I am trying to glue a red bakelite object. The break is fresh. So I
put superglue on the break and everything was jake until I dropped the
damn thing and it came apart and the glue set and there's **** stuck
to the break. I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't
seem to get it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need
to soak the parts for hours? I need to remove all the glue so I can
start over. You would think that after having years to get used to the
nerve damage that causes me to drop things but nooooo, I still drop
things and I know better. Crap.
Eric

On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:18:41 -0700, wrote:

I am trying to glue a red bakelite object. The break is fresh. So I
put superglue on the break and everything was jake until I dropped the
damn thing and it came apart and the glue set and there's **** stuck
to the break. I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't
seem to get it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need
to soak the parts for hours? I need to remove all the glue so I can
start over. You would think that after having years to get used to the
nerve damage that causes me to drop things but nooooo, I still drop
things and I know better. Crap.
Eric

The two easily available solvents for cyanoacrylate adhesives are
acetone and methylene chloride (paint remover). Neither one really
attacks it aggressively, although the paint remover probably is the
more aggressive of the two.

There are proprietary solvents made for the purpose; I don't know how
well they work.

Bakelite is pretty chemical-resistant, but I don't promise that a
solvent won't turn it into a lump of putty.

Personally, I hate superglue with a passion. It's never the best
solution for anything, it seems to me, except for a quick job of
glueing your fingers together and ripping off some skin. g

--
Ed Huntress

On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:18:41 -0700, wrote:

I am trying to glue a red bakelite object. The break is fresh. So I
put superglue on the break and everything was jake until I dropped the
damn thing and it came apart and the glue set and there's **** stuck
to the break.

Ayieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! If that isn't a **** Happens moment, I hain't
heard of one. Condolences, Eric.



I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't
seem to get it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need
to soak the parts for hours? I need to remove all the glue so I can
start over.

I sure wouldn't want to soak a bakelite object in acetone for hours.
It might dissolve itself. Repetitive mechanical scrubbings with
sufficient dry times in between would be the way I'd try it.

Here's some info from the horse's mouth:
http://www.supergluecorp.com/removingsuperglue.html


You would think that after having years to get used to the
nerve damage that causes me to drop things but nooooo, I still drop
things and I know better. Crap.

Perhaps a workspace surrounded by nets or catch-towels?

--
Try not to become a man of success but
rather try to become a man of value.
--Albert Einstein

On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:53:19 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:18:41 -0700, wrote:

I am trying to glue a red bakelite object. The break is fresh. So I
put superglue on the break and everything was jake until I dropped the
damn thing and it came apart and the glue set and there's **** stuck
to the break.

Ayieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! If that isn't a **** Happens moment, I hain't
heard of one. Condolences, Eric.



I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't
seem to get it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need
to soak the parts for hours? I need to remove all the glue so I can
start over.

I sure wouldn't want to soak a bakelite object in acetone for hours.
It might dissolve itself. Repetitive mechanical scrubbings with
sufficient dry times in between would be the way I'd try it.

Here's some info from the horse's mouth:
http://www.supergluecorp.com/removingsuperglue.html

What a website! I LOVE this one from Superglue:

"In the event that eyelids are stuck together or bonded to the
eyeball, wash thoroughly with warm water and apply a gauze patch. The
eye will open without further action within 1-4 days. To our knowledge
there has never been a documented case of adhesive in the eye causing
permanent damage. Do not try to force eyes open."

Jesus! They've thought of glueing eyelids to eyeballs! That's really
covering it..

....hmmm...or maybe not. What if you get your tube of Superglue mixed
up with your tube of KY Jelly?

....ouch...

--
Ed Huntress




You would think that after having years to get used to the
nerve damage that causes me to drop things but nooooo, I still drop
things and I know better. Crap.

Perhaps a workspace surrounded by nets or catch-towels?

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:18:41 -0700, wrote:

I am trying to glue a red bakelite object. The break is fresh. So I
put superglue on the break and everything was jake until I dropped the
damn thing and it came apart and the glue set and there's **** stuck
to the break. I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't
seem to get it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need
to soak the parts for hours? I need to remove all the glue so I can
start over. You would think that after having years to get used to the
nerve damage that causes me to drop things but nooooo, I still drop
things and I know better. Crap.
Eric

The two easily available solvents for cyanoacrylate adhesives are
acetone and methylene chloride (paint remover). Neither one really
attacks it aggressively, although the paint remover probably is the
more aggressive of the two.

There are proprietary solvents made for the purpose; I don't know how
well they work.

Bakelite is pretty chemical-resistant, but I don't promise that a
solvent won't turn it into a lump of putty.

