I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the
middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

i

On 10/19/2013 4:44 PM, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the
middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

i
I would turn it so the bulge is up, place a 1/2 stick under each end and
let your kids jump on it.

Paul

On 2013-10-19, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the

Sorry. I just came home from a little party, that's why I mis-wrote
some things.

5x10 ft plate that is 3/4 inch thick.

middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

To add to that, I can somewhat deflect this plate using jacks and
chain.

i

"Ignoramus23452" wrote in message
...
On 2013-10-19, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the

Sorry. I just came home from a little party, that's why I mis-wrote
some things.

5x10 ft plate that is 3/4 inch thick.

middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

To add to that, I can somewhat deflect this plate using jacks and
chain.

i

Shaped charges at the right locations will do it.

Det cord with a tamper will also work.

Heat and Beat.

Best Regards
Tom.

5x10 ft plate that is 3/4 inch thick.

middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.


Heavy forklift between strategically-placed supports.

You have both, Ig.

So if I have this right the bow is in the 10' dimension, so if you put a 5'
long spacer on the ground at each 5' end and rested the 5' ends of the plate
on them, with the bow up, and then stepped on the plate really hard in the
center it would now be straight? If so, a concentrated load of 10,000 lbs
would deflect it 5.9" and the maximum stress in the plate (at the center)
would be 53,000 lbs which should be about the yield point. So get two 6"
thick beams to support the ends, put a 5' long plate a foot or so wide and
at least 3/4" thick across the middle of the 10' span parallel to the end
beams to spread the load in the 5' direction, and drive over it with one
front tire of your semi. There should be just enough room to get one tire
on the middle plate and have one end of the plate just clear the other front
tire, and you should have more than 7" of ground clearance. I'd make a
short ramp to get the tire up to the level of the plate, then drive across
until the tire almost comes off, then remove the ramp and back off the side
you came up on so when it unloads and snaps and bounces it won't hit
anything on the underside of your truck. Hopefully the tractor is heavy
enough to flex the plate all the to the ground which should just make it
yield. If not, load up the trailer :-). If the first pass doesn't get it,
add a 1/4 or 1/2" spacer to the top of each end beam so it flexes a little
further and try again.

Or drive over it with your biggest forklift if it is heavier, but you will
have all the wheels on the plate at once and the load will be spread out
much further. Or use the forklift to stack up 10,000 lbs of scrap steel in
a line across the center one pallet or chunk at a time. Or put a column in
the middle with a jack and a loop of chain running from each end over the
top of the jack so it looks like you are cocking a giant crossbow. I think
that would be very dangerous, though if anything slipped so don't do that.
However you flex the plate, you need at least 10,000 lbs of force and you
need to flex it about 6" to get it to yield (assuming a yield strength of
about 50 ksi).

-----
Regards,
Carl Ijames
"Ignoramus23452" wrote in message
...

On 2013-10-19, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the

Sorry. I just came home from a little party, that's why I mis-wrote
some things.

5x10 ft plate that is 3/4 inch thick.

middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

To add to that, I can somewhat deflect this plate using jacks and
chain.

i

On Sat, 19 Oct 2013 18:44:23 -0500, Ignoramus23452
wrote:

I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick.

Amazing! Simply amazing, Ig. How did you determine that? thud


It is bowed in the
middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

Is there any curvature across the 5' direction?

What is your reason for wanting it precisely flat? You -might- get
the bend out by placing 1/2" strips on each end, with the bow up, and
let the thing sag, perhaps with a bit of weight on top in the area
it's bowed. The reason it's there is probably a 3 degree Centigrade
difference between the top and bottom during rollout. (SWAG)

It would probably pull out during welding if attached to a perimeter
frame.

1/4" in ten feet (of a whole lotta metal) ain't a whole lotta
bow...unless it's for a surface plate. Does it flatten if you walk on
it? Heat or brute force might give you ripples while trying to take
out the bow.

--
It takes as much energy to wish as to plan.
--Eleanor Roosevelt

On Sat, 19 Oct 2013 18:52:38 -0500, Ignoramus23452
wrote:

On 2013-10-19, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the

Sorry. I just came home from a little party, that's why I mis-wrote
some things.

5x10 ft plate that is 3/4 inch thick.

middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

To add to that, I can somewhat deflect this plate using jacks and
chain.

i
Don't let the kids jump on it; drive your big truck on it.
--
Cheers,

John B.

