I have a 2n I use to bushhog a grass field. It has been runing fine for about 3 years. A few weeks ago I started having an intermittenant start problem. I replaced the points and condenser and now it will not start. The old coil was cracked I noticed so I put another coil on it I had. (I also tried a new coil which did not help either). I am pretty sure I put everythign together right, there is a picture in my manual I got from TSC. The gap is .015. (Slight drag with this feeler guage.) The problem is definitely no spark.



This is the front mount distributor with the square coil. I have contenuity with the top post of the coil and the curly spring on the bottom. I am getting 12 volts on the wire to the coil but noticed something. With the distributor on the engine, I have trouble getting any voltage when I check the top terminal of the coil. However, if I take the distributor off the engine, I get the 12 volts. I am assuming I am not getting the voltage when installed becasue the distributor is grounded to the engine. Does this sound right?

I took the distributor off and installed just the coil. I get continutity from the top post of the coil to anything including the points inside the distributor.(regardless if the points are open or closed). I get continuity from the top part of the cap where the other coil terminal rests to the rotor button on the cap. However, with the cap installed I do not get continuity touching that same spot where the other coil terminal rests on the cap to any of the spark plug outlets on the cap, even while spinning the distributor by hand. I assume this is ok becasue the rotor is not supposed to touch the actual cylinder terminals inside the cap.



After putting the new points and condenser on I jecked the static timing as is described in the manual with two rulers. (This is difficult to do by yourself). The best I could tell the tang on the bottom of the distributot is 1/4 inch away from the bolt hole as it should be.



My only guess is there is something drounded on the breaker plate that is not supposed to be or something??? I am not sure how to tell or what I need to look for.



As always I appreciate any help!

On Mon, 5 Aug 2013 05:05:37 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

I have a 2n I use to bushhog a grass field. It has been runing fine for about 3 years. A few weeks ago I started having an intermittenant start problem. I replaced the points and condenser and now it will not start. The old coil was cracked I noticed so I put another coil on it I had. (I also tried a new coil which did not help either). I am pretty sure I put everythign together right, there is a picture in my manual I got from TSC. The gap is .015. (Slight drag with this feeler guage.) The problem is definitely no spark.



This is the front mount distributor with the square coil. I have contenuity with the top post of the coil and the curly spring on the bottom. I am getting 12 volts on the wire to the coil but noticed something. With the distributor on the engine, I have trouble getting any voltage when I check the top terminal of the coil. However, if I take the distributor off the engine, I get the 12 volts. I am assuming I am not getting the voltage when installed becasue the distributor is grounded to the engine. Does this sound right?

I took the distributor off and installed just the coil. I get continutity from the top post of the coil to anything including the points inside the distributor.(regardless if the points are open or closed). I get continuity from the top part of the cap where the other coil terminal rests to the rotor button on the cap. However, with the cap installed I do not get continuity touching that same spot where the other coil terminal rests on the cap to any of the spark plug outlets on the cap, even while spinning the distributor by hand. I assume this is ok becasue the rotor is not supposed to touch the actual cylinder terminals inside the cap.



After putting the new points and condenser on I jecked the static timing as is described in the manual with two rulers. (This is difficult to do by yourself). The best I could tell the tang on the bottom of the distributot is 1/4 inch away from the bolt hole as it should be.



My only guess is there is something drounded on the breaker plate that is not supposed to be or something??? I am not sure how to tell or what I need to look for.



As always I appreciate any help!
Time to troubleshoot.
Disconnect the low tension wire from the distributor. Turn on the
ignition. diconnect the coil wire from the distributor.
Hold the coil wire 1/4" from ground and strike the low tension wire to
ground. Do you get a small spark at the low tension wire and a zap
from the coil wire when you break contact with the Low tension wire?
If so, the problem is with the points, condenser, or connections.

If not, you have a coil problem or a bad connection between the
distributor end of the low tension wire and the battery (ignition
switch, primary wiring, etc)

If you have spark, reconnect the low tension wire, making sure the
insulator on the terminal is correctly assembled and the points and
condenser are properly assembled so they are not permanently grounded.
Tken, with the points open, ground the moveable point with a jumper ot
screw driver and see if you get spark (and spark at the coil wire when
released). If you do, chances are oretty good the points are old and
need burnishing because the tungsten coating is oxidized.

Onother test is to connect a test light from the low tensinn connector
to ground with the ignition turned on. The light should light with the
points open, and go out with them closed. If the light does not go out
either bad points or bad ground. If it does not come on, either bad
condenser or the connections at the low tension terminal (point
connection on the distributor) assembled wrong.. Disconnect the
consenser. If the light goes on and off when the points are opened and
closed, the condenser is shorted.


This should pin down the problem.

Still got the old 6 volt positive ground system?

