systems are
likely to have bothered to install, 'iso-2022-jp'.

Totally flabbergasting! Will investigate...

(Anyone else having problems with the code page used in my postings?)

--
/\/\aurice

On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 17:53:14 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

You're not using UTF-8.

Does this look better, Andrew?!

--
/\/\aurice

On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 20:58:40 +0000, Maurice Batey wrote:

On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 17:53:14 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

You're not using UTF-8.

Does this look better, Andrew?!

PMFJI.... yes.

--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

Maurice Batey wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

Any reason why you're inflicting a Japanese character set on everyone?

You mean UTF-8, used by a large part of the Linux community?

No, I mean ISO-2022-JP which is what you appear to be using ...

Reply-To:
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-2022-jp
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Maurice Batey wrote:

On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 17:53:14 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

You're not using UTF-8.

Does this look better, Andrew?!

yep :-)

On 11/02/2012 20:58, Maurice Batey wrote:
On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 17:53:14 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

You're not using UTF-8.

Does this look better, Andrew?!

Much!

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Maurice Batey wrote:
On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 17:53:14 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

You're not using UTF-8.

Well, according to my newsreader (Pan1), if I look at its Group
Properties settings for this newsgroup, it says:

"Default char set: UTF-8"

You're using a character set which few Western Europe systems are
likely to have bothered to install, 'iso-2022-jp'.

Totally flabbergasting! Will investigate...

(Anyone else having problems with the code page used in my postings?)

No, nut its definitely that charset, and your text is not text.. well it
apperas in a totally different FONT

Oh and you are claiming the NNTP posting host as an organisation, and
sticking up a valid email address..

Path: news.albasani.net!.POSTED!not-for-mail
***From: Maurice Batey
Newsgroups: uk.d-i-y
Subject: WC tank filler mechanism: Fluidmaster Pro Bottom Entry Fill
Valve
Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2012 19:21:00 +0000
*** Organization: albasani.net
Lines: 19
Message-ID:
References:


***Reply-To:
Mime-Version: 1.0
***Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-2022-jp
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X-Trace: news.albasani.net
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NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2012 19:21:01 +0000 (UTC)
Injection-Info: news.albasani.net;
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***User-Agent: Pan/0.14.2.91 (As She Crawled Across the Table)
Cancel-Lock: sha1:nRpuBq0gfEMb3tKddkubsSH8JgU=

On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 17:53:14 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

You're not using UTF-8.

Well, according to my newsreader (Pan1), if I look at its Group
Properties settings for this newsgroup, it says:

"Default char set: UTF-8"

You're using a character set which few Western Europe systems are
likely to have bothered to install, 'iso-2022-jp'.

Totally flabbergasting! Will investigate...

(Anyone else having problems with the code page used in my postings?)

--
/\/\aurice

Maurice Batey wrote:
On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 17:53:14 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

You're not using UTF-8.

Does this look better, Andrew?!

Path: news.albasani.net!.POSTED!not-for-mail
From: Maurice Batey
Newsgroups: uk.d-i-y
Subject: WC tank filler mechanism: Fluidmaster Pro Bottom Entry Fill
Valve
Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2012 20:58:40 +0000
Organization: albasani.net
Lines: 9
Message-ID:
References:


Reply-To:
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
X-Trace: news.albasani.net
MescY+z8HhfN8UtSAwBTuSJHqGVBBK+JyvgpkhQxZnJluDKbj8 o4cjWX0JolwP5equGLSVlojE5+BuKKNSR8ls+h4gBxT3zxt73j UyFRB3+JxJDdR3XDRR+SVqNuyIK1
NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2012 20:58:40 +0000 (UTC)
Injection-Info: news.albasani.net;
logging-data="/RZSZaFjmq8lMA7Eqi9KJaOq3mVKkUrhD+Zr9NngPRDutIOOcXu Rp/Iz9xeBwGXjhCkjMVTPaXrqd7QEI1oc0KdljGcLanHtbWD7aiu6 EpMR4AHFT4NSeil1jgrY4F5d";
"
User-Agent: Pan/0.14.2.91 (As She Crawled Across the Table)
Cancel-Lock: sha1:Jl0blC1qTomfEk8C+9o6x7nz5AU=

On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 17:53:14 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

You're not using UTF-8.

Does this look better, Andrew?!

--
/\/\aurice

Andy Burns wrote:
Maurice Batey wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

Any reason why you're inflicting a Japanese character set on everyone?
You mean UTF-8, used by a large part of the Linux community?

No, I mean ISO-2022-JP which is what you appear to be using ...