On 10/19/2013 7:52 PM, Paul Drahn wrote:
On 10/19/2013 4:44 PM, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the
middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

i
I would turn it so the bulge is up, place a 1/2 stick under each end and
let your kids jump on it.

Paul

As long as the kids are driving trucks!

On 10/19/2013 8:31 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
5x10 ft plate that is 3/4 inch thick.

middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.


Heavy forklift between strategically-placed supports.

You have both, Ig.


Winner!

On 10/19/2013 8:42 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 19 Oct 2013 18:44:23 -0500, Ignoramus23452
wrote:

I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick.

Amazing! Simply amazing, Ig. How did you determine that? thud



Vodka!

On 2013-10-20, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:
On 10/19/2013 7:52 PM, Paul Drahn wrote:
On 10/19/2013 4:44 PM, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the
middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

i
I would turn it so the bulge is up, place a 1/2 stick under each end and
let your kids jump on it.

Paul

As long as the kids are driving trucks!

OK, seriously: I can deflect this plate enough to become straight,
temporarily. As soon as I remove the deflecting force (forklift or
jack with chain), the plate returns back to original position.

The "ridge" goes along the longer dimension.

i

On 10/19/2013 06:52 PM, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
On 2013-10-19, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the

Sorry. I just came home from a little party, that's why I mis-wrote
some things.

5x10 ft plate that is 3/4 inch thick.

middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

To add to that, I can somewhat deflect this plate using jacks and
chain.

Does it need to be clean on both sides? If not, a couple of weld
beads run across the convex side should pull it back straight.
Shouldn't take much.

--
Bob Nichols AT comcast.net I am "RNichols42"

"Ignoramus8008" wrote in message

OK, seriously: I can deflect this plate enough to become straight,
temporarily. As soon as I remove the deflecting force (forklift or
jack with chain), the plate returns back to original position.
The "ridge" goes along the longer dimension
i

You need to deflect it past straight until it yields. If you have a
way to measure the distance moved and the bending force, like the oil
pressure in a jack, you'll see and maybe feel the force stop
increasing when you reach the yield point of the metal.

I straightened some scrap channel iron by chaining the crooked piece
to two others in the center of the curve and jacking one end apart a
measured distance, increasing the distance by small increments until
the single piece was straight by eye after releasing the force. This
needs to be done carefully with everything safety-chained together as
~2000 lbs of force stored a lot of crossbow spring power in the steel.

Perhaps you could shim up one edge of the plate and drive the truck or
forklift to a mark near the center, slowly increasing either the
shimmed height or the distance you drive the vehicle as long as it's
more than heavy enough. If the plate hits the floor under the wheels
you control how far you bend it by the shim height, without having to
fine-tune the weight of the vehicle.

jsw

On 10/19/2013 4:44 PM, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the
middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

i

Use a OA torch with big rosebud and heat the bulge to dark red, let it
cool and shrink

On Sat, 19 Oct 2013 18:44:23 -0500, Ignoramus23452
wrote:

I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the
middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

i
If using shims and weight possible you can do that. But you can also
just use heat and water. Heating along the bulged side and then
cooling will shrink the metal, eventually pulling it flat. You could
use a big oxy-acetylene torch or a weed burner torch. I would use a
weed burner, actually a few of them, to heat the full length of the
bend all at once. Probably easiest though for you would be to use
wieght and shims. The plate would need to be shimmed a certain
distance above the floor and then the weight applied. By increasing
the shim height you will be able to increase the amount of deflection.
The plate will need to be deflected quite a bit before it starts to
take a permanent set in the direction opposite to the set it has now.
But as soon as this happens it will require much less added deflection
to get even more set. So shim up one edge, add the weight, remove the
weight, check to see if plate is starting to flatten, add more shim,
and repeat. If you do bend it too far you can turn it over and repeat
the process. But if you do this be aware that it will require much
less deflection for a certain amount of set than it did when working
on the other side. I personally would try the heat and cool method
first if I had the torches because there will be less likelyhood of
the plate warping again over time. But the bending method will work. I
know because I have straightened many shafts and plates.
Eric

On 2013-10-20, wrote:
On Sat, 19 Oct 2013 18:44:23 -0500, Ignoramus23452
wrote:

