Hello,

I am trying to replace the the works in my toilet tank using the
Fluidmaster 404LG repair kit. Everything was going great. Then I
got to the point where you flush water through the uncapped fill
valve and check for leaks. All went fine, no leaks and water was
definitely flowing through the fill value and into the bowl. So, I
turned off the water and placed the valve cap assembly back on the
fill valve and locked it into position by turning it clockwise an
eighth of a turn. I turned the water back on, but it was stopped at
the fill valve--when the cap is on the fill valve it does not let any
water flow into the tank. So, something is wrong with how I put the
cap back on, or perhaps I jostled some part of the valve? I have
tried and re-tried several times and can not get water to come out of
the capped valve. Before I call a plumber, does anyone have any
advice?

Thanks,
Dawn

Dawn wrote:

I am trying to replace the the works in my toilet tank using the
Fluidmaster 404LG repair kit. Everything was going great. Then I
got to the point where you flush water through the uncapped fill
valve and check for leaks. All went fine, no leaks and water was
definitely flowing through the fill value and into the bowl. So, I
turned off the water and placed the valve cap assembly back on the
fill valve and locked it into position by turning it clockwise an
eighth of a turn. I turned the water back on, but it was stopped at
the fill valve--when the cap is on the fill valve it does not let any
water flow into the tank. So, something is wrong with how I put the
cap back on, or perhaps I jostled some part of the valve? I have
tried and re-tried several times and can not get water to come out of
the capped valve. Before I call a plumber, does anyone have any
advice?

There are some YouTube videos about Fluidmaster valves.

When you remove the cap and turn on the water valve, there should be a
strong stream of water out of the Fluidmaster body (keep hand over it
so it won't spray the ceiling). If not, the water line is clogged,
maybe by the rubber seal at the bottom of the toilet tank where it
goes into the Fluidmaster body. Also when you manually move the arm
with the cap removed, do you see the stainless steel pin move in and
out the tiny hole in the middle of the rubber plug?

It's going to be cheaper to buy a second Fluidmaster valve than to
call a plumber.

"larry moe 'n curly" wrote in message
...


Dawn wrote:

I am trying to replace the the works in my toilet tank using the
Fluidmaster 404LG repair kit. Everything was going great. Then I
got to the point where you flush water through the uncapped fill
valve and check for leaks. All went fine, no leaks and water was
definitely flowing through the fill value and into the bowl. So, I
turned off the water and placed the valve cap assembly back on the
fill valve and locked it into position by turning it clockwise an
eighth of a turn. I turned the water back on, but it was stopped at
the fill valve--when the cap is on the fill valve it does not let any
water flow into the tank. So, something is wrong with how I put the
cap back on, or perhaps I jostled some part of the valve? I have
tried and re-tried several times and can not get water to come out of
the capped valve. Before I call a plumber, does anyone have any
advice?

There are some YouTube videos about Fluidmaster valves.

When you remove the cap and turn on the water valve, there should be a
strong stream of water out of the Fluidmaster body (keep hand over it
so it won't spray the ceiling). If not, the water line is clogged,
maybe by the rubber seal at the bottom of the toilet tank where it
goes into the Fluidmaster body. Also when you manually move the arm
with the cap removed, do you see the stainless steel pin move in and
out the tiny hole in the middle of the rubber plug?

It's going to be cheaper to buy a second Fluidmaster valve than to
call a plumber.



I suppose it's also possible to call the manufacturer.

Never mind. That's crazy talk.

On Sep 26, 3:54*pm, "larry moe 'n curly"
wrote:


It's going to be cheaper to buy a second Fluidmaster valve than to
call a plumber.

Only if you're foolish enough to buy Fluidmaster.

I had one break while I was out of town and 10,000 gallons of water
flooded my house. I later talked to several plumbers and every one
said that Fluidmaster problems keep them in business.
They won't be in my house again. YMMV.

KC

On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 12:04:10 -0700 (PDT), KC
wrote:

On Sep 26, 3:54*pm, "larry moe 'n curly"
wrote:


It's going to be cheaper to buy a second Fluidmaster valve than to
call a plumber.

Only if you're foolish enough to buy Fluidmaster.

I had one break while I was out of town and 10,000 gallons of water
flooded my house. I later talked to several plumbers and every one
said that Fluidmaster problems keep them in business.
They won't be in my house again. YMMV.

KC

What brand of flush valve do you use?

I've replaced, perhaps 8-10 flush valves over the years with the
Fluidmaster brand. None have ever failed, that caused a leak like you
mention.

Oren wrote:
....

I've replaced, perhaps 8-10 flush valves over the years with the
Fluidmaster brand. None have ever failed, that caused a leak like you
mention.

Only place I've ever seen them fail is in locations w/ high water
pressure -- that will eventually fatigue them and the will break at the
tank inlet.

But, shouldn't have excessive water pressure, anyway...

--

On Sep 26, 12:12*pm, Dawn wrote:
Hello,

I am trying to replace the the works in my toilet tank using the
Fluidmaster 404LG repair kit. *Everything was going great. *Then I
got *to the point where you flush water through the uncapped fill
valve and check for leaks. *All went fine, no leaks and water was
definitely flowing *through the fill value and into the bowl. *So, I
turned off the water and placed the valve cap assembly back on the
fill valve and locked it into position by turning it clockwise an
eighth of a turn. *I turned the water back on, but it was stopped at
the fill valve--when the cap is on the fill valve it does not let any
water flow into the tank. * So, something is wrong with how I put the
cap back on, or perhaps I jostled some part of the valve? *I have
tried and re-tried several times and can not get water to come out of
the capped valve. *Before I call a plumber, does anyone have any
advice?

Thanks,
Dawn

Hi Dawn,

Try releasing the float lock called the Leak Guard. This lock keeps
the float cup from falling will is what turns on the water. The Leak
Guard should be hooked to the tank lever so when you flush the toilet
it unlocks the float and allows the toilet to fill. For more help call
1-800-631-2011 and speak to a Tech.

FM Tech

On Wed, 29 Sep 2010 00:22:56 -0500, jw wrote:


[snip

Spend twice the amount and buy a
brass one that will last 5 times as long. Cheap plastic plumbing parts
are junk, and you'll be replacing them every few years, as well as being
a source of a flood. Every plumbing item in my house is metal. Copper
pipes, brass valves, fill valve, supply pipes, etc. The only plastic is
the PVC drain pipes, which are not under pressure and work fine.

I've had several plastic shower heads (even one with a light). They fail
in a few months. I now have a metal one that's lasted for years. It cost
less than one of those plastic ons, too.

--
87 days until The winter celebration (Saturday December 25, 2010
12:00:00 AM).

Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"I have only a small flickering light to guide me in the darkness of a
thick forest. Up comes a theologian and blows it out." -- Denis Diderot