I bought a 2001 Ford Ranger 4X4 truck last weekend, 106K miles, 4.0L 6 Cyl.

I'm wanting to find out what items I can expect to need to replace within
the next 50k to 100K miles. Such as sensors, ball joints, U-joints, tie rod
ends, etc. If I understand correctly, the engine should easily last over
200K miles, maybe 300k. Just wanting to know what to expect, I'm hoping to
do preventative maintenance instead of waiting for a failure.

RogerN

On May 28, 6:58*am, "RogerN" wrote:
I bought a 2001 Ford Ranger 4X4 truck last weekend, 106K miles, 4.0L 6 Cyl.

I'm wanting to find out what items I can expect to need to replace within
the next 50k to 100K miles. *Such as sensors, ball joints, U-joints, tie rod
ends, etc. *If I understand correctly, the engine should easily last over
200K miles, maybe 300k. *Just wanting to know what to expect, I'm hoping to
do preventative maintenance instead of waiting for a failure.

RogerN

I had a 99 4 liter 5 speed, I think the schmuck I bought it from left
a spark plug loose. Had a slight ping from day 1 I owned it, so I
didn't realize it was a brewing problem- ended up cracking a head, had
80k on it or so and just but a long block in it- That one never
pinged.

Drove that puppy to about 225,000 miles and the (mazda toploader)
transmission started making noise, so I sold it for parts and got my
subaru. The mainshaft in the mazda trans is actually 2 end-end shafts
held together with a bearing so they can spin freely from each other,
and when that bearing wears it makes a bit of noise before failing
catastrophically. It is repairable, though.

I thought the 4.0 was a great engine.

I needed a driveshaft in there somewhere, and it liked to go through
front wheel bearings, but i did drive it pretty hard.
Needed ball joints and the drag link at some point too, but again, I
beat on it pretty bad.

Never had a problem with the 4WD except for needing to clean up the
contact in the electric shift motor.

There's a great site for these trucks- www.therangerstation.com

Dave

--Water pump will fail after about 100k; tranny will go at about
125k. My last 4 trucks have been Rangers; all with the V-6 engine. F-150
actually gets comparable mileage but they're harder to park... ;-)

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Come see my stuff
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : at Maker Faire!!
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

"RogerN" wrote:

I bought a 2001 Ford Ranger 4X4 truck last weekend, 106K miles, 4.0L 6 Cyl.

I'm wanting to find out what items I can expect to need to replace within
the next 50k to 100K miles. Such as sensors, ball joints, U-joints, tie rod
ends, etc. If I understand correctly, the engine should easily last over
200K miles, maybe 300k. Just wanting to know what to expect, I'm hoping to
do preventative maintenance instead of waiting for a failure.


I had a 1991 2.9 V6. It made 236,500 miles when a ring cracked.

Alignments were a bitch since bushings had to be changed.

I had to have the front coils replaced and the rear springs re-arched. I didn't carry
heavy loads.

Two water pumps. Might have been only one if I had checked the viscous fan drive for
play. The fan drive ate the pump and the replacement pump.

Had to replace the drive shaft u joints early in life like still in warranty, paid for an
upgraded driveshaft instead of getting the same OEM crap that died in warranty. Felt
ripped on that one.

Automatic locking hubs were replaced by manual hubs early in life but after warranty.

The front axle joints were replaced once on both sides.

Tranny was solid. Changed fluid at 50K and again at 100K.

Good luck, it wasn't a bad truck considering it was a 4x4 with the extra wear items.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

I just got the chance to check the gas mileage today, I got 202 miles on
9.856 gallons, a little better than 20 mpg, not to bad on a 4.0L V-6.
Anyway, if this thing lasts me a few years that will be great.

RogerN

I bought a 2001 Ford Ranger 4X4 truck last weekend, 106K miles, 4.0L 6 Cyl.