I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the
middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

i
If using shims and weight possible you can do that. But you can also
just use heat and water. Heating along the bulged side and then
cooling will shrink the metal, eventually pulling it flat. You could
use a big oxy-acetylene torch or a weed burner torch. I would use a
weed burner, actually a few of them, to heat the full length of the
bend all at once. Probably easiest though for you would be to use
wieght and shims. The plate would need to be shimmed a certain
distance above the floor and then the weight applied. By increasing
the shim height you will be able to increase the amount of deflection.
The plate will need to be deflected quite a bit before it starts to
take a permanent set in the direction opposite to the set it has now.
But as soon as this happens it will require much less added deflection
to get even more set. So shim up one edge, add the weight, remove the
weight, check to see if plate is starting to flatten, add more shim,
and repeat. If you do bend it too far you can turn it over and repeat
the process. But if you do this be aware that it will require much
less deflection for a certain amount of set than it did when working
on the other side. I personally would try the heat and cool method
first if I had the torches because there will be less likelyhood of
the plate warping again over time. But the bending method will work. I
know because I have straightened many shafts and plates.
Eric

Eric, thanks. I have a big "Belchfire" fuel/air torch. I may give it a
try.

i

On 2013-10-20, Ignoramus8008 wrote:
On 2013-10-20, wrote:
But you can also
just use heat and water. Heating along the bulged side and then
cooling will shrink the metal, eventually pulling it flat. You could
use a big oxy-acetylene torch or a weed burner torch. I would use a
weed burner, actually a few of them, to heat the full length of the
bend all at once.

Eric, thanks. I have a big "Belchfire" fuel/air torch. I may give it a
try.

OK, so, the way to do that would be:

1) Heat along the whole length with a belchfire torch, to perhaps 500
degrees F (measured with pyrometer)

2) Cool rapidly with garden hose spraying water on top

right?

i

On Sun, 20 Oct 2013 13:26:02 -0500, Ignoramus8008
wrote:

On 2013-10-20, Ignoramus8008 wrote:
On 2013-10-20, wrote:
But you can also
just use heat and water. Heating along the bulged side and then
cooling will shrink the metal, eventually pulling it flat. You could
use a big oxy-acetylene torch or a weed burner torch. I would use a
weed burner, actually a few of them, to heat the full length of the
bend all at once.

Eric, thanks. I have a big "Belchfire" fuel/air torch. I may give it a
try.

OK, so, the way to do that would be:

1) Heat along the whole length with a belchfire torch, to perhaps 500
degrees F (measured with pyrometer)

2) Cool rapidly with garden hose spraying water on top

right?

i

You'll need to at least 900F in order to get any significant reduction
in the yield strength of the steel. Keep in mind that if you get this
to work, you'll end up with a plate with waves rather a single hump.
The plate will be flatter overall, but wavy nonetheless. Mechanical
bending will result in small waves as well.

http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/bridge/steel/02.cfm

--
Ned Simmons

On Sun, 20 Oct 2013 10:09:49 -0700, "T.Alan Kraus"
wrote:

On 10/19/2013 4:44 PM, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the
middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

i

Use a OA torch with big rosebud and heat the bulge to dark red, let it
cool and shrink

This is great info, thanks. I had heard this before, but didn't
remember which side. Now that you say it, it makes sense. My welding
table top isn't as massive as Ig's, 30" x 8' x 1/2", but has a 1/8"
bow in the other direction. I bolted it to the table frame, so easy
to remove (with an engine hoist). I do have a weed burner.

Thanks again,

Pete Keillor

On Sun, 20 Oct 2013 15:08:58 -0400, Ned Simmons
wrote:

On Sun, 20 Oct 2013 13:26:02 -0500, Ignoramus8008
wrote:

On 2013-10-20, Ignoramus8008 wrote:
On 2013-10-20, wrote:
But you can also
just use heat and water. Heating along the bulged side and then
cooling will shrink the metal, eventually pulling it flat. You could
use a big oxy-acetylene torch or a weed burner torch. I would use a
weed burner, actually a few of them, to heat the full length of the
bend all at once.

Eric, thanks. I have a big "Belchfire" fuel/air torch. I may give it a
try.