Personally, I hate superglue with a passion. It's never the best
solution for anything, it seems to me, except for a quick job of
glueing your fingers together and ripping off some skin. g

--
Ed Huntress

In general I agree with you on super glue, but I found one really good
technique when using it for bonding broken porcelain that works better than
any other. First assemble the pieces together with no glue and fixture with
tape. Then apply Loctite 7452 accelerator on the crack. It is very fluid and
seeps in readily. let it evaporate for a few seconds. Hold the pieces
together tightly and apply a drop of super glue to the crack (use a less
viscous type). Use about 1 small drop every inch or so. The activator
practically sucks the glue into the crack. It sets in a few seconds and the
joint is nearly invisible if it was a clean break. You might need to scrape
off a little residue on the outside where you applied the drop.

On 9/13/2013 10:59 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:

...hmmm...or maybe not. What if you get your tube of Superglue mixed
up with your tube of KY Jelly?

...ouch...


Your vase will fall apart.

On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 22:48:06 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote:

On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:18:41 -0700, wrote:

I am trying to glue a red bakelite object. The break is fresh. So I put
superglue on the break and everything was jake until I dropped the damn
thing and it came apart and the glue set and there's **** stuck to the
break. I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't seem to get
it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need to soak the
parts for hours? I need to remove all the glue so I can start over. You
would think that after having years to get used to the nerve damage that
causes me to drop things but nooooo, I still drop things and I know
better. Crap.
Eric

The two easily available solvents for cyanoacrylate adhesives are
acetone and methylene chloride (paint remover). Neither one really
attacks it aggressively, although the paint remover probably is the more
aggressive of the two.

There are proprietary solvents made for the purpose; I don't know how
well they work.

Bakelite is pretty chemical-resistant, but I don't promise that a
solvent won't turn it into a lump of putty.

Personally, I hate superglue with a passion. It's never the best
solution for anything, it seems to me, except for a quick job of glueing
your fingers together and ripping off some skin. g

It's pretty popular in model airplane circles. Or at least real CA is --
"Superglue" is crap for building models. It's not the best for gluing
wood to wood, either, but when one of the woods is balsa or poplar it's
more than adequate for most joints.

People who race model airplanes swear by it as a quick way to hold sliced-
up flesh together when you forget proper propeller etiquette in the heat
of the moment.

It's also good for quick repairs to model airplanes. If you get a break
that lets you interdigitate the fibers of the break, applying CA to the
break will hold everything together as good as new.

--
Tim Wescott
Control system and signal processing consulting
www.wescottdesign.com

On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:18:41 -0700, etpm wrote:

I am trying to glue a red bakelite object. The break is fresh. So I put
superglue on the break and everything was jake until I dropped the damn
thing and it came apart and the glue set and there's **** stuck to the
break. I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't seem to get
it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need to soak the
parts for hours? I need to remove all the glue so I can start over. You
would think that after having years to get used to the nerve damage that
causes me to drop things but nooooo, I still drop things and I know
better. Crap.
Eric

My local hobby shop sells stuff called "super solvent".

To my knowledge it's mostly nitromethane.

To my knowledge, Bakelite isn't soluble in much -- if it's real Bakelite.

To my knowledge, nothing really forms a good bond to Bakelite. Alas.

--
Tim Wescott
Control system and signal processing consulting
www.wescottdesign.com

In article ,
wrote:

I am trying to glue a red bakelite object. The break is fresh. So I
put superglue on the break and everything was jake until I dropped the
damn thing and it came apart and the glue set and there's **** stuck
to the break. I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't
seem to get it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need
to soak the parts for hours? I need to remove all the glue so I can
start over. You would think that after having years to get used to the
nerve damage that causes me to drop things but nooooo, I still drop
things and I know better. Crap.
Eric

Why don't you try posting this over in the sci.polymers newsgroup.

That group is mostly dead these days, but every now and again someone
will post a question and get some good responses and/or ideas.

Good Luck!

Erik

On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:18:41 -0700, wrote:

I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't
seem to get it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need
to soak the parts for hours?

Acetone will dissolve CA glue, but it takes time. As others have
mentioned, make sure your part does not get damaged by the acetone
soak.

I need to remove all the glue so I can
start over.

There are products made specifically for de-bonding CA:
http://www.amazon.com/Un-cure-debond.../dp/B0000DD1QS

In my experience, they leave a residue that makes it impossible to get
the glue to stick to the same spot again. I use CA mostly on wood.
Getting the residue cleaned off a hard surface might be possible.
--
RoRo

On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 20:29:30 -0700, "anorton"
wrote:


"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:18:41 -0700, wrote:

I am trying to glue a red bakelite object. The break is fresh. So I
put superglue on the break and everything was jake until I dropped the
damn thing and it came apart and the glue set and there's **** stuck
to the break. I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't
seem to get it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need
to soak the parts for hours? I need to remove all the glue so I can
start over. You would think that after having years to get used to the
nerve damage that causes me to drop things but nooooo, I still drop
things and I know better. Crap.
Eric

The two easily available solvents for cyanoacrylate adhesives are
acetone and methylene chloride (paint remover). Neither one really
attacks it aggressively, although the paint remover probably is the
more aggressive of the two.