I'm wanting to find out what items I can expect to need to replace within
the next 50k to 100K miles. *Such as sensors, ball joints, U-joints, tie rod
ends, etc. *If I understand correctly, the engine should easily last over
200K miles, maybe 300k. *Just wanting to know what to expect, I'm hoping to
do preventative maintenance instead of waiting for a failure.

I had an 85 2.8L 2wd, my wife had a 94 4L 4wd Mazda that I ended up
driving, and I currently drive a 96 2.3L 2wd.

I am squarely in the rust belt, which slants my repairs to a certain
perspective.

All 3 have had at least one, if not all, of the rear spring hangers
(frame brackets) and/or shackles replaced. If you need to do this, an
air hammer with a pointed tool works great for pounding the bolts out
of the spring bushings. Sometimes you can get them out of the sleeve,
sometimes the sleeve and bolt will drive out of the rubber bushing,
sometimes you will have to eat away at the bushing itself with drills
and sawblades (if there is enough gap where the spring wraps sometimes
you can get a sawzall blade in there). Just buy the pair of bushing
halves, sleeve and bolt when you get the bracket, since only the
dealer will have them anyway (well, or eBay). Grind the bracket
rivets off flush with a cut-off wheel, pound them through the frame
with the air hammer, and fit the new brackets up with bolts. Some
people will tell you to remove the bed to get at the brackets, but I
found it far easier to just work from below. At some point you will
probably end up jacking the spring away from the frame to give you
some elbow room, and a ratchetting strap to move the axle backwards or
forwards to get the eyes to line up can help.

The one time I had to pull a bed to get at a leaking gas tank gasket
was a royal pain, requiring cutting all the bed bolts--one of which is
over the tank. I seem to recall that the tank was a tight enough fit
that cutting the straps and dropping it wouldn't have worked without
pulling the driveshaft or somesuch.

On 2 of the 3, one or more helper or overload leaves has broken,
requiring replacement. On the 96, I left the main leafs in, cut the
eyes off another pair of spring packs, rounded the ends slightly, then
used that new spring pack main leaf as an additional helper leaf.
They've now taken a set and are about down to stock height again after
a number of years of consistent abuse--as much due to potholes as
loading.

On every single one, the two bolt flange (spring loaded or not) at the
center of the exhaust system has given trouble. Every time I have
given up and simply hacked the flanges off (metal blade in a sawzall
will do it in seconds) and replaced them with a simple repair tube (to
convert the diameters) and a pair of u-clamps all that trouble has
ceased. Muffler shops hate it, because they can no longer sell you a
whole system to replace just the bad gasket seats on a pair of
flanges--one of which end s up staying on the cat half anyway. Though
on the 84, whenever the gasket went, it gained a few horsepower along
with that "sportier exhaust note" which made it more fun in heavy
expressway traffic (if you have to be there, more fun is good).

U-joints at somewhere between 100k and 200k is a good guess, I just
did the ones in the 96 at 200k. So is an alternator and whatever belt
idlers you have. The 4.0 had AC which, oddly enough, never gave a bit
of trouble.

The Mazdas are not rustproofed the same as the Fords, and will rust
out faster, especially at the wheelwells. Even outside the rustbelt.
I visited a friend in DFW and he pointed out that even there all the
Mazdas of a certain age were rusted out.

The 4x4 ate a set of automatic hubs at some point, which then caused
the electric transfer case shift motor to be overused and burn out,
and I think the relay. I think that was at about 125k, give or take.
I loved having the low range for pulling overgrown shrubs, but other
than that, didn't use 4-wheel more than once or twice a winter. I
kept it as a yard mule for a couple years after I took it off the road
just for that (had to rent a backhoe the next year). The 96 is geared
for mileage, it could use a lower gear to save the clutch when towing,
particularly when backing loaded trailers.

I've not had a lick of trouble with the Mazda 5-speed in any of them.