OK, so, the way to do that would be:

1) Heat along the whole length with a belchfire torch, to perhaps 500
degrees F (measured with pyrometer)

2) Cool rapidly with garden hose spraying water on top

right?

i

You'll need to at least 900F in order to get any significant reduction
in the yield strength of the steel. Keep in mind that if you get this
to work, you'll end up with a plate with waves rather a single hump.
The plate will be flatter overall, but wavy nonetheless. Mechanical
bending will result in small waves as well.

http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/bridge/steel/02.cfm
Greetings Ned,
I have flame straightened some pretty thickstuff, though not 3/4
thick. I did not notice significant waviness. Thinking about it though
makes me think that some waviness would occur.
Eric

On Sun, 20 Oct 2013 13:26:02 -0500, Ignoramus8008
wrote:

On 2013-10-20, Ignoramus8008 wrote:
On 2013-10-20, wrote:
But you can also
just use heat and water. Heating along the bulged side and then
cooling will shrink the metal, eventually pulling it flat. You could
use a big oxy-acetylene torch or a weed burner torch. I would use a
weed burner, actually a few of them, to heat the full length of the
bend all at once.

Eric, thanks. I have a big "Belchfire" fuel/air torch. I may give it a
try.

OK, so, the way to do that would be:

1) Heat along the whole length with a belchfire torch, to perhaps 500
degrees F (measured with pyrometer)

2) Cool rapidly with garden hose spraying water on top

right?

i
Red heat is best. The metal needs to be soft enough to move easily.
And then the hose. And for a large radius bend it is best if the
heated area is spread out over the bent area, with the center being
hottest. You would probably be best served by trying the technique on
a piece of scrap to get a feel of how thw metal is going to move. I
learned how to flame straighten in welding class years ago and like
anything practice helps. If you were doing the sheet metal on a car
then lower heat would be OK since you don't want drastic changes. By
the way, the legs of the Space Needle in Seattle were flame bent. They
just used torches and water.
Eric

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 20 Oct 2013 13:26:02 -0500,
Ignoramus8008
wrote:

On 2013-10-20, Ignoramus8008
wrote:
On 2013-10-20,
wrote:
But you can also
just use heat and water. Heating along the
bulged side and then
cooling will shrink the metal, eventually
pulling it flat. You could
use a big oxy-acetylene torch or a weed
burner torch. I would use a
weed burner, actually a few of them, to heat
the full length of the
bend all at once.

Eric, thanks. I have a big "Belchfire"
fuel/air torch. I may give it a
try.

OK, so, the way to do that would be:

1) Heat along the whole length with a belchfire
torch, to perhaps 500
degrees F (measured with pyrometer)

2) Cool rapidly with garden hose spraying water
on top

right?

i
Red heat is best. The metal needs to be soft
enough to move easily.
And then the hose. And for a large radius bend
it is best if the
heated area is spread out over the bent area,
with the center being
hottest. You would probably be best served by
trying the technique on
a piece of scrap to get a feel of how thw metal
is going to move. I
learned how to flame straighten in welding class
years ago and like
anything practice helps. If you were doing the
sheet metal on a car
then lower heat would be OK since you don't want
drastic changes. By
the way, the legs of the Space Needle in Seattle
were flame bent. They
just used torches and water.
Eric

Yup, dull red is enough. Get a spot started red
and heat side to side
and _never_ back up to heat the trailing line.
Iron is body centered
cubic at room temp and changes to face centered
cubic at the correct
heat. The plate will have a slight tendency to go
the wrong way as the
spot changes to fcc so it helps to resist this if
you can. Most movement
will happen as the spot cools back to bcc,
shrinking as it cools. There
is no need to quench with water, that is simply a
time saver. There will
be a line of upset metal proud of the surface and
there is no way to
avoid that. You'll have to grind it off later.
This plate you're working on
is a rather long path to heat and you have to keep
the red spot steadily
moving on so quenching with water is not gonna
happen. Don't worry
about that.... ;)}
phil k.

On Sun, 20 Oct 2013 15:08:58 -0400, Ned Simmons
wrote:

On Sun, 20 Oct 2013 13:26:02 -0500, Ignoramus8008
wrote:

On 2013-10-20, Ignoramus8008 wrote:
On 2013-10-20, wrote:
But you can also
just use heat and water. Heating along the bulged side and then
cooling will shrink the metal, eventually pulling it flat. You could
use a big oxy-acetylene torch or a weed burner torch. I would use a
weed burner, actually a few of them, to heat the full length of the
bend all at once.

Eric, thanks. I have a big "Belchfire" fuel/air torch. I may give it a
try.