There are proprietary solvents made for the purpose; I don't know how
well they work.

Bakelite is pretty chemical-resistant, but I don't promise that a
solvent won't turn it into a lump of putty.

Personally, I hate superglue with a passion. It's never the best
solution for anything, it seems to me, except for a quick job of
glueing your fingers together and ripping off some skin. g

--
Ed Huntress

In general I agree with you on super glue, but I found one really good
technique when using it for bonding broken porcelain that works better than
any other. First assemble the pieces together with no glue and fixture with
tape. Then apply Loctite 7452 accelerator on the crack. It is very fluid and
seeps in readily. let it evaporate for a few seconds. Hold the pieces
together tightly and apply a drop of super glue to the crack (use a less
viscous type). Use about 1 small drop every inch or so. The activator
practically sucks the glue into the crack. It sets in a few seconds and the
joint is nearly invisible if it was a clean break. You might need to scrape
off a little residue on the outside where you applied the drop.

That sounds like a good one. I'll have to find a place to store that
idea...

--
Ed Huntress

On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 23:55:33 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 9/13/2013 10:59 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:

...hmmm...or maybe not. What if you get your tube of Superglue mixed
up with your tube of KY Jelly?

...ouch...


Your vase will fall apart.


LOL!

--
Ed Huntress

On 09/14/2013 04:10 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:

That sounds like a good one. I'll have to find a place to store that
idea...

Forward it to yourself, then keep it in your archived messages.

Jon

On Sat, 14 Sep 2013 08:07:54 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 09/14/2013 04:10 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:

That sounds like a good one. I'll have to find a place to store that
idea...

Forward it to yourself, then keep it in your archived messages.

Jon

'Good thought, but then I forget what's in my archived messages. d8-)

Organizing all the data coming in is now one of the most difficult
jobs.

--
Ed Huntress

On Sat, 14 Sep 2013 12:59:04 +0200, Robert Roland
wrote:

On Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:18:41 -0700, wrote:

I tried acetone and while it softens the glue I can't
seem to get it to dissolve completely into the acetone. Do I just need
to soak the parts for hours?

Acetone will dissolve CA glue, but it takes time. As others have
mentioned, make sure your part does not get damaged by the acetone
soak.

I need to remove all the glue so I can
start over.

There are products made specifically for de-bonding CA:
http://www.amazon.com/Un-cure-debond.../dp/B0000DD1QS

In my experience, they leave a residue that makes it impossible to get
the glue to stick to the same spot again. I use CA mostly on wood.
Getting the residue cleaned off a hard surface might be possible.

Cured CA is hard to remove. There are several "de-bonders" sold for
CA. Not all are the same. Some are basically acetone, some methylene
chloride as has been said already. I have tried both and cannot say
that I am impressed by either.

The fencing armourers tend to use CA to wire epees and foils. Much
argument has been made as to how to remove the old wires. I personally
use heat gun but those who deal with volume swear by acetone baths:
They put several blades into a bath for as much as 24 hours. Whether
your item would tolerate such treatment is a big question.

As far as suitability of CA as an adhesive, I would say horses for
courses. I possess no fewer than four industrial CAs. Each has its
well defined purpose. Even in the narrow confines of re-wiring epee
blades some blades take one type of CA better than another. I also
possess no less than ten other types of glue, each with its specific
indication. I have been known to use four different glues on a single
piece.

YMMV

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On 9/14/2013 11:30 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
...
Organizing all the data coming in is now one of the most difficult
jobs.


I agree and I think that a new methodology is taking over. At least it
is for me. That methodology is to not keep stuff, but just look it up
(e.g., Google it) when there is a need. I find that even when I've kept
something, in an organized way, that I forget that I've done it and
re-search for it when it's needed.

Then, when faced with repairing china, I need to remember that that was
an RCM thread about it, instead of remembering that I saved something
about it.

Bob

On Sun, 15 Sep 2013 16:50:54 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

On 9/14/2013 11:30 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
...
Organizing all the data coming in is now one of the most difficult
jobs.


I agree and I think that a new methodology is taking over. At least it
is for me. That methodology is to not keep stuff, but just look it up
(e.g., Google it) when there is a need. I find that even when I've kept
something, in an organized way, that I forget that I've done it and
re-search for it when it's needed.

Then, when faced with repairing china, I need to remember that that was
an RCM thread about it, instead of remembering that I saved something
about it.

Bob

That's more or less what I do, but I still have some packrat
tendencies. I'm getting over them, though.

What's been a real killer for me lately is taking on the job of editor
of an online magazine. I'm easily getting 50 emails a day and they all
mean something. First, I have to figure out what they mean. Then I
have to make a note (in Notepad -- it really does have a use) and
store it with my thoughts in case I change my mind.

It's sure keeping me busy.

--
Ed Huntress