I have a 2001 Ford Ranger with the 4.0 V6 4X4. It hasn't been driven very
much but we try to start it and drive it some, it's mostly a backup when
another vehicle needs service or when we need a truck.

Recently the battery went bad, replaced it last weekend.

Now it cranks over without trying to start. I shot starting fluid in the
breather, it starts and runs a few seconds, then quits, so I'm guessing it's
not getting fuel.

I plan to check for power to fuel pump as my next step. Any other ideas?
If the anti-theft cut off fuel if the key code reader wasn't working
correctly?

RogerN

On Tuesday, December 3, 2013 3:56:21 AM UTC-8, RogerN wrote:
I have a 2001 Ford Ranger with the 4.0 V6 4X4. It hasn't been driven very

much but we try to start it and drive it some, it's mostly a backup when

another vehicle needs service or when we need a truck.



Recently the battery went bad, replaced it last weekend.



Now it cranks over without trying to start. I shot starting fluid in the

breather, it starts and runs a few seconds, then quits, so I'm guessing it's

not getting fuel.



I plan to check for power to fuel pump as my next step. Any other ideas?

If the anti-theft cut off fuel if the key code reader wasn't working

correctly?



RogerN

Sounds like a fuel pump problem to me.

On Tue, 3 Dec 2013 05:56:21 -0600, "RogerN" wrote:


I have a 2001 Ford Ranger with the 4.0 V6 4X4. It hasn't been driven very
much but we try to start it and drive it some, it's mostly a backup when
another vehicle needs service or when we need a truck.

Recently the battery went bad, replaced it last weekend.

Now it cranks over without trying to start. I shot starting fluid in the
breather, it starts and runs a few seconds, then quits, so I'm guessing it's
not getting fuel.

I plan to check for power to fuel pump as my next step. Any other ideas?
If the anti-theft cut off fuel if the key code reader wasn't working
correctly?

RogerN

Check the fuel pump impact switch. Check for fuel pressure at the
schrader valve. Check for power on one side of the injector plug with
key on, not cranking. Check for injector operation with a stethoscope.

"RogerN" wrote in message
...

I have a 2001 Ford Ranger with the 4.0 V6 4X4. It hasn't been
driven very much but we try to start it and drive it some, it's
mostly a backup when another vehicle needs service or when we need a
truck.

Recently the battery went bad, replaced it last weekend.

Now it cranks over without trying to start. I shot starting fluid
in the breather, it starts and runs a few seconds, then quits, so
I'm guessing it's not getting fuel.

I plan to check for power to fuel pump as my next step. Any other
ideas? If the anti-theft cut off fuel if the key code reader wasn't
working correctly?

RogerN

Mine's a 1991, EEC-IV, so maybe not too similar. The fuel pump runs
for a second or so to pressurize the injectors when the key is
switched on, then stops until the crankshaft sensor tells the computer
that the engine is turning (AFAIK). This is to prevent the pump from
squirting gas from a broken line after a crash. Chevy Vegas grounded
the fuel pump through the oil pressure sensor for the same reason.
There's also an inertia switch like the one that triggers air bags
which kills the pump, a mechanical backup to the computer.

The inertia switch, behind the upper edge of the carpet under the dash
on the passenger side, opens the hot wire from the relay to the pump.
The computer grounds the low side of the pump relay to enable it. My
note on the schematic says the pump draws 3.0A.

The quick test is to turn on the ignition without starting and listen
for the pump's whirring sound. I've had to pull mine out of the tank
and de-gunk it. Fortunately Ford Ranger beds are easy to unbolt from
above with a T55 bit.
jsw

"RogerN" wrote in message
...

If the anti-theft cut off fuel if the key code reader wasn't working
correctly?

RogerN

Yes, frapjously!

http://www.therangerstation.com/

jsw

Do this, reach under and give the bottom of the fuel tank several open
handed slaps... have a hunch it'll 'wake up' a failing fuel pump. (Works
the same as rapping on a failing starter motor.)

If it does work, and the chances are good... don't put off getting a new
fuel pump. You may in fact 'get away' with the slapping thing more than
once, but you'll now be on borrowed time.