Reply-To:
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-2022-jp
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

As does your reply

Path:
news.albasani.net!feeder.erje.net!border3.nntp.ams .giganews.com!Xl.tags.giganews.com!border1.nntp.am s.giganews.com!nntp.giganews.com!local2.nntp.ams.g iganews.com!nntp.brightview.co.uk!news.brightview. co.uk.POSTED!not-for-mail
NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2012 19:03:25 -0600
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2012 01:03:30 +0000
From: Andy Burns
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:10.0) Gecko/20120129
Thunderbird/10.0
MIME-Version: 1.0
Newsgroups: uk.d-i-y
Subject: WC tank filler mechanism: Fluidmaster Pro Bottom Entry Fill
Valve
References:


In-Reply-To:
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X-Abuse-and-DMCA-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your
complaint properly
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Maurice Batey wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

Any reason why you're inflicting a Japanese character set on everyone?

You mean UTF-8, used by a large part of the Linux community?

No, I mean ISO-2022-JP which is what you appear to be using ...

Reply-To:
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-2022-jp
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

"Mike Humphrey" wrote in message
...
Maurice Batey wrote:
On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 11:53:52 +0000, Andy Burns wrote:

Any reason why you're inflicting a Japanese character set on everyone?

You mean UTF-8, used by a large part of the Linux community?


This post has:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-2022-jp

You may want to check your settings.


I presume the message is coming up as intended here because Windows Mail
defaults to a standard character set if it doesn't have the correct one.
And doesn't tell you.

--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:
Maurice Batey wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:

Any reason why you're inflicting a Japanese character set on everyone?
You mean UTF-8, used by a large part of the Linux community?

No, I mean ISO-2022-JP which is what you appear to be using ...

As does your reply

Yes, that's why I mentioned it, thunderbird (along with several other
newsreaders) takes the source charset into account when composing a
reply and defaults to the same charset.

On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 17:53:14 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

You're not using UTF-8.

Well, yes and no (see below)...

You're using a character set which few Western Europe systems are
likely to have bothered to install, 'iso-2022-jp'.

You were so right!

Although for composing messages to post, I almost never use the
newsreader's Composer - preferring the full-blown Linux editor Kwrite
(whch *is* configured to use UTF-8) - I occasionally (for short
postings) use the newsreader's Composer, and it was with the code
settings here that things had gone awry, because the code set had
somehow - in the last few days - got set to that 'iso-2022-jp'!
How that happened I do not know. It was not a conscious act on my
part, as I had never heard of that code set, and had also forgotten
the existence of the Composer option to change it.

So, thank you, Andrew, for putting your hand up and thus allowing me to
correct this bizarre screw up...
--
/\/\aurice

On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 21:07:22 +0000, Bob Eager wrote:

PMFJI.... yes.

Thanks, Les - and I learned a new acronym. :-)

--
/\/\aurice

On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 18:06:15 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:

At present I assume the fill valve is connected via rigid copper
pipe? The connection is outside the tank.

Under the tank is a short copper pipe projecting through the bottom of
the tank.
(When I say short, I mean there is only a gap of around 2" between
tank and bulkhead. Can 't get hand in...)

You can just reconnect the new fill valve to that, once it id in
place.

Inside the tank presumably, but the problem there is that the pipe
coming through from underneath projects some unches into the tank,
whereas I believe the Fluidmaster needs to be fitted at the bottom of
the tank.
So the problem that would arise for me is how to shorten that entry
pipe and provide a thread for the Fluidmaster to screw onto.

However, its much easier to use a flexible connector,

That's the bit I don't undertstand. Surely the Fluidmaster can't be
mounted on the end of a flexible pipe?
Did you mean perhaps a flexible pipe from the outside, terminating
just inside the tank?

--
/\/\aurice

On 12/02/2012 13:55, Maurice Batey wrote:
On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 18:06:15 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:

At present I assume the fill valve is connected via rigid copper
pipe? The connection is outside the tank.

Under the tank is a short copper pipe projecting through the bottom of
the tank.
(When I say short, I mean there is only a gap of around 2" between
tank and bulkhead. Can 't get hand in...)

You can just reconnect the new fill valve to that, once it id in
place.

Inside the tank presumably, but the problem there is that the pipe
coming through from underneath projects some unches into the tank,
whereas I believe the Fluidmaster needs to be fitted at the bottom of
the tank.
So the problem that would arise for me is how to shorten that entry
pipe and provide a thread for the Fluidmaster to screw onto.


I think we need a photo.....

None of this makes sense.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Sun, 12 Feb 2012 09:51:31 +0000, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

sticking up a valid email address.

Yikes - thanks for pointing that out!

(One has to use real adcdress when posting to Gmane, and hit the wrong
button...)

