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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Help! removing completely superglue
I am trying to glue a red bakelite object. The break is fresh. So I
put superglue on the break and everything was jake until I dropped the damn thing and it came apart and the glue set and there's **** stuck to the break. I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't seem to get it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need to soak the parts for hours? I need to remove all the glue so I can start over. You would think that after having years to get used to the nerve damage that causes me to drop things but nooooo, I still drop things and I know better. Crap. Eric |
#2
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Help! removing completely superglue
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#4
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Help! removing completely superglue
On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:53:19 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:18:41 -0700, wrote: I am trying to glue a red bakelite object. The break is fresh. So I put superglue on the break and everything was jake until I dropped the damn thing and it came apart and the glue set and there's **** stuck to the break. Ayieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! If that isn't a **** Happens moment, I hain't heard of one. Condolences, Eric. I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't seem to get it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need to soak the parts for hours? I need to remove all the glue so I can start over. I sure wouldn't want to soak a bakelite object in acetone for hours. It might dissolve itself. Repetitive mechanical scrubbings with sufficient dry times in between would be the way I'd try it. Here's some info from the horse's mouth: http://www.supergluecorp.com/removingsuperglue.html What a website! I LOVE this one from Superglue: "In the event that eyelids are stuck together or bonded to the eyeball, wash thoroughly with warm water and apply a gauze patch. The eye will open without further action within 1-4 days. To our knowledge there has never been a documented case of adhesive in the eye causing permanent damage. Do not try to force eyes open." Jesus! They've thought of glueing eyelids to eyeballs! That's really covering it.. ....hmmm...or maybe not. What if you get your tube of Superglue mixed up with your tube of KY Jelly? ....ouch... -- Ed Huntress You would think that after having years to get used to the nerve damage that causes me to drop things but nooooo, I still drop things and I know better. Crap. Perhaps a workspace surrounded by nets or catch-towels? |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Help! removing completely superglue
"Ed Huntress" wrote in message ... On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:18:41 -0700, wrote: I am trying to glue a red bakelite object. The break is fresh. So I put superglue on the break and everything was jake until I dropped the damn thing and it came apart and the glue set and there's **** stuck to the break. I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't seem to get it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need to soak the parts for hours? I need to remove all the glue so I can start over. You would think that after having years to get used to the nerve damage that causes me to drop things but nooooo, I still drop things and I know better. Crap. Eric The two easily available solvents for cyanoacrylate adhesives are acetone and methylene chloride (paint remover). Neither one really attacks it aggressively, although the paint remover probably is the more aggressive of the two. There are proprietary solvents made for the purpose; I don't know how well they work. Bakelite is pretty chemical-resistant, but I don't promise that a solvent won't turn it into a lump of putty. Personally, I hate superglue with a passion. It's never the best solution for anything, it seems to me, except for a quick job of glueing your fingers together and ripping off some skin. g -- Ed Huntress In general I agree with you on super glue, but I found one really good technique when using it for bonding broken porcelain that works better than any other. First assemble the pieces together with no glue and fixture with tape. Then apply Loctite 7452 accelerator on the crack. It is very fluid and seeps in readily. let it evaporate for a few seconds. Hold the pieces together tightly and apply a drop of super glue to the crack (use a less viscous type). Use about 1 small drop every inch or so. The activator practically sucks the glue into the crack. It sets in a few seconds and the joint is nearly invisible if it was a clean break. You might need to scrape off a little residue on the outside where you applied the drop. |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Help! removing completely superglue
On 9/13/2013 10:59 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:
...hmmm...or maybe not. What if you get your tube of Superglue mixed up with your tube of KY Jelly? ...ouch... Your vase will fall apart. |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Help! removing completely superglue