This is a good 'self rescue' tactic to keep in the back of your mind,
and always a good place to begin with an otherwise unexplained no start
on fuel injected vehicle. Not 100% effective, but successful more often
one would imagine... quick, simple & free as well.

Let us know how it goes.

Erik

"Erik" wrote in message
...
Do this, reach under and give the bottom of the fuel tank several
open handed slaps... have a hunch it'll 'wake up' a failing fuel
pump. (Works the same as rapping on a failing starter motor.)

If it does work, and the chances are good... don't put off getting a
new fuel pump. You may in fact 'get away' with the slapping thing
more than once, but you'll now be on borrowed time.

This is a good 'self rescue' tactic to keep in the back of your
mind, and always a good place to begin with an otherwise unexplained
no start on fuel injected vehicle. Not 100% effective, but
successful more often one would imagine... quick, simple & free as
well.

Let us know how it goes.

Erik

FWIW, the tank on my 4WD 91 rests on a steel skidplate. The pump is
suspended from a large round hatch in the top.
jsw

"Jim Wilkins" fired this volley in news:l7l516$ine$1
@dont-email.me:

suspended from a large round hatch in the top.
jsw

Same as most. Rapping on the bottom of the tank is tantamount to saying an
incantation. It does nothing, but makes you feel good.

Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
"Jim Wilkins" fired this volley in
news:l7l516$ine$1
@dont-email.me:

suspended from a large round hatch in the top.
jsw

Same as most. Rapping on the bottom of the tank is tantamount to
saying an
incantation. It does nothing, but makes you feel good.

Lloyd

No part of crawling under my truck makes me feel good, well except
that I still fit under it. I feel good when the Check Engine light
stays off.
jsw

On Tuesday, December 3, 2013 6:56:21 AM UTC-5, RogerN wrote:

I plan to check for power to fuel pump as my next step. Any other ideas?

If the anti-theft cut off fuel if the key code reader wasn't working

correctly?



RogerN

I had a similar problem. There was some corrosion on the fuel pump relay contacts. So the relay would not operate. Pull the relay from the box in the engine compartment and see it there is any corrosion on the pins that plug into the relay socket.

Dan

On Tuesday, December 3, 2013 12:40:42 PM UTC-5, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Erik" wrote in message

...

Do this, reach under and give the bottom of the fuel tank several

open handed slaps... have a hunch it'll 'wake up' a failing fuel

pump. (Works the same as rapping on a failing starter motor.)



If it does work, and the chances are good... don't put off getting a

new fuel pump. You may in fact 'get away' with the slapping thing

more than once, but you'll now be on borrowed time.



This is a good 'self rescue' tactic to keep in the back of your

mind, and always a good place to begin with an otherwise unexplained

no start on fuel injected vehicle. Not 100% effective, but

successful more often one would imagine... quick, simple & free as

well.



Let us know how it goes.



Erik



FWIW, the tank on my 4WD 91 rests on a steel skidplate. The pump is

suspended from a large round hatch in the top.

jsw

I had to change the pump in my '92. Oh my god what a hassle that was. the plastic tank had been form-fit into every little crevice to max out the capacity, at various points the rear suspension had to be fully compressed or more than fully extended. The shop manual said to just pull the rear axle.

On Tue, 3 Dec 2013 12:40:42 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Erik" wrote in message
...
Do this, reach under and give the bottom of the fuel tank several
open handed slaps... have a hunch it'll 'wake up' a failing fuel
pump. (Works the same as rapping on a failing starter motor.)

If it does work, and the chances are good... don't put off getting a
new fuel pump. You may in fact 'get away' with the slapping thing
more than once, but you'll now be on borrowed time.

This is a good 'self rescue' tactic to keep in the back of your
mind, and always a good place to begin with an otherwise unexplained
no start on fuel injected vehicle. Not 100% effective, but
successful more often one would imagine... quick, simple & free as
well.

Let us know how it goes.

Erik

FWIW, the tank on my 4WD 91 rests on a steel skidplate. The pump is
suspended from a large round hatch in the top.

And hopefully accessible from the top, through the body.