Far and away the best resource I have found for information is
http://www.therangerstation.com which is admittedly geared towards the
off-road enthusiast, but all their basic info has been spot-on, is
extensive, and is augmented with additional forums for the essoteric
stuff that crops up. Start at their tech library:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index.php

Hope that helps.
--Glenn Lyford

On Fri, 28 May 2010 05:58:24 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:

I bought a 2001 Ford Ranger 4X4 truck last weekend, 106K miles, 4.0L 6 Cyl.

I'm wanting to find out what items I can expect to need to replace within
the next 50k to 100K miles. Such as sensors, ball joints, U-joints, tie rod
ends, etc. If I understand correctly, the engine should easily last over
200K miles, maybe 300k. Just wanting to know what to expect, I'm hoping to
do preventative maintenance instead of waiting for a failure.

RogerN

Very good truck

Head gaskets may..may need replacement around 135-175k. I understand
Ford solved that problem..but Im keeping my fingers crossed as my 2001
has 180k on it so far.

Belt Idler pully and bearing at about 125k

Ive never..never replaced a front end part in a Ranger/Mazda 2wd.
Neither in my 94 Mazda B3000 (3.0) or my current 2001 Ranger (3.0)

Alternator at 200k


I cant speak for the 4x stuff.

Ive also never replaced a drive line part either. No..take that
back..replaced one carrier bearing at 350k on the 94 Mazda

Is it auto or clutch?

Autos need to be flushed at 150k
Standards will need both the slave cylinder replaced with the clutch
plate (about 175k miles for me), and so forth.


Gunner

Gunner

--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

--My mileage went up by about 1.5 mpg when I put a camper shell on
the box. FWIW..

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Come see my stuff
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : at Maker Faire!!
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

"steamer" wrote in message
...
--My mileage went up by about 1.5 mpg when I put a camper shell on
the box. FWIW..

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Come see my stuff
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : at Maker Faire!!
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

Thanks, I was just wondering if a camper shell would make a difference, also
my mileage was with the A/C running, might do a little better without it.

RogerN

On 29 May 2010 16:25:58 GMT, steamer wrote:

--My mileage went up by about 1.5 mpg when I put a camper shell on
the box. FWIW..

Oddly enough...mine goes up when I pull the 5x8 Wells Cargo as long as
its empty. By at least 2mpg

Gunner

--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 28 May 2010 05:58:24 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:

I bought a 2001 Ford Ranger 4X4 truck last weekend, 106K miles, 4.0L 6
Cyl.

I'm wanting to find out what items I can expect to need to replace within
the next 50k to 100K miles. Such as sensors, ball joints, U-joints, tie
rod
ends, etc. If I understand correctly, the engine should easily last over
200K miles, maybe 300k. Just wanting to know what to expect, I'm hoping
to
do preventative maintenance instead of waiting for a failure.

RogerN

Very good truck

Head gaskets may..may need replacement around 135-175k. I understand
Ford solved that problem..but Im keeping my fingers crossed as my 2001
has 180k on it so far.

Belt Idler pully and bearing at about 125k

Ive never..never replaced a front end part in a Ranger/Mazda 2wd.
Neither in my 94 Mazda B3000 (3.0) or my current 2001 Ranger (3.0)

Alternator at 200k


I cant speak for the 4x stuff.

Ive also never replaced a drive line part either. No..take that
back..replaced one carrier bearing at 350k on the 94 Mazda

Is it auto or clutch?

Autos need to be flushed at 150k
Standards will need both the slave cylinder replaced with the clutch
plate (about 175k miles for me), and so forth.


Gunner



Thanks for the info Gunner, I knew you had a lot of mileage experience with
the Ranger and that's the major reason I was interested in a Ranger. I am
satisfied with the 20+ mpg I'm getting considering it's the 4X4 Ranger with
4.0 V6, running with A/C, and a few miles of the drive is in town.