On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 22:48:06 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:18:41 -0700, wrote: I am trying to glue a red bakelite object. The break is fresh. So I put superglue on the break and everything was jake until I dropped the damn thing and it came apart and the glue set and there's **** stuck to the break. I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't seem to get it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need to soak the parts for hours? I need to remove all the glue so I can start over. You would think that after having years to get used to the nerve damage that causes me to drop things but nooooo, I still drop things and I know better. Crap. Eric The two easily available solvents for cyanoacrylate adhesives are acetone and methylene chloride (paint remover). Neither one really attacks it aggressively, although the paint remover probably is the more aggressive of the two. There are proprietary solvents made for the purpose; I don't know how well they work. Bakelite is pretty chemical-resistant, but I don't promise that a solvent won't turn it into a lump of putty. Personally, I hate superglue with a passion. It's never the best solution for anything, it seems to me, except for a quick job of glueing your fingers together and ripping off some skin. g It's pretty popular in model airplane circles. Or at least real CA is -- "Superglue" is crap for building models. It's not the best for gluing wood to wood, either, but when one of the woods is balsa or poplar it's more than adequate for most joints. People who race model airplanes swear by it as a quick way to hold sliced- up flesh together when you forget proper propeller etiquette in the heat of the moment. It's also good for quick repairs to model airplanes. If you get a break that lets you interdigitate the fibers of the break, applying CA to the break will hold everything together as good as new. -- Tim Wescott Control system and signal processing consulting www.wescottdesign.com |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Help! removing completely superglue
On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:18:41 -0700, etpm wrote:
I am trying to glue a red bakelite object. The break is fresh. So I put superglue on the break and everything was jake until I dropped the damn thing and it came apart and the glue set and there's **** stuck to the break. I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't seem to get it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need to soak the parts for hours? I need to remove all the glue so I can start over. You would think that after having years to get used to the nerve damage that causes me to drop things but nooooo, I still drop things and I know better. Crap. Eric My local hobby shop sells stuff called "super solvent". To my knowledge it's mostly nitromethane. To my knowledge, Bakelite isn't soluble in much -- if it's real Bakelite. To my knowledge, nothing really forms a good bond to Bakelite. Alas. -- Tim Wescott Control system and signal processing consulting www.wescottdesign.com |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Help! removing completely superglue
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#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Help! removing completely superglue
On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:18:41 -0700, wrote:
I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't seem to get it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need to soak the parts for hours? Acetone will dissolve CA glue, but it takes time. As others have mentioned, make sure your part does not get damaged by the acetone soak. I need to remove all the glue so I can start over. There are products made specifically for de-bonding CA: http://www.amazon.com/Un-cure-debond.../dp/B0000DD1QS In my experience, they leave a residue that makes it impossible to get the glue to stick to the same spot again. I use CA mostly on wood. Getting the residue cleaned off a hard surface might be possible. -- RoRo |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Help! removing completely superglue
On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 20:29:30 -0700, "anorton"
wrote: "Ed Huntress" wrote in message .. . On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:18:41 -0700, wrote: I am trying to glue a red bakelite object. The break is fresh. So I put superglue on the break and everything was jake until I dropped the damn thing and it came apart and the glue set and there's **** stuck to the break. I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't seem to get it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need to soak the parts for hours? I need to remove all the glue so I can start over. You would think that after having years to get used to the nerve damage that causes me to drop things but nooooo, I still drop things and I know better. Crap. Eric The two easily available solvents for cyanoacrylate adhesives are acetone and methylene chloride (paint remover). Neither one really attacks it aggressively, although the paint remover probably is the more aggressive of the two. There are proprietary solvents made for the purpose; I don't know how well they work. Bakelite is pretty chemical-resistant, but I don't promise that a solvent won't turn it into a lump of putty. Personally, I hate superglue with a passion. It's never the best solution for anything, it seems to me, except for a quick job of glueing your fingers together and ripping off some skin. g -- Ed Huntress In general I agree with you on super glue, but I found one really good technique when using it for bonding broken porcelain that works better than any other. First assemble the pieces together with no glue and fixture with tape. Then apply Loctite 7452 accelerator on the crack. It is very fluid and seeps in readily. let it evaporate for a few seconds. Hold the pieces together tightly and apply a drop of super glue to the crack (use a less viscous type). Use about 1 small drop every inch or so. The activator practically sucks the glue into the crack. It sets in a few seconds and the joint is nearly invisible if it was a clean break. You might need to scrape off a little residue on the outside where you applied the drop. That sounds like a good one. I'll have to find a place to store that idea... -- Ed Huntress |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Help! removing completely superglue