--
Just as a picture is drawn by an artist, surroundings
are created by the activities of the mind.

On Tue, 03 Dec 2013 18:07:14 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 3 Dec 2013 12:40:42 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Erik" wrote in message
...
Do this, reach under and give the bottom of the fuel tank several
open handed slaps... have a hunch it'll 'wake up' a failing fuel
pump. (Works the same as rapping on a failing starter motor.)

If it does work, and the chances are good... don't put off getting a
new fuel pump. You may in fact 'get away' with the slapping thing
more than once, but you'll now be on borrowed time.

This is a good 'self rescue' tactic to keep in the back of your
mind, and always a good place to begin with an otherwise unexplained
no start on fuel injected vehicle. Not 100% effective, but
successful more often one would imagine... quick, simple & free as
well.

Let us know how it goes.

Erik

FWIW, the tank on my 4WD 91 rests on a steel skidplate. The pump is
suspended from a large round hatch in the top.

And hopefully accessible from the top, through the body.
It's a pickup. The box comes off faster than the skidplate.

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 3 Dec 2013 12:40:42 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


FWIW, the tank on my 4WD 91 rests on a steel skidplate. The pump is
suspended from a large round hatch in the top.

And hopefully accessible from the top, through the body.

Undo 6 T55 bed bolts,
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...es/rearbed.jpg
remove the tailgate and unplug the taillight connector behind the
bumper, remove the filler neck screws, place the 2x6 with the centered
lift eye between the side walls over the wheel wells, roll up the shop
crane and hoist the bed right off.

IIRC two guys can lift it off, certainly four. I've turned mine over
by myself to do rust repairs. They are a little fussy to reinstall but
nothing like the Chevy 350 we struggled to put in yesterday.
jsw

On Tue, 03 Dec 2013 21:40:25 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 03 Dec 2013 18:07:14 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 3 Dec 2013 12:40:42 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Erik" wrote in message
...
Do this, reach under and give the bottom of the fuel tank several
open handed slaps... have a hunch it'll 'wake up' a failing fuel
pump. (Works the same as rapping on a failing starter motor.)

If it does work, and the chances are good... don't put off getting a
new fuel pump. You may in fact 'get away' with the slapping thing
more than once, but you'll now be on borrowed time.

This is a good 'self rescue' tactic to keep in the back of your
mind, and always a good place to begin with an otherwise unexplained
no start on fuel injected vehicle. Not 100% effective, but
successful more often one would imagine... quick, simple & free as
well.

Let us know how it goes.

Erik

FWIW, the tank on my 4WD 91 rests on a steel skidplate. The pump is
suspended from a large round hatch in the top.

And hopefully accessible from the top, through the body.
It's a pickup. The box comes off faster than the skidplate.

There's no access plate? http://tinyurl.com/mav8s7a Nice Moroso.

--
Just as a picture is drawn by an artist, surroundings
are created by the activities of the mind.

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 03 Dec 2013 21:40:25 -0500, wrote:

It's a pickup. The box comes off faster than the skidplate.

There's no access plate? http://tinyurl.com/mav8s7a Nice Moroso.

That'd look real purty after a couple loads of crushed rock and 200
miles with a lathe leg resting on it.

I put a home-made one in the back of a VW Beetle to reach the starter,
fuel line and upper engine bolts.
jsw

On Tue, 3 Dec 2013 23:18:48 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 03 Dec 2013 21:40:25 -0500, wrote:

It's a pickup. The box comes off faster than the skidplate.

There's no access plate? http://tinyurl.com/mav8s7a Nice Moroso.

That'd look real purty after a couple loads of crushed rock and 200
miles with a lathe leg resting on it.

No doubt! g Can you say "Plywood liner"? I knew you could.
Speaking of crushed rock, I found and bought and -love- my Load
Handler. If you don't already have either a dump bed or hired hands,
get one! They're sweet. http://tinyurl.com/k8h95yo I bought the
rake, too. It works as well on bark nuggets as it does on 3/4-. I
have a real liner so I use plywood when carrying legged items.


I put a home-made one in the back of a VW Beetle to reach the starter,
fuel line and upper engine bolts.