RogerN

On Sat, 29 May 2010 15:07:37 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 28 May 2010 05:58:24 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:

I bought a 2001 Ford Ranger 4X4 truck last weekend, 106K miles, 4.0L 6
Cyl.

I'm wanting to find out what items I can expect to need to replace within
the next 50k to 100K miles. Such as sensors, ball joints, U-joints, tie
rod
ends, etc. If I understand correctly, the engine should easily last over
200K miles, maybe 300k. Just wanting to know what to expect, I'm hoping
to
do preventative maintenance instead of waiting for a failure.

RogerN

Very good truck

Head gaskets may..may need replacement around 135-175k. I understand
Ford solved that problem..but Im keeping my fingers crossed as my 2001
has 180k on it so far.

Belt Idler pully and bearing at about 125k

Ive never..never replaced a front end part in a Ranger/Mazda 2wd.
Neither in my 94 Mazda B3000 (3.0) or my current 2001 Ranger (3.0)

Alternator at 200k


I cant speak for the 4x stuff.

Ive also never replaced a drive line part either. No..take that
back..replaced one carrier bearing at 350k on the 94 Mazda

Is it auto or clutch?

Autos need to be flushed at 150k
Standards will need both the slave cylinder replaced with the clutch
plate (about 175k miles for me), and so forth.


Gunner



Thanks for the info Gunner, I knew you had a lot of mileage experience with
the Ranger and that's the major reason I was interested in a Ranger. I am
satisfied with the 20+ mpg I'm getting considering it's the 4X4 Ranger with
4.0 V6, running with A/C, and a few miles of the drive is in town.

RogerN

Thats very good mileage. With the current one, service shell and about
800 lbs of Stuff crammed into it..I average 19 mpg with the 3.0

The Mazda, (same engine) with its stick shift, averaged 21mpg but it had
the plastic shell.

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunneras...09231839070466

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunneras...83715126924594

Early picture before adding the service shell

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunneras...00018951405266

And of course the van...which actually gets about 15mpg..if I dont drive
over 55. At 65..it goes down to 10 mpg....

I LOVE the Ranger. As do most of the service companies in So. Cal. Phone
companies etc etc.

Id love to have the 4.0 engine..but they are much less common out here
in the extended cab, oddly enough.


Gunner

--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

On Sat, 29 May 2010 18:53:41 -0500
"RogerN" wrote:

snip
Some cars have the equipment to give a gas mileage at the moment using fuel
flow rate and speed. I'm wondering if that is where John gets 31mpg with
his Vette or if that includes pulling into filling stations and accelerating
up to speed. My truck doesn't have that feature so my gas mileage includes
starting, stopping, idling, accelerating, a few miles through town plus some
highway miles. I'm guessing the mileage while cruising on the highway is a
good bit better than my 202 mile average of 20.4 mpg.

My old 1982 Chevy K10 (full size 1/2 ton 4x4) with 6.2 diesel averages
20 mpg. With the extra hitches, pipe bumper, cap, crap... it goes 6000
lbs. No computer anywhere to be found, unless my old Garmin
GPSIII is velcroed to the dash

I've been checking the milage on it since it was bought new. Only go on
short runs anymore, so the milage is always tending towards the lower
side. Could get into the low 20's when making long road trips.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 May 2010 18:53:41 -0500
"RogerN" wrote:

snip
Some cars have the equipment to give a gas mileage at the moment using
fuel
flow rate and speed. I'm wondering if that is where John gets 31mpg with
his Vette or if that includes pulling into filling stations and
accelerating
up to speed. My truck doesn't have that feature so my gas mileage
includes
starting, stopping, idling, accelerating, a few miles through town plus
some
highway miles. I'm guessing the mileage while cruising on the highway is
a
good bit better than my 202 mile average of 20.4 mpg.