On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 23:55:33 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:
On 9/13/2013 10:59 PM, Ed Huntress wrote: ...hmmm...or maybe not. What if you get your tube of Superglue mixed up with your tube of KY Jelly? ...ouch... Your vase will fall apart. LOL! -- Ed Huntress |
#13
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Help! removing completely superglue
On 09/14/2013 04:10 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
That sounds like a good one. I'll have to find a place to store that idea... Forward it to yourself, then keep it in your archived messages. Jon |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Help! removing completely superglue
On Sat, 14 Sep 2013 08:07:54 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote: On 09/14/2013 04:10 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: That sounds like a good one. I'll have to find a place to store that idea... Forward it to yourself, then keep it in your archived messages. Jon 'Good thought, but then I forget what's in my archived messages. d8-) Organizing all the data coming in is now one of the most difficult jobs. -- Ed Huntress |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Help! removing completely superglue
On Sat, 14 Sep 2013 12:59:04 +0200, Robert Roland
wrote: On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:18:41 -0700, wrote: I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't seem to get it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need to soak the parts for hours? Acetone will dissolve CA glue, but it takes time. As others have mentioned, make sure your part does not get damaged by the acetone soak. I need to remove all the glue so I can start over. There are products made specifically for de-bonding CA: http://www.amazon.com/Un-cure-debond.../dp/B0000DD1QS In my experience, they leave a residue that makes it impossible to get the glue to stick to the same spot again. I use CA mostly on wood. Getting the residue cleaned off a hard surface might be possible. Cured CA is hard to remove. There are several "de-bonders" sold for CA. Not all are the same. Some are basically acetone, some methylene chloride as has been said already. I have tried both and cannot say that I am impressed by either. The fencing armourers tend to use CA to wire epees and foils. Much argument has been made as to how to remove the old wires. I personally use heat gun but those who deal with volume swear by acetone baths: They put several blades into a bath for as much as 24 hours. Whether your item would tolerate such treatment is a big question. As far as suitability of CA as an adhesive, I would say horses for courses. I possess no fewer than four industrial CAs. Each has its well defined purpose. Even in the narrow confines of re-wiring epee blades some blades take one type of CA better than another. I also possess no less than ten other types of glue, each with its specific indication. I have been known to use four different glues on a single piece. YMMV Michael Koblic, Campbell River, BC |
#16
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Help! removing completely superglue
On 9/14/2013 11:30 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
... Organizing all the data coming in is now one of the most difficult jobs. I agree and I think that a new methodology is taking over. At least it is for me. That methodology is to not keep stuff, but just look it up (e.g., Google it) when there is a need. I find that even when I've kept something, in an organized way, that I forget that I've done it and re-search for it when it's needed. Then, when faced with repairing china, I need to remember that that was an RCM thread about it, instead of remembering that I saved something about it. Bob |
#17
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Help! removing completely superglue
On Sun, 15 Sep 2013 16:50:54 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote: On 9/14/2013 11:30 AM, Ed Huntress wrote: ... Organizing all the data coming in is now one of the most difficult jobs. I agree and I think that a new methodology is taking over. At least it is for me. That methodology is to not keep stuff, but just look it up (e.g., Google it) when there is a need. I find that even when I've kept something, in an organized way, that I forget that I've done it and re-search for it when it's needed. Then, when faced with repairing china, I need to remember that that was an RCM thread about it, instead of remembering that I saved something about it. Bob That's more or less what I do, but I still have some packrat tendencies. I'm getting over them, though. What's been a real killer for me lately is taking on the job of editor of an online magazine. I'm easily getting 50 emails a day and they all mean something. First, I have to figure out what they mean. Then I have to make a note (in Notepad -- it really does have a use) and store it with my thoughts in case I change my mind. It's sure keeping me busy. -- Ed Huntress |
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