I found a few access holes cut in Mustang inner fenders to get to the
spark plugs in the 260 and 289 V-8s. Half of those found their way
into the junk yard with broken unibodies if they were driven hard. It
weakened the body too much when 4 holes were punched in each side.

--
Just as a picture is drawn by an artist, surroundings
are created by the activities of the mind.

On Tue, 3 Dec 2013 22:40:56 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 3 Dec 2013 12:40:42 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


FWIW, the tank on my 4WD 91 rests on a steel skidplate. The pump is
suspended from a large round hatch in the top.

And hopefully accessible from the top, through the body.

Undo 6 T55 bed bolts,
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...es/rearbed.jpg
remove the tailgate and unplug the taillight connector behind the
bumper, remove the filler neck screws, place the 2x6 with the centered
lift eye between the side walls over the wheel wells, roll up the shop
crane and hoist the bed right off.

IIRC two guys can lift it off, certainly four. I've turned mine over
by myself to do rust repairs. They are a little fussy to reinstall but
nothing like the Chevy 350 we struggled to put in yesterday.

Ayup, that certainly works. Better yet, put in a dump bed mechanism
while it's up. http://tinyurl.com/jw36tut I wish I'd been able to get
one for my Tundra, but they're nested and styled wrong for it. Alas,
it's an interference fit.

--
Just as a picture is drawn by an artist, surroundings
are created by the activities of the mind.

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 3 Dec 2013 23:18:48 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
There's no access plate? http://tinyurl.com/mav8s7a Nice Moroso.

That'd look real purty after a couple loads of crushed rock and 200
miles with a lathe leg resting on it.

No doubt! g Can you say "Plywood liner"? I knew you could.

I made one that fits around the crosswise supports for the bed crane.
It is good protection against scrap iron but gravel gets under it and
grinds at the paint all the time, worse when the truck is empty and
bouncy.

My answer is a bed liner I bought at half price from the dealer after
Ford changed body styles. It keeps the weather from washing away the
LPS-3 I spray on the metal and doesn't interfere with checking for or
repairing rust like a spray-on coating. The liner's clamping screws
still turn like new to remove or install it after 20+ years outdoors.
jsw

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 3 Dec 2013 22:40:56 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

Ayup, that certainly works. Better yet, put in a dump bed mechanism
while it's up. http://tinyurl.com/jw36tut I wish I'd been able to
get
one for my Tundra, but they're nested and styled wrong for it. Alas,
it's an interference fit.


My trailer was recycled from snowmobile duty and tilts enough for the
few times I need to move sand or gravel, generally leftovers from a
neighbor's project. We all have acre lots but mine is the only
undeveloped one with good places to pile stuff.

The Ranger's bed side walls are low enough that I can unload it by
reaching over them. That is a major part of why I kept it so long.

On Wed, 4 Dec 2013 10:40:13 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 3 Dec 2013 23:18:48 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
There's no access plate? http://tinyurl.com/mav8s7a Nice Moroso.

That'd look real purty after a couple loads of crushed rock and 200
miles with a lathe leg resting on it.

No doubt! g Can you say "Plywood liner"? I knew you could.

I made one that fits around the crosswise supports for the bed crane.
It is good protection against scrap iron but gravel gets under it and
grinds at the paint all the time, worse when the truck is empty and
bouncy.

YOu have to pop it out after the load is emptied to clean under it,
then leave it out until another load of rock is hauled. Simple.


My answer is a bed liner I bought at half price from the dealer after

I love liners. I more often want things to slide rather than stick,
so it saves a whole lot of climbing and repositioning for me. A little
15'x1" tiedown strap secures things where I want them when necessary.


Ford changed body styles. It keeps the weather from washing away the
LPS-3 I spray on the metal and doesn't interfere with checking for or
repairing rust like a spray-on coating. The liner's clamping screws
still turn like new to remove or install it after 20+ years outdoors.

Spray lithium grease went on my liner screws. It lasts at least 17
years, as proven by my last liner on the F-150.

--
Just as a picture is drawn by an artist, surroundings
are created by the activities of the mind.