Bet you put in the wrong coil. Also, I'm pretty sure point gap is
0.020" but this will only effect timing for you, not the "no spark"
issue.

Everything has to be perfect for the 6 volt system. If haven't changed
to 12 volt neg ground, do it now. Ask if you need/want to do this.

Karl

In article ,
stryped wrote:

I have a 2n I use to bushhog a grass field. It has been runing fine for about
3 years. A few weeks ago I started having an intermittenant start problem. I
replaced the points and condenser and now it will not start. The old coil was
cracked I noticed so I put another coil on it I had. (I also tried a new coil
which did not help either). I am pretty sure I put everythign together right,
there is a picture in my manual I got from TSC. The gap is .015. (Slight drag
with this feeler guage.) The problem is definitely no spark.



This is the front mount distributor with the square coil. I have contenuity
with the top post of the coil and the curly spring on the bottom. I am
getting 12 volts on the wire to the coil but noticed something. With the
distributor on the engine, I have trouble getting any voltage when I check
the top terminal of the coil. However, if I take the distributor off the
engine, I get the 12 volts. I am assuming I am not getting the voltage when
installed becasue the distributor is grounded to the engine. Does this sound
right?

I took the distributor off and installed just the coil. I get continutity
from the top post of the coil to anything including the points inside the
distributor.(regardless if the points are open or closed). I get continuity
from the top part of the cap where the other coil terminal rests to the rotor
button on the cap. However, with the cap installed I do not get continuity
touching that same spot where the other coil terminal rests on the cap to any
of the spark plug outlets on the cap, even while spinning the distributor by
hand. I assume this is ok becasue the rotor is not supposed to touch the
actual cylinder terminals inside the cap.



After putting the new points and condenser on I jecked the static timing as
is described in the manual with two rulers. (This is difficult to do by
yourself). The best I could tell the tang on the bottom of the distributot is
1/4 inch away from the bolt hole as it should be.



My only guess is there is something drounded on the breaker plate that is not
supposed to be or something??? I am not sure how to tell or what I need to
look for.



As always I appreciate any help!

First, I wouldn't know a '2n tractor' even if someone pointed out one
riding by on a bicycle... and also had a little difficulty following
what you've done so far.

However, a quick thought... if it has a conventional distributor, check
the primary lead going to the points for continuity... and wiggle it in
the area where it normally flexes in operation while doing so.

Good luck!

Erik

First, I wouldn't know a '2n tractor' even if someone pointed out one
riding by on a bicycle... and also had a little difficulty following
what you've done so far.

A 2N is a small utility tractor made by Ford during the WW II years.
It has a fair collector value, especially if you can find the original
steel wheels. It features a four cylinder flat head engine rated at 23
hp PTO and 12 hp drawbar (but back then the horses were bigger - taken
at a low rpm and not fudged) It is nearly identical to the 9N produced
just before the war. After the war a very similar tractor, the 8N, was
produced in large volume.

I have an 8N and use it to run an air compressor hundreds of hours a
year. This is the most economical tractor I've ever owned. it runs the
compressor on a quart of fuel an hour. Don't understand why new
technology can't beat it. The key is 400 rpm idle and leaning out the
carb idle mixture.

Biggest weakness is the electrical system, 6V positive ground and poor
components. If this idiot is still trying to get the original system
running, he's screwed.

Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:

First, I wouldn't know a '2n tractor' even if someone pointed out one
riding by on a bicycle... and also had a little difficulty following
what you've done so far.

A 2N is a small utility tractor made by Ford during the WW II years.
It has a fair collector value, especially if you can find the original
steel wheels. It features a four cylinder flat head engine rated at 23
hp PTO and 12 hp drawbar (but back then the horses were bigger - taken
at a low rpm and not fudged) It is nearly identical to the 9N produced
just before the war. After the war a very similar tractor, the 8N, was
produced in large volume.

I have an 8N and use it to run an air compressor hundreds of hours a
year. This is the most economical tractor I've ever owned. it runs the
compressor on a quart of fuel an hour. Don't understand why new
technology can't beat it. The key is 400 rpm idle and leaning out the
carb idle mixture.

Biggest weakness is the electrical system, 6V positive ground and poor
components. If this idiot is still trying to get the original system
running, he's screwed.

Karl

Not sure if it's on a 2N, but the "Marvel" carb used on the later
tractors is a bit of a pain as well.

On Monday, August 5, 2013 7:05:37 AM UTC-5, stryped wrote:
I have a 2n I use to bushhog a grass field. It has been runing fine for about 3 years. A few weeks ago I started having an intermittenant start problem. I replaced the points and condenser and now it will not start. The old coil was cracked I noticed so I put another coil on it I had. (I also tried a new coil which did not help either). I am pretty sure I put everythign together right, there is a picture in my manual I got from TSC. The gap is ..015. (Slight drag with this feeler guage.) The problem is definitely no spark.