My old 1982 Chevy K10 (full size 1/2 ton 4x4) with 6.2 diesel averages
20 mpg. With the extra hitches, pipe bumper, cap, crap... it goes 6000
lbs. No computer anywhere to be found, unless my old Garmin
GPSIII is velcroed to the dash

I've been checking the milage on it since it was bought new. Only go on
short runs anymore, so the milage is always tending towards the lower
side. Could get into the low 20's when making long road trips.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email


I consider my gas mileage OK compared with other Rangers with the 4.0 V-6
but I would expect that the mileage should have improved in the last 25
years, with all the computers and sensors that they have compared to the
80's. Maybe I could put an 8 Cylinder in a small truck and get 30+ mpg!

RogerN

On Mon, 31 May 2010 10:23:57 -0500
"RogerN" wrote:

snip
I consider my gas mileage OK compared with other Rangers with the 4.0 V-6
but I would expect that the mileage should have improved in the last 25
years, with all the computers and sensors that they have compared to the
80's. Maybe I could put an 8 Cylinder in a small truck and get 30+ mpg!

I suspect you might be able to if you could make it a bit more
aerodynamic and change the drive ratio to keep the rpm's down. The
airflow/profile on pickup trucks isn't so good for milage nor their gear
ratios. Years ago I can remember after
market add-ons that went in between the transmission and differential.
Kind of a two speed set up. Don't know if you can still get them or
maybe find an old one for a song. I can really notice the difference in
milage with both my truck and motorcycle if I go over 60 mph for very
long.

My truck has the ~.283 rear differential and the wimpy 700R4 overdrive
transmission. Good for milage, bad for strength, durability. Been okay
so long as you remember the tranny is weak, so don't abuse it.

My Dad had one of the old VW Pickups with a diesel (Rabbit with truck
bed). Between the diesel engine and low slung narrow vehicle profile he
could get in the mid 40's for milage most all the time. I'm a bit
over six feet tall though and couldn't move the seat back far enough to
be comfortable. It would hit the back of the cab...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Mon, 31 May 2010 10:23:57 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:


"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 May 2010 18:53:41 -0500
"RogerN" wrote:

snip
Some cars have the equipment to give a gas mileage at the moment using
fuel
flow rate and speed. I'm wondering if that is where John gets 31mpg with
his Vette or if that includes pulling into filling stations and
accelerating
up to speed. My truck doesn't have that feature so my gas mileage
includes
starting, stopping, idling, accelerating, a few miles through town plus
some
highway miles. I'm guessing the mileage while cruising on the highway is
a
good bit better than my 202 mile average of 20.4 mpg.

My old 1982 Chevy K10 (full size 1/2 ton 4x4) with 6.2 diesel averages
20 mpg. With the extra hitches, pipe bumper, cap, crap... it goes 6000
lbs. No computer anywhere to be found, unless my old Garmin
GPSIII is velcroed to the dash

I've been checking the milage on it since it was bought new. Only go on
short runs anymore, so the milage is always tending towards the lower
side. Could get into the low 20's when making long road trips.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email


I consider my gas mileage OK compared with other Rangers with the 4.0 V-6
but I would expect that the mileage should have improved in the last 25
years, with all the computers and sensors that they have compared to the
80's. Maybe I could put an 8 Cylinder in a small truck and get 30+ mpg!

RogerN

Its actually a fairly efficient engine, but its hooked to a Truck, and
as such, gearing and rear end must be different than that of a car.

Whats the mileage of a typical Ford Taurus, with the same engine in it?

25-30 mpg, based on friends who have them.

Gunner

--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 31 May 2010 10:23:57 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:


"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 May 2010 18:53:41 -0500
"RogerN" wrote:

snip
Some cars have the equipment to give a gas mileage at the moment using
fuel
flow rate and speed. I'm wondering if that is where John gets 31mpg
with
his Vette or if that includes pulling into filling stations and
accelerating
up to speed. My truck doesn't have that feature so my gas mileage
includes
starting, stopping, idling, accelerating, a few miles through town plus
some
highway miles. I'm guessing the mileage while cruising on the highway
is
a
good bit better than my 202 mile average of 20.4 mpg.

