On Tue, 6 Aug 2013 07:03:42 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On Monday, August 5, 2013 7:05:37 AM UTC-5, stryped wrote:
I have a 2n I use to bushhog a grass field. It has been runing fine for about 3 years. A few weeks ago I started having an intermittenant start problem. I replaced the points and condenser and now it will not start. The old coil was cracked I noticed so I put another coil on it I had. (I also tried a new coil which did not help either). I am pretty sure I put everythign together right, there is a picture in my manual I got from TSC. The gap is .015. (Slight drag with this feeler guage.) The problem is definitely no spark.

This is converted to 12 volts. I fixed it last night. The condenser terminal was touching the base of the distributor, shorting everythign out. I moved the terminal a little and all is ok.

Someone said these 2ns are worth something if they have origional wheels? How do you tell?





This is the front mount distributor with the square coil. I have contenuity with the top post of the coil and the curly spring on the bottom. I am getting 12 volts on the wire to the coil but noticed something. With the distributor on the engine, I have trouble getting any voltage when I check the top terminal of the coil. However, if I take the distributor off the engine, I get the 12 volts. I am assuming I am not getting the voltage when installed becasue the distributor is grounded to the engine. Does this sound right?



I took the distributor off and installed just the coil. I get continutity from the top post of the coil to anything including the points inside the distributor.(regardless if the points are open or closed). I get continuity from the top part of the cap where the other coil terminal rests to the rotor button on the cap. However, with the cap installed I do not get continuity touching that same spot where the other coil terminal rests on the cap to any of the spark plug outlets on the cap, even while spinning the distributor by hand. I assume this is ok becasue the rotor is not supposed to touch the actual cylinder terminals inside the cap.







After putting the new points and condenser on I jecked the static timing as is described in the manual with two rulers. (This is difficult to do by yourself). The best I could tell the tang on the bottom of the distributot is 1/4 inch away from the bolt hole as it should be.







My only guess is there is something drounded on the breaker plate that is not supposed to be or something??? I am not sure how to tell or what I need to look for.







As always I appreciate any help!
The "original" 2n wheels referred to were 6 stud all steel wheels
with no rubber tires - just cleats. The 2N was manufactured with both
steel and rubber tires.

see http://www.tractordata.com/photos/F0...b01-ext315.jpg.

The steel wheels were not very common to start with, and most were
updated to rubber after the war. The rim for the rubber tire replaced
the steel rim directly with no modifications.