--
/\/\aurice
(Replace "nomail.afraid" by "bcs" to reply by email)

On Sun, 12 Feb 2012 14:08:19 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:

I think we need a photo.....

OK - here they a

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10969499/inside-tank-1.JPG

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10969499/inside-tank-2.JPG

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10969499/under-tank.JPG

All 3 are of the potential to-be-converted WC tank.

N.B. My earlier reference to 'little room under tank' refers to the WC
tank that has already been converted. The above tank has more room
underneath, as can be seen.

--
/\/\aurice
(Replace "nomail.afraid" by "bcs" to reply by email)

Maurice Batey wrote:

That's the bit I don't undertstand. Surely the Fluidmaster can't be
mounted on the end of a flexible pipe?
Did you mean perhaps a flexible pipe from the outside, terminating
just inside the tank?


The valve isn't usually "mounted" on any pipe, but supported by the
cistern. There is a hole in the bottom of the cistern (once the old
valve is removed). The new valve drops into this hole, then a nut goes
onto the bottom end and tightens against the base of the cistern. The
valve is now fixed in place, and the cistern watertight, but no water
supply is connected.
Then a tap connector goes onto the bottom of the valve. If the old
valve had a tap connector on the end of rigid pipe, it will only fit
if the new valve is exactly the same length. If not, the easiest way
to deal with it is to cut off the tap connector and a bit of the supply
pipe, then attach a flexible tap connector.

Mike

Maurice Batey wrote:
On Sun, 12 Feb 2012 14:08:19 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:

I think we need a photo.....
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10969499/inside-tank-1.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10969499/inside-tank-2.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10969499/under-tank.JPG
All 3 are of the potential to-be-converted WC tank.

That looks pretty standard. So, you need to turn off the water (I don't
see an isolating valve, so you may have to turn off the mains supply)
and empty the cistern. Unscrew the tap connector (the nut that screws
the copper pipe to the plastic base of the valve) and the pipe will be
disconnected. Undo the plastic nut that holds the valve to the cistern
base, and the old valve should lift out. Drop the new one in its place
and do up the plastic nut. At this point I would try pouring some water
into the cistern to make sure it's watertight before going any further.

Then you need to conenct the water. You have three options:
1) Use the tap connector that's already there - but you should really
replace the washer. This will work if the new valve is the same length
as the old one, but if not then the connector may not reach.

2) Alter the pipework to make the connector reach. A lot of effort
compared to option 3.

3) Use a flexible connector. You need to cut the water pipe to the left
of the elbow, at a point where the flexible connector will reach the
valve in a smooth curve without any kinks. Clean the paint off and
attach the flexible connector to the pipe (with a compression joint),
then screw the other end onto the valve.
You may want to add an isolating valve if there isn't one already. You
can get flexible tap connectors with screwdriver-operated valves built
in, but these tend to stop working after a while - I would use a
separate lever valve.

Mike

On Sun, 12 Feb 2012 12:05:01 -0600, Mike Humphrey wrote:

the old valve should lift out. Drop the new one in its place
and do up the plastic nut.

Then you need to conenct the water.

That's what's puzzling me.
I had assumed tnat when the new valve has been fixed in place, it is at
that point connected to the water supply that had been feeding the old
valve!

Looks as though I shall have to leave this for the plumber...
--
/\/\aurice
(Replace "nomail.afraid" by "bcs" to reply by email)

On Sun, 12 Feb 2012 11:43:33 -0600, Mike Humphrey wrote:

The new valve drops into this hole, then a nut goes
onto the bottom end and tightens against the base of the cistern. The
valve is now fixed in place,
...
Then a tap connector goes onto the bottom of the valve.

But if the new valve is now fixed in place at the bottom of the tank
(at the point where the mains feed comes in) , how does one then put a
connector onto the bottom of it?

I think I'm going to have to buy another valve so I can get take a
good look at the mechanism's layout...

--
/\/\aurice
(Replace "nomail.afraid" by "bcs" to reply by email)

On Feb 12, 6:55*pm, Maurice Batey wrote:
On Sun, 12 Feb 2012 11:43:33 -0600, Mike Humphrey wrote:
The new valve drops into this hole, then a nut goes
onto the bottom end and tightens against the base of the cistern. The
valve is now fixed in place,
...
Then a tap connector goes onto the bottom of the valve.

But if the new valve is now fixed in place at the bottom of the tank
(at the point where the mains feed comes in) , how does one then put a
connector onto the bottom of it?

I think I'm going to have to buy another valve so I can get take a
good look at the mechanism's layout...



Best left alone if it's working.
Perfectly standard setup. FFS. It's only for flushing the **** away.
How high tech doyou want to get?