"Wilfred Xavier Pickles" wrote in message
...

I got an American Std. toilet from the 1950's. Fluidmaster fill-valve was
installed
maybe 10 years ago.

Tanks fills OK, but it seeps a little after fill-up. I push the float down
a
little and it stops. Let go and it seeps again, constantly running a
little
water into the overflow tube.

I tried adjustments, didn't seem to help.

Valve is shot, needs to be replace. Eh? I wouldn't even post query if it
didn't stop seeping when float is depressed. Never saw the guts of one of
these.

Thx,
Will

It needs a 50 cent part, maybe a dollar at the BORG. The same part fits them
all so no matter which model you are good to go.

Here is a random site from Google search showing the part:
https://www.hardwareworld.com/Ballco...t-pW3ATQB.aspx

No tools required to replace the part.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

"Wilfred Xavier Pickles" wrote in message
...

I got an American Std. toilet from the 1950's. Fluidmaster fill-valve was
installed
maybe 10 years ago.

Tanks fills OK, but it seeps a little after fill-up. I push the float down
a
little and it stops. Let go and it seeps again, constantly running a
little
water into the overflow tube.

I tried adjustments, didn't seem to help.

Valve is shot, needs to be replace. Eh? I wouldn't even post query if it
didn't stop seeping when float is depressed. Never saw the guts of one of
these.

Thx,
Will

Ace Hardware has the washer for this. Had to replace ours several times
since we have such hard water that destroys anything on the water system. WW

On Nov 8, 3:10*am, Wilfred Xavier Pickles
wrote:
I got an American Std. toilet from the 1950's. Fluidmaster fill-valve was installed
maybe 10 years ago.

Tanks fills OK, but it seeps a little after fill-up. I push the float down a
little and it stops. Let go and it seeps again, constantly running a little
water into the overflow tube.

I tried adjustments, didn't seem to help.

Valve is shot, needs to be replace. Eh? I wouldn't even post query if it
didn't stop seeping when float is depressed. Never saw the guts of one of
these.

* Thx,
* Will

I don't understand seepage stopping when float is down, that normally
turns on the water to fill the tank.

On 11/8/2010 3:10 AM, Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:

I got an American Std. toilet from the 1950's. Fluidmaster fill-valve was installed
maybe 10 years ago.

Tanks fills OK, but it seeps a little after fill-up. I push the float down a
little and it stops. Let go and it seeps again, constantly running a little
water into the overflow tube.

I tried adjustments, didn't seem to help.

Valve is shot, needs to be replace. Eh? I wouldn't even post query if it
didn't stop seeping when float is depressed. Never saw the guts of one of
these.

Thx,
Will

yes, get you a Korky quiet fill. easy to install, easy to adjust. no
(exposed) float.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Sun, 07 Nov 2010 21:15:14 -0600, Steve Barker
wrote:

On 11/8/2010 3:10 AM, Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:

I got an American Std. toilet from the 1950's. Fluidmaster fill-valve was installed
maybe 10 years ago.

Tanks fills OK, but it seeps a little after fill-up. I push the float down a
little and it stops. Let go and it seeps again, constantly running a little
water into the overflow tube.

I tried adjustments, didn't seem to help.

Valve is shot, needs to be replace. Eh? I wouldn't even post query if it
didn't stop seeping when float is depressed. Never saw the guts of one of
these.

Thx,
Will

yes, get you a Korky quiet fill. easy to install, easy to adjust. no
(exposed) float.

Sounds like a good idea. But ftr, I made my Fluidmaster into quiet
fill by turning the water mostly off. Yes, it takes 5 minutes to fill
now, but in my case, it doesn't matter as long as I don't hear it.

I got an American Std. toilet from the 1950's. Fluidmaster fill-valve was installed
maybe 10 years ago.

Tanks fills OK, but it seeps a little after fill-up. I push the float down a
little and it stops. Let go and it seeps again, constantly running a little
water into the overflow tube.