OK, so, the way to do that would be:

1) Heat along the whole length with a belchfire torch, to perhaps 500
degrees F (measured with pyrometer)

2) Cool rapidly with garden hose spraying water on top

right?

i

You'll need to at least 900F in order to get any significant reduction
in the yield strength of the steel. Keep in mind that if you get this
to work, you'll end up with a plate with waves rather a single hump.
The plate will be flatter overall, but wavy nonetheless. Mechanical
bending will result in small waves as well.

That's why I warned against it. Most of the time, a bow is better
than a set of ripples. Prettier, too.



http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/bridge/steel/02.cfm

Wow, comprehensive.

--
It takes as much energy to wish as to plan.
--Eleanor Roosevelt

Thanks, guys. I am having second thoughts about the heat method, as I
do believe that it will make the surface wavy and odd shaped. I do
know for sure that weight applied with a forklift and jacks/chains,
will flatten the surface acceptably. Given this knowledge, I will just
pull the surface from below using a welded on allthread and a
brace/nut, pulling the plate down using a C channel as a brace. It
should work. I have a 3/4" allthread available.

In article ,
Ignoramus8008 wrote:

Thanks, guys. I am having second thoughts about the heat method, as I
do believe that it will make the surface wavy and odd shaped. I do
know for sure that weight applied with a forklift and jacks/chains,
will flatten the surface acceptably. Given this knowledge, I will just
pull the surface from below using a welded on allthread and a
brace/nut, pulling the plate down using a C channel as a brace. It
should work. I have a 3/4" allthread available.

Thats a healthy chunk os steel you have... lets see, 60" X 120" X .75 is
5,400 cubic inches.

5,400 cubic inches divided 1,728 is 3.13 cubic feet.

Machinery's handbook claims steel weight of 491 lbs per cubic foot. So
3.13 cubic feet X 491 lbs comes to 1,536.83 lbs! (or .77 ton)

Loads of surface area to boot... it'd take a bunch of extra 'manly man'
torches to significantly heat it.

Lets see for the surface area... 60 X 120 inches is 7,200 square inches,
X 2 sides is 14,400 square inches. The edges add... 120 inches X 2
totaling 240... plus 2 X 60 inches for 120 inches for a circumference
of 360 inches, times .75 inches for a total edge area of 270 square
inches. (Another 1.88 square feet.

14,400 (total side) square inches + 270 (total edge) square inches gives
an overall total surface area of 14,670 square inches. Divided by 144
comes to 101.88 square feet.

101.88 square feet radiates boat loads of heat...

Erik (with the 'k', not a 'c')

On Saturday, October 19, 2013 7:44:23 PM UTC-4, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the

middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle

and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I

realistically do it, if at all.



i

There is more than one way to do it. You can force it to be flat and then heat it to take out the stresses. You can force it past being flat so when released it returns to a straight position. Or you can heat the bulge and keep the rest of the plate cool, so the bulged metal yields but the rest of the plate does not yield. Then when it cools the plate will be flat.

Dan

On 2013-10-19, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the
middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

A followup: We straightened it with a hydraulic jack and chain. Welded
three 6x3 steel channels underneath to keep it straight, using jack as
each support was welded. Right now, the worst un-straightness across
the whole table, is no more than thickness of one credit card.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/table.jpg

i

On Mon, 21 Oct 2013 11:03:33 -0500, Ignoramus25661
wrote:

On 2013-10-19, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the
middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

A followup: We straightened it with a hydraulic jack and chain. Welded
three 6x3 steel channels underneath to keep it straight, using jack as
each support was welded. Right now, the worst un-straightness across
the whole table, is no more than thickness of one credit card.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/table.jpg

Wow! That's one helluva table, Ig. Congrats on your success.

--
It takes as much energy to wish as to plan.
--Eleanor Roosevelt

On 2013-10-21, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 21 Oct 2013 11:03:33 -0500, Ignoramus25661
wrote:

On 2013-10-19, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the
middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

A followup: We straightened it with a hydraulic jack and chain. Welded
three 6x3 steel channels underneath to keep it straight, using jack as
each support was welded. Right now, the worst un-straightness across
the whole table, is no more than thickness of one credit card.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/table.jpg

Wow! That's one helluva table, Ig. Congrats on your success.


Thanks Larry.