My old 1982 Chevy K10 (full size 1/2 ton 4x4) with 6.2 diesel averages
20 mpg. With the extra hitches, pipe bumper, cap, crap... it goes 6000
lbs. No computer anywhere to be found, unless my old Garmin
GPSIII is velcroed to the dash

I've been checking the milage on it since it was bought new. Only go on
short runs anymore, so the milage is always tending towards the lower
side. Could get into the low 20's when making long road trips.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email


I consider my gas mileage OK compared with other Rangers with the 4.0 V-6
but I would expect that the mileage should have improved in the last 25
years, with all the computers and sensors that they have compared to the
80's. Maybe I could put an 8 Cylinder in a small truck and get 30+ mpg!

RogerN

Its actually a fairly efficient engine, but its hooked to a Truck, and
as such, gearing and rear end must be different than that of a car.

Whats the mileage of a typical Ford Taurus, with the same engine in it?

25-30 mpg, based on friends who have them.

Gunner


Mine has the 5 speed automatic (I think, it's still pretty new to me) and 60
MPH is just a touch over 2k rpm, compared to my Civic, 60 mph is about 2600
RPM. But I could see if the rear end is lower geared the drive shaft would
have to turn faster at 60mph than a higher geared rear end.

RogerN

Leon Fisk fired this volley in news:hu3jgp$krg
:

I have a 700R4 piece of junk as well.
I turned it into a real transmission the last time it was apart.
It'll never break again.

Oh they're okay if you treat them real nice. No tranny slams, forced
shifts, "passing gear" ... but how many people drive like that?


I never quite understood why they put the 700R4 in towing vehicles. Mine
on my diesel Sub never made it past 60K miles per rebuild.

"BABY" Allison was right. It never grew up. It kept evolving, with
thinner clutch packs with more plates, thicker packs with fewer,
different modulators, etc... but it would still eat the clutches or a
sprag in 50-60K -- every time.

LLoyd

On Tue, 01 Jun 2010 13:38:00 -0500
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Leon Fisk fired this volley in news:hu3jgp$krg
:

snip
Oh they're okay if you treat them real nice. No tranny slams, forced
shifts, "passing gear" ... but how many people drive like that?


I never quite understood why they put the 700R4 in towing vehicles. Mine
on my diesel Sub never made it past 60K miles per rebuild.

"BABY" Allison was right. It never grew up. It kept evolving, with
thinner clutch packs with more plates, thicker packs with fewer,
different modulators, etc... but it would still eat the clutches or a
sprag in 50-60K -- every time.

I twisted the guts in the torque converter at ~40,000 miles. Pulled it
out myself and after some preliminary checks took it to a tranny shop.
It looked new inside yet, still had writing on the clutch surfaces.
That meant the torque converter... As long as it was apart I had a mild
shift-kit and special front seal clamp put on. New torque converter, put
it back underneath, been treating it really nice for the past 25 years.
I'm at around 135,000 now. Seems to be okay yet, other than a strange
ticking noise, sometimes. Only while going forward, three ticks per
revolution of the drive shaft. That started around 4 years ago, not
even sure if it is still doing it. Figured it would get worse if it was
serious

They (700R4) were suppose to be a bit lighter (weight wise) than a 350
turbo, which was a good solid tranny. Mmm... another whole gearset and
a few pounds lighter, doesn't sound good for durability. And of course
as we both know, it wasn't. The transmission shops really liked that
tranny. They called it the 60-1000, 60,000 miles, $1000 to repair. Of
course that was 25 years ago...

My brother inlaw has an old (mid 90's) Chevy 1 ton 4x4 with a 454 and
four-speed automatic (the 4L80E). That tranny has taken a lot of
use/abuse and held up quite well.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email