I tried adjustments, didn't seem to help.

Valve is shot, needs to be replace. Eh? I wouldn't even post query if it
didn't stop seeping when float is depressed. Never saw the guts of one of
these.

Thx,
Will

On Nov 8, 3:10*am, Wilfred Xavier Pickles
wrote:
I got an American Std. toilet from the 1950's. Fluidmaster fill-valve was installed
maybe 10 years ago.

Tanks fills OK, but it seeps a little after fill-up. I push the float down a
little and it stops. Let go and it seeps again, constantly running a little
water into the overflow tube.

I tried adjustments, didn't seem to help.

Valve is shot, needs to be replace. Eh? I wouldn't even post query if it
didn't stop seeping when float is depressed. Never saw the guts of one of
these.

* Thx,
* Will

There is a height adjustment on these also. You move the ring up and
slide the whole valve off, then replace the valve w/float.
Replacing the disc valve will work most of the time...but there is a
swearing factor to deal with!

On Sun, 7 Nov 2010 15:26:05 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) "
wrote:


I don't understand seepage stopping when float is down, that normally
turns on the water to fill the tank.

I push the float down 1" or more, it fills like when the tank is
empty.

I push the float down about .5", it *sounds* like the leak is
stopped.

Maybe somebody can explain.

Will

On Nov 8, 4:10*am, Wilfred Xavier Pickles
wrote:
I got an American Std. toilet from the 1950's. Fluidmaster fill-valve was installed
maybe 10 years ago.

Tanks fills OK, but it seeps a little after fill-up. I push the float down a
little and it stops. Let go and it seeps again, constantly running a little
water into the overflow tube.

I tried adjustments, didn't seem to help.

Valve is shot, needs to be replace. Eh? I wouldn't even post query if it
didn't stop seeping when float is depressed. Never saw the guts of one of
these.

* Thx,
* Will

I would replace the entire fluidmaster, 10 years old is about it's
service life. 7-10 dollar item

"Wilfred Xavier Pickles" wrote in message
...
Thanks, I found the replacement seal no problem, but ...

I can't get the idiot cap off. Instructions say "remove the Valve cap
(Model
400A: lift arm first) by rotating 1/8 turn counterclockwise." It won't
rotate.

It's a 400A. From the top, ya can't see how the idiot cap fastens on. And
my head won't fit down in the tank. :-(

What's the combination? I don't wanna break their silly flogging valve.

Will



Do it with the water off, press down slightly while holding the lower
portion with your other hand. I have never experienced a problem.

Colbyt

Thanks, I found the replacement seal no problem, but ...

I can't get the idiot cap off. Instructions say "remove the Valve cap (Model
400A: lift arm first) by rotating 1/8 turn counterclockwise." It won't rotate.

It's a 400A. From the top, ya can't see how the idiot cap fastens on. And
my head won't fit down in the tank. :-(

What's the combination? I don't wanna break their silly flogging valve.

Will


On Sun, 7 Nov 2010 16:18:05 -0500, "Colbyt" wrote:

It needs a 50 cent part, maybe a dollar at the BORG. The same part fits them
all so no matter which model you are good to go.

Here is a random site from Google search showing the part:
https://www.hardwareworld.com/Ballco...t-pW3ATQB.aspx

No tools required to replace the part.

On Nov 9, 5:20*am, Wilfred Xavier Pickles
wrote:
Thanks, I found the replacement seal no problem, but ...

I can't get the idiot cap off. Instructions say "remove the Valve cap (Model
400A: lift arm first) by rotating 1/8 turn counterclockwise." It won't rotate.

It's a 400A. From the top, ya can't see how the idiot cap fastens on. And
my head won't fit down in the tank. :-(

What's the combination? I don't wanna break their silly flogging valve.

Will

On Sun, 7 Nov 2010 16:18:05 -0500, "Colbyt" wrote:
It needs a 50 cent part, maybe a dollar at the BORG. The same part fits them
all so no matter which model you are good to go.