5x10 feet, 3/4" top, six legs, pretty nice table.

i

On Mon, 21 Oct 2013 14:39:12 -0500, Ignoramus25661
wrote:

On 2013-10-21, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 21 Oct 2013 11:03:33 -0500, Ignoramus25661
wrote:

On 2013-10-19, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the
middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

A followup: We straightened it with a hydraulic jack and chain. Welded
three 6x3 steel channels underneath to keep it straight, using jack as
each support was welded. Right now, the worst un-straightness across
the whole table, is no more than thickness of one credit card.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/table.jpg

Wow! That's one helluva table, Ig. Congrats on your success.


Thanks Larry.

5x10 feet, 3/4" top, six legs, pretty nice table.

Is this for you or for sale as a welding table? What's she weigh?

--
It takes as much energy to wish as to plan.
--Eleanor Roosevelt

On 2013-10-21, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 21 Oct 2013 14:39:12 -0500, Ignoramus25661
wrote:

On 2013-10-21, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 21 Oct 2013 11:03:33 -0500, Ignoramus25661
wrote:

On 2013-10-19, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the
middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

A followup: We straightened it with a hydraulic jack and chain. Welded
three 6x3 steel channels underneath to keep it straight, using jack as
each support was welded. Right now, the worst un-straightness across
the whole table, is no more than thickness of one credit card.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/table.jpg

Wow! That's one helluva table, Ig. Congrats on your success.


Thanks Larry.

5x10 feet, 3/4" top, six legs, pretty nice table.

Is this for you or for sale as a welding table? What's she weigh?


For sale. I did not weigh it. Maybe 2,000 lbs.

i

"Ignoramus25661" wrote in
message ...
On 2013-10-21, Larry Jaques
wrote:

5x10 feet, 3/4" top, six legs, pretty nice table.

Is this for you or for sale as a welding table? What's she weigh?


For sale. I did not weigh it. Maybe 2,000 lbs.

i

For quick estimates, 1" steel weighs 40 lbs per square foot.
Fractional thicknesses are easily figured as 5 Lbs per 1/8 inch, i.e
3/4" equals 30 Lbs per square foot.
http://www.turnersteelcoinc.com/html/plates.html

On 2013-10-21, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Ignoramus25661" wrote in
message ...
On 2013-10-21, Larry Jaques
wrote:

5x10 feet, 3/4" top, six legs, pretty nice table.

Is this for you or for sale as a welding table? What's she weigh?


For sale. I did not weigh it. Maybe 2,000 lbs.

i

For quick estimates, 1" steel weighs 40 lbs per square foot.
Fractional thicknesses are easily figured as 5 Lbs per 1/8 inch, i.e
3/4" equals 30 Lbs per square foot.
http://www.turnersteelcoinc.com/html/plates.html




I wrote a little scrap calculator webpage that I find handy.

http://www.algebra-inc.com/scrap.mpl

i

"Ignoramus25661"
wrote in
message
...
On 2013-10-19, Ignoramus23452
wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4"
thick. It is bowed in the
middle along its length. The worst
un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to
straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

A followup: We straightened it with a hydraulic
jack and chain. Welded
three 6x3 steel channels underneath to keep it
straight, using jack as
each support was welded. Right now, the worst
un-straightness across
the whole table, is no more than thickness of
one credit card.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/table.jpg

i

Channels underneath? Would have
been nice to know that in the OP, eih?
;)} We went off on all kinds of wild
tangents on how to do it.... heh heh...
but it was fun and you got the table
flat! Good thing you just went ahead
and did it the way the guys in the shop
wanted to do it. phil k.

On Monday, October 21, 2013 5:12:56 PM UTC-7, Phil Kangas wrote:
"Ignoramus25661"

wrote in

message

...

On 2013-10-19, Ignoramus23452

wrote:

I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4"

thick. It is bowed in the

middle along its length. The worst

un-straightness is in the middle

and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to

straighten it. How can I

realistically do it, if at all.



A followup: We straightened it with a hydraulic

jack and chain. Welded

three 6x3 steel channels underneath to keep it

straight, using jack as

each support was welded. Right now, the worst

un-straightness across

the whole table, is no more than thickness of

one credit card.



http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/table.jpg



i



Channels underneath? Would have

been nice to know that in the OP, eih?

;)} We went off on all kinds of wild

tangents on how to do it.... heh heh...

but it was fun and you got the table

flat! Good thing you just went ahead

and did it the way the guys in the shop

wanted to do it. phil k.