This is converted to 12 volts. I fixed it last night. The condenser terminal was touching the base of the distributor, shorting everythign out. I moved the terminal a little and all is ok.

Someone said these 2ns are worth something if they have origional wheels? How do you tell?





This is the front mount distributor with the square coil. I have contenuity with the top post of the coil and the curly spring on the bottom. I am getting 12 volts on the wire to the coil but noticed something. With the distributor on the engine, I have trouble getting any voltage when I check the top terminal of the coil. However, if I take the distributor off the engine, I get the 12 volts. I am assuming I am not getting the voltage when installed becasue the distributor is grounded to the engine. Does this sound right?



I took the distributor off and installed just the coil. I get continutity from the top post of the coil to anything including the points inside the distributor.(regardless if the points are open or closed). I get continuity from the top part of the cap where the other coil terminal rests to the rotor button on the cap. However, with the cap installed I do not get continuity touching that same spot where the other coil terminal rests on the cap to any of the spark plug outlets on the cap, even while spinning the distributor by hand. I assume this is ok becasue the rotor is not supposed to touch the actual cylinder terminals inside the cap.







After putting the new points and condenser on I jecked the static timing as is described in the manual with two rulers. (This is difficult to do by yourself). The best I could tell the tang on the bottom of the distributot is 1/4 inch away from the bolt hole as it should be.







My only guess is there is something drounded on the breaker plate that is not supposed to be or something??? I am not sure how to tell or what I need to look for.







As always I appreciate any help!

On Tue, 6 Aug 2013 07:03:42 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On Monday, August 5, 2013 7:05:37 AM UTC-5, stryped wrote:
I have a 2n I use to bushhog a grass field. It has been runing fine for about 3 years. A few weeks ago I started having an intermittenant start problem. I replaced the points and condenser and now it will not start. The old coil was cracked I noticed so I put another coil on it I had. (I also tried a new coil which did not help either). I am pretty sure I put everythign together right, there is a picture in my manual I got from TSC. The gap is .015. (Slight drag with this feeler guage.) The problem is definitely no spark.

This is converted to 12 volts. I fixed it last night. The condenser terminal was touching the base of the distributor, shorting everythign out. I moved the terminal a little and all is ok.

Someone said these 2ns are worth something if they have origional wheels? How do you tell?

Try http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/at...es/fordval.htm
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Tue, 6 Aug 2013 07:03:42 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On Monday, August 5, 2013 7:05:37 AM UTC-5, stryped wrote:
I have a 2n I use to bushhog a grass field. It has been runing fine for about 3 years. A few weeks ago I started having an intermittenant start problem. I replaced the points and condenser and now it will not start. The old coil was cracked I noticed so I put another coil on it I had. (I also tried a new coil which did not help either). I am pretty sure I put everythign together right, there is a picture in my manual I got from TSC. The gap is .015. (Slight drag with this feeler guage.) The problem is definitely no spark.

This is converted to 12 volts. I fixed it last night. The condenser terminal was touching the base of the distributor, shorting everythign out. I moved the terminal a little and all is ok.

Someone said these 2ns are worth something if they have origional wheels? How do you tell?





This is the front mount distributor with the square coil. I have contenuity with the top post of the coil and the curly spring on the bottom. I am getting 12 volts on the wire to the coil but noticed something. With the distributor on the engine, I have trouble getting any voltage when I check the top terminal of the coil. However, if I take the distributor off the engine, I get the 12 volts. I am assuming I am not getting the voltage when installed becasue the distributor is grounded to the engine. Does this sound right?



I took the distributor off and installed just the coil. I get continutity from the top post of the coil to anything including the points inside the distributor.(regardless if the points are open or closed). I get continuity from the top part of the cap where the other coil terminal rests to the rotor button on the cap. However, with the cap installed I do not get continuity touching that same spot where the other coil terminal rests on the cap to any of the spark plug outlets on the cap, even while spinning the distributor by hand. I assume this is ok becasue the rotor is not supposed to touch the actual cylinder terminals inside the cap.







After putting the new points and condenser on I jecked the static timing as is described in the manual with two rulers. (This is difficult to do by yourself). The best I could tell the tang on the bottom of the distributot is 1/4 inch away from the bolt hole as it should be.







My only guess is there is something drounded on the breaker plate that is not supposed to be or something??? I am not sure how to tell or what I need to look for.







As always I appreciate any help!
The "original" 2n wheels referred to were 6 stud all steel wheels
with no rubber tires - just cleats. The 2N was manufactured with both
steel and rubber tires.

see http://www.tractordata.com/photos/F0...b01-ext315.jpg.

The steel wheels were not very common to start with, and most were
updated to rubber after the war. The rim for the rubber tire replaced
the steel rim directly with no modifications.