Here is a random site from Google search showing the part:
https://www.hardwareworld.com/Ballco...t-pW3ATQB.aspx

No tools required to replace the part.

There are 2 locking arms that need to be lifted (when it goes back-on
they go up the cam (ramp) and lock.

Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote in
:

Thanks, I found the replacement seal no problem, but ...

I can't get the idiot cap off. Instructions say "remove the Valve cap
(Model 400A: lift arm first) by rotating 1/8 turn counterclockwise."
It won't rotate.

It's a 400A. From the top, ya can't see how the idiot cap fastens on.
And my head won't fit down in the tank. :-(

What's the combination? I don't wanna break their silly flogging
valve.

Will


On Sun, 7 Nov 2010 16:18:05 -0500, "Colbyt"
wrote:

It needs a 50 cent part, maybe a dollar at the BORG. The same part
fits them all so no matter which model you are good to go.

Here is a random site from Google search showing the part:
https://www.hardwareworld.com/Ballco...t-pW3ATQB.aspx

No tools required to replace the part.


The problem is not replacing the whole 10 buck item from the get-go.
Remember, the next trip you make for parts for this you have to add
wasted travel costs to the parts that didn't work or other old internal
parts that fail in the near future.

According to the IRS:

"For 2010, the standard mileage rate for the cost of operating your car
for business use is 50 cents per mile."


Then again, maybe it will last another 10 years....

Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:

I can't get the idiot cap off. Instructions say "remove the Valve cap (Model
400A: lift arm first) by rotating 1/8 turn counterclockwise." It won't rotate.

It's a 400A. From the top, ya can't see how the idiot cap fastens on. And
my head won't fit down in the tank. :-(

What's the combination? I don't wanna break their silly flogging valve.

There seem to be two different style 400A valves. With one type, you
remove the top by just pressing down and turning, but the other type
requires prying off the black plastic cap (can be done by hand) and
then prying up on the two tabs (next to the arrows) so the valve can
be turned counter clockwise:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4060/...5aa418b42f.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1349/...2732ee1d24.jpg

On Wed, 10 Nov 2010 05:09:36 -0600, Wilfred Xavier Pickles
wrote:

None of this stuff worked for mine. I just ripped the whole thing out and replaced it.

It sure would have saved a bunch of typing. For the cost of the
valve, the short time to install it, I don't even have to use spell
check. G

Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote in
:

On Tue, 9 Nov 2010 13:29:44 -0800 (PST), "larry moe 'n curly"
wrote:

There seem to be two different style 400A valves. With one type, you
remove the top by just pressing down and turning, but the other type
requires prying off the black plastic cap (can be done by hand) and
then prying up on the two tabs (next to the arrows) so the valve can
be turned counter clockwise:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4060/...5aa418b42f.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1349/...2732ee1d24.jpg


At least 2. Maybe more. Maybe lots more.

None of this stuff worked for mine. I just ripped the whole thing out
and replaced it.

Mutha-F*** Fluidmaster **AND** The Idiot Donkey That It Rode In On!!

Thanks,
Will


....ripped the whole thing out? Two whole nuts ain't it? One of which is
only hand tight.

On Tue, 9 Nov 2010 13:29:44 -0800 (PST), "larry moe 'n curly"
wrote:

There seem to be two different style 400A valves. With one type, you
remove the top by just pressing down and turning, but the other type
requires prying off the black plastic cap (can be done by hand) and
then prying up on the two tabs (next to the arrows) so the valve can
be turned counter clockwise:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4060/...5aa418b42f.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1349/...2732ee1d24.jpg


At least 2. Maybe more. Maybe lots more.

None of this stuff worked for mine. I just ripped the whole thing out and replaced it.

Mutha-F*** Fluidmaster **AND** The Idiot Donkey That It Rode In On!!

Thanks,
Will