Hope you suckers had fun with iggy's latest post asking for help that lacked the proper information up front. It isn't the first time iggy has pulled this bull**** and it won't be the last time.

iggy almost always leaves out significant information when he asks for help. In doing so it frequently sends responders willing to provide help to iggy's moronic posts on a wild goose chase.

I think a sick little **** like iggy gets off on doing this because he does it so often.

On 2013-10-22, Phil Kangas wrote:

"Ignoramus25661"
wrote in
message
...
On 2013-10-19, Ignoramus23452
wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4"
thick. It is bowed in the
middle along its length. The worst
un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to
straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

A followup: We straightened it with a hydraulic
jack and chain. Welded
three 6x3 steel channels underneath to keep it
straight, using jack as
each support was welded. Right now, the worst
un-straightness across
the whole table, is no more than thickness of
one credit card.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/table.jpg

i

Channels underneath? Would have been nice to know that in the OP,

Well, we added the channels to straighten that table.

eih? ;)} We went off on all kinds of wild tangents on how to do
it.... heh heh... but it was fun and you got the table flat! Good
thing you just went ahead and did it the way the guys in the shop
wanted to do it. phil k.

It worked out pretty good. After straightening, the most
un-straightness was the thickness of a credit card.

i

On Monday, October 21, 2013 5:34:50 PM UTC-7, Ignoramus25661 wrote:
On 2013-10-22, Phil Kangas wrote:



"Ignoramus25661"

wrote in

message

...

On 2013-10-19, Ignoramus23452

wrote:

I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4"

thick. It is bowed in the

middle along its length. The worst

un-straightness is in the middle

and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to

straighten it. How can I

realistically do it, if at all.



A followup: We straightened it with a hydraulic

jack and chain. Welded

three 6x3 steel channels underneath to keep it

straight, using jack as

each support was welded. Right now, the worst

un-straightness across

the whole table, is no more than thickness of

one credit card.



http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/table.jpg



i



Channels underneath? Would have been nice to know that in the OP,



Well, we added the channels to straighten that table.



eih? ;)} We went off on all kinds of wild tangents on how to do

it.... heh heh... but it was fun and you got the table flat! Good

thing you just went ahead and did it the way the guys in the shop

wanted to do it. phil k.



It worked out pretty good. After straightening, the most

un-straightness was the thickness of a credit card.



i

That's not the point you ****ing asshole and you know it. I hope one of these days one of the guys who works for you has enough of your bull**** and lets you have it. No one deserves it more than you do.

The only thing I can come up with is flat feet under the circles of
death. Spread the weight so on dirt it won't sink.

Martin

On 10/21/2013 2:39 PM, Ignoramus25661 wrote:
On 2013-10-21, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 21 Oct 2013 11:03:33 -0500, Ignoramus25661
wrote:

On 2013-10-19, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the
middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

A followup: We straightened it with a hydraulic jack and chain. Welded
three 6x3 steel channels underneath to keep it straight, using jack as
each support was welded. Right now, the worst un-straightness across
the whole table, is no more than thickness of one credit card.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/table.jpg

Wow! That's one helluva table, Ig. Congrats on your success.


Thanks Larry.

5x10 feet, 3/4" top, six legs, pretty nice table.

i

On Mon, 21 Oct 2013 16:25:37 -0500, Ignoramus25661
wrote:

On 2013-10-21, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 21 Oct 2013 14:39:12 -0500, Ignoramus25661
wrote:

On 2013-10-21, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 21 Oct 2013 11:03:33 -0500, Ignoramus25661
wrote:

On 2013-10-19, Ignoramus23452 wrote:
I have a 3/4" thick steel plate that is 3/4" thick. It is bowed in the
middle along its length. The worst un-straightness is in the middle
and it is appx. 1/4". I would like to straighten it. How can I
realistically do it, if at all.

A followup: We straightened it with a hydraulic jack and chain. Welded
three 6x3 steel channels underneath to keep it straight, using jack as
each support was welded. Right now, the worst un-straightness across
the whole table, is no more than thickness of one credit card.

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/table.jpg

Wow! That's one helluva table, Ig. Congrats on your success.


Thanks Larry.

5x10 feet, 3/4" top, six legs, pretty nice table.

Is this for you or for sale as a welding table? What's she weigh?


For sale. I did not weigh it. Maybe 2,000 lbs.

You'll likely make as much moving it as the sale nets you.
Or do you do rigging of your own sales?

--
It takes as much energy to wish as to plan.
--Eleanor